Proven Berry Plants r r KNOTT’S BERRY PLACE / < Trees ancl Vines 
at the same time. The important part 
and the hard part with strawberries is 
to put the spray on with enough force 
to whip the leaves around so that the 
spray reaches the under side of all of 
the leaves. 
Sprays for the Home Garden —For 
redberry which prevents blackberries 
from ripening uniformly. If only a small 
planting is to be sprayed get one quart 
of liquid lime-sulphur from your feed 
store and mix it with two and one-half 
gallons of water or get half pound of 
dry powdered lime-sulphur and mix it 
with three gallons of water. This can 
be applied with any kind of a small 
sprayer. The important part is to com¬ 
pletely wet the vines or bushes all over 
and to apply it at just the right time, 
which is just when the leaf buds (not 
blossom buds) are commencing to open. 
If you have been very seriously both¬ 
ered the past season by your berries not 
ripening, give them a second spraying, 
consisting of one-quarter pound of solu¬ 
ble sulphur to five gallons of water 
when in full blossom. 
For white scale (rose scale) near the 
base of the canes, use one-half pint of 
good oil spray, Solite, Volck, or several 
others, to 3 gallons of water. Apply this 
in the winter while the vines are dor¬ 
mant. 
If strawberries should be attacked by 
aphis (small green plant lice), dust well 
with Nico Dust. If strawberries are at¬ 
tacked by red spider (an exceedingly 
small red or yellow mite on the under 
side of leaves) spray thoroughly with 
one of the light oil sprays. We have 
found nothing as good as solite for this. 
The hard part and the important part is 
to get force enough to whip the leaves 
around so that the spray thoroughly 
covers the underside of all of the leaves. 
Sometimes one or two spoons full of 
sulphur scattered close around the plants 
on a hot day will create fumes enough 
to kill the spiders. 
If any other conditions should arise 
which require spraying, we would sug¬ 
gest that you write for the bulletins 
listed below on this page and also take 
the matter up with your local horticul¬ 
tural commissioner. If at any time we 
can be of any help we will be glad to 
do so. 
Brief Instructions for Growing 
Asparagus 
Plant in a deep furrow one foot apart, 
making the rows six feet apart. When 
the plants have been set in this deep 
furrow cover only about two inches deep 
and then as they grow work more dirt 
to them until the furrow is finally filled 
up. This is to get the crowns down 
deep so that they will not be injured by 
cutting. No asparagus should be cut the 
first season. In the fall when the tops 
turn yellow cut them off to the ground 
and manure heavily. The next spring the 
bed may be cut for a while, but must 
be allowed to fern (grow tall tops') each 
summer and fall in order that the plants 
may recuperate and be ready for cut¬ 
ting the following spring. 
Your asparagus row or bed pr field 
should be dusted several times during 
the first growing season to prevent rust. 
Tt is, best to do this dusting of a morn¬ 
ing while there is dew on the asparagus. 
During each late summer and fall after 
the cutting season is over and while the 
tops are growing up big, they should be 
dusted with sulphur. It is much better 
if you will do this dusting as a preven¬ 
tive before the rust attacks the aspara¬ 
gus than to wait until the rust has al¬ 
ready gotten a hold to start dusting. 
Helps for Berry Growers 
During the course of a season we re¬ 
ceive a very great many letters asking 
information concerning berry growing, 
and while we are always glad to answer 
these questions as best we can, some¬ 
times it would take many pages to an¬ 
swer completely. It is impossible, in as 
small a book as our little catalog, to 
give very complete directions for plant¬ 
ing, irrigating, pruning, and caring for 
all the different varieties of berries. The 
University of California at Berkeley, 
and also the Department of Agriculture 
at Washington, issue a number of circu¬ 
lars and bulletins on growing the differ¬ 
ent varieties of berries which will be 
mailed to you absolutely free if you will 
ask for them. These give a great deal 
of detailed information which is illus¬ 
trated with pictures, making them very 
interesting reading for berry growers. 
You can send to University of California, College of Agriculture, Berkeley, 
Calif., for Circular No. 164 on Small Fruit Culture in California. 
Circular No. 25 Bush Fruit Culture in California. 
Circular No. 154 on Irrigation Practice in Growing Small Fruits in California. 
Circular No. 265 on Plant Disease and Pest Control. 
Bulletin No. 399 on the Blackberry Mite—the cause of redberry disease. 
Circular No. 23 on Strawberry Culture in California. 
By writing the Department of Agri¬ 
culture, Washington, D. C., you can get 
the following bulletins: 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 643, Blackberry 
Culture. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 728, Dewberry 
Culture. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 887, Raspberry 
Culture. 
Farmers’ Bulletin ..o. 998, Culture of 
the Loganberry. 
Farmers’ Bulletin 
berry Diseases. 
No. 
1458, 
Straw 
Farmers’ Bulletin 
berry Culture. 
No. 
1027, 
Straw 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1043, Straw¬ 
berry Varieties. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1398, Currants 
and Gooseberries. This last one will ex¬ 
plain why we do not grow currants and 
gooseberries commercially in Southern 
California. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1488, Diseases 
of Raspberries and Blackberries. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1399, Blackberry 
Growing. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1403, Dewberry 
Growing. 
Circular No. 220, The Brainard Black¬ 
berry. 
23 
