120 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
October, 23, 1886. 
PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS. 
"When to plant trees and shrubs is a matter of some 
importance in view of success in reference to their 
culture, and this is the time of year when planting 
demands attention. Are we not on the very threshold 
of that season described by the poet 1— 
“ Brown autumn quiet with ripe fruits, 
And haggards stocked with harvest gold, 
And fiery flushes for the leaves, 
And silent cloud skies soft outrolled.’’ 
The trees are rapidly shedding their leaves from the 
ripened wood, and the period of the year when they 
can be transplanted with safety has come. Trans¬ 
planting may be performed at any time from October 
to April, according to the character of the season. It 
is difficult to lay down any general rule, but roughly 
it may be stated that autumn is the best time for 
conifers and evergreens, and spring for such deciduous 
plants as do not expand their leaves too early. But 
the universal canon to be observed is to plant as much 
as possible during wet or cloudy weather, and to refrain 
in sunshine, drought or frost. Such intervals of forced 
inaction can be profitably employed in settling the spot 
where each tree is to be placed, in digging the holes 
and in providing the compost to be put round the roots 
when the planting is performed. 
The sooner after the receipt of the trees from the 
nursery they are finally planted the better, but if there 
must be some delay in planting them, it is better to keep 
them in a dark shed, that is also cool, in wet moss, hay 
or matting placed over the roots. When this is done, 
and a long spell of frosty weather ensues, the roots of the 
unplanted trees must be carefully preserved against three 
things of a hurtful character—viz., frost, drought and 
light; warm sunshine falling upon the roots of unplanted 
trees is to them as poison. It is much better to lay by 
the trees in this way than “laying them in by the 
heels,” to adopt a nursery phrase, which is often done 
hurriedly and temporarily, and the trees get more harm 
than they do good. 
In moving trees of any size, it is advantageous to 
place them, when replanted, in the same position, with 
respect to the cardinal points, as they occupied before 
being moved. In. other words, it is best that the same 
side of the trees should face the west (for instance) as 
faced the west before removal. To the unreflecting this 
might appear matter for ridicule ; but we are assured 
by planters of great experience that it is a matter of 
great moment, and one that, as far as possible, they 
observe in their practice. 
Before proceeding in a subsequent passage to give 
some directions as to how and what to plant, w T e may 
offer, in the way of caution, a few remarks bearing 
upon whar not to do. Do not plant near the house aqy 
trees that will ultimately attain large dimensions, or 
the day will come when you or your successors will have 
to choose between cutting down handsome and favourite 
old specimens, or suffering from the gloom and moisture 
generated by their too close proximity to the dwelling. 
Very many instances of this kind can be observed in 
any suburb of London, and many a fine old mansion 
has been thus overshadowed, and the inmates have had 
to elect between unhealthy damp and shade on the one 
hand, and the uprooting of a favourite or venerable 
tree on the other ; and the planter should equally avoid 
planting tall-growing trees where, when they attain 
maturity, they will interfere with a fine prospect, or 
intercept the view of any beautiful object. When first 
planted, their ultimate magnitude is overlooked ; but 
the planter must have an eye to the future. 
In planting masses of trees, not only size and shape, 
but also the colour of the foliage must be an element 
in determining the selection of the species or varieties 
of it, to be planted. The lively green leaves of 
deciduous trees in spring, and even their graceful spray 
in winter, wonderfully relieve the sombre foliage of 
Conifers and other evergreen trees. An admixture, too, 
of those species of which the leaves change colour, and 
assume bright tints in autumn, afford delightful 
glimpses and lively effects amongst other trees. For 
instance, the Birch and Tulip tree, true yellow ; the 
Cryptomeria elegans, dark bronze ; and the red Oak 
displays large masses of bright scarlet. These, and 
others producing similar effects, should be freely in¬ 
terspersed among ornamental plantations. Trees with 
variegated leaves, or with pendulous branches, also 
afford striking contrasts of colour and form, but they 
should be introduced discreetly, as when too abundant, 
they lose their charm, and rather pall upon the sight. 
