October 23, 1886. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
119 
A beautiful addition may be made to many of our 
gardens by devoting a shady dell, or positions overhung 
■with trees, to the interesting group of hardy Ferns. I 
know many of the choice British varieties are rather 
hard to establish ; still, if care is exercised, a capital 
bank of many British and hardy exotic Ferns may bo 
made, which will always be found full of interest : 
associated with Sedums, Saxifragas, hardy Orchids, 
&c., this bank may be made one of the prettiest parts 
of the garden. Many of the choice forms of Athyrium, 
Lastrrea, Seolopendrium, Asplenium and Cystopteris 
may be grown in pots in cold frames, where they will 
be protected from the early frosts, which are so apt to 
injure the first batch of tender fronds ; and when these 
are once seared and brown, it takes a good part of the 
season ere the disfigurement is hidden. 
Be sure and bear this fact in mind, that hardy Ferns 
in pots must not be allowed to get dry during the 
winter; in the open air during this period they 
naturally get more water than at any season; if, then, 
they are permitted to become dry for any length of 
time, the fronds will be small and almost certain to be 
deformed. Many Ferns may be grown in our towns, 
and in a smoky atmosphere, such as we often find 
ourselves wrapped in in Preston ; to counteract such 
drawbacks a little more care is needed, and if this 
is given, many nice cases of Ferns may be grown and 
will continue fresh for a long time. Choose hard 
growers, such as Pteris, Polystiehum Blechnum, 
Lomaria, Asplenium, &c. ; give good drainage to the 
case ; plant in soil similar to but rather finer than that 
mentioned for the large Fernery, and work some pieces 
of rock amongst them, and in many cases healthy and 
stout growths will result; wipe the inside glass two or 
three times a week, and occasionally give a little air 
when the day is bright and clear. 
I have left little space to deal with drying Ferns, 
and yet this is an operation that all young men should 
engage in who seek to become proficient in their pro¬ 
fession. The way to learn Ferns is by often examining 
them, and the drying process is one of the best helps 
in this direction ; but to the young men I would say, 
do not be too anxious to secure fronds until you have 
permission from the gardener in charge, or, what is 
better, ask for them, and in most cases, I think, you 
will get what you require. In proceeding to dry the 
fronds, get two smooth pieces of board—say, 2 ft. 
square ; place one on a bench or table, or on the floor, 
then spread a sheet of blotting-paper on it; on this 
spread out the fronds. When covered so that the 
fronds do not overlap one another, put another piece of 
blotting-paper, then more fronds, and again the paper 
until three or four laj r ers of fronds are spread out; then 
put a stout piece of brown paper over the whole, place 
the other board upon it, and on this put some heavy 
weights, seeing that the pressure is equally distributed. 
In the course of a few days, examine the fronds, dry 
the blotting-paper, and replace them as before. After 
being in the press ten days or a fortnight, they will be 
fit to be taken out and placed in a book, or mounted 
on sheets. When permanently fixing them to the 
paper, place the frond so that the arrangement of the 
seed-spores can be distinctly seen. — IF. Swan. 
-—- 
Hardening ffoTEs from 
- §C0TLAND. 
Vegetable Protecting.— Asparagus is known 
to be one of the hardiest of plants in its wild state, 
but. often under cultivation it succumbs to severe 
weather; not so much from frost, as damp being 
harboured in the ground—absence of drainage and 
close tenacious water-holding soil is conducive to 
rotting of the roots. When ripening is defective (as 
we fear is very general this season in the northern 
parts), much loss is generally sustained ; the finer the 
roots, and the more luxuriant the tops, the more likely is 
the death-rate to be high. We notice that most things 
are extra strong for the time of year ; no doubt the dull 
close moist weather has to do with this, and means to 
mature or check growth will have to be taken, so that 
vegetation may be prepared to resist a severe winter. 
