November 6, 1886. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
151 
■ As a rule, trees—especially conifers—appear to dis¬ 
like coarse manure about their roots ; but decayed 
turf, rotten leaf-mould, and, indeed, any mixed refuse 
or rubbish, especially if of a different nature from the 
soil in which the plantation is being made, assist to 
form composts which greatly stimulate the growth of 
newly-planted trees. If a plantation be made in stony 
soil there is no necessity for removing the stones. To 
many trees they are beneficial rather than otherwise, 
and to very few indeed do they appear detrimental. 
Experiment has proved that the removal of stones from 
stony land impairs its fertility to a remarkable degree 
at least for some years. 
Persons who buy trees rarely examine them closely 
to see they are what is required. In the purchase of 
grafted or budded trees, see that the uniou between 
the stock and the bud be properly effected. Sometimes 
—and this chiefly occurs among trees of continental 
growth—a slim graft is embedded in a thick bludgeon 
of a stock out of all proportion to it. Sometimes it is 
a vigorously-shooting species that is wedded to a slow- 
growing stock, which cannot furnish the quantity of 
sap required. In both cases failure, sooner or later, is 
the result. In the ease of budded plants, it is the 
stock that is generally the most delicate part. Unless 
it is healthy and well stored with sap, the bud, however 
vigorous at first, will gradually decay. 
In the case of choice and delicate trees and shrubs, 
do not as some do, from a mistaken feeling, select the 
lowest and most sheltered spots to plant them in. This 
is often done, however, in the case of plants liable to 
injury from the cold of our climate. Experience proves 
that in valleys and inclosures they suffer more from 
frosts than in more elevated and open situations. The 
protection required by plants that are affected by 
our climatic conditions, is rather the screening of them 
from the bitterness of our north-east winds in spring, 
than shutting them out from healthy summer breezes, 
iu closely secluded nooks and places. Such plants 
are stimulated into early growth in spring, and 
late growth in autumn, and, in both cases, the tender 
sappy shoots are unable to resist frost. In more open 
and exposed situations the growth is shorter, but the 
wood of the shoots is better ripened, and, therefore, 
better able to withstand cold and exposure. 
---- 
Gardening S'otes from 
Scotland. 
Storing Strawberries. —The forcing of these 
will now be claiming attention by those who have 
means to meet their requirements, others will reserve 
their stock for a few weeks to come, as very early 
forcing is not now so fashionable as it once was. What 
is of the greatest importance at present, is the storing 
of the pots, to keep the plants in the best of health till 
they are wanted during the forcing season. For the 
sake of system and convenience, we would put them in 
consecutive lots, which could be removed under glass, 
either to frames and pits to start them with gentle 
bottom heat, or to shelves near the glass in a mild 
temperature also. We notice that many extensive 
growers force only one or two kinds, and we think such a 
practice a wise one ; where plants have to be planted 
out after being forced, they are not so likely to get 
mixed when the kinds grown are few. For some weeks 
past drizzly weather has prevailed, mild enough, but 
not favourable to ripening the crowns of the plants ; in 
the north, such weather is more adverse to success 
than in the south, as in the former maturation is much 
later. Opinions vary as to the best method of harvest¬ 
ing the plants—were we to put them where we liked 
and employ what means of protection we considered 
best, full south would be the position, the pots plunged 
in ashes to the brims, and frames placed over them on 
which lights could be placed at pleasure ; but coddling 
the plants is productive of much evil. Few can spare 
glass protection for Strawberries, and, therefore, adopt 
that means of protection which circumstances allow ; a 
cool orchard house would suit, or a framework of stakes 
and rods, to throw mats or canvas over during severe 
weather. Snow, when melting, is better thrown off, 
and water should never remain about the plants. The 
stacking of the pots on their sides —bottom to bottom— 
and Fern, straw, hay or ashes packed between the 
pots, leaving the plants exposed, answers fairly well if 
the plants are not allowed to become dry, as happens 
occasionally after a dry winter, and when the sun 
comes out bright in February. We have seen large 
numbers of pots placed against a wall sloping outwards 
at bottom ; the chief object is to keep the roots healthy 
and intact till fruit is ripened. In case of a sudden 
change of weather, it would now be well to take steps 
towards the storing of Strawberries in pots. 
