October 2, 1886. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
71 
crocks, on these place a thin layer of decayed leaves, 
unbroken up, to prevent the soil from getting in 
amongst the crocks ; next fill the pots to within about 
2 ins. of the top with compost, put in a little sand, and 
on this place the end of the tap-root, and fill up the 
pot to the brim ; strike it smartly two or three times 
on the potting bench, and then remove the plant to 
its summer quarters, which should be under the north 
side of a hedge or wall. The plants should be elevated 
about 2 ft. above the ground, and there they may be 
safely left until November, when they may be placed 
in the frame or house, giving them all the air possible. 
Water must be gradually withheld, so that during 
December and January the soil is just kept from being 
absolutely dry. If it be kept wet or too moist, the 
plants will be in great danger of contracting disease and 
suffering from frost. About the end of February and 
during March they must have all the air possible and 
more water ; they must also be top-dressed with two 
parts of rotten manure and one part of loam, having 
previously removed the old soil to the depth of an inch. 
From the beginning of April, when they have pushed 
up their flower stems,, they will require to be kept in a 
moist state at the roots until the end of the blooming 
season. 
Insects and Diseases. 
The roots of the Auricula—and especially the tap¬ 
root—are often attacked by rot or canker. When this 
takes place, the foliage changes colour, and the plant 
droops and quickly perishes. The disease appears to be 
the result of deficient drainage, an excessive supply of 
moisture, want of air, and too rich soil. On the first 
indication of the disease, the plants should be turned 
out, the decayed parts be cut away, and the roots 
exposed to the air until the wounds are dry, when the 
plants should be re-potted in fresh but rather poor 
soil.— J. S. Stocks. 
-- 
Hardening ||otes from 
Scotland. 
Methods of Cultivation. —I have recently read 
some timely remarks on the systems adopted by fruit 
and vegetable growers, who as readily state their dis¬ 
agreements as their agreements with the methods of 
others. We know it is by no means uncommon to see 
success of the highest order attend the efforts of some 
whose systems may appear to be diametrically opposed 
to those of their neighbours ; but if all the details were 
minutely described, and the circumstances under which 
opponents in theory followed their practice, it might be 
seen in the end that, when all was fairly balanced, 
there would be something like six of one and half-a- 
dozen of the other. Some time ago I hinted to a very 
clever grower that he might do quite as well—perhaps 
better—by growing his Pino Apples in pots of reduced 
size, compared with the tub-like sizes in which he grew 
his plants. He could not be persuaded, even by 
reference to the success of some distinguished growers 
who fruit their plants in 12-in. (or about that size) 
pots ; our friend has tried both methods, but preferred 
the large size. The potting stuff in both cases being 
put in loose, of course gave no chance to the more 
economical method of moderate potting, which may be 
practised most successfully by potting firmly, thus 
saving means and labour. Pine-growing is almost 
becoming nil, and judging from what is often seen at 
exhibitions, the knowledge of what fine fruit really is, 
would lead one to suppose is also becoming extinct 
among certain growers The past season has been 
notable for bad Pine exhibitions, especially in collec¬ 
tions of fruit. 
I notice, also, that Grape growers are often found 
with opinions very adverse to those of successful neigh¬ 
bours, some putting much value in certain kinds of 
manure (there are kinds really valuable because of 
their purity and life-giving power, when skilfully 
applied to plants and fruits), systems of watering, 
peculiar methods of pruning, airing and so forth, 
when the same practice followed in other parts under 
different circumstances would give very opposite results; 
and were we to give notes on observation on what I 
now adduce (say over a period of twenty years in 
various parts of the kingdom), some very peculiar 
statements would be given. In passing, let me refer to 
one instance. 
