January 29, 1887. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
349 
vineries, and have also dressed and tied the canes into 
position. The walls have all been washed with quick¬ 
lime, to which was added a good sprinkling of sulphur. 
The Forcing House. —Introduce more Roses, Aza¬ 
leas and all plants and bulbs for forcing as is necessary 
for the supply. We are now filling the Peach house 
shelves with Sir Joseph Paxton Strawberries ; these 
will come on slowly, but always give first-rate crops of 
fruit. __ 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
General Work. —At length we are enabled to 
resume digging and general outdoor work. We have 
made a good sowing of American Wonder and William I. 
Peas on sheltered south borders ; also a sowing of 
Radishes, which will succeed those on the hot-bed. 
Should the weather continue fine for a few days, we 
shall sow the Parsnips ; the square having been dug 
for some time, has, through the action of the frosts, 
become quite mellow, and in fine condition for the 
crop. We have also, as advised, made a sowing of 
Early London and Eclipse Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts 
and Cos Lettuce. Take care that the autumn-sown 
Cauliflowers are kept as hardy as possible by removing 
the lights whenever the weather will permit. If 
coddled at all they are almost sure to flower pre¬ 
maturely. 
In case of failure, a sowing of one of the small early 
varieties should at once be made, pricking out the 
plants under cover as soon as large enough to handle, 
and leaving a certain quantity to flower ; when pricked 
out in this way much time may be gained. Serve 
Lettuce in the same manner ; any spare lights in the 
frame-ground will suit admirably. If not already done, 
prick over the herb-beds, giving to all a good top¬ 
dressing of leaf-soil and horse-droppings. In case 
of new beds of Rhubarb being required, let the square 
to be occupied be double-dug, and a liberal dressing of 
good manure applied ; when it has settled, mark out 
and plant divisions from the stools previously selected 
for the purpose. Fill up blanks in the Cabbage-squares 
(if any), and plant successions from those pricked out 
in the autumn. — Walter Child, Croome Court. 
- ~>X<~ - 
HORTICULTURAL SOCIETIES. 
Liverpool Horticultural Association.— 
On Saturday evening, 22nd inst., the members of this 
association met together in the Free Public Library, 
William Brown Street, to hear papers read by Mr. 
A. R. Cox, Elm Hall, Wavertree, on the “Cultivation 
of the Ixora,” and by Mr. Ranger, Aigbnrth Nursery, 
on the “Clematis.” Papers from these two excellent 
cultivators resulted in a very large gathering of the 
members. This was expected, for Mr. Cox has un¬ 
doubtedly grown and shown during the past few years 
finer specimen Ixoras than, perhaps, any other culti¬ 
vator. It will be remembered that he staged a number 
of very great excellence at the Royal Horticultural 
Society’s Provincial Show, held in Liverpool. 
Mr. Cox considered the Ixora the king of the stove¬ 
flowering plants, and ably pointed out its great beauty, 
both for home decoration and exhibition purposes. 
Cuttings could be rooted any time during the year, but 
he considered February the best time ; sturdy shoots, 
with two pair of leaves of the previous season’s wood, 
being the best. These would strike freely and quickly 
in sawdust in the propagating case if bottom-heat, 
ranging from 65° to 90°, could be given. When rooted, 
he advised the young plants to be placed singly into 
3Lin. pots, using soil that has been passed through a 
sieve; but this should be dispensed with after the 
first potting. The importance of draining the pots 
thoroughly and effectually was strongly urged, for this 
operation was often left to inexperienced persons. The 
quantity of drainage not being so important as the 
method of placing it in the pot, 4^ ins. in a 16-in. pot 
he considered ample, and in similar proportion in 
those of a smaller size. 
Mr. Cox considered fibry peat, sand and a little 
charcoal the best compost for these plants, but it should 
always be warmed to the temperature of the structure 
m which the plants were growing previous to use. 
After potting the cuttings, they should be returned for 
a time to the propagating box, and then hardened and 
placed on a shelf in the stove. In the cultivation of 
these plants by plunging the pots in bottom heat, Mr. 
Cox had had no experience, and did not consider this 
practice necessary to success ; in fact, he condemned 
the system when growing the plants for exhibition. 
He also strongly repudiated the method of filling the 
pots too full of soil, so that they would not hold suffi¬ 
cient water to thoroughly soak the whole mass. It 
was contended that success or the reverse depended 
very largely upon the method of watering adopted. 
The water used should always be 5° warmer than the 
temperature in which the plants were grown. The 
supply of water should be liberal during the growing 
season and the syringe should be freely used twice 
daily, for the Ixora delights in heat and moisture. 