Do not encourage Ivy or other creepers to grow on 
trees which you wish to keep healthy and long-lived ; 
these parasites do best, and look best, on decaying 
objects, whether trees or ruins, to which they add 
grace and cause no injury. 
Lastly, all the choice trees and shrubs should be 
labelled, or at least one of each species. Even if their 
names be familiar to the owner, they may be new to 
many a visitor, to whom it will generally prove 
interesting to know the names, and, if possible, the 
native habitat of the plant also. The leading principle 
with the planter should be to plant for beauty and 
effect; he should also plant for instruction ; a well- 
planted garden thus gains another feature of interest. 
-- 
THE TREE CARNATION. 
Few, if any, of our cultivated plants are more sought 
%fter by all classes than the Carnation, but it is chiefly 
during the autumn, winter and spring months that 
they are most valued. Though we find them most 
useful and highly appreciated at all seasons, it is during 
the period above named that their fragrant blooms are 
doubly welcome for cutting ; and arranged with a few 
sprays of their own growth in small glasses for the 
sitting-room, or made up as button-holes, they cannot 
fail to find favour in the best company. A good 
healthy start is the first step essential to success, and 
in Carnation culture especially so ; to work up good 
plants from a sickly stock is waste of time and labour, 
so make sure of healthy plants or cuttings to commence 
with, of good dependable varieties. We put in our 
fresh batch of cuttings early in February, by placing 
five cuttings in a 3-in. pot, in a compost of loam, leaf- 
mould and sand, pressed moderately firm—being fine- 
rooted subjects ; in fact, firm potting must be strictly 
adhered to all through their career, using thorough 
drainage and perfectly clean pots ; place nearly \ in. in 
depth of clean sand on the surface of the soil, and settle 
all down by watering through a fine rose. The dibbing 
in of the cuttings may be proceeded with, making them 
quite firm and taking care not to hang them ; that is, 
place the base ol each cutting at the bottom of the hole 
made by the dibber, and again sprinkling them to level 
the surface. 
Various methods have been tried to obtain a success¬ 
ful strike ; the easiest, quickest and best for the well¬ 
being of the plants we have tried, is to fill a sunken 
pit, that is about 3 ft. deep, with flow and return pipe 
in it, up to within 10 ins. of the glass, with good fer¬ 
menting material, on the top of that 6 ins. of cocoa- 
nut fibre or saw T -dust, in which the cutting-pots should 
be plunged, kept shut perfectly close, with an occasional 
sprinkling overhead and shaded from bright sunshine ; 
a good strike may then be relied on. By the time the 
cuttings are well rooted the bottom-heat will gradually 
decline, so that the young plants can be well hardened 
in the same structure. By the middle of April they 
will be ready for potting off singly in the same sized 
pots as used for the cuttings, using the same kind of 
compost as before described, and returning them to cold 
frames, where they can be kept close for a few days, 
after which they should receive abundance of air night 
and day on all favourable occasions. When about 6 ins. 
high, nip out the points to encourage a bushy habit. 
In June they will be ready for their final shift ; 
the earliest and successional batches a month later ; 
6-in. or 7-in. pots will be found quite large enough for 
good plants, using good fibrous loam of a sandy nature 
if possible, with an addition of well-decomposed 
manure and coarse sand, a few 1-in. bones next the 
drainage, and a little sprinkle of soot, both of which 
will be found valuable assistants to the plants later 
on ; the latter will keep them free from worms. Pot 
quite firm, and be very careful to avoid breaking the 
fine tender roots. When all has been potted, and a 
strong neat stake placed to each, a good open spot 
must be selected for their summer quarters, where they 
can be plunged in ashes up to the rim of the pots, 
standing them quite level, and giving them sufficient 
space to admit the full sun for the thorough develop¬ 
ment and maturing of their growths. The next three 
months of their treatment will be an occasional tying, 
and the liberal, though judicious, use of the water-pot; 
either too little or too much tells a sad tale among 
Carnations. As soon as the pots are filled with roots, 
at intervals of a few days some stimulant in the shape 
of liquid manure would be found most beneficial to 
encourage strong healthy growth and vigorous consti¬ 
tution—so necessary to enable them to perform their 
proper functions during the short and dull days of 
winter. 
