September 3, 1887. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
7 
It is rather a remarkable circumstance, though not 
an unknown phenomenon to breeders, that one of the 
crosses with Talavera proved to be earlier than either 
of its parents. We observed on August 6th, two years 
since, that the bracts of the straw of Talavera growing 
alongside of this earl}’’ cross were still green and the 
ear unripe, when the straw and ear of the latter were 
both dead ripe ; so that this cross might have been 
already cut, harvested, thrashed, sent to market and 
the proceeds invested. Last year this same cross was 
harvested many days before the first field of early 
wheat that the writer met with in the same district; 
and this year, when he visited the plots (August 8th), 
there could be no doubt as to the permanence of the 
quality of the earlier matured crop. This earliest of 
English Wheats was at that time dead ripe, as well as 
the Talavera that the experimenters had sown by its 
side for the sake of comparison ; but the former had 
evidently ripened much earlier than the latter, and 
we were informed that the difference between the old 
and new early varieties, gave the latter an advantage 
of not less than twelve days. 
We offer this as one example of the results which 
have been attained by this enterprising firm, con¬ 
sequent on several years of skilful and patient breed¬ 
ing. There are others well worth notice, and not less 
important than those we have just recorded. But 
there will be no seed for sale at present, and our 
further report may therefore be delayed without in¬ 
convenience. As to hastening its maturity, we must 
remember that Wheat in America, sown in spring, is 
a much shorter-lived plant than in this country, and 
the bread-corn of America is of such quick habit, that 
it is sometimes sown and reaped in ninety days ; it is 
therefore manifest that no reason in nature can exist 
why the ripening of Wheat should not be hastened a 
few days at least. In a pure variety of any kind of 
plant, as horticultural improvers well know, the 
elements of change are quiescent. A plant of fixed 
type reproduces its own characteristics continuously, 
but a cross introduces changes that are quite unac¬ 
countable. They may date, perhaps, from some 
distant ancestor, but, at all events, they give the 
breeder his chance. When they are advantageous he 
may fix them by selection. 
After what has just been recorded, we may hope 
that these renewed experiments in the crossing of 
Wheat may prove highly advantageous. They are 
certainly most encouraging at present.— H. E. 
-- 
The Gardeners’ Calendar, 
THE PLANT HOUSES. 
Autumn Propagating. —-While propagating is on 
it will be advisable to put in a potful of cuttings of each 
of the most desirable Fuchsias. Encourage them to root 
as quickly as possible, and afterwards harden off, finally 
placing them out of doors to ripen the wood before 
storing them in the pots in which they were struck. 
These will be found to make first-rate plants next 
season, and are far more serviceable than spring-struck 
plants. The weather having become changeable and 
the winds boisterous 
Chrysanthemums should be again gone over and 
the growths securely fastened to the stakes, or they 
quickly break, with the consequent loss of the heads of 
bloom. Some of the earliest-flowering varieties will 
now be better if removed under glass, particularly all 
the white and light-coloured ones ; they are always 
so readily damaged by storms of rain, that it is quite a 
necessity where purity of flowers is desired. Continue 
the propagation of all soft-wooded plants until a 
sufficient stock is obtained. 
Cinerarias. —We have pricked out a good batch of 
Cinerarias for late spring flowering, returning them to 
the north pits, where they will be kept rather close for 
a few days, when they will be treated like the others. 
Double Primulas will be much benefited if treated to a 
little more warmth ; they are naturally more tender 
than the singles, still, the house in which they are 
growing must be thoroughly ventilated, or they will 
become drawn. 
Begonias, &e. —It will now be advisable to pot up 
Begonias, Poinsettias and other such plants, which 
were planted out: if left longer in the open ground 
they never do so well, and, as a rule, lose much of their 
foliage. In all cases they must receive special attention 
in the way of giving each plant, after potting, a good 
soaking of water. The pit in which they are placed 
must be kept closed until they take to the new soil, 
and if the sun be at all bright, they must be kept 
shaded and sprinkled overhead three or four times 
a-day. 
