October 15, 1887. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
103 
stitution ; and to the handsome donation of £100 which 
he had recently made to the Gardeners’ Orphan Fund. 
Mr. Dean also alluded to splendid services rendered to 
British horticulture by the three generations of Veitcli’s, 
and to the high position in the horticultural world 
attained by the present head of the famous Chelsea 
firm. The toast was enthusiastically received, and 
suitably acknowledged by Mr. Yeitch. Mr. Deal 
gave “The Visitors,” to which Mr. Manning replied ; 
and a similar compliment was paid to the dinner 
stewards, with special thanks to Messrs. AV. Thomson 
& Sons, Clovenfords, for their handsome contribution 
to the dessert. 
-■*■>:£-<-•■- 
Hardening ffoTES from 
fcOTLAND. 
Fruit Trees. —The season has now arrived when 
active measures must be taken with all fruit-bearing 
trees which are making growth at the expense of fruit. 
It is believed by some that fruit trees will always right 
themselves if allowed to expand their growth, and too 
often one has to witness the extension of growth ending 
in unhealthy trees ; and by the roots having uninter¬ 
ruptedly grown downwards, absence of fruit becomes 
very striking, but this depends much on the nature of 
subsoil and other local conditions. But when active 
roots come in contact with gravel, stones, lime rubbish, 
marl or other resisting material, a host of fibres are 
formed, on the branches short growths and natural 
spurs become abundant, and fruitfulness is thus secured. 
If clay of a damp and unhealthy nature has been taken 
possession of by the feeders, barrenness, canker and 
unmatured wood must of a consequence follow. Whole 
orchards may sometimes be seen in this condition, and 
proprietors of such wonder why they should fail. In 
the case of young trees which can be readily lifted and 
re-planted into fresh healthy loam made firm, the 
difficulty is easily overcome. If the mistake has not 
been discovered till the trees are of a gigantic size, it 
will then be necessary to pursue another course of 
treatment—root - pruning will have to be put into 
practice. As each case may have its peculiarities, 
rational practice, not haphazard, must be followed. 
We have been told by some cultivators that they have 
root pruned with no success whatever. 
I will mention a few facts, showing where the 
work has only been nominally executed—a trench 
having been dug round the roots, and all at a certain 
distance from the trunk cut clean off. The work has 
thus been considered complete, so far as the cutting is 
concerned ; then a quantity of good rich soil, perhaps 
well mixed with manure, is filled into the space, 
and the poor unhealthy earth has been wheeled away. 
The roots run into this greedily, vigour is again soon 
observed in the trees, and growth minus fruit, as before, 
is the result. But if the downward roots are found, 
and cleared of the soil—to see which requires manipu¬ 
lating—and all cut clean away, lime-rubbish or stones 
mixed with healthy loam rammed firmly under the 
tree, leaving the upper roots for a season, well mulched 
and watered when necessary, then fruitful growth may 
be expected. If the trees still misbehave, the cutting 
all round to sever the out-growing roots may be done, 
and the space filled in with soil such as is placed 
underneath, and made as firm as it can be rammed, 
when fruitfulness may then be certain. Such cautious 
hints are more for the inexperienced. We have, how¬ 
ever, gathered fruit lately in quantity from very old 
trees, which were headed down, the side and bottom 
roots being removed at the same time. Success has 
been perfect, crops are enormous, and large highly- 
coloured fruit has been the reward. The branches are 
still clothed with dark green foliage, and fine fruit- 
buds bristle all over the wood ; the complete change in 
the appearance and quality of the fruit is remarkable. 
The mass of fibres which have been led upwards to 
heat and air, have changed green cracked Apples to 
deep yellow fruit, streaked with scarlet. Hacking at 
gross wood to keep the trees down to a certain size, 
while the roots are running wild into the sub-soil, in 
due time provokes resistance of such unnatural treat¬ 
ment. 
Those who know what it is to experience heavy 
losses from severe gales are easily induced to use the 
knife at top and bottom to cause a stiff wind-resisting 
growth. The “let alone” system soon crowds the 
trees, and produces long branches, which are lashed 
about by the wind, strewing the fruit in all directions. 
We do not refer to other methods of root-pruning here, 
such as that done between May and September, forcing 
the trees into produce the following season, and the 
formation of the roots into dense masses, which renders 
fruit-bearing and health a certainty. Lifting and 
careful re-planting while the trees are in a manageable 
condition is always liberally rewarded, and no time 
should be lost in completing this important work. 
The planting of trees will soon demand attention, where 
additions to, or renovation of, the fruit garden are to 
be made. If it is possible to go to the nurseries to 
select the trees, it always gives satisfaction. No 
starvelings or cankered ones should be accepted. If 
maiden trees can be had they will be the most satis¬ 
factory in the end, and those with clear glossy bark are 
the kinds that should be chosen ; but bark-bound snag- 
covered wood is a most objectionable sign. The trees 
to be selected are such as one may expect an abundance 
of fruit from yearly, kinds suitable to the district, and 
those only that are known to do well.— Caledonian. 
