November 13, 1886. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
167 
to Mr. James Wyatt, gardener to J. Perry, Esq., of 
Bradenliurst, Caterham Valley, for six well-furnished 
blooms of Nil Desperandum. Mr. Russell was second 
with Jeanne d’Arc ; and Mr. A. Holmes, of Clapham 
Park, third ; there were fifteen exhibitors. Class 5 for 
eighteen Japanese varieties, distinct, with fourteen 
entries, was a blaze of colour. First, Mr. J. Munro, 
gardener to E. P. D. Paul, Esq., of Twickenham, with 
fine blooms of Marguerite Marrouch and Madame C. 
Audiguier, &c. ; Mr. E. Willis second, and Mr. H. W. 
Ward, third. The class for twelve Japanese, distinct, 
contained the greatest number of entries (sixteen) ; Mr. 
H. Shoesmith, of Hythe, was first. In this stand was an 
excellent bloom of Mdlle. Lacroix. Mr. Fred Moon, 
of Bexley, second, and Mr. Cole, of Bristol, third. 
The first prize in class 7, six Japanese, one variety, 
was one of the treats of the show ; Mr. C. Gibson’s 
grandiflora were the finest we have seen ; Mr. A. 
Elphick, of Reigate, second, with Madame C. Audiguier; 
and Mr. Shoesmith, third, with six Elaine. In the 
class for twelve reflexed, Mr. F. W. Flight, Twyford, 
was first, Mr. E. Willis, second, and Mr. C. Gibson, 
third. The large-flowered Anemones, twelve distinct 
varieties, brought forward fourteen entries, the first 
honours going to Mr. M. Sullivan, of Roehampton, 
for a fine stand- containing Lady Margaret; Fleur de 
Marie, &c. ; Mr. Fred Moore, second, and Mr. C. 
Penfold, third. Both classes 10 and 11, for Pompons, 
were well represented, as also the class for six Anemone 
Japanese, in which Mr. C. Gibson was again first, 
followed by Messrs. W. & G. Drover, and Mr. H. W. 
Ward, in the order named. 
The great feature of the show was the thirteen groups 
of plants staged in the three classes. With a collection 
of incurved varieties Mr. James Townsend, of Putney, 
secured the first prize, with Mr. N. Davis, of Cam¬ 
berwell, a close second. In the collections for Japanese 
varieties only, Mr. Geo. Edwards, of Balliam, was first; 
Messrs. John Laing & Co., of Forest Hill, second ; and 
Mr. N. Davis, third. Class 16, collections of plants for 
amateurs, Mr. W. Wester, gardener to Mrs. Croll, of 
Upper Norwood, arranged a grand collection, and 
well deserved the first honours ; Mr. John Howes, 
second ; and Mr. F. Ball, of Tooting, third. Trained 
plants were also well shown by Mr. E. Cherry, Mr. C. 
Portway, Mr. G. Kinson, Mr. Wm. Griffin and Mr. A. 
Tomlin. Amongst the miscellaneous exhibits were 
some grand blooms of Chrysanthemums and Pompons 
from Messrs. Cannell & Son, of Swanley, to whom five 
First Class Certificates were awarded ; also a box of 
single Begonias from Messrs. J. Laing & Co., of Forest 
Hill. 
Reports of Brixton and Lambeth shows are unavoid¬ 
ably held over. 
-—- 
§ARDENING ffoTES FROM 
^Scotland. 
_ ♦ _ 
The Martinmas Term.— As usual, on Thursday, 
the Edinburgh nursery and seed trade had a busy day 
among journeymen and foremen gardeners, but this 
year shows a marked falling off in the number 
changing. A large number of young men did not find 
situations, owing to ordinary reductions in the winter 
staff, and extra reductions caused by depression among 
the landed proprietors. The young men also seem to 
be profiting from the experience gained at former times, 
and are not so ready to change annually, when they 
find themselves in a good situation. 