Bouvardias. —If these have been grown on in pots, 
they should now, with the Libonias, be more freely 
ventilated, so as to ripen up the wood, or they will not 
flower satisfactorily. Solanums have made much less 
wood than usual ; but still, in most instances, are full 
of berries. They should be lifted and potted up as 
soon as time can be found for the work, as also the 
Calla Lily, or Bichardia. We intend trying the 
planting out of a good part of our stock on a narrow 
border in one of our Cucumber houses, and we think 
they will well repay the care bestowed upon them by 
giving us more bloom than they would if grown in 
pots. Of course, for staging purposes, it is quite 
necessary that a good quantity should be potted up. 
Mignonette. —The present will be found a suitable 
time for making a good sowing of Mignonette for 
spring flowering. We generally use 6-in. pots for the 
purpose, scattering the seed thinly over the surface of 
the soil, and finally thinning out the plants to five or 
six in a pot. The tree Mignonette should now receive 
its shift into the flowering-pots. The size will be 
determined as the plants are trained ; but at all times 
be careful not to over-pot. The soil should be made 
quite firm, so as to avoid the too frequent use of water. 
THE FORCING HOUSES. 
Tomatos for Winter. —We have cleared out one 
of our Melon houses, so as to allow of its being filled 
with a double row of Tomatos in pots for winter fruit¬ 
ing. They have been potted on, and then placed on 
planks in their places as the work proceeded. Mo heat 
will yet be given to the house, which will be kept 
freely ventilated as long as possible. All side-shoots 
must be removed as they appear, also any growth that 
may appear upon the trusses of bloom ; and should 
any of the latter be unduly large, it will be advisable 
to reduce them to ensure a good set. Do not give 
stimulants of any kind until a good set is secured, 
when the plants may be assisted in this way as often 
as is deemed necessary. 
The Late Batch of Melons will require frequent 
attention in the way of renewing the bottom-heat, 
setting of the fruit, and so on. Do not let them grow 
too freely, rather try to secure fully developed foliage 
than a crowded mass, especially at this season. A lead 
or two may be encouraged towards the tops of the 
plants, but not elsewhere—that is, so soon as sufficient 
fruit on the plant has been secured, and they are fairly 
swelling off. 
Cucumbers. —A house should now also be cleaned 
and prepared for the Cucumber plants which are to 
supply fruit through the dead of winter. If necessary, 
it should be painted ; but in any case it should be 
thoroughly washed and the walls given a good coat of 
freshly slaked lime, so that a clean start may be made, 
bearing in mind what a critical crop this is during 
the winter. - 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Winter Crops. —We have gone through the squares 
of Broccoli, making good where necessary—which we 
find rather more needful than expected, through 
the ravages of the grub—afterwards giving throughout 
a good sprinkling of gas lime, which we hope will have 
the desired effect of stopping their depredations. We 
have also put out another batch of Savoys, and a good 
planting of hardy green Coleworts, giving a good 
watering to encourage them to start quickly. The 
square for Spring Cabbage should at once be prepared, 
choosing a sheltered but open position. The ground 
should receive a heavy dressing of farmyard manure, 
it will then have time to thoroughly settle before 
planting is done. 
The Small Seeds sown as advised have come up 
really well, but seem to grow almost too freely. Onions 
we have lifted and stored in a dry, airy room. 
Watering of all the green crops will, of necessity, take 
up much time. At the same time every endeavour 
must be made to keep the Dutch hoe constantly at 
work amongst all growing crops, so that the surface 
may be kept open, and also to assist in keeping all 
scrupulousl} 7 clean and free from weeds. 
Strawberry Plantations have been cleared from 
runners and old foliage, after which the hoe was run 
between the rows to destroy weeds. Make frequent 
sowings of small salads, and if it does not succeed out- 
of-doors, sow under glass ; and where Kadishes are 
required for winter use sowings of China Bose or Black 
Spanish should now be made. — Walter Child, Croome 
Court. 