Pinching the shoots should commence after the 
young plants were established, and again when another 
pair of leaves had been made, and continued until the 
plant possessed six shoots. These should then be 
allowed to extend until they are 1 ft. in length, 
stopped and tied out to form the base of the then 
specimen. After this had been attained, Mr. Cox 
disbelieved in a system of pinching, but preferred to 
let the plants extend naturally and they would throw 
up suckers from the base freely. 
An annual system of pruning was recommended to 
insure regularity in the flowering of the plant ; by 
cutting back to a good pair of leaves two shoots would 
be the result. The best time for this practice depended 
entirely upon the time the plants were required to 
bloom. If the plants showed signs of flowering too 
early they could be pinched back, but it would take 
eight weeks from pinching to having them again in 
creditable exhibition condition ; two weeks longer 
would be required in the case of I. coccinea, which 
required longer time than any other variety. 
Mr. Cox did not recommend keeping the Ixoras too 
warm during the winter, a suitable temperature being 
60° by night with a rise of 10° by day; during summer 
it might range from 70° to 115°, the last by sun heat 
after closing the house. The ventilators were never 
opened during the winter or on windy occasions, and 
only at the top in summer ; shade was advised during 
the hottest part of the day. Mr. Cox, in his remarks 
upon the different varieties, said that I. Duffi (macro- 
thyrsa) was a truly noble giant form, but still he con¬ 
sidered the old coccinea the best of them all, for its 
flowers would last in perfection considerably longer 
than any other variety. 
The discussion on this, as well as Mr. Ranger’s 
paper, was somewhat limited and brief, owing to two 
papers being read the same evening. Several members, 
however, took part in the discussion, which rendered 
the meeting profitable and interesting to all. Hearty 
votes of thanks were accorded to Messrs. Cox, Ranger, 
Bardney, and R. W. Ker. Mr. White, vice-president 
of the association, occupied the chair, and a vote of 
thanks for his services brought the meeting to a close. 
-—- 
FLO RICULT URE. 
Auriculas. — Now that the snow has gone, and the 
frost has left the earth, bringing in milder and more 
genial weather, the Auriculas should be carefully gone 
over, all decayed leaves removed, and water given to 
any that need it. My plants were hard frozen for 
several days, and the house being surrounded with 
snow, I thought it was best to leave them alone until 
such time as they could be examined under more 
favourable circumstances. Being dry at the roots 
they have come through the ordeal uninjured, and 
now, having been carefully watered and the surface 
stirred, they have freshened up considerably. In 
another month, or less, if the weather should prove 
warm, they will commence to move, and then such 
top-dressing as is necessary should be done. I know 
that some of our leading growers do but little top¬ 
dressing, but much depends upon the condition of the 
soil. I have already prepared a compost for this 
work — nice yellow loam, leaf soil, some decomposed 
manure and sand. In taking off the surface soil, care 
should be taken that the roots are not in any wav 
injured, and the added soil should be pressed firmly 
down upon them. Plenty of air may be given now 
that the weather is mild, and young seedlings in stove 
pots that need more root-room, should be potted off at 
the time the top-dressing is done. In fact, every 
encouragement should then be given to the plants, 
large and small, so that when activity sets in, they 
may progress in the way that is most satisfactory to 
the cultivator. — R. D. 
QUESTIONS & ANSWERS. 
Bouvardias.— I should be much obliged if you would tell me 
the best plan of growing Bouvardias. Those we have are a 
failure. Should the temperature be hot or cold? and does 
syringing with paraffin harm them ? We used three wine-glass¬ 
ful’s of the oil to a large pot of water, and since then they have 
been going back, and the foliage drying off ,-G.B. [For autumn and 
winter flowering these should be struck from cuttings at the end 
of the year previous, or as early in the current year as possible. 
Place them in a temperature of 65° or 70’ if you can command it, 
v itli a rise by day; maintain a moist atmosphere ; you can root 
them in a lower temperature, but they will require longer time. 
After the cuttings have rooted, pot them singly and keep in the 
same genial atmosphere, close to the glass to prevent them from 
becoming drawn; pinch them several times to make them bushjn 
When they have attained some size, they may be hardened off 
by giving them plenty of air, and then transferred, about the end 
of summer, to a cold frame, where they will derive great benefit 
fiom a perfect exposure to the air; transfer them to a stove 
temperature when the weather becomes cold. If it is not desired 
to flower them immediately, they should be kept in a cooler 
house well exposed to the light for a time ; they should have, at 
least, a night temperature of 60’, to insure free growth and 
bloom. One wine-glassful of paraffin to two gallons of water, 
well stirred all the time it is being used, will be strong enough 
for jour purpose ; it must be used with caution, and the plants 
well syringed with clean water after the process.] 
