March 26, 1887. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
471 
potted singly ; so I put some in 48’s, some in 32’s, 
others in 24’s and 16’s. The C. nivalis which bore 
the branching spike is in a 71-in. pot. One fine pseudo¬ 
bulb was put into it last spring, from which sprang two, 
one of which produced two fine spikes, and one of these 
branched about 15 ins. above the pot. The other 
pseudo-bulb produced one fine spike. The operation of 
potting is very simple ; the compost being on the bench 
well mixed together, the pots are carefully but not 
heavily crocked, and filled up nearly to the rim, shaking' 
in extra sand if required as the filling proceeds. Press 
the whole somewhat firmly ; then set the pseudo-bulb 
on and steady it with one hand, while with the other 
carefully pack round it the lumpy pieces of loam, peat, 
pieces of crock here and there set in edgeways, bits of 
moss and charcoal, beginning at the bulb and finishing 
at the rim of the pot. 
"When all is made firm, a pair of shears is used to 
trim off any loose material, and a sprinkling of sand is 
given over all. After this operation is completed, I 
set the pots in some out-of-the-way place in the stove 
where they get some light and can be easily seen. In 
the course of a week or ten days they can receive their 
first watering ; tliis is done with more than ordinary 
care, lest any of the compost should be displaced. 
They remain in this place perhaps a month, till active 
growth is apparent, when they are shifted into their 
proper growing quarters, which I will describe in 
another letter. In the meantime but little water must 
be given, beyond the first soaking just mentioned, or 
much damage may be done. 
We put the old pseudo-bulbs aside just now, as if 
we want to increase stock, some of them maybe useful, 
and in due time be potted up like the others ; but if 
not wanted for that purpose, then cast them away. 
The varieties that we grow are C. Yeitchii and C. 
V. superba, C. vestita oculata and C. v. rubro-oculata, 
(the latter having a very deep coloured eye), and C. 
nivalis. I have sent you a bulb of C. Yeitchii, Mr. 
Editor, as a specimen ; the flowers are gone, but that 
is not surprising, for the main spike was in bloom and 
exhibited at Southampton on the 9th of November.— 
N. Blandford. [We can fully endorse all that Mr. 
Blandford has said about the success he has attained in 
Calanthe culture, from two noble specimens of C. 
Veitehii which he sent us a few weeks ago. One had a 
pseudo-bulb 12-ins. in length, the lower and thicker part 
being 3-ins. long, exclusive of its neck; it had two flower- 
spikes, of which the basal one was over 4 ft. in length ; 
the flowers were nearly all gone from this spike, but a 
smaller one, from the side of the elongated upper part of 
the pseudo-bulb, was carrying a number of well-coloured 
flowers, thus producing a succession to those first 
developed. Another pseudo-bulb within, a shade of 
being equally good, also bore two spikes of flowers, 
of which the upper and later-developed one formed a 
direct continuation of the pseudo-bulb ; this, we pre¬ 
sume, is a less common occurrence than laterally- 
produced flower-stems. This latter pseudo-bulb is a 
noteworthy specimen of culture, from the fact that it 
has been produced from the slender top of a pseudo¬ 
bulb of last year, not exceeding 7 ins. in length in its 
present condition, although still quite fresh. The old 
pseudo-bulb of the other specimen is also good, and 
looks as if it would send out another growth, while two 
strong breaks are pushing from the young one. 
Nothing succeeds like success, and Mr. Blandford has 
hit the key-note admirably. —Ed.] 
( To be continued. ) 
How to Sow Very Small Seeds Evenly on the 
Surface of the Soil. —Many find it difficult to do 
this ; some advise mixing the seed with sand, but that 
does not help much. I have found the following plan 
perfectly successful. Take a piece of writing paper 
about the size of an oblong letter envelope, or better, 
perhaps, an envelope itself, bend it slightly so that 
the upper surface may form a hollow channel ; place 
the seed, in this channel, about midway, then hold the 
paper by one end in the left hand, the thumb on the 
upper surface, the lower surface resting on the fore and 
middle fingers separated from each other, the chan¬ 
nelled form of the paper being thus maintained. Then 
incline the other end of the paper slightly towards the 
surface of the soil on which the seed is to be sown, and 
with the forefinger of the right hand give a succession 
of gentle taps on the thumb of the left; this action 
will cause the seed to pass gradually down the paper, 
and over the lower edge, as sparingly as may be 
desired, by properly regulating the force and frequency 
of the taps, and so the seed may be sown as sparsely 
and as evenly as you may desire. I can thus make 
even the minute seed of the Tuberous Begonia fall on 
to the soil almost singly. The lower edge of the paper 
must be smooth and even, otherwise the passing of the 
seed over would be checked ; this is best secured by 
using an envelope.— F. H. Brett, Carsington Rectory, 
§ARDENING ffoTES FROM 
Scotland. 
