October 9, 1886. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
93 
actually required for use is allowed to grow. The 
batch for succession are now ready for potting off into 
60’s, and to start them they will be plunged in the bed 
with the others, and so receive the same treatment. 
The house we are painting, so as to have in readiness, 
as a check of any kind' should be carefully guarded 
against. 
Where pot Vines are used for the earliest supply of 
Grapes attention must now be given. The house where 
they are to fruit must be carefully prepared and 
cleansed, so as to ensure a good start, which means 
success as a rule. If fermenting material is used to 
supply the bottom heat a store must be kept in reserve. 
This, in our opinion, is far preferable to bottom-heating 
by pipes. In any case, take every precaution to secure 
a thorough drainage, as without an abundant water 
supply good Grapes cannot be looked for. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
AVe took advantage of the storms to plant out our 
new plantation of Strawberries, and to ensure their 
starting quickly, gave all a good soaking of water. 
Cabbage plants, too, were similarly treated, so that we 
hope few will go blind. The August sowing is making 
a good growth, and will shortly need pricking out ; 
also Cauliflower and Lettuce. We are busy now with 
the gathering in of Apples and the lifting of late Potatos ; 
I regret to say the disease has destroyed a great part of 
the crop, which would otherwise have been very heavy. 
AVe have gathered and stored Ribston’s and Margil, 
and also the greater part of the Blenheims ; the fine 
weather we have lately experienced has greatly assisted 
in colouring up the fruit, and although a quantity are 
grub-eaten, our crop is above the average. 
In Pears, Marechal de la Cour, Fondante d’Automne, 
Marie Louise, and Hacon’s Incomparable are ready for 
storing ; great care is necessary in the handling, that 
is if anything like a clean dessert is expected, and 
nothing looks worse than bruised fruit. The stems of 
the Jerusalem Artichoke may now be headed down half 
way ; this will tend to the swelling of the tubers, 
added to which they are not so liable to be broken off 
by storms. Keep the hoe well at work amongst crops, 
and keep all as neat as possible, more particularly in 
the shrubberies and woodland walks. Clipping should 
be completed, and all odd work cleared up, so as to pre¬ 
pare for turfing, levelling, &c, which may shortly be 
commenced.— Walter Child, Croome Court. 
-- 
FLORICULTURE. 
Carnations and Picotees. —Now is the time 
to see about potting up the layers of Carnations and 
Picotees for the winter. I observe that Mr. E. S. 
Dodwell states in a circular, offering certain of his new 
varieties of Carnations and Picotees, that the untoward 
season has so diminished the usual growth, that his 
surplus stock of plants is not quite half the average. 
I do not know whether this is a general experience, 
but when I was at the Royal Nurseries, Slough, a few 
days ago, I thought the layers looked remarkably well 
and the average good ; but one cannot always draw a 
correct conclusion from a temporary glance. Said Mr. 
Dodwell, in a recent communication to a friend who 
had applied to him for information as to the best time 
for potting for the winter:—“If I could have 4,000 
plants potted up in one day, I should choose Oct. 20th 
for the operation ; but that not being possible, we work 
from the beginning to the end of the month, or even 
into the first ten days of November.” Here there is an 
authoritive declaration as to the best time for potting 
off layers. It is in October that, as Mr. Dodwell 
states :—-AVe have come now to foundation work, and 
on its well or ill-doing will mainly rest success or 
failure for another year. Every plant of every variety 
proposed to be grown for next season’s bloom should be 
obtained, if required to be obtained, and firmly estab¬ 
lished in its winter quarters during this month ; one 
plant properly established now, will give results worth 
ten got in in mid-winter or spring. 
But before potting can be proceeded with, a suitable 
compost must be prepared. The one used by Mr. 