A friend who was a most successful exhibitor of fruits, 
put much dependence on his method of surface-dressing 
his Vine borders. Care of superfluous moisture not 
reaching the roots, certain substances applied during 
the season to feed the roots, and pruning to the “best 
bud” nearly completed the secrets of success; but 
after these prize-taking Vines had done credit to 
their manager for about twenty years, he removed to 
something more suitable to his taste. His successor 
had to make extensive alterations and renovating, and 
while removing the borders which the pet Vines had 
been supposed to derive so much benefit from, it was 
found that the roots had never reached them at all, 
but found their way into the huge foundations of the 
structures ; while the mass of soil so frequently 
receiving enriching and careful manipulation, remained 
all these years in its unwasted condition, and unworthy 
of the excellence to which it was believed to have 
helped the Grapes to attain. 
Turning to vegetable - growing, I observe lately 
that writers are disagreeing about methods of growing 
Celery. Some are dead against the system of earthing 
up piecemeal, preferring to do the work all at once. It 
is stated, that by “piecemeal earthing,” water is 
excluded from the roots, and the crop bolts to seed. 
I have adhered to the once or twice earthing, in a 
great measure, for many years, and though generally 
highly pleased with our Celery crop, good substantial 
produce being had in abundance from August to June, 
I should be sorry to denounce the system of our 
fathers, aye, of my grandfather, who was fifty-two 
years in one place, and his success as a Celery grower 
would astonish many who are satisfied with the result 
of their practice at the present time. It matters not as 
to whether the ridges are made for one, two, or four 
rows ; we generally follow this good old practice of four 
rows in a ridge for mid-season supplies, say from October 
to April, or whether the ridges are a foot deep, or the 
Celery planted on the surface, and no ridges being formed, 
but a thick coating of manure dug down and ■well- 
trodden ; the Celery planted like Lettuce, Cabbage, &c. 
But watering has something to do with success, but not 
always by deluging frequently (only the surface in some 
cases) the plants with cold well-water, or from the cool 
spring, which often causes the “bolting” which one 
wishes to avoid. 
I believe in treating Celery liberally from the 
beginning, never checking the growth by drought, 
cold drenchings too frequently applied, curtailing the 
roots, or cramping in any form. When planting is 
done, all that the roots can carry with them of the 
manure (on the surface of which they have been pricked 
out) should be taken to the ridges. When the soil is 
nicely put round the plants, and all made right, a good 
mulching of manure (rotten stuff is the best), leaf-soil, 
or grass if nothing better can be had ; then a thorough 
soaking of pond or tank-water which has been well ex¬ 
posed to the air. This will keep the plants in good 
healthy growing order for a week or two on the driest 
of positions ; then another thorough soaking may be 
administered ; over this (covering the firm mulching 
entirely) may bo placed some well-broken soil, which 
will keep the roots (which are then active in the 
mulching and manure below) in healthy condition, and 
exclude drought. In the driest positions and hottest 
seasons we never had to give more than three such 
waterings, and whether we practise “one earthing” 
or “ six earthings ” the Celery is much the same, except 
that the frequent earthing system blanches most com¬ 
pletely, while the Celery flavour is retained in the one- 
earthed lot to a greater extent. Incomparable and 
Major Clarke’s are A 1.— M. T. 
- — -- 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
Those valuable plants, the Lapagerias, both rosea 
and alba, are now in their most pleasing form ; and 
although we have numerous beautiful plants in tho 
greenhouse at tho present time, none are so much ad¬ 
mired as these. Their drooping festoons of flowers are 
very graceful; the blooms themselves have such a fine, 
wax-like, substantial appearance, and they last for such 
a long time, that it is not at all surprising they gain 
favour with many people. For a long period it was 
thought that these plants were difficult to grow, and 
the idea has not quite died out now ; yet, with attention 
to a few matters, anyone can ensure success with them. 