_ ♦ 
♦ 
Fruit Trees. —In our district March set in with a 
severity which has not been surpassed all the winter ; 
snow fell over 3 ins. in depth, and vegetation generally 
above the snow line has suffered severely. Fortunately 
fruit trees on walls and elsewhere outside are yet so little 
advanced that we have no anxiety as to the safety of 
the crops. Apricots are barely showing the colour of 
their flowers, and all kinds of fruit promise well at 
present to yield abundant crops. Such weather as we 
have lately experienced is very trying for unheated 
structures; in positions where there is not shelter from 
easterly winds, with'the powerful sun we so frequently 
experience, it necessitates more than usual care in airing. 
Much damage is often done by opening unduly the front 
ventilators, with the view of retarding the crops, and 
if the trees are flowering, they are very liable to suffer 
from cutting winds. To ward off danger to some 
extent, a piece of scrim cloth, hexagon netting, or 
similar material may be tacked along the front venti- 
ation, which will break keen winds very effectually. 
Glass structures which have no artificial heat should 
be kept quite dry at night, and disbudding in such 
structures must be practised with great caution, as a 
check by fleecing the trees in a summary manner might 
prove disastrous to the crop ; such work should be 
done gradually and skilfully, so that every portion of 
the tree may be equal in growth. We have for more 
than twenty years picked out all superfluous wood buds 
before they had time to become a check to the trees 
and the usual quantity required for next year’s supply 
left. On gross and unripened trees we would retain as 
many as there was room for at present, and reduce the 
number later on in the season ; if such trees set freely 
they may be cropped heavily, which will reduce the 
gross habit to some extent. If no fruit of any value 
should set on such trees, they can be root-pruned 
judiciously in May or June. Such has long been our 
practice, and the promise [we have of good crops of 
fruit from well-ripened and healthy trees, conduces to 
our confidence in a system so frequently proved. 
Root-pruning has a very wide meaning, and the 
manner in which it is often performed does not create 
surprise at the non-success of some who do their best, 
but, in reality, the worst they could for the trees. The 
watering of fruit trees under glass unheated should be 
done only when absolutely necessary during such 
weather, and the water should not be cold almost to 
freezing, but 50° or more, and enough to reach 
all active roots. Cherries, Plums and Apricots will 
not suffer “ coddling,” but if an even temperature— 
from 40° to 45°—at night can be maintained they will 
he safe enough, so far as the temperature is concerned ; 
but healthy root action and pure air are indispensable 
to success. Aphis (black and green) may put in an 
appearance, even though every precaution by fumi¬ 
gating has been taken, and while the trees are in bloom 
it is not safe to fumigate, to eradicate vermin, without 
injuring the setting fruit; but tobacco powder, dusted 
by a pepper box among the young shoots affected, will 
check the Aphis till the fruit is safe.— Caledonian. 
Royal Horticultural Society of Aber¬ 
deen. —The prize schedule of this society for 1887 has 
just been issued, and will bear favourable comparison 
with those of former years. The chief feature is the 
series of Jubilee prizes to be competed for at the 
society’s summer show, which will be held in Aberdeen 
at the end of July. There are four prizes—viz., £12, 
£8, £6, and £4—which have been got up by the 
energetic chairman of the society, Town Councillor 
Lyon. The prizes are for the best table of horticultural 
produce, 13 ft. by 9 ft., arranged for effect, and the 
latitude thus allowed ought to secure a large compe¬ 
tition from all classes. The autumn show is fixed for 
September, when it is hoped Her Majesty the Queen 
may ’patronise the exhibition. The directors have 
resolved to make the shows of this year specially 
attractive in honour of the Queen’s Jubilee, and it is to 
be hoped their labours may meet with the success they 
so well deserve. 
