518 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
April 16, 1887. 
NEW PLANTS CERTIFICATED 
By the Floral Committee of the E. H. S. 
April 12th, 18S7. 
Cypribedium leuciorrhodum. 
The bright green, broad foliage of this new hybrid 
gives the plant a robust and vigorous appearance, 
resembling that of C. grande, itself a hybrid. The 
upper sepal is pale blush ; the petals white or almost 
so at the base, with the upper half of a soft rose tint ; 
the labellum is large pale rose, suffused with white and 
pale yellow at the orifice of the pouch. It is a hybrid 
between C. Roezlii and C. Schlimi albiflorum. Exhi¬ 
bited by Messrs. Yeitch & Sons. 
Amaryllis. 
Nonpareil. — The flowers of this variety are of 
medium size, carried horizontally and almost regular 
in outline. They are of an intense almost uniform 
crimson-scarlet with the exception of a short green 
stripe at the base of each segment. An ideal florists’ 
flower. 
Edith M. 'Wynne. —The broad segments of the flowers 
of this exceedingly pretty variety recurve upwards, 
which has the effect of showing it off to best advantage. 
They have a broad white margin, passing into scarlet 
of different shades of intensity, giving the flowers a 
somewhat flamed appearance. Exhibited by Messrs. 
Yeitch & Sons. 
Cattleya T'riant; Schroder.®. 
The pseudo-bulbs of this fine variety are short, and 
proportionately very broad or stout. The flowers are 
large, but are rendered most conspicuous by the 
labellum, which is pale rosy purple with a large golden 
blotch in the throat, and by its. great breadth gives 
character and value to the whole flower. The sepals 
are blush, while the broad petals are some shades 
darker. Exhibited by Mr. Ballantyne, gardener to 
Baron Schroder. 
Odontoglossum Pescatorei virginalis. 
Under this name a new and exceedingly chaste 
variety of this well-known Odontoglot was shown 
bearing two well-flowered spikes. The sepals, petals 
and labellum were of the purest white, with the excep¬ 
tion of the labellum which had a pale yellow crest. In 
the best forms previously seen there are purple markings 
more or less conspicuous on the basal half occupied by 
the crest. 0. P. Veitchiana was also exhibited by 
Mr. Ballantyne, gardener to Baron Schroder. 
Odontoglossum crispum, Thompson’s variety. 
A fine raceme of flowers (the individuals of which 
were of considerable size) was borne by the plant 
shown. The flowers were pure white, marked with a 
few very large reddish brown blotches on both sepals, 
petals and labellum. The petals were of great size, 
clawed, triangular, and deeply jagged or cut at the 
margin. Exhibited by Mr. Stevens, gardener to 
W. Thomson, Esq., Walton, Stone, Staffordshire. 
Adiantum cuneatum, Gordon’s variety. 
The fronds of this variety assumed a fine drooping 
habit, gracefully sweeping all round the pot in which 
it was growing. In general appearance they resembled 
those of A. c. grandiceps, being furnished with a tassel 
or crest at the apex. The pinnules or ultimate seg¬ 
ments, however, are smaller, giving the whole frond a 
more delicate appearance. Exhibited by Messrs. 
Gordon & Sons, florists, Haymarket, Edinburgh. 
Cineraria, Alexander Warwick. 
In this form we have rather a striking novelty in the 
shape of stalked ray florets to the flower-head. The 
lamina of these florets is a very dark crimson, inclined 
to maroon, while the stalks or elongated tubes are rose- 
coloured. The centre of the flower-heads was small and 
deep purple, while the whole plant was unusually 
dwarf, not exceeding 10 ins. in height. Exhibited by 
Messrs. Gordon & Sons, Haymarket, Edinburgh. 
Double Cineraria, William Pratt. 
The flower-heads of this garden form are almost 
globular and deep blue. Being one of. the so-called 
double varieties, the florets of both disk and ray are 
developed in a remarkable manner, so that what are 
called flowers in popular language appear like a series 
of globose or semi-globose masses terminating the 
branches of the inflorescence. The plants themselves 
were about 15 ins. high. Exhibited by Mr. Pratt, 
Longleat Gardens, Warminster. 
