June 11, 1887. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
647 
of the roots, is productive of growth of noble dimen¬ 
sions, the leaves, borne on stout stems, resembling 
those of Rhubarb. 
Cheiraxthus alpinus.— On the new rockery at 
Devonhurst, Chiswick, this showy alpine maintains its 
beauty as a spring flower. The soft sulphur-yellow 
sweet-scented blossom is very different from that of 
the ordinary Wallflower, while the dwarf habit alone 
entitles it to a place in the flower-garden. C. 
oehroleuca is distinguished by its procumbent, not 
erect stems. 
Saxifraga Huetti. —Seeds of this plant were sent 
to the Royal Horticultural Society’s garden, Chiswick, 
some years ago from the Continent. We have else¬ 
where seen it under the name of S. Sibthorpii. The 
reniform, delicate green, rather brittle leaves are 
shallowly lobed or coarse toothed ; the flowers are 
bright yellow and freely produced on brittle stems, 
2 ins. to 3 ins. in height, and look fine in a mass. In 
a damp situation it seeds readily, and maintains itself 
from year to year, although only an annual. 
Viola pedunculata. —Altogether we have in this 
species a very distinct plant, that merits a place in any 
collection of hardy plants for rock work. It is so grown 
at Joldwynds, Dorking, Surrey, and has heart-shaped 
leaves and golden yellow flowers, with a brown eye and 
suffused with brown externally. 
-- 
STRAWBERRY PLANTS FOR 
FORCING. 
The time will soon he at hand when steps must be 
taken to prepare plants for next years’ forcing, and I 
think most of your practical readers will agree with me 
that what is really required is a stout and well-matured 
crown in each pot. Provided these are obtained, w 7 ith 
ordinary care and attention, good results are almost 
certain to follow. We generally commence layering 
in the first or second week of July—in fact, immediately 
good stout runners are obtainable, and from the very 
first we use good soil. I have seen plants layered in 
any kind of old potting soil, but on turning them out 
of the pots I have never found the roots to be so strong 
and vigorous as when they have been placed in a good 
rich compost. There are various ways of layering, 
some people prefer putting them direct into their 
fruiting pots, wdiile others use squares of turf. We 
generally use 60-size pots, as we find this plan to 
answer our purposes remarkably well. The pots are 
filled with soil to within ^ in. of the top, and taken to 
beds from whence the layers are procured, and which are 
tightly fastened with a peg. We select from six to 
eight of the best of the runners from each plant, and 
all the superfluous ones are at once removed. 
As soon as the pots are filled with roots sufficiently 
to support themselves independently of the old plants, 
we then cut them oft’, and remove them to a shady 
position, syringing them twice daily if the weather is 
dry and hot. Potting them into their fruiting pots 
is the next matter to be taken in hand. If for 
early forcing 48’s will probably be the most suitable 
size, but, as a rule, 32's will be found the best for 
later purposes. The soil we use is a moderately heavy 
loam, and we add to it a sprinkling of soot and either 
horse or cow-droppings at the rate of one barrowful to 
five of loam. All the plants receive a thorough 
drenching with water before potting them, so that no 
more watering is necessary for a few days, excepting 
what little they receive when syringing them. 
We pot the plants very firm, and place them behind 
a north wall, until they have sufficiently recovered to 
withstand the rays of the sun without flagging. We 
then remove them to an open position, where the 
plants have the full benefit of the sun and air, and we 
allow 1 ft. between each plant, so that they have 
plenty of room to develop themselves. All runners 
are removed as fast as they appear, and also any side- 
shoots that may make their appearance, thus leaving 
the one crown. In conclusion I would remark, that 
on no consideration should the plants be allowed to 
receive a check through dryness at the roots, or 
what is probably worse still, be watered with cold 
pump water after a hot day. For it is just possible if 
they are so watered and the autumn proves mild, that 
many will commence throwing up their flower spikes. 
To keep them going steadily is our plan, and we find 
it answer.— H. Markham, Mereworth Castle. [Our 
correspondent preaches what he practices, and is an 
adept in Strawberry forcing. A sample of his Sir 
Charles Napiers, to hand last week, was the finest 
we have seen this season.—E d.] 