Dodwell is of a very simple character, for he observed 
in his book on The Carnation and Picotee :—“The soil 
required is a good sweet sandy loam, with the addition 
of a fifth or sixth part of sweet leaf-mould, and such 
well-washed sand or pounded crocks as may be needed 
to ensure a free percolation of air and water. This may 
be prepared at once ” (he is advising this to be done 
in September), “ and should be kept dry.” Mr. Dodwell 
is opposed to what he terms “premature potting,” 
and necessary as it is to have the plants established for 
the winter, yet, in his experience, “grievous evil” 
has always followed the practice. Not earlier than 
from the 20th to the 30 th of the month of October 
should this be done. “ All that is required is that the 
plan ts shall freely feel the sides of the pots with their 
roots, so as to ensure perfect drainage and sweetened 
soil before going off for their winter sleep ; but on no 
account should they become pot-bound, or the very 
worst evils may be expected to result. Various-sized 
pots should be used, according to the strength of the 
plants. Overpotting is a great evil. AVhen potted, 
place in a cold frame and keep close for some days, 
shading from the bright sun. AVater sparingly. Badly 
rooting varieties will be greatly aided with a gentle 
bottom heat when this can be given and properly 
watched. Pot every rare variety singly in 3-inch pots; 
all will be the better for such a practice.” I add one 
line of advice to that of Mr. Dodwell’s : pot firmly, for 
I have known the plants suffer from this necessary work 
being too loosely done. 
AVhen the layers are taken from the pots for potting, 
“carefully clean them from dead or decaying foliage, 
dust, dirt, or insects. There is nothing like a weak solu¬ 
tion of soft soap ; plunge the plant overhead in it, and 
remove the fly with a brush dipped in it, and keep the 
frames close for a week after potting. AVater sparingly, 
aud only if needed to prevent the plants from flagging. 
Should water be required, air must be given until the 
foliage is dry, keeping the plants effectually sheltered 
from strong winds ; when fairly started, give air 
abundantly day and night, guarding carefully from 
the saturating rains usual at this period.— R. I). 
-->33<—- 
ORCHID RO TES AND GLEANINGS. 
The Orchid-G-rowers’ Calendar. — It will 
be as well now to mention that the growing season of 
Phalsenopsis generally is drawing to a close ; indeed, an 
inspection of the plants will show that in most cases 
the leaves are fully made up and none others appearing 
in the heart. There is no doubt that these plants 
are not generally well done in collections, some of our 
largest growers getting but indifferent success with 
them. The cause, in the majority of cases, is to be found 
in their being kept too hot and too close from October to 
March, when they require to be kept as inactive as pos¬ 
sible (the same may also be said of the greater part of the 
East India Aerides, Saccolabiums, and Vandas). I would, 
therefore, w'ish to call the attention of amateurs 
to the fact that the coolest and shadiest part of 
the East Indian house when kept strictly down to 
the temperatures we prescribe for October, viz., 
70° to 75° by day and 65° at night, is ample for 
Phalsenopsis, and if the situation selected ranges 
5° less than that given so much the better ; or they 
may be put on the shady side of the intermediate house, 
care being taken to specially protect them from the sun. 
It is, however, a common thing to find these plants 
kept at over 85° in winter, and in a close atmosphere 
where the temperature ranges as high at night as it 
does in the day. This last circumstance is the most 
destructive of all, and, therefore, strict attention should 
be paid to regulate the temperatures by a reliable 
thermometer, and not depend on guess work. If kept 
too hot and ill ventilated in winter the Phaleenopsis 
are enfeebled, and in place of pushing strong leaves 
and roots in spring, prematurely dwindle into a weak 
and sappy growth, which becomes spotted, even if it 
does not decay in the heart of the plant before coming 
to maturity. Full cultural notes, with list of species 
and illustration, were given in The Gardening 
AVorld, vol. I., p. 245.— James O'Brien. 
Trepho for Orchids. —Oncidium Jonesianum 
has done remarkably well with me on this material. 
The first I had were on pieces of tree Fern stem, but we 
could not keep them moist enough, so I tried others on 
“ Trepho,” from Mr. B. Field, Swan Place, Old Kent 
Road. They have rooted well into and through it, as 
they are on rafts with a slice of “ Trepho ” under them. 
Oncidium varicosum has also done very well on it, and 
several other things, but I shall not venture to use it 
for Cattleyas, &c., without further experience.— C. B. 
P., Tunbridge Wells. 
Seedling Orchids. —On the underside of one of 
the stages in our Cattleya house may be seen a curious 
sight. Some Orchids have grown from seed ; they 
appear to be Galeandras, and if so, they must be from 
some seed pods of plants imported last March. 