The Forcing of Roots such as Asparagus, 
Chicory, Sea Kale and Rhubarb, may soon have at¬ 
tention. Asparagus with well-developed crowns may 
be lifted, cleared of a large portion of the soil, and 
packed on a gentle hot-bed of leaves, tan, well-sweatend 
manure, or any other safe heat. A little soil above and 
below the roots, with a watering to make the whole 
fairly moist, are the chief ivants of the roots at present. 
Top-heat should not be very high (55° to 60° is suffi¬ 
cient), otherwise lanky produce would be the result. 
It is difficult in northern parts to get roots and crowns 
matured early enough to begin forcing from the middle 
of October to the first of November, but early positions 
and light sandy soil does much to hasten ripening ; 
with ourselves, the tops are yet almost green. 
Chicory is not so generally cultivated as it deserves ; 
it is so wholesome, and when blanched white makes up 
for the absence of Lettuce or Endive. The lifting of 
roots, as many as may be required to give a fortnight’s 
supply or thereabouts, and the placing of them in dark 
close quarters, closely together, w here air and light are 
excluded, covered with soil and the tops uppermost, 
are their chief wants. Watering is not absolutely 
necessary at first, but an application of tepid water, 
say 75° or 80°, will warm the soil and start upward 
grow'th from the crowns, which are fit for use when 
4 ius. to 6 ins. long. A few roots may be taken in 
every few weeks ; if they are strong a continuous 
supply can be had for a number of weeks from the 
same roots. 
Sea Kale is forced in a great variety of ways, many 
still preferring to cover the crowns with warm leaves, 
or a mixture of leaves and manure ; pots with covers 
are first placed, then the fermenting material over all. 
It must be carefully watched, as when over-heating 
takes place, the crowns are quickly destroyed. Roots 
placed closely together in soil, as described Tor Chicory, 
in close dark structures of any kind, will soon sprout 
into growth and give supplies. Boxes with warm 
manure in them, or placed in a warm position and 
filled with roots is a simple method of raising Sea Kale. 
Numerous are the ways of forcing Sea Kale, but 
blanching thoroughly must always be kept in mind. 
Rhubarb may be forced in the same manner, and it 
generally receives similar treatment, but heat and 
moisture, with the addition of air, improves it; Prince 
Albert is a good early kind.— M. T. 
Quality of Grapes, &c. —It might be con¬ 
sidered inconsistent with the ordinary rules of courtesy 
were I to omit any reference to the well-meant remarks 
of “Fair Play,” at p. 135; please, therefore, permit 
me to say that I should be sorry indeed to put the 
case as he suggests, or, as he says, “supposes.” The 
exhibition to which “ Fair Play ’’ refers was altogether 
an excellent one, and well worthy of the men whose 
high-class exhibits represented their “horticultural” 
skill so well. The collection referred to contained 
some excellent produce, quite different to what I am 
“supposed” to represent them; and, as far as my 
memory serves me, many items in the second prize 
lot of this class were of special merit, and such as one 
would expect from the exhibitor, who has so often dis¬ 
tinguished himself as a cultivator, and given such 
tangible proof of his ability to the world by often 
tabling produce of such excellence, as to remove 
him above all quibbling or opinions enveloped in 
ambiguity. 
There are opinions retained by “ Fair Play ” which 
are foreign to our own, and he has made remarks which 
we cannot endorse ; but with the last six lines of his 
letter we heartily agree. We have had two com¬ 
munications sent us bearing on this subject, but will 
let them rest, as it is far from our wish to place 
irrelevant matter where it should not exist.— M. T. 
Scottish Horticultural Association.— At 
a largely attended ordinary meeting of this association, 
held at 5, St. Andrew Square, Edinburgh, on Tuesday 
night, Mr. Alexander Milne, president, in the chair- 
Mr. William E. Dixon, associate of the Botanical 
Society, read a paper on the Eucalyptus, or gum tree. 