Hardening ffoTES from 
COTLAND. 
Scottish Horticultural Association. —The 
ordinary monthly meeting of this Association was held 
on Tuesday night at 5, St. Andrew Square, Edinburgh, 
the president, Mr. D. P. Laird, in the chair. Mr. A. 
Hutton, F.L.S., Royal Bank, Dundee, read a paper on 
“ The Iris,” remarking that the family of the plant 
was not far removed from that of the Orchid, and that, 
in some respects, it even surpassed that aristocratic 
family of plants. Alter alluding to the geographical 
distribution, their method of fertilisation through 
insect agency was described. Tho Iris was said to 
afford a special field for the liybridiser, and with refer¬ 
ence thereto the close connection between botanical 
science and the gardener’s art was specially referred to. 
Several other branches of the Iridacese were also 
remarked upon, sketches of the history of the Gladiolus 
aud the Crocus having been given. Several members 
expressed their opinions on the paper, the chairman 
hinting that he was glad to hear what Mr. Hutton said 
about the Orchids ; because, there was no question, 
that Orchids had been made rather much of recently, 
while the Iris and other herbaceous plants have been 
neglected. A hearty vote of thanks was awarded Mr. 
Hutton. 
Mr. John M’Hattie, Newhattle Abbey, made a com¬ 
munication on “The Culture of Peaches under Glass.” 
Numerous suggestions were thrown out as to the 
successful cultivation of Peaches, Mr. M’Hattie express¬ 
ing himself strongly in favour of culture under glass as 
against out-door culture. He was cordially thanked 
for his paper. The secretary, Mr. Robertson Munro, 
drew attention to a number of interesting exhibits 
which were shown. 
The tenth annual report of the Association, having 
been printed, was laid on the table. The council had 
pleasure in stating that the various objects for which 
the Association existed had continued to make satis¬ 
factory progress. During the session thirteen papers 
were read on interesting and important subjects, and 
thirty-four new members had been added to the roll. 
Twenty-five exhibits were placed by various members 
on the table. Three Certificates were granted to new 
varieties of plants. The Chrysanthemum Show, held 
under the auspices of the Association, in November, 
might be considered as a new departure, and was a 
complete success. 
Dumfries Horticultural Improvement 
Association —The monthly meeting of this associ¬ 
ation was held on June 2nd, Mr. M’Creath in the 
chair. Mr. M’Kenzie, Maxwell Street, on behalf of 
Mr. Masson, The Gardens, Mayfield, Dundee, read a 
paper on the Camellia. He fully described its history 
and introduction into this country from China and 
Japan, and showed with much clearness the great use¬ 
fulness of its flowers during a season of the year when 
cut flowers, now so much in demand, are scarcest. Mr. 
Masson's remarks on the general cultivation of the 
Camellia were full and comprehensive, showing that 
practical observation had been the guide on which he 
based his remarks. 
Strawberry Forcing. —For an early crop of 
good Strawberries, such as would give a fair recompense 
to the cultivator—say early in March—one must make 
an early start in late districts if success is to be 
attained. I have seen poor puny crops of fruit grown 
in pots almost as late in the season as the period when 
out-door fruits ought to be ready for use ; and the 
reason for this is patent to any casual observer, viz. : 
late runners grown where the sun could not have full 
maturing power on the plants. If runners can be rooted 
in small pots during this month (June), and potted 
firmly early in July, placed in the full sun, and 
well supplied with tvater at the roots and overhead till 
growth is free and healthy, there need be no difficulty 
in having plants of such size and firmness as should 
meet every expectation. An evil which is to be guarded 
against is allowing the roots to run through the bottom 
of the pots into the ashes, gravel, or whatever they are 
stood upon. The ripening of the crowns does not take 
place and flower buds cannot form perfectly. We have 
here fine runners of such kinds as Vicomtesse Hericart 
de Thury, President and Sir Joseph Paxton, from 
plants put in during the early part of September. A 
nice little crop is showing on these plants, but their 
chief value is in supplying early runners. The two 
first-named are among the best we have seen in the 
north, both for outside supplies and for forcing under 
glass. They are this season, and have been for some 
years all that we could desire. Any plants which have 
been forced may be planted out in well-enriched land 
during this month, and next year they ought to be of 
the highest excellence. — Caledonian. 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
Pelargoniums.— Despite their universal cultivation, 
and the fact that some places are overdone with them, 
they are essentially the poor man’s flower, and respond 
to the care of the cottager as readily as to that of the 
nobleman’s gardener, who can command his thousands 
of square feet of glass. The variety of purposes to 
which they can be adapted, and their accommodating 
nature, enables them to be employed where other things 
would fail. Where large plants can be accommodated 
in winter, huge bushes can be put out in the early part 
of summer, which flower abundantly and impart a 
tropical effect to the garden at once. Not every 
amateur, however, is fortunate enough to possess the 
means of their accommodation ; consequently, large and 
old plants have to be destroyed or thrown away in 
autumn, at housing time, to prevent overcrowding. 