Pose, R, minutifolia alba. 
The specimen of this Rose shown was, indeed, a 
veritable pigmy, not exceeding 3 ins. to 4 ins. in height, 
bearing numerous small, white, open flowers, almost 
hiding the diminutive leaves. It is described as a 
Pedigree Seedling Polyantha Rose. Exhibited by 
Mr. H. Bennet, Shepperton. 
Rose, Golden Fairyl 
This form is altogether larger than the last-named, 
but did not much exceed 10 ins. in height. The 
flowers are altogether of a different shape from those of 
R. minutifolia alba, more compact, and in the bud or 
half-expanded state are quite charming, and would be 
exceedingly useful as button-hole flowers. They are 
of a coppery yellow rather than golden yellow, at 
least, under the present conditions. The leaves are 
larger than in the former named variety. Exhibited 
by ilr. H. Bennet, Shepperton. 
Rose, The Puritan. 
This is one of Mr. Bennett’s Pedigree Roses which is' 
coming well to the front in the United States. It was 
raised between Devoniensis and Mabel Morrison, and 
the flowers are large, white and well-formed, and the 
foliage deep shining green. Exhibited by Messrs. W. 
Paul & Son, Waltham Cross, for Mr. Evans, of 
Philadelphia, U.S.A. See p. 522. 
Yiolet, Yictorta. 
In this new Yiolet we have a different shade of colour 
from that usually prevailing amongst the favourite cul¬ 
tivated forms. The flowers are rather large, fully 
double, with numerous petals, and of a deep violet 
colour with the exception of a very small eye, which, 
however, is hidden, or almost so. The foliage is small 
and deep green. A group, of considerable size, of well- 
flowered plants was exhibited by Mr. J. Chambers, 
Spring Grove, Isleworth. 
Auriculas. 
Abbe Lizst {Douglas). — Amongst a group of 
Auriculas shown, this green-edged variety stood out 
conspicuously. The tube is clear yellow, the paste 
pure, and the edge a bright lively green. 
Sir William Hewett.— This is a deep maroon- 
coloured self, with good paste and bright tube. Both 
were exhibited by Mr. J. Douglas, gardener to F. 
Whitbourn, Esq., Great Gearies, Ilford. 
Narcissus cyclamineus. 
The forms of N. calathinus are both numerous and 
varied, and the long cylindrical corona of that under 
notice constitutes it as very distinct from the typical 
wide and short cupped corona of N. calathinus. The 
corona spreads somewhat at the mouth, while the 
linear segments of the perianth are closely reflexed like 
those of a Cyclamen. The whole flower is yellow, and 
pretty amongst those of its section. Exhibited by 
Messrs. Barr & Son. 
Cyclamen, Queen of Crimsons. 
The flowers of this variety were a fine deep crimson, 
with the segments of the corolla broad, blunt, and 
somewhat toothed at the margin. The reniform leaves 
are of good substance, with reddish petioles and the 
principal nerves, and marbled above with pale grey 
markings. Exhibited by Mr. John Odell, Florist, 
Gould’s Green, Hillingdon, Middlesex. 
--- 
ROSE CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 
[A paper read by Mr. Clarke, foreman, Calderstone 
Gardens, Liverpool, before the members of the Liver¬ 
pool Horticultural Association, and for ivhich lie 
was awarded the prize and certificate offered by the 
society for the best paper on this subject. The 
competition was open to under-gardeners only.] 
Where Rose-growing is followed with spirit, there is, 
in most cases, a house entirely devoted to them, and 
under these circumstances, if well managed, blooms 
can be cut from Christmas until the end of June. The 
house, to accomplish this, should be of moderate size— 
that is, capable of accommodating several dozens of 
plants in pots, and at least two dozen planted in beds 
and borders. 
The most suitable house is a span-roofed structure 
running north and south, with liberal ventilation at 
the top. The sides should be formed of sashes 2 ft. or 
3 ft. deep, made to swing on a hinge at the top, and 
worked by means of a lever. Three rows of 4-in. hot- 
water pipes, run all round the house, will be found 
sufficient. A stage of lattice-work, 3 ft. or 4 ft. wide, 
should be arranged round the sides and ends of the 
house for pot plants. For the central part of the house 
a bed should be made in which to plant out the Roses, 
and for this purpose a wall 4 ft. high should be built, 
running parallel with the sides and ends of the house. 
