408 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
February 26, 1887. 
make, for it distributed tlie responsibility over so wide 
a surface that no sense of it seemed to be left, and the 
records of the proceedings of the several committees 
are so imperfect that no outsider can possibly know 
upon whom it should be saddled. 
A similar experience preceded the forming of the 
special societies. Why has it been thus ? Means have 
not been denied ; for in the forty years from which I 
date, upwards, I believe, of £150,000 have been poured 
into the coffers of the society and wasted ; and men 
have not been wanting, for enthusiasm has abounded, 
and horticulture and floriculture have advanced by 
great leaps and bounds. Provincial societies flourish, 
special societies multiply, but the R. H. S. alone, the 
society which should be the glory and crown of horti¬ 
culture, the admired and revered of all florists, stands 
bewildered, befogged — for ever, like Mr. Micawber, 
waiting for something to turn up. To me, the where¬ 
fore is not far to seek. It exists in the constitution of 
the society, which will continue to work its evil until 
it suffers a radical change. As at present constituted, 
it centres power in the hands of a virtually self-elected 
coterie ; and that coterie, again (as is the law of all 
coteries), is not ruled by its best members. Let me not 
be misunderstood. I impute no personal fault; but 
the rulers of the society are the victims of a vicious 
system, and, until that is altered, they will continue 
to move in a vicious circle.— E. S. Dodwell, Oxford, 
February 21st, 1887. 
-- 
YUCCA ALOIFOLIA VARIEGATA. 
This highly decorative plant may be generally seen 
in most places that have large conservatories or green¬ 
houses that require large plants to fill them up ; and 
from the fact of it having variegated foliage, it forms a 
very attractive object. When kept clean and slightly 
elevated it produces an effective relief, from the 
monotonous green foliage of other plants. To have 
this plant in the best condition, it should not be allowed 
to become bare of foliage at the bottom, otherwise it 
loses a great part of its charms. But how often we see 
unsightly plants of this variety with bare, and often 
crooked stems, sometimes several feet in length ! blow 
all this may be avoided with a little forethought, 
provided the gardener has the use of a stove or propa¬ 
gating house at his command. Bor winter or botanical 
gardens it may be necessary to allow this plant to run 
up and exhibit its proper character, but for general or 
exhibition purposes, a plant that is well furnished with 
foliage down to the pot is to be preferred. If any 
reader should have a plant that has become too tall for 
his house, and should be in a fix as to what to do with 
it, he should adopt the following plan, which -will 
succeed satisfactorily. The present time is the best to 
perform the operation, as neither Yuccas nor Agaves 
require a great amount of water during the winter 
months. The plants will be in a dry condition, with 
very little sap moving in them, therefore the present is 
the best time to bring the plants into proper form. 
The following will seem rather sharp practice to timid 
people, but a more successful plan cannot be devised, 
either for quickness or certainty. Take a strong sharp 
knife and cut the head completely off, just below the 
foliage. This done, get some grafting wax and rub it 
on the base of the cutting, being careful that it com¬ 
pletely covers the whole surface of the base. Then 
hang it upside down for a couple of days, at the end of 
which time it may be potted in damp sandy loam in a 
well-crocked pot. The size of the pot will have to be 
regulated according to the size of the cutting. I do 
not advise the taking away of any leaves from the base 
of the cutting. With care the foliage may be tied up, 
so that it will not occupy a great amount of space in 
the propagating house, where it should be taken and 
plunged in a bottom-heat of about 70°. Avoid watering 
the cutting for at least a fortnight, or longer if the soil 
is not dry. It will soon root, and when it has filled 
the bottom of the pot should be shifted into a larger 
size, using good sandy loam. As soon as re-established, 
remove the plant to an intermediate house, and ulti¬ 
mately to the greenhouse, where it will be a more 
fitting object, amongst other plants, than it was 
previously. 
An old idea at one time prevailed that these plants 
rooted better if the stem was cut round or ringed, and 
some moss or a pot cut in two was tied round the 
incision. That practice was a safe one, but the time 
occupied in rooting the head was longer, and after all 
the top has to be taken into heat to establish it. This 
plant can be increased by several other means, such as 
the strong rhizomes that form at the base of the stem, 
as well as from side-shoots that naturally break out 
on the old stem after the head has been cut off. These 
take a considerable time to make plants fit for exhi¬ 
bition purposes, but are useful for mixing amongst 
other greenhouse plants, especially in the winter 
months. — W. (7. 
