June 4, 1887. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
631 
equal in size, and of a light cinnamon-brown. The 
large flat labellum is obovate-emarginate, or somewhat 
squarish, and slightly contracted at the middle ; it is 
of a rich crimson-lake, paler towards the margin, with 
a yellow blotch above the ridged disk. There is a 
curious tooth-like projection from each side of the 
white column. The species comes from Brazil, and 
flowered in the collection of W. Lee, Esq., Downside, 
Leatherhead, in October last .—Orchid Album, t. 272. 
Begonia cyclophylla. 
This is a tuberous-rooted Begonia, a native of South 
China that has been recently introduced from thence. 
The flower scapes are radical, about 6 ins. in height, 
bearing a branched cyme of delicately rose-coloured 
flowers of moderate size and deliciously scented, with 
an odour that has been compared to that of some 
species of Rose. This is strongest in a warm atmo¬ 
sphere just after they have become fully expanded. 
This quality is by no means common amongst the mass 
of Begonias now grown. The male flowers are 1 in. to 1J 
in. in diameter. The leaves are cordate-orbicular, deep 
green above, reddish beneath, and about 6 ins. in 
breadth .—Botanical Magazine, t. 6926. 
Ceropegia Monteiroai. 
Tubers of this curious climber were sent to Kew from 
Delagoa Bay, by Mrs. Monteiro, in 1884, having been 
collected about the rivers Congo and Angola, IV. Tropical 
Africa. The flowers are produced in lateral clusters of 
about three, and the corolla is 2 ins. to 3 ins. long, 
with a trumpet-shaped mouth. The tube is dull green, 
spotted with white and green on the upper part. The 
dome or canopy consists of five lobes that coalesce over 
the organs of the flower .—Botanical Magazine, t. 6927. 
Nannoriiops Ritchie an a. 
Under this name we have an ornamental fan-leaved 
Palm, reminding one somewhat of Channerops humilis, 
but differing botauically in having the style basal in 
fruit and the perisperm not ruminated, whereas in 
Chamaerops the style is terminal and the perisperm 
ruminated. There is only one species of Nannorhops, 
native of some parts of India, Afghanistan, Beloo- 
chistan and southern Persia. Numerous stems are 
produced from creeping rhizomes, forming tufts, and 
these bear cuneate fan-shaped leaves with numerous 
bifid segments. Abundance of seeds have been im¬ 
ported by Surgeon-Major Aitchison, and it is hoped we 
shall soon have an abundance of plants. Bidletino 
della B. Societd Toscana di Hortieultura, 1887, t. 3. 
Anthurium splendiduji. 
It is to be regretted that this splendid Anthurium 
has proved as yet difficult to cultivate, requiring great 
heat and moisture to induce it to make good growth 
and a presentable appearance. The leaves are deeply 
heart-shaped, with the blade suspended from the 
petiole, and are strongly rugose all over, after the 
manner of the spathe of A. Andreanum, but having 
the elevations and depressions closely aggregated and 
very numerous. The nerves are of a deeper lustrous 
green than the rest. The spathe is whitish tinted with 
rose, but not very showy. The species was introduced 
from meridianal south America by Mr. W. Bull, of 
Chelsea .—Balletina della E. Societd Toscana di Horti- 
cultura, 1887, t. 4. 
Ajiaeaboya princeps. 
The generic name given by Linden to this new genus 
of Melastomacese is furnished by Amaraboye, the native 
name of the plant in New Granada. Three species are 
grown on the Continent, of which A. princeps is the 
most remarkable, and bears terminal cymes of flowers 
of a uniform red-carmine, with twelve to fifteen large 
white stamens arranged very conspicuously in a circle 
round the centre. These flowers are 10 centimetres in 
diameter, or very close upon 4 ins., and resemble those 
of a single Pieony considerably. The leaves are deep 
green above, three-nerved, reddish crimson beneath, 
and very handsome.— L’Illustration Horticole, 5 ser. /., 
t. 4. 
Impatiens Hawkeri. 