A mistake that is too frequently made is placing the 
plants in an exposed part of the house, where they get 
the full force of the sun, and when this is done failure 
may be expected ; for though the plants may live for 
a time and even flower, they will not make satisfactory 
progress, and will probably become weaker and thinner 
every season. A slightly shaded position—or, at least, 
one where they will not be exposed to the sun at mid¬ 
day—is necessary ; and then, if the soil is right, good 
turfy peat and charcoal, with care in keeping the plants 
clear of their chief insect enemy, the mealy-bug, Lapa¬ 
gerias may be easily had in their most luxuriant 
condition. No pruning should be attempted ; train 
up all the growths produced, and if at any time they 
become too thick, remove some of the old ones, as these 
usually produce smaller flowers than those two or three 
years old. 
Begonias of the Ascotensis type are flowering well 
now. B. fuchsioides we have trained to the roof and 
pillars ; the old Cassia corymbosa renders the house gay 
with its multitudes of golden flowers ; another old 
favourite, Rhodochiton volubile, has its long pendulous 
shoots clothed with floivers ; Plumbago capensis is a 
mass of its delicate blue or lilac flowers ; Bouvardias, 
Zonal Pelargoniums, Scabious in pots, Impatiens 
Sultani, and Amaryllis Belladonna, are all contributing 
to the floral attractions of the house ; the last-named 
is a great favourite with us, and we have a good 
number in pots every year, as though without their 
foliage they have a somewhat bare appearance alone, 
yet arranged with small Ferns they are charming, their 
soft pink-veined flowers being very beautiful. Vallota 
purpurea is another useful plant for the greenhouse at 
this time of the year, and should be grown in quantity. 
It will be seen from this that we have no lack of 
flowers, and by means of liberal ventilation in fine 
weather we hope to maintain its beauty for a consider¬ 
able time—in fact, until our earliest forced bulbs, such 
as Roman Hyacinths, can be employed for the same 
house. 
If, owing to the want of adequate space in frames or 
elsewhere, bedding plants have to be placed in the 
greenhouse, it will be advisable to have them arranged 
on frames near the glass, and where they will not 
interfere with the other plants ; otherwise assign one 
portion of the house to them, as it is not well to mix 
them with the others, for it is then very difficult to 
keep the house in a satisfactory condition.— Scolytils. 
-- 
CUT FLOWERS. 
Forty years ago, in New York, in constructing a 
simple hand bouquet, some of us did not know enough 
to use a thread to keep each flower in its place as the 
construction went on, and it was some years later that 
the centre stick was used to steady the structure. The 
wire design man did not put in an appearance until 
nearly twenty years later, and when a cross or wreath 
of flowers had to be made, tho cross was usually con¬ 
structed with pieces of lath, on which the flowers were 
tied, and the floral wreath had the groundwork of a 
piece of old barrel hoop or a "Willow twig. The bouquet 
was usually a one-sided affair, the groundwork being a 
flat bunch of Arbor vitae, through which the flowers 
were drawn. Occasionally a round bouquet w'as 
attempted by shine artist of local fame, but with a 
result that must have done violence to the feelings of 
the poor flowers that were used in the structure. 
The character of the flowers used for cut-flower 
purposes has also been radically changed. Forty years 
ago Camellia flowers were freely retailed at one dollar 
each, and Philadelphia used to send thousands to New 
York florists at the holidays, getting 500 dollars per 
1,000 ; while Roses were then going a-begging at one- 
tenth of that sum. Now the Rose is queen indeed, and 
the poor Camellia finds none so poor as to do her 
homage. The culture of Tuberoses came a little later. 
I find, from an old schedule of prices, that in 1865 
Tuberoses were quoted in November at eight dollars 
per hundred, and a reference to my own books shows 
that in that year my receipts from a house (10 ft. by 
100 ft.) of Tuberoses were 1,500 dollars in November ; 
now they are rarely sold at all in New York, unless to 
the poorest class—Dame Fashion has stamped them 
out, as she, twenty years before, stamped out Camellia 
flowers ; and just here comes the question : May there 
not be danger of a rebound in the Rose “boom”? 
May there not be danger ahead in placing so many eggs 
in one basket, fascinating though the basket be ?—• 
Peter Henderson, in the Ladies' Floral Cabinet. 