Seasonable Notes.— Peas. — It is generally 
considered a poor garden in which a few early Peas are 
not grown ; and simple as the cultivation of this very 
popular vegetable may appear to be, there are few crops 
that give greater anxiety or trouble than very early 
Peas. In northern parts it is an old-established custom 
to sow Peas in November for the first crop—about the 
middle to the end of the month is considered a good 
time—but some still hold to dates, and if, perchance, a 
severe frost, a deep snowfall, or a deluge of rain should 
take place about the fixed date, it gives cause for great 
anxiety to the thoroughly “orthodox” friends. Itneed 
not, however, as they can always make up for a few 
days’ lost time, by placing the seed in a vessel of water 
and keeping them under cover, in a temperature of 
50° or thereabouts. The quality of the seed is thus 
proved, and sowing may be done accordingly. 
Sowing more thickly than usual is the general practice 
at this season ; some put in double rows, but we have 
not yet learned the propriety of such a system. If 
sowing now is preferable to waiting and raising the 
Peas in frames or other protection at the turn of the 
year for planting out in March, we would advise doing 
the work well. Where trenching may be done without 
doing mischief to trained fruit trees or borders—early 
crops or others for protection are generally iu close 
proximity to such—we would trench two spades deep 
for Peas, levelling and breaking the surface well, and 
sow thereon ; a dusting of red lead next the seed, and 
a covering with dry light soil is a good beginning. 
Chopped Furze, Barley chaff, and other preventives are 
often used to help to ward off vermin (rats and mice 
especially) from devouring the seed. These preventives 
have another use, they protect the seed to some extent 
from severe weather, and, we think, encourage free 
rooting. When the young tops begin to push through 
the surface of the soil, a dusting of fine ashes, sand, 
old tan, leaf-mould, or some other similar material will 
act as protection ; early staking of the rows also does 
much to protect young growth. It is a good practice to 
put rows of Peas between the Winter Spinach ; the 
ground having been well prepared for the latter, is in 
good order for the Peas, and the Pea stakes in return 
shelter the rows of Spinach between them. 
We would sow two or three kinds of early Peas. 
William the First is a favourite for early picking ; and 
one which generally does well as a close succession to 
the above, is Sangster’s No. 1 Improved. Carter’s First 
Crop seems to be a selection from, this favourite, and 
Sutton’s Ringleader is one which may be classed on the 
same level. Birds are often very destructive to young 
Pea tops, and are often scared by lines of thread 
stretched along the rows ; dustings of soot, syringings 
of Gishurst Compound and other mixtures may be 
used with advantage to make the young growths 
obnoxious to the feathered tribe. Dwarf Peas are very 
useful for small gardens, and Blue Peter and Little 
Gem are very suitable for sowing a foot and a half 
apart. A net may be used as a protection from birds. 
The good plan of raising Peas under glass, as indicated, 
saves much of the labour which is imposed by sowing 
now. 
Globe Artichokes may now be protected by placing 
round their collars, ashes, dry leaves, litter or such 
material to throw off damp and keep out severe frost ; 
soil drawn up around the collars acts fairly well, but 
in localities where damp prevails, substantial protection 
is really necessary. 
Sea Kale and Rhubarb are all the better for 
having protection over the crowns, not from severity of 
the weather, as they are both very hardy, but when 
vegetation begins no check is sustained. Lifting for 
forcing is rendered more easy during frost when a 
covering over the roots can be removed. Though frost 
may not appear to be very near, provision should be 
made to avoid being caught unawares. 
Cauliflower and autumn Broccoli should be lifted 
to safe quarters as soon as the hearts are of fair size. 
Hoops and mats may be got ready for Parsley, where 
better means are not at disposal to keep the leaves in order 
for daily pickings. A few dozen Parsnips, according to 
demand, may be dug and covered with straw or soil. 
Turnips may have.soil drawn over the roots as protec¬ 
tion, and also a quantity placed under cover for 
immediate use. 
While one keeps the vegetable crops in safety, other 
things in the ornamental grounds must not be over¬ 
looked. Any plants requiring protection at their roots 
should have prompt attention. Half-hardy plants on 
walls must be kept in mind ; where ferns abound it is 
excellent for protection of wall plants. Bulbs planted 
into beds, though ever so hardy, should have protection 
placed over them. Lifting, partially drying off, and 
storing of Dahlia roots claims attention ; these often 
are dried till they are useless, and many roots are lost 
by their remaining in damp cellars ; they retain their 
vitality best when placed in dry sand. 