This Balsam is one of the most important introduc¬ 
tions of last year, and differs from the now almost uni¬ 
versally-cultivated I. Sultani, in the greater size of its 
flowers and leaves, together wdth the fine bronzy or 
metallic red polished stems. The flowers are rich dark 
carmine, with a white eye surrounded by a pale bluish 
tint. The spur is greatly elongated, recurved and red. 
If it flower moderately freely it will be a great acqui¬ 
sition in gardens. Mr. W. Bull received it from the 
South Sea Islands, where it was discovered by Lieutenant 
Hawker, whose name it commemorates.— L'Illustration 
Horticole, 5 ser. I., t. 2. 
Hardening ffoTES from 
Chrysanthemums. —We are well supplied with 
hints as how to do these plants well, and to have blooms 
large and in great abundance. There has been no lack 
of information for many years past on the chief 
cultural points 'which lead to real success ; still, we 
often hear friends and others complain that their 
plants do not bloom well, and are very late and inferior 
to what they see elsewhere. The main causes of dis¬ 
appointment may be found, first, in coddling the 
plants during the propagating period and earlier stages 
of growth, and then stopping to make them bushy till 
it is too late for flowering growths to be formed. Then 
we often notice the stock of plants placed in such 
positions where they can only have a minimum of light, 
it being sometimes believed that shading is really 
essential to success. In northern and late districts we 
do not care about stopping the shoots after May, and 
if they are grown without being stopped at all, fine 
flowers in abundance may be expected. 
The earlier-flowering class for planting out, as well 
as for pot culture, are invaluable till the main batches 
of plants come in at the end of October or early in 
November. Means for protection from early frosts are 
worth all the trouble which they entail. Last season 
we only stopped our general stock of plants once, and 
many of them not at all ; we never were better satisfied 
with our returns, and they bloomed till the middle of 
January. We have now about 200 plants placed in 
the full sun, for such is necessary in our district.—■ 
Caledonian. 
Bedding. —The bedding season is now on, and 
where the beds are not filled with bulbs and other 
spring and early decorative plants, such weather as we 
now enjoy (nearly 70° in the shade, May 24th) may 
prompt many to get the spaces filled, as expeditiously 
as possible, with the occupants which are to bloom 
throughout the season. It is much better to have such 
plants under the protection of a frame, where a 
covering of mats, frigi domo, or some other material 
may be thrown over them. If they are turned out of 
the pots, allowed to grow steadily, and lifted to the 
bed or borders with roots entire during the early part 
of June, much will be gained both in growth of plants 
and inflorescence. Stunted plants under the best of 
circumstances are long in starting into growth. Often 
in tenacious soil the plants are placed in the usual way, 
but weeks pass before any roots take hold of such soil, 
and much of the season is lost before a start is made ; 
a handful of rich light soil placed round the roots of 
each plant in the process of planting, does much to aid 
them into free growth. — Caledonian. 
Shrubs after Blooming.— It may not be in¬ 
opportune to make some reference to early-flowering 
shrubs, and the attention they require after blooming. 
Many kinds are now past, while others are at their 
best, and numbers are on the way for a succession of 
bloom. A good collection of flowering shrubs—both 
deciduous and evergreen—in pleasure grounds are 
objects of the most pleasure-giving and desirable cha¬ 
racter. As examples, fine plants of the various shades 
of Ribes, Berberis, Cherries, Lilacs, Crabs, &c., well 
arranged among deep-coloured evergreens where the 
flowering kinds show themselves unmolested, cannot 
fail to give the most pleasing effect; but it often 
happens that these are allowed gradually to develop 
themselves till they form something like a petty jungle. 
Fine effect, under such circumstances, is crippled or 
gone altogether. 