North of Scotland Horticultural Asso¬ 
ciation. —The usual monthly meeting of the members 
of this association was held in the Christian Institute, 
Aberdeen, on Friday evening. There was a good 
attendance, and the president, Mr. Robson, occupied 
the chair. The business before the meeting was of a 
general character. The usual votes of thanks termi¬ 
nated the proceedings. 
The Am ateurs’ Garden. 
The Flower Garden. —The prospect here is not 
so bright and enlivening as we should expect, owing 
to an exceptionally severe winter, and by the recent 
occurrence of another severe snowstorm. On this 
account spring flowers are very late, and those recently 
flowering have been more or less destroyed. In these 
cases, where they have not yet made much progress 
above ground, we may reasonably hope for a fine 
display later on. Seasonable work would consist of 
digging up all beds that have not already been com¬ 
pleted, and the filling up of all vacancies that have 
occurred amongst spring-bedding plants during the 
winter. Carnations and Pinks should be planted out 
immediately, together with Pansies and bedding Violas, 
whenever the weather becomes sufficiently mild ; all 
beds that are edged or intended to be so with hardy 
plants, can now be put in order before the great hurry 
of work begins. A point in good management, that 
should not be overlooked, is to keep the walks and 
lawns clean and tidy ; a matter that requires constant 
attention, and repays the trouble by improving the 
general appearance. They should be well rolled now 
as often as convenient. 
Rose Pruning. —All Roses out-of-doors should now 
he pruned and made tidy before growth has made much 
progress, otherwise the flowering season will be late, 
and the buds will not, in some instances, be so strong 
as desirable. Where Roses are desired in quantity late 
in _the season, we have known instances where late 
pruning was productive of a great quantity in autumn, 
while those that were pruned in the proper season were 
over, or nearly so. Flowers are produced at the apex of 
the shoots of the current season's growth, so that the 
amateur pruner need have no fear of cutting away the 
flower buds in the operation. 
Standard Roses are, as a rule, very popular with 
amateurs, and as susceptible of injury as any in the 
matter of pruning. In the first place, before cutting 
the head at all, study its shape, so that when pruned it 
may be perfectly symmetrical, or as nearly so as possible. 
Cut out all weak or useless wood, which would by being 
left be productive of harm in overcrowding the bush to 
the detriment of the strong and useful shoots from 
which flowers are to be expected. Cut back the 
stronger branches for two-thirds of their length, and in 
doing so, be careful to prune close to a bud, so that no 
unsightly snags (caused by the dying back of portions 
above the bud) be left. 
Hybrid Perpetuals should be shortenedback according 
to their strength, the weak shoots being cut close to the 
base. This will cause them to break stronger than if 
they were left at greater length. Strong branches may 
be left 6 ins. or 8 ins. long, as they require less 
encouragement to develop strongly. The old Cabbage 
or Provence Roses stand close pruning, while Moss 
Roses may be shortened back, or the shoots pegged 
down almost their full length, when they are calculated 
to give a greater return of bloom. Roses trained to 
pillars or stakes require thinning out of all old stems to 
make room for vigorous young wood. Tea Roses require 
no iiruning beyond cutting out dead wood, and 
shortening back the unripened shoots that mostly get 
killed during winter. 
Watering, Airing and Protecting. —Notwith¬ 
standing the advancement of the season and the desir¬ 
ability of getting all kinds of plants well forwarded, 
great care must be exercised not to over-water, those 
things especially that have been recently potted up 
from their storage pots, or old plants that have been 
shaken out and re-potted. Great harm is often done 
to such plants, especially where a good brisk tempera¬ 
ture is not kept up to start them ; the soil gets sour 
and the roots crippled, from which it takes them a long 
time to recover, if they do not succumb. 
Very little airing will be necessary in the case of 
newly-potted plants until they have fairly taken to 
the soil, but even then it may be desirable to keep them 
close where there is little or no command of artificial 
heat, till the sun gets stronger. Where plants have 
now been consigned to cold frames, that were housed in 
more comfortable quarters during winter, the frames 
must be well covered up with dry mats at night to 
exclude frost and prevent injury to the young develop¬ 
ing leaves, as they are much more susceptible of damage 
in spring than in autumn.— F. 
