Proven Berry Plants / * i KNOTT’S BERRY PLACE / / Trees and Vines 
it up to the inside posts. The end posts 
should either be braced or the wire 
should be tied close to the ground on 
them and then raised up to the desired 
height on the inside posts. Old railroad 
ties, if available, cost very little and if 
sawed in two will make two very good 
end posts. We use number fourteen gal¬ 
vanized wire for everything except rasp¬ 
berries and number sixteen for raspber¬ 
ries. In estimating how much wire you 
will need, No. 14 goes about fifty feet 
to the pound and five thousand feet to 
the hundred-pound roll. No. 16 about 
seventy feet to the pound or seven thou¬ 
sand feet to the roll. If the wire is 
stretched tight and the end posts are 
solid the inside posts may be spaced 25 
feet apart and need not be larger than 
two by two redwood. Some use one 
wire above the other, while others use 
crossarms. Each system has its advan¬ 
tages. We make the top wire from three 
and one-half to four and one-half feet 
high for blackberries. Loganberries and 
Youngberries, the exact height depend¬ 
ing on how heavy the vines are at the 
time we put them up. For raspberries 
we use very short crossarms that space 
the wires about one foot apart and let 
the canes grow up between these wires. 
For St. Regis usually one pair of wires 
about two and one-half feet high is 
enough. On good land Cuthberts will 
require another pair twelve or fifteen 
inches higher. 
SPRAYING — (Por the Commercal 
Grower) —In the past berries have re¬ 
quired very little spraying in California. 
During the past few years a microscopic 
mite known as the blister mite is be¬ 
coming bad in many sections of this 
state. This mite enters the blossoms of 
all the later sorts of blackberries and 
cause sections of the berry to remain 
red after the balance of the berry is 
ripe. In all sections where this condition 
has appeared all varieties of blackber¬ 
ries, except the Advance and possibly 
the dewberries, should be sprayed. The 
Advance and the dewberries blossom 
very early and, so far as we know, have 
never been attacked by the blister mite. 
For this trouble spray in the spring, 
just when the leaf buds are starting to 
open with lime-sulphur, one to ten. That 
is, one gallon of commercial liquid lime- 
sulphur to ten gallons of water, or if 
you use the dry lime sulphur, use four¬ 
teen pounds to one hundred gallons of 
water. Now the above is dormant 
strength and will burn if used after the 
plants are leafed out, but should be used 
just when the leaf buds are starting to 
open and none of the leaves are more 
than one-half inch long. A thorough job 
of spraying at this time will get almost 
perfect control. In bad cases, or, to get 
absolute control, a second spraying 
should be given when the berries are 
about half through blossoming. This 
second spraying consists of five pounds 
of soluable, or wetable sulphur to one 
hundred gallons of water. For Hima¬ 
laya blackberries which blossom over a 
very long period, two or three sprayings 
during the blossoming time are advis¬ 
able. 
Even if your bush or vine berries 
have never been attacked by the red- 
berry mite, so that you do not feel it 
necessary to spray with lime-sulphur at 
the end of the dormant season for this 
trouble, still we believe a spraying with 
the lime-sulphur at this time will be 
very cheap insurance. Even if you were 
going to have no redberry trouble, which 
you cannot tell at spraying time, the 
good that the lime-sulphur spray would 
do in helping to control rose scale, thrips, 
and fungus diseases, would well warrant 
the small cost. This applies to all varie¬ 
ties of bush and vine berries, including 
Youngberries, Bovsen berries, dewber¬ 
ries, raspberries, Loganberries, and all 
varieties of blackberries except Moun¬ 
tain and Advance blackberries, which are 
evergreen. 
To control the white scale (rose 
scale), which gets on the canes near the 
ground and sometimes becomes quite 
bad, spray during the dormant season 
with one of the refined lubricating oil 
sprays, such as Solite Spray or Volck. 
Use at the rate of iy 2 gallons to 100 
gallons of water and keep it well mixed. 
The Solite spray stays mixed much bet¬ 
ter than some of the other oil sprays, 
and gives fine results so we use Solite. 
Even if the rose scale is hardly bad 
enough to justify an oil spray during 
the dormant season, still it may pay to 
spray, for while you are killing the scale 
you may clean up enough thrips to pre¬ 
vent trouble later in the season. 
Should thrips or red spider show up 
any time during the season spray at 
once with Solite using one gallon to one 
hundred gallons of water. Or if you pre¬ 
fer you can use Black Leaf 40 and 
Whale oil soap up until fruiting time. 
In this case use one pint Black Leaf 40 
and 3 pounds of Whale oil soap to one 
hundred gallons of water. 
If strawberry fields are attacked by 
aphis dust at once with nicotine dust. 
Should red spider appear spray with Sol¬ 
ite, or other good light oil spray, using 
one to iy 2 gallons to 100 gallons of wa¬ 
ter. This oil spray will also Mil aphis if 
both aphis and red spider should come 
This 4 Acres of Youngberries Produced a $4000.00 Crop 
the Next Year After Planting 
22 