Towards the end of September, before the plunging 
material becomes too cold, or saturated with the 
autumn rains, it is best to lift the pots, carefully tying 
each growth so as not to crowd them, and make all in 
readiness to place them under cover before frosty nights 
are upon us. On no account should Carnations be 
associated with any other plants, but should have a 
very light airy house or span-pit'to themselves, and 
as near the glass as possible, with flow and return hot- 
water pipes at command, which will be required more 
for the necessity of dispelling damp than for the 
amount of heat required, for without a clear healthy 
atmosphere the blooms will be spoilt by damp ere 
they have fully expanded. We are particular to admit 
air at all times when possible, even if we have to use 
more fire-heat to keep the necessary temperature, rang¬ 
ing from 45° to 50° by night, and 55° to 60° by day, 
according to the outside elements. 
In many places we see them planted out in well- 
prepared borders during the summer months, and 
when strength of labour is a foremost consideration, 
there is much to recommend the practice, more especially 
where late spring flowers is the point in view ; but for 
late autumn and early spring blooming pot culture is 
far the best, as in lifting the plants in September and 
potting them, the first and generally the best blooms 
are quite lost, or severely crippled in the operation ; 
besides a more “grassy” growth, often indifferently 
ripened, is consequently of a less floriferous character. 
In spring, when sufficient cuttings have been taken for 
the next season's stock, and the old plants have to be 
placed outside to make room for other pressing subjects, 
do not, as often is the case, consign them to the rubbish 
heap, but take them from their pots, remove the drain¬ 
age, and loosen the outside roots carefull 3 r with a 
pointed stick ; replant firmly in good soil in any vacant 
place available—against walls, or any such-like places 
having a south, south-east, or south-west aspect, 
spreading out and tying up the leading shoots. It is 
astonishing the quantities of flowers they will produce 
with the only attention of an occasional good soaking 
in dry weather, which will be found most useful before 
the young plants commence blooming in autumn, 
besides having plenty of stock to propagate from all 
the summer if necessary. 
The varieties we find most useful for the above 
purposes are Alegatiere, Miss Joliffe, Seraph, Anda¬ 
lusia, White Swan, Empress of Germiny, Dauntless, 
Sir C. Wood, Covent Garden Scarlet, Annie Williams 
and a white seedling.— J. F ., Dorset. 
-- 
THE VINEYARD, GARSTON. 
lx view of the River Mersey, a little over six miles 
from Liverpool, and within a quarter of an hour's walk 
from Allerton Station on the London and FTorth- 
Western Railway, and Garston on the Cheshire Lines 
Committee Railway, some forty years ago, Mr. Joseph 
Meredith commenced operations as a Cucumber grower, 
subsequently adding the cultivation of Vines, and in a 
few years Garston became famous for its Vineries, and 
its splendid crops of Grapes placed the grower on the 
highest pinnacle of fame as a cultivator and exhibitor 
of this, the most esteemed of all dessert fruits. Prize 
bunches were grown in houses facing east and west, 
although the first-named position was preferred. Span- 
roofed erections also played their part in producing 
fruit which graced the tables of Her Majesty ; of the 
Emperor of Germany, when his head-quarters were at 
Versailles during the Franco-German war ; of the late 
Emperor of the French, when he was confined at 
Wilhelmshoe ; of the Pope of Rome ; the President of 
the United States, and many other important person¬ 
ages. From a span-roofed house, planted in 1857, was 
cut a bunch of Black Hamburgh, perfectly coloured 
and compact, weighing 91 lbs., which was awarded the 
highest prize, in 1S65, which the Royal Botanic Society, 
Regent’s Park, had the power to give ; medals, cups 
and prizes from various places in England and on the 
continent; and especially the triumphant success as 
the winner of that splendid trophy, the “Queen’s 
Prize,” at Hamburgh, in 1869, which caused the name 
of Meredith and the Vineyard at Garston to be known 
throughout the horticultural world. There are still 
here, in bearing order, two Vineries, one of which is 
devoted to Gros Guillaume, with bunches now hanging 