It was, he said, indigenous to Australia, and from it 
were derived timber, paper, medicines, &c. About 200 
distinct species were known, and a large number of 
varieties also ; Mr. Dixon described many of these, and 
produced specimens of the branches, flowers, &c. It 
was, he added, discovered more than a century ago, 
but only a limited number were found suitable for the 
British climate. Mr. A. Laing, Salisbury Green, 
Edinburgh, also contributed a paper, the subject being 
“ Hardy Shrubs suitable for forcing.” At the outset, 
he said, the ever-increasing demand for a constant 
supply of flowers throughout the year, either for cutting 
or for the decoration of conservatories and mansions, 
has led gardeners and growers for the market to 
press into service a good many hardy flowers and 
flowering shrubs that are capable of being forced into 
bloom, when flowers out of doors are scarce, or not to 
be had at all. The rest of the paper treated of such 
plants, and pointed out how they might be grown. 
Both contributions were discussed, and votes of thanks 
were awarded to the contributors. 
It was intimated by the President that various gentle¬ 
men in Edinburgh, including Mr. M’Ewan, M.P., and 
Mr. Robert Wallace, M.P., had given donations 
towards the fund for the promotion of the association’s 
first Chrysanthemum show, to be held in Edinburgh 
in December. Amongst specimens sent for exhibition 
at the meeting w T ere a new Chrysanthemum, named 
Mrs. John Laing, trom Mr. Rushton, Clerwood, Cor- 
storphine ; a splendid lot of Chrysanthemum blooms 
from Mr. James Carruthers, Hill wood, Corstorphine ; 
a collection of early-flowering Chrysanthemums from 
Messrs. Methven and Sons ; and a new seedling Grape 
from Mr. Fowler, gardener to the Earl of Stair, at 
Castle Kennedjq Stranraer. 
-- 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
THE FRUIT GARDEN. 
If it is intended to add any fruit trees to the garden, 
or if it be desirable to transplant any of those already 
in the collection, the present is an excellent time for 
the operation, or as soon as the leaves have fallen. 
Avoid very wet weather, liow'ever, if possible, as when 
the soil is in a sodden state, it is often forced into a 
muddy condition, that, in the case of heavy clay land, 
is most injurious to fruit tree roots, as they are, 
perhaps, crushed into a roughly dug hole, and the wet 
earth crammed over them, crippling their action and 
resulting in stunted and imperfect growth, from -which, 
probably, the trees never recover. In the planting of 
all kinds of fruit trees, it must be remembered that too 
much care cannot be exercised in spreading out the 
roots evenly ; and if the soil at the time of planting be 
either too wet or too dry, it is very hurtful to the trees. 
When preparing the sites for trees, make holes 
sufficiently large to admit all the roots without crowd¬ 
ing, spreading them so that they radiate regularly from 
the trunk of the tree at a moderate depth below the 
surface. It is a bad plan to place the roots of trees 
very deep when planting, as they have always suffi¬ 
cient tendency to take a downward direction, but the 
depth at which the roots are to be placed must be 
determined in a great measure by the character of the 
soil; in heavy land they must be only covered a few 
inches in depth, but in light land they can be safely— 
indeed preferably—placed much deeper. 
The object is to keep the roots under the control of 
the cultivator ; as while this is done it is comparatively 
easy to restrain excessive luxuriance and preserve a 
healthy fruitful balance of root and branch growth. 
Whenever it has been noted that trees against walls or 
elsewhere are too vigorous and unfruitful, one of the 
best antidotes is to lift and root-prune them, re-laying 
the roots as advised in the genera^planting. Amateurs 
occasionally fall into the error of resorting to hard 
pruning in the case of trees that make too strong a 
growth, under the impression that by removing so 
much wood the trees will be weakened. The result is 
quite the reverse if the roots are left untended or 
checked, and the following season the growth is more 
gross and less fruitful than before. Inducing a fruitful 
habit when trees have been long neglected can only be 
effected gradually, but much may be done in one 
season if the work is judiciously performed in the 
manner indicated.— Scolytus. 