Calvery Clover. —A friend of mine has some seeds sent him 
under the name of Calvery Clover, and lie asks me whether they 
are worth growing, and what time to sow them. Can you give 
me any information about it through the Gardening World ? 
—■/. S. jiff Notts. [We believe the plant called Calvery Clover 
is Medicago Echinus, a native of the Levant, but have no cer¬ 
tain knowledge, especially as you give no description of it. The 
leaves of the species named symbolise a cross, and each leaflet 
has a dark blotch resembling a wound. The plant has no special 
beauty, but may be cultivated out of curiosity. It may be 
treated as an annual, and either sown in pots a little later on 
and ultimately planted out, or it may be sown in the open 
border in April.] 
Peas.— Omicron. —(p. 333): For general and late crops I do 
not know of two Peas better adapted and more productive than 
Laxton's Fillbasket and Harrison's Glory, excepting in the case 
of very late Peas, when I have proved Laxton’s Omega and Ne 
Plus Ultra to surpass them both for lateness, flavour and quality. 
I would advise “ Omicron,” if he has not done so, to mve G F 
Wilson and Veitch's Perfection a trial; they are two well-known 
varieties belonging to the wrinkled marrow class, and rarely 
fail to give satisfaction. They would answer the purpose de¬ 
sired—a general and late supply, are both excellent croppers, and 
without a doubt, two of the best flavoured Peas cultivated.—!?.' 
Plants injured by Water.- N.J. D. : The leaves are no 
doubt injured by the water in the new tanks, and, for a time 
until the newness wears off, soft water from another source 
should be used. But why sju-inge at all at this season, and 
especially four times a day ? It is very bad practice. 
Calanthe Veitchii.— Last year my plants of this fine Orchid 
bore spikes of bloom that lasted a long time in perfection and 
were well coloured. They have never been properly coloured 
this time and are rapidly shrivelling up. I have given them pre¬ 
cisely the same treatment as they got last year. Can anyone 
say why they behave in this manner ?— A. F. R. 
Endive.— Having no spare sashes or empty frames in which 
to plant late-sown Endive, I covered it up with mats laid over 
some supports with the view of preserving it as long as possible. 
It all rotted away, however, in a very short time. The mats 
were left on continually. Would I have been more successful 
had I taken off the mats daily?— E. A. T. 
Greenfly. - My Cinerarias are badly infested on the underside 
of the leaves with green fly. How can I get rid of the pest with¬ 
out spoiling other plants in flower in the greenhouse ?- Amateur 
[By dipping them carefully in tobacco water.] 
Pears.— For the sake of obtaining as much variety as possible 
I want to plant a south aspect wall with as many varieties as I 
can grow in the space. Could any reader suggest what mode of 
training to adopt, and upon what stock the trees should be 
grafted l—Planter. 
Mistleto on the Poplar.— In answer to “Quo.,” p. 312 I 
may say that the White Poplar is the only one on which I have 
seen Mistleto growing. It would be interesting if more of your 
leaders, who kDow of any other trees besides those mentioned by 
me, would kindly name them for me and those interested, through 
the medium of your valuable pages.—/. S. T. 
British Ferns.— I am getting together a collection of British 
Ferns, for cultivation in a small conservatory. Could any corre 
spondent name a dozen or so of the most ornamental and easily 
managed varieties l—Pteris. 
Chrysanthemum. —Can any one inform me, through the 
medium of The Gardening World, of the names of eighteen of 
the best Chrysanthemums for decorative purposes. To com¬ 
mence with, I should like six Japanese, six incurved, and half a 
dozen late-flowering ones.— E. F. A. 
abundantly with me up to last year, when about half of the tree 
died after coming into leaf. Can I do anything to renovate this 
tree ? It is very much swollen at the graft.— R. W. 
Yew Trees.— We have two fine Yew trees, of the Irish variety 
which we desire to move to a more conspicuous part of the 
garden. When is the most convenient time to move them and 
what method should we adopt to ensure their safe removkl 9 — 
Taxus. ■ 
. ....i, j.. —a. a .. An 
seedsman would supply j-ou. 
Names of Plants. — J. C.: Zygopetalum Mackayi. 
Communications Received. —J. L. — F. W. B._J HR_ 
J- C.—R. O.—Saxon—B. L —W J M 
-M. T. M.-B. S. W.-W. G.-J. H. H.-J. S. T. 