Asparagus is often covered over during winter with 
rank manure, holding wet, and when the crowns should 
start, into growth many vacancies are observed. We 
would prefer to protect the crowns in damp positions 
with dry soil, sand, or such material as old Mushroom- 
bed manure, and put it on ridge form to throw the water 
from the centres of the rows, keeping the crowns dry, if 
possible. Cutting down close to the ground while 
growth is unfinished is an evil to be guarded against ; 
better to wait till the tops become yellow, and leave 
the stems (stubble-like) 1 ft. or more high. It is easy 
to enrich the laud in March by rich surfacing just 
before growth begins. 
Broccoli which is expected to come in during the 
autumn and early winter should be looked over 
frequently, cutting those ready for use. The autumn 
Cauliflowers are very abundant just now, and easily 
injured ; they may be lifted in quantity, and placed in 
frames, orchard houses, or other structures. Late 
Broccoli may be heeled over facing the north, the soil 
made firm over the stems, leaving the leaves clear 
above ground. Broccoli is successfully protected by 
some by the use of Ferns packed among the stems, also 
withered grass or dry litter used in the same manner. 
All the Brassica family may be helped in this way when 
in positions requiring it, but the retention of damp in 
the brakes has as much to do with killing these vege¬ 
tables as any other cause — hence the necessity of 
draining. 
Carrots are preferred by many fresh from the soil, 
and are therefore left in the ground as late as circum¬ 
stances will allow. In November and December, on 
the Carrot farms, lifting and protecting takes place. In 
gardens the same rule holds good ; but roots may be 
left in the ground covered with fine ashes, old tan, or 
leaf-mould, and dug up as they are required. Much 
mischief is often done in sheds and cellars by packing 
the roots in damp earth or wet sand ; also forming 
great masses of roots fresh out of the ground, causing 
heat and decay. Lift the roots dry, put them safe 
from frost and damp, and throw some dry straw over 
them, or pit them in the same manner as Potatos ; a 
few hours exposure to dry air is advantageous to their 
keeping. 
Beetroots are treated in the same way. We prefer 
covering them in the ground, and then the flavour—so 
desirable in Beet—is retained late in the season. Beet 
is growing late this year, and care in late districts must 
be taken not to lift the crops and harvest the roots in 
a damp state. Breaking them must be avoided, other¬ 
wise they lose the juice and become tough. The juice 
saving is carried to such an extent, that some cooks 
boil them enclosed in a paste. 
Chicory, Sals'afy and Parsnips always keep best 
in the ground, lifting a portion as the demand necessi¬ 
tates ; and to be ready when frost may set in suddenly, 
a few dozen roots may have litter or some other material 
placed over them, so that a supply may be had at any 
time. In some parts we have seen Parsnips dug up and 
placed on a border to be exposed to frost or whatever 
weather may come ; but we do not know the propriety 
of this practice—would someone tell us ? 
Potatos are always an important crop, and we do 
not know a better method of preserving the tubers 
than by “ pitting ” them. We know the success of the 
large growers in these parts, who pit them, and open 
the covering towards spring, turn over the tubers, 
rubbing off any growths, and discarding whatever may 
have become useless. Potatos placed in a cool cellar 
or outhouse, from which air and light are excluded, 
keep well, and are always accessible when required for 
use. Choice kinds for seed may be laid out thinly on 
dry shelves and kept airy. 
Turnips are kept easily, as one would Potatos ; but 
if the roots are not too large, and to be kept through 
the winter, they can have soil drawn over them, leaving 
the tops above ground. Small Turnips for drawing 
young may have fine ashes, Fern or other litter 
placed over them. Rhubarb and Sea Kale roots for 
forcing may have soil drawn over the crowns, to throw 
off wet and keep them ready in frosty weather for 
lifting ; the leaves should be allowed to die naturally 
on the plants, but removed as soon as they are useless. 
It is time now to set about root-forcing ; but well- 
ripened crowns are indispensable to success. So are 
Asparagus roots only fit for forcing when they are 
ripened properly. Amateurs are sometimes puzzled 
when a variety of systems are advocated by professional 
men, who sometimes “disagree” as to the best methods 
of obtaining their requirements ; but circumstances 
often prompt one to pursue varied courses. "\Ve scarcely 
ever adopted the same system in each place ; seasons, 
means and necessity often are made to decide our 
plans, and the most simple methods often are attended 
with the greatest success.— M. T. 