-—>A<->- 
STEAMING v. FUMIGATING. 
It is always pleasing to be able to congratulate any¬ 
one on the success of any method or suggestion that 
enables a difficulty to be overcome, and certainly, 
thanks are due to Mr. B. S. Williams for the intro¬ 
duction of the new “Thanatophore,” which, so far as 
we have been able to test, is a complete success. I was 
greatly interested in watching the experiment carried 
out at the Victoria and Paradise Nurseries with this 
apparatus before it was sent out, and the result of 
the trial was sufficient to prove its usefulness ; for 
to the pests which so trouble us it was indeed true to 
its name, a sure death giver. 
One of the first apparatuses came to us and has since 
been fairly tried, commencing with a small house in 
which were placed some Phalsenopsis, Dendrobiums, 
Cattleyas, Ltelia anceps, Odontoglossums, Masdevallia 
Tovarensis, Saccolabiums and Sophronitis, all in bloom; 
also some Odontoglossum vexillarium, Cypripediums 
and Vandas, and a general lot of Orchids ; so as to try, 
with a fair use, its effect on the flowers and plants. 
There were also some Perns with young fronds, and 
Crotons, with both thrip and fly on them, which were 
put in. In about twenty minutes the fly was done for; 
the thrip took a little longer, but the steaming was as 
successful as could be desired. 
Carefully watching the plants for some ten days, 
and finding not the slightest ill effects on either flowers 
or plants, we tried the Odontoglossum Alexandra 
house, with the same result, and since, at intervals of 
about seven days, we have “steamed” the Odontoglossum 
vexillarium house, also the Cattleya, Vanda, Lycaste, 
Cypripedium, iErides and Masdevallia houses, and so 
far with the best results. No doubt the apparatus 
requires care, but to make anything successful care 
must be taken. If a good bright fire be kept up, and 
the instructions followed, I am quite sure it will be 
found a saving in time, and a means of keeping the 
different pests well under, and this without in any way 
injuring the plants during the operation.— St. George. 
-- 
HARDY FLOWERS FOR 
AMATEURS’ GARDENS. 
Amateur gardeners who are imperfectly acquainted 
with the characters of some hardy flowers are sometimes 
found asking “What can we grow that will flower con¬ 
tinuously during the summer, and be worthy the labour 
bestowed upon them ?” I do not wonder at the question 
being put, for I know of nothing more bewildering than 
for an amateur to go through a long list of flower seeds 
such as one can find in what used to be termed “fat 
catalogues, ” and endeavour to fix upon something that 
would answer their requirements. I am sure they 
frequently hit upon what disappoints rather than 
delights, and because I wish to save some from this 
disappointment, I venture to name some things that 
can be sown now and during the spring, which, if 
properly managed, cannot fail to make their gardens 
gay, and give them something to cut from throughout 
the summer without danger of robbing their gardens 
and destroying the effects of their beds and borders. 
The varieties of Anemone coronaria can be purchased 
in the form of dry roots at a small cost; but it is com¬ 
paratively easy to raise plants from seed. A packet of 
something good can be purchased for a moderate price, 
and if sown at once in a shallow wooden box, and 
placed in a greenhouse, the seed will germinate in 
due course, and the plants can be placed out of doors 
as soon as large enough. If the soil is good they will 
grow sufficiently in size to flower next spring— 
the spring of 1888. Some seeds of Primrose and 
Polyanthus, similarly treated, will come into flower at 
the same time. The pretty blue Cornflower, Cyanus 
minor, in colours of purple, blue, rose and striped, are 
easily raised from seeds sown in the open ground ; they 
are hardy, flower freely, and are most valuable for cut¬ 
ting from. So are the annual Chrysanthemums—the 
double white and yellow forms of C. coronarium ; and 
what is known as C. tricolor. Coreopsis tinctoria and 
coronata are excellent and continuous hardy annuals ; 
and C. Burridgii, also known as Cosmidium Burridgii, 
with its crimson and yellow flowers, is very attractive. 