The growths are 9 ins. long, and in the most luxuriant 
health, and seem to like the heat from the pipes which 
are immediately under them. Some more seedlings are 
springing up among other plants in the house, and 
appear to be the same species. The plants are growing 
downward and outward towards the light, and rooting 
along the wood-work above them ; they appear strong 
enough to flower. I have never seen or heard of any 
Orchid from seed growing with such rapidity, and the 
place is one in which growers would naturally suppose 
the Orchids would inevitably die in a few weeks. The 
parent plants I collected on the dry stems of a Morichia 
Palm, which is always found growing in swampy places, 
but I suppose the foliage of the Palm would prevent 
much moisture reaching the Orchid. But how they can 
grow under a stage and over pipes is a mystery to me. 
—Edward A. Wallace, Colchester. 
Orchids in Flower at the Woodlands.— 
The following Orchids are now in flower in this collec¬ 
tion : — 
Aerides Lawrencse 
,, Rohanianum 
,, suavissimum 
Cattleya Acklandiie 
,, Eldorado splendens 
,, Gaskelliana 
,, Loddigesii 
,, speciosissimaErnestii 
Ceelogyne speciosa 
Cynoclies Egertonianum 
Cymbidium giganteum 
Cypripedium Ashburtoniaj 
,, barbatum 
,, „ nigrum 
,, Harrisianum 
,, Lawrenceanum 
,. cenantlium 
,, ,, superbum 
,, Regnerii concolor 
,, Roezlii 
,, Schlimii 
,, Sedenii 
,, selligerum 
,, Spicerianum, (several 
with two flowers 
on spike) 
,, ,, magnificum 
,, Stoneii 
Dendrobium bigibbum 
,, Dearei 
,, formosum gigan teum 
,, Goldiei 
Laelia amanda 
,, Dayana 
,, elegans 
,, Pilcherii 
Lycaste Deppei 
,, plana 
,, ,, alba 
,, Skinneri 
„ „ alba 
,, ., miniata 
Masdevallia amabilis ’ 
,, bella 
— R. C. Fraser, Gardener t 
Masdevallia chimaera 
(several varieties) 
,, Harry ana 
,, Lindeni 
,, maculata 
,, Peristoria 
,, trochilus 
Miltonia Clowesii 
,, Regnellii purpurea 
Odontoglossum Bictonense 
alba 
,, blandum 
,, crispum (in variety) 
„ grande _ 
,, Insleayi splendens 
,, mirandum 
,, mulus 
,, odoratum 
,, Pescatorei 
,, Roezlii 
,, ,, album 
„ Rossii majus 
,, Ruckerianum 
Oncidium Gardnerianum 
,, Jonesianum (flower¬ 
ing since June) 
,, Krameri 
,, O’Briani 
,, ornithorrhynchum 
,, papilio 
,, tigrinum 
,, varicosum 
Pescatorea cerina 
Phalasnopsis amabilis 
Sophronitis cernua 
,, coccinea 
,, grandiflora 
Trichopilia marginata 
Vanda ccerulea 
,, lamellata Boxallii 
,, suavis 
,, tricolor insignis 
Zygopetalum intermedium 
,, maxillare. 
■ R. H. Measures, Esq. 
>X<- 
HORTICUL TURAL S OCIETIES. 
CRYSTAL PALACE SHOAY. 
In some districts the complaints have been numerous 
that the Apple and Pear crops were as poor as the Plum 
crop was heavy, but in other places, though rather 
below the average, these fruits have been satisfactory 7 '. 
Those who have visited the Crystal Palace show of 
hardy fruits, which was opened on AYednesday and 
closes this Saturday evening, would scarcely think there 
was any falling off this season, either in the number or 
quality of the Apples, although the Pears are not nearly 
so good ; in fact, there are specimens of Apples in the 
show that could seldom be surpassed. Such large fruit¬ 
ing varieties as AVarner’s King, Peasgood’s Nonsuch, 
Emperor Alexander, Gloria Mundi, Ecklinville and 
Lord Suffield are in capital form ; fruits of the first 
named in some instances, notably in Messrs. Bunyard’s 
collection, -weighing from 14 ozs. to 17 ozs. each. The 
brightly coloured varieties, like AVorcester Pearmain, 
Duchess’s Favourite and Colonel Vaughan are in their 
best form ; the majority of the fruits staged through¬ 
out the classes being notable for their clean appearance 
free from the specks that sometimes disfigure them. 