North of Scotland Horticultural Asso¬ 
ciation. —The monthly meeting of the North of 
Scotland Horticultural Association was held on the 
evening of Friday, the 16th inst., in the hall of the 
Christian Institute, Aberdeen. There was a good 
attendance of members, and Mr. A. Hobson, president 
of the society, occupied the chair. Two papers were 
submitted to tbe meeting, the first read being that 
by Mr. D. M. Smith, Argyle Place, Aberdeen, on 
“Chemical Manures.” Mr. Smith’s paper excited 
much interest, and considerable discussion followed, at 
the close of which the writer was warmly thanked. 
Mr. J. Morrison, gardener, Waterton House, Aberdeen¬ 
shire, read the next paper, the subject of which was 
“Bulbous and Tuberous-rooted Stove and Greenhouse 
Plants.” The paper, which "was most interesting, was 
very favorably received, and its author cordially thanked 
for his contribution. The usual vote of thanks to the 
president, for his conduct in the chair, ended a very 
enjoyable evening. 
-—- 
The Amateurs’ Garden, 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
The recent storms have brought down the majority 
of the leaves from the Limes and other trees which lose 
theirfoliage early, and we have thusbeen able to clearup, 
and render the garden comparatively neat. Attention 
is now being given to the borders of herbaceous plants, 
and wherever any of these need dividing and trans¬ 
planting, the time is a very suitable one, as frequently 
in the spring there are so many duties of importance to 
be seen to, that this is not done so well as it should be. 
If only a partial re-planting is required, the best way is 
to lift the clumps to be divided, forking the ground over 
with a top-dressing of leaves and old manure ; then 
divide those that need it, and re-place them in the 
border. 
Sometimes, however, such beds may have been 
neglected for several years, and in that case a thorough 
re-arrangement becomes necessary. . Should the latter 
be decided upon, select dry weather for the operation ; 
lift all the plants, or if the border is a long one, do a 
portion at a time, well digging the soil, and re-plant, 
having regard to the general effect. If the heights 
and colours of the various plants have been carefully 
observed during the year, it will be easy to arrange 
them so that they will have a pleasing appearance, 
placing the tallest at the back, as dwarf plants are 
deprived of half their beauty when partly hidden 
ajnongst coarse-growing subjects. 
Those •welcome successors to the Rose, the Chry¬ 
santhemums, are now rapidly advancing; indeed, our 
borders have been gay for some time with the early- 
flowering varieties, such as the yellow Precocite, the 
purplish Lyon, the white Madame Desgrange and La 
Yierge, with others. Beautiful and acceptable as these 
are, we always seem to look with greater interest for 
the true November Chrysanthemums, and if the weather 
proves favourable we shall have a fine display. Those 
in pots are already under cover, and the earlier Japanese 
are furnishing quite a charming floral show. Like 
most of our neighbours’, the blooms seem rather later 
than usual, and the incurved give us some concern, for 
they are, in many cases, very hard and unfavourable 
in appearance. These varieties are prized for their 
symmetry, but it is upon the Japanese that we prin¬ 
cipally rely, and these have never yet disappointed us. 
The very early, dwarf and free Alexandre Dufour is 
in first-rate condition, compact little specimens being 
covered with flowers ; but our greatest favourite at 
present is the white Pompon Mrs. Cullingford, from 
which we cut baskets of bloom that are greatly appre¬ 
ciated in the bouse for vases and general decoration. 
In some cases it may not have been convenient to 
grow the plants in pots throughout the season, as they 
require a great deal of attention, and if neglected they 
are extremely disappointing. If it is now wished to 
bring some into flower under glass earlier than they 
would be obtained out-of-doors, it can be easily done 
by lifting the plants carefully, placing them in pots, 
watering them liberally, and standing them in a shady 
part of the greenhouse. With ordinary care they will 
lose very few leaves, and their flowers will open more 
quickly, coming purer in colour and lasting better than 
they would do outside, especially if the weather prove 
severe. It is a suitable time to encourage Chrysan¬ 
themums with either manurial top-dressings or appli¬ 
cations of liquid manure.— Scolytus. 