The path should be 4 ft. wide, and formed of ashes, 
which are preferable to slates or flags, for they retain 
more moisture and keep the house cooler ; they can be 
kept clean by raking. 
Propagating.— For inside I prefer plants on their 
own roots, and propagated at the end and beginning of 
the year. In February, or as soon as cuttings can be 
obtained, a hot-bed should be prepared, and the cutting 
pots plunged in it when it is certain thatthe temperature 
will not rise above SO 0 . At that period of the year 
cuttings can be obtained from early forced plants. 
Growths that have flowered will do very well, but others 
about half-ripened are preferable. If the cuttings have 
two joints, those will be ample ; and both leaves should 
be left attached. The cuttings can either be inserted, 
a number together in 5-in. pots, or singly in thumbs 
that have been filled with sandy soil. The last I re¬ 
commend, because when once rooted they can be grown 
on without checking them in their early stages, as is 
the ease when a number are rooted together. The 
uppermost eye of the cutting only should be left above 
the soil or surfacing of sand. 
A good watering should be given after insertion, and 
the pors plunged in a hand-light or frame arranged on 
the hot-bed. The cuttings should be shaded from 
strong sun, and sprinkled lightly with the syringe on 
fine mornings, and in about three weeks they will have 
commenced the formation of roots. 
Autumn Propagating.— The month of August is 
generally chosen for cool propagation. Boxes should 
be prepared by placing a few large crocks over the 
holes for drainage, and over these a thin layer of the 
roughest compost, the box should then be filled within 
1 in. of the rim with a fine compost, consisting of two 
parts loam to one part each of leaf-soil and silver sand; 
this should be made firm and the surface covered with 
a thin layer of dry sand. 
Cuttings of half-ripened wood, 4 to 6 ins. in length, 
should have two or three of the bottom leaves removed, 
but not the leaf-buds in their axils. These should 
be dibbled in 8^ ins. apart, made quite firm and 
thoroughly watered. The boxes should be placed in a 
cold frame with a northern aspect, where they can 
remain until spring. They will need very little atten¬ 
tion, but must not be forgotten, as the compost may 
become dry—requiring water. Boxes are preferable to 
dibbling the cuttings into outside borders and placing 
frames over them, as nearly every cutting will strike, 
whereas in borders they are less certain. Should the 
frame be required for other purposes the boxes can be 
removed, while the frame cannot be dispensed with when 
placed over those in outside borders. Those inserted 
in autumn will be potted and growing vigorously before 
spring cuttings are rooted. When no facilities for 
outside-llose culture exists, those raised from cuttings 
in autumn will assist in keeping up a supply of bloom 
from June to October, just when outside plants should 
be yielding a bountiful supply of flowers. 
Compost.— Good fibry loam of a heavy texture is 
most suitable. Two parts of the compost should 
consist of loam, the remainder of leaf-soil and cow- 
dung in equal parts, to which may be added a 6-in. 
potful of fine bones to two barrow-loads of the compost. 
When the soil is light in texture, clay should be 
dried and reduced to powder, and added in proportion 
to its lightness ; or, on the other hand, if too heavy and 
likely to become sour, horse-droppings, charcoal and 
coarse sand should be mixed with it. Sandstone, 
broken moderately fine, in such cases, may be used 
with advantage to keep the soil open. The compost 
should be used in a moderately moist condition, that 
is, not so wet as to stick to the fingers when handled, 
or so dry as to be easily rubbed fine. 
The compost for the beds or borders inside the house 
should be much rougher than that used for pots, 
pieces one-third of a foot square will not be too large, 
and a good sprinkling of 4-inch bones and broken 
charcoal should be incorporated with the soil, which 
should not be made too light and rich, or else pithy 
long-jointed wood will be the result, instead of firm 
sliort-jointed shoots. 
Planting.— Drainage is the first consideration, and 
a main drain should run along the centre of the bed, 