When the shrubs have flowered and are starting into 
fresh growth, from which one anticipates a floral 
display next year, it may be necessary to go over each 
shrub individually with the knife, cutting away any 
branches which are unduly taking the lead or encum¬ 
bering their fellows—not to make formal or unnatural 
objects of the shrubs or trees, but to keep them to the 
limits desired and the size which may be deemed 
suitable to the position. Plants showing their indi¬ 
vidual proportions, and allowed to have free air and 
light about them, are likely to flower more abundantly 
than those which are crowded and permitted to grow 
out of form. By waiting till the plants make their 
growth before pruning is destruction to bloom.— 
Caledonian. 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
Kitchen Garden.— In dry weather keep the hoe at 
work to kill weeds and loosen the soil round all growing 
crops ; this will promote a healthy condition of the 
plants, by lessening evaporation till the plants cover 
the ground, shading it from the sun and preventing 
excessive evaporation. When through stress of other 
work weeds have been allowed to become numerous, 
and should showery weather succeed, it will be neces¬ 
sary to rake them off as the work proceeds, otherwise 
they will take fresh root and establish themselves again 
in a very short time. Endeavour at all seasons to 
prevent them running to seed and so save a great deal 
of additional labour. 
Thinning the Crops. —Attention must be paid to 
this before the seedlings become too crowded, otherwise 
they become stunted and drawn at the outset, and 
never attain their proper size and development. 
Great size is not always a desideratum, and growers 
should be guided accordingly ; but good, well-formed 
bulbs and roots cannot be obtained unless sufficient 
space is allowed for a proper exposure of the foliage 
and for root development. Carrots, except the Short 
Horn varieties, and Parsnips require from 4 ins. to 
6 ins. between each plant in the row, some growers give 
a greater distance, but for table purposes the distances 
given will meet the requirements if the ground is 
properly manured and otherwise well tilled. They are 
not always allowed this distance, especially when grown 
in lines, but then a large percentage are unfit for use. 
Beet-root requires 6 ins. or 9 ins. between each plant. 
Onions keep best when grown of a medium size and 
well ripened, but to obtain bulbs ranging from A lb. to 
1 lb. in weight they must be sown on rich soil, in lines 
12 ins. apart and 6 ins. between each plant. Market 
growers often economise space and only give them half 
these distances. Under favourable conditions fair-sized 
bulbs can be grown even at the above distances ; but 
seeing that labour is always of some material conse¬ 
quence in private gardens, the lines should be sown 
sufficiently far apart to admit of the hoe being run 
down between them to kill weeds. 
Potatos are now advancing rapidly in the open air, 
and should, therefore, be earthed up immediately, if 
not already done. Before this, however, see that they 
have been properly cleaned. Attention now in that 
respect will save much extra labour in cleaning before 
the crop is fit to lift. Those who planted early, on hot¬ 
beds, will now be able to use young tubers. 
Bedding-out. —No time should now be lost in 
having all the bedding plants, except the tenderest, 
removed to their summer quarters. If all plans and 
arrangements have been drawn up, and calculations 
made beforehand as to the number of plants required 
for any given design, no waste of time will be occasioned 
now, and no disappointment for want of material. 
Prudent amateurs and gardeners commence their calcu¬ 
lations for new and other designs long previous, and, 
in fact, frequently in autumn -when the new stock of 
cuttings is being made. Taking it for granted that 
plans and plants are all in readiness, the beds and 
borders must be thoroughly prepared for the reception 
of the latter. Spring bedding plants, except in par¬ 
ticular cases, should now be removed to the reserve 
garden, and inserted in lines, breaking up such things 
as Daisies, Aubrietias, Arabis and Myosotis, where 
stock is required. These should be planted at once, 
and -watered, not allowing half to get destroyed 
before they are protected from the killing effects of 
drought. Stress of work may be advanced in 
excuse for such conduct, but it is very bad economy, 
and no good gardener would allow it. After 
removing everything except perhaps the latest¬ 
flowering and double Tulips, manure those beds 
where the plants to be grown in them during summer 
w'ould be benefited by it. This is most necessary where 
the soil is light and sandy, otherwise in ground well- 
manured in autumn, none will now be required for 
such things as Pelargoniums, Nasturtiums, Lobelias, 
Fuchsias and similar things. Pelargoniums should 
not be encouraged to grow' too grossly, otherwise they 
flower badly. Having dug, or forked, and raked the 
beds, measure off the lines and spaces for the plants 
intended to be grown. The requisite number of plants 
may then be conveyed to the beds, where due respect 
must be made to the size and height of the plants as 
f 
COTLAND 