This difficulty may be overcome in another way, and 
might safely be attempted by those who desire variety 
but have little space at command. It is well known 
that the area of soil available for planting is greatly 
increased by piling up soil into mounds of any desired 
height, making rockeries or any other similarly- 
designed structure. In the case of Pelargoniums, a 
striking effect can be produced with a few barrowloads 
of soil. Make this up into conical mounds, which may 
be prevented from crumbling down by the use of neatly- 
arranged stones, blocks of wood, or boards, so as to he 
unobtrusive. Plant this sufficiently close with good- 
sized specimens, so that the whole mound may be com¬ 
pletely hidden after a little growth has taken place. 
Some may feel inclined to use a variety of colours for 
effect; but it is advisable to utilise one variety only, 
which will then appear as one huge specimen after the 
soil is complete^ hidden. Ivy-leaved varieties, single 
or double, are very appropriate, look exceedingly 
graceful as they hang down, and require little attention 
in the way of training, except pegging the shoots into 
their proper places until the mound is covered. Those 
who have not yet tried this method of culture will 
derive great satisfaction by giving it a trial. Objections 
may be made to watering; hut Pelargoniums flower 
most freely after being thoroughly started if they are 
kept on the dry side. 
The Rockery. —The early-flowering inhabitants of 
the rock garden are now displaying masses of bloom, 
and old established plants should not be disturbed, 
except trimming in such as are encroaching upon their 
neighbours to the destruction of the finer and choicer 
members of the latter. Crocuses, Snowdrops, and 
similar bulbs will now appear untidy from the grossness 
of their herbage, and it is a too common practice to cut 
this off, and wheel it away to the rubbish heap. This 
practice, however, is not only undesirable, but per¬ 
nicious and ruinous to the continued welfare of the 
corms and bulbs in question, weakening the plants, 
and causing the flowers to become smaller from year to 
year. A better practice is to tie the leaves up in a 
knot, and leave them till they have become thoroughly 
matured. If done with a reasonable amount of care, 
the knots are neither very conspicuous nor unsightly. 
Thoroughly clear away all weeds, top-dress where 
wanted, if this is not already done, and plant out 
reserve stuff to fill up all blanks. Newly obtained 
plants may also be planted out, and various things, 
such as surplus bedding plants, may in many cases be 
utilised to advantage. 
Asparagus. —Those who are ambitious enough, and 
have at command a piece of good garden ground, may 
grow their own Asparagus. The season is not yet quite 
over, and those who are fond of this vegetable may be 
tempted to continue cutting as long as good heads 
appear, but there is now less reason for this since 
autumn-planted Cabbages are now plentiful and good. 
Owing to the cold backward nature of the season, 
Broccoli has stood out longer than is usually the case. 
A good shoot should be left if possible to each stool of 
Asparagus, so as to ensure good ones next year, by thus 
strengthening the plant. All the small ones may also 
be left unless the bed is in any way overcrowded. Now 
is the time to apply a good top-dressing of salt, which 
will gradually he dissolved by rain, and carried down 
to the roots. Those in the vicinity of the sea may use 
seaweed to advantage, supplying both manure, salt and 
sand to the bed by an application of this material.— J. F. 