In some catalogues Coreopsis is found under the head 
of Calliopsis. Single Dahlias must not be excluded; 
the seeds should be raised in heat, and the plants put 
out in the open ground early in June, bearing in mind 
that they are of free growth, and in a majority of cases, 
both tall and branching, so they should have an abun¬ 
dance of room. The varieties -of the perennial Del¬ 
phinium make very fine border flowers, and if seed be 
sown at once in a little heat, and the plants grown on 
as fast as possible, they will bloom finely in late sum¬ 
mer. No section of hardy plants yield such rich hues 
of blue as do the Delphiniums. The Indian Pinks are 
charming annuals, and especially the large-flowered 
Heddewigii and its variety laciniatus. 
The Gaillardias, though classed among the perennials, 
are really capable of being treated as annuals ; at least, 
those of the G. picta type, and they are very free 
and extremely showy, including the double-flowered 
Lorenziana ; and it is only necessary to mention the 
double Helichrysums, as they are well known and 
furnish an abundance of bloom, but the seeds should he 
raised in a gentle heat. Seed of Hollyhocks, if sown 
soon and the young plants taken care of, will flower 
the same season ; but they should be planted out in 
good soil. The dwarf Rocket Larkspurs are easily 
grown, as the seeds grow freely when sown in the open 
ground. Marigolds of the African and French types 
are frequently objected to on the ground that their 
perfume is so pronounced ; but they are among the 
freest of annuals. The double Ranunculus Marigold and 
especially the orange-striped Meteor must not be 
omitted, as it will flower right up to mid-winter if the 
weather be fine and open. Then there are the Sweet 
Peas in great and excellent variety, but they should be 
sown thinly and in good ground, picking off the decay¬ 
ing flowers so that they do not seed, and then they 
will go on blooming until August. "What showy annuals 
the large-flowered Salpiglossis are ! So richly marked 
are the Convolvulus-like flowers that they may be 
denominated the Orchids among hardy annuals. Then 
there are the double Scabious, which make good annuals 
if sown early ; the tall and dwarf Sunflower ; the white, 
yellow and purple Sweet Sultans ; and to windup with 
a good foliage plant, the striped Japanese Maize. All 
the foregoing are what I term satisfying plants, that 
are persistent bloomers. 
Of tender annuals there may be added: Asters, 
especially the Victoria, the Quilled and Boltze’s Dwarf 
Bouquet, Phlox Drummondii grandiflora in variety, 
and especially that grand vermilion variety, Splendens; 
and Ten-week German Stocks. 
I have named nothing but what is cheap and good. 
It would not be difficult' to compile a second list of 
equal length and value ; my aim has been to indicate 
what amateurs and cottagers can grow and be delighted 
with. 
Respecting those in the foregoing list that may be 
sown in the open ground, I cannot do better than 
make an extract from Messrs. Sutton & Sons’ book on 
the flower garden. They direct that “The seeds 
should be sown on a carefully prepared surface, from 
which large stones and clods have been removed ; but 
it should not be so fine as that the rain will make it 
pasty. Sow thinly, cover with a very slight coat of 
fine dry earth—the smallest seeds needing but a mere 
dusting to cover them ; and from the first keep the plants 
sufficiently thinned to prevent overcrowding, which 
weakens them, and tends to a poor instead of a bountiful 
bloom. The soil into which they are transplanted for 
blooming should be deeply dug, and well broken up, 
and, if at all poor, should be liberally manured. 
Spring-sown annuals are worthy of a better soil than 
they usually have allotted them, as well as more 
careful treatment. It is not well to sow earlier than 
March, or later than the middle of April. The most im¬ 
portant matter in the after culture is to keep the clumps 
well thinned ; for not only will the bloom of crowded 
plants be comparatively poor and brief, but by early 
and bold practice in thinning, the plants will become 
so robust, and cover such large spaces of ground with 
their ample leafage and well-developed flowers, as really 
to astonish people who think they know all about 
annuals, and who may have ventured, after much ill- 
treatment of them, to designate tjiem ‘fugacious and 
weedy. ’ ”— It. D. 