The Amateurs’ Garden, 
Eoman Hyacinths. —Now is the time to pot these, 
and amateurs who have any difficulty in supply them¬ 
selves with flowers at Christmas, should give the white 
Boman variety (which is the earliest) a trial, and lose 
no time in putting their intentions into execution. 
Those having plenty of fire-heat at command can get 
their bulbs into flower by November, but others less 
fortunate may still expect a supply at Christmas by 
a little effort on their part, in hastening growth on 
beds of hot dung, or other means at command, such as 
a greenhouse, frame, or window. Various methods 
may be devised of attaining the desired result, and a 
little experience will effect discoveries the uninitiated 
never know. Pot the bulbs immediately in a compost 
of turfy loam, leaf-soil, a portion of well-decayed 
manure, and sufficient sand to render the whole light, 
porous and open. This, with a good drainage, will 
ensure a free passage of superfluous moisture, and 
prevent the soil becoming sour and injurious to the 
activity of the roots. Fill the pots loosely with soil, 
arrange the bulbs, three in a 5-in. pot, triangular 
fashion, and press them firmly in the soil with the 
finger, and after making the soil sufficiently firm, fill 
up the pots just covering the bulbs, but leaving about 
J in. for watering, and a covering of moss if desirable 
when the plants are taken into dwelling-rooms in 
flower. Pressing the bulbs into the soil ensures them 
against being thrown out in the process of rooting, 
which they are very apt to do when laid on a firm 
surface, and afterwards covered with soil. Stand the 
pots in a cool shady place for a month till root-action 
takes place, when they may be put into warmer 
quarters to hasten their growth, and bring them into 
flower. When the crowns appear above soil, it is a 
good practice to place inverted pots over them till the 
flower spikes are well advanced. This checks an undue 
development of the foliage, which is often too bulky in 
forced plants. 
Cauliflowers and Turnips. —Make a sowing of 
Cauliflower in a frame, or in some place where the 
plants may be sheltered during winter. They will be 
ready to plant out on the accession of suitable weather 
in spring. As vegetables are likely to be scarce, and 
Turnips especially, a sowing may now be made, which 
will come on rapidly in the moist autumn weather, 
especially if the present genial temperature is 
maintained during next month, which is not at all 
improbable. The ground is in a much more suitable 
condition now than it was previous to the recent heavy 
rains. 
Verbenas. —-To propagate these in spring a little 
heat is required, but at this season of the year all that 
is necessary is to keep them close by means of a hand- 
light or cold frame, and not allowed to become dry. 
After about a week or ten days, if the cuttings should 
show any signs of growth, ventilation should not be 
neglected, otherwise they will become drawn and 
weakly. Shading during the hotter parts of the day 
may be necessary to prevent excessive evaporation, and 
the consequent flagging of the foliage ; but great and 
irreparable injury to Verbenas can be done in a very 
short time by overshading, owing to the softness and 
thinness of their leaves, and the rapid changes they 
undergo under the influence of light. 
In taking cuttings, be careful to select the short 
laterals that have not flowered, and if they should be 
obtainable by slipping them off with a heel so much 
the better. Indeed, at many places where so many 
thousands of these things are required annually, a 
common practice was to strip off the short laterals with 
a heel, and insert them in the beds of prepared soil 
without any cutting or dressing whatever than could 
be done by hand. Where the requisite number of 
cuttings is comparatively small, a little more attention 
may profitably be given them ; and the use of a sharp 
knife to trim off the lower pair of leaves, and cut them 
across clean below the joint, will be found both 
expedient and useful. By no means use a pair of 
scissors for propagating purposes, on account of their 
bruising and damaging the cutting. The practical eye 
will soon find out what are the best and most easily 
rooted cuttings, and be guided by former experience ; 
but those who are little acquainted with this kind of 
work will do well to take those that are short but 
comparatively firm, yet by no means wiry. The 
copious rains that have fallen, however, in many 
districts, have enabled plants of this kind to produce 
cuttings freely. — F. 