Roses. —The planting of these is generally per¬ 
formed during November and December, but if plants 
are as vigorous and far from showing signs of cessation 
of growth as our own, we would leave planting alone 
for the present; but the preparation of the ground is 
of great moment, and if the soil is cold, damp, and of 
a clayey nature, deep trenching is an important part 
of the management. It is not necessary to bring up 
the sub-soil but thoroughly turning it over and break¬ 
ing it will do much for the successful growth of the 
Roses. If the bottom is sandy and dry means to keep 
the roots upward is of primary importance ; good rich 
soil to plant in with liberal mulchings of rotten manure 
will keep the roots right for some time, but during hot 
dry seasons they are apt to grow downwards in search 
of moisture, and will get into the sandy bottom, then 
mildew will soon follow. When planting beds of Roses, 
we always prefer dwarfs, budded close to the roots, and 
the junction kept below the surface ; roots are thus 
emitted and a maximum amount of suckers have to be 
cleared off. Lifting and transplanting Roses suits 
them well, ahd their roots kept well up does much to 
induce free flowering, and keep the plants in even 
healthy growth. Beds of (say half-a-dozen) of one kind 
of Rose have a very distinct appearance, and it is much 
better to have a choice hardy free-flowering selection 
than a great collection for variety only.— M. T. 
-- 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
The grass on lawns, owing to the comparatively mild 
autumn, has made more growth than usual, and before 
the frosts become severe it will be advisable to mow 
slightly with a scythe, so as to render the lawn as 
neat as possible for the winter. It is not advisable to 
cut the grass too closely at this time of the year, as it 
is liable to suffer in long-continued or very sharp frosts ; 
but a trimming will be advantageous, and it will 
render the subsequent work much easier. Sweep the 
lawns at least once or twice a week, and run the roller 
over them when the weather is not too wet, to render 
the surface firm and free from worm-casts. 
Walks must have similar attention, and their con¬ 
dition during the winter will depend largely upon the 
attention they now receive. All drains at sides of 
walks should be cleared, and a free passage provided 
for the rain, as, however well walks are constructed, 
they are speedily spoiled if the water remains upon the 
surface. Never attempt, however, to place the roller 
on a walk immediately after rain, or more harm than 
good will result, and it is similarly useless to roll paths 
when the gravel is frozen. 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
Primulas are now coming into flower, and as they 
will continue in succession for a month or two, it is 
needful to give them some attention, especially in 
supplying them with water. Carelessness in the per¬ 
formance of this operation causes the loss of many 
plants, as they are very liable to decay at the “collar,” 
that is, the base of the stem next to the soil, which is 
often brought about by the reverse of the supposed 
cause. If once allowed to become thoroughly dry, the 
tender young roots are killed, and though the leaves 
may appear healthy for a time they soon turn yellow, 
and upon examination it is found that the stem is de¬ 
cayed partly or entirely through. The fact is, a plant 
is, perhaps, found to be dry, with the leaves slightly 
drooping ; water is immediately poured into the pot 
to saturate the soil, and as the roots have then lost 
their power of absorption it becomes stagnant, and 
decay at once commences. 
The great evil to be avoided is, therefore, once 
allowing the soil to become dust-dry, and on the other 
hand never supply water liberally when it is seen that 
the soil is really moist, or when the plant is unhealthy. 
Frequent attention is necessary, and without this suc¬ 
cess with Primulas is very uncertain. Give them a 
light position near the glass, and ventilate as much as 
possible whenever the weather is favourable. -Most of 
the inmates of this house will now require greater care 
in watering and ventilation, as a cold moisture-laden 
atmosphere is apt to cause damp, and on foggy or wet 
days the ventilators should be open but slightly.— 
Scolytus. __ 
Improved Method of Preserving Wood. —The 
improved French method of preserving wood by the 
application of lime is found to work well. The plan is 
to pile the planks in a tank, and to put over all a layer 
of quicklime, which is gradually slaked with water. 
Timber for mines requires about a week to be thoroughly 
impregnated, and other wood more or less time ac¬ 
cording to its thickness. The material acquires re¬ 
markable consistence and hardness, it is stated, on being 
subjected to this simple process, and the assertion is 
made that it will never rot. Beech wood, prepared in 
this way for hammers and other tools for ironwork, is 
found to acquire the hardness of Oak, without parting 
with any of its well-known elasticity or roughness, and 
it also lasts longer .—North British Agriculturist. 