Seasonable Notes. —We have been warned by 
three nights frosts, which were sharp enough/to kill 
French Beans, blacken Dahlias to the ground, injure 
any heads of Cauliflower that were not protected, and 
show marks innumerable, which testify that preparation 
must be made to resist the injury which may be 
sustained by October frosts. We have already read 
that in parts, hundreds of miles further 'south from 
where we write, Chrysanthemums have been exposed 
to 8° of frost, and “hung their heads.” Flower 
gardens are already much crippled. On Saturday, 
October 8th, flowers of Pelargoniums were as bright as 
one could desire, and on the following day, Sundajq 
most of them were black. A kind named Little 
David, which has been a mass of bloom since June, 
seemed at its best on the date mentioned, and 
evidently is hardier than Vesuvius, Amaranth, Henry 
Jacoby, and several others. Where Pansies and 
Violas do well they should be largely cultivated, 
and a selection made for bedding. Robin Hood, a 
small-flowered variety, which has been in flower 
for six months, is still at its best, and all that is 
valuable and worth saving should no longer be left 
to take its chance. Calceolarias, Pentstemons and 
Pansies may be propagated as late as the middle of 
November—we have often done them well as late as 
the middle of the month, but a month earlier is 
more preferable; and, though Pansies are very hardy, 
they are all the better if a shallow frame is used 
during severe weather. Our Calceolaria cuttings are 
in an open border, protected at night by hoops and 
mats, along with Chrysanthemums. At this season, 
and onward for more than two months, Eupatorium 
odoratuin, Habrothamnus aurantiacus and elegans, 
and Lapagerias rosea and alba make suitable com¬ 
panions under glass, and look well belted with 
Primulas, Musk, Ericas and Cinerarias, which have 
been sown early. 
The latter are often grown well and very large in 
northern gardens, and frequently treated so as to 
become an autumn-flowering plant. There is no 
objection to this (we have a few dozens coming into 
flower now) where there is means to allow the plants 
plenty of light and air, and they are kept near the 
glass when the days get shorter. When they are kept 
far from the light, coddled, and free air not admitted, 
failure is certain. If the plants are pot-bound they 
may be shifted carefully and firmly into pots two sizes 
larger, using a compost of sandy loam. They will soon 
fill the pots with roots, when liberal applications of 
liquid manure will be beneficial to them. A dewing 
of “ Swift and Sure ” insecticide occasionally will keep 
the foliage and flower-stems free from vermin. The 
double kinds are now coming into much favour for 
cut bloom, and for this purpose they are likely to 
supersede the older varieties ; but flowers in dense 
masses of the single kinds, 2 ins. or more across each, 
are not mean objects during winter. The main stock 
for general use will, of course, be kept cool and airy till 
they flower, for those forced in heat are poor objects.— 
Caledonian. __ 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
The Greenhouse. —The time has now arrived when 
arrangements must be made for housing outdoor stuff 
that cannot withstand the severity of our winters in 
the open, and requires protection of some kind or other 
under glass. In commencing to lift and re-pot, the 
choicest and most delicate subjects should receive the 
first attention, as they are the more likely to suffer 
should a frosty night occur, which is now possible at 
any time. Dahlias, although among the first to 
s lccumb to frost, need not be lifted until they become 
blackened and useless for decorative purposes, as they 
may continue, in its absence, to bear a considerable 
quantity of bloom. Heliotropes suffer equally as early 
as the Dahlias ; but it is to be assumed that a sufficient 
number of cuttings have been taken and rooted previous 
to this time for next year’s requirements. Should it 
be thought expedient or necessary to retain some of the 
old plants, the sooner they are lifted now the better, 
standing them in a frame or close place till they take 
fresh root, and so enable them to pass the winter in 
cool quarters. 
For the accommodation of these and other bedding 
subjects, such as Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Lobelias, and 
the Chrysanthemums, that must soon be housed if they 
have not been so before this time, the greenhouse or 
conservatory that is to receive them should be thoroughly 
overhauled. It would be greatly conducive to the 
benefit of the plants should the interior of the house 
receive a thorough cleansing before storing it with the 
winter occupants. To do this, all the moveable plants 
should be taken outside or shifted to one end of the 
house ; then prune back the deciduous climbers, re¬ 
moving all old and useless wood as far as practicable, 
and so regulating the remaining shoots as to admit the 
greatest amount of light, which is absolutely necessary 
in maintaining the health of the plants under glass 
during our sunless winter season. If time will not 
admit of the glass and wood being thoroughly washed, 
a good syringing with soft-soap and water should be 
given, so as to reach every crevice and destroy the 
vermin that have been so plentiful this season, both 
indoors and out. Clear away stakes, matting, empty 
pots, and all such things that are not absolutely 
wanted, for these, it is to be regretted, are too often 
allowed to accumulate till they are not only unsightly, 
but afford a safe and convenient lurking-place for all 
kinds of vermin, that sally from their retreats during 
the night and destroy choice plants of all kinds. An 
air of tidiness should pervade the house, and when 
once the owner has become accustomed to this, a better 
order of things is sure to prevail. 
Having got the house in readiness, commence 
arranging the plants according to their heights, the 
amount of light they receive, and in that order which 
shall secure the finest effect possible under the circum¬ 
stances ; for there is no reason why a greenhouse of the 
humblest kind should not be tidy and interesting, if 
not gay, even in the dullest winter months. This can 
be secured by general cleanliness, neat staking and 
training of those subjects that require it, and by the 
employment of a judicious selection of Ferns according 
to the heat kept up. Some of the evergreen British 
Ferns are equally as handsome as exotics, and can be 
maintained in good condition throughout the winter, 
where no more fire-heat is necessary than to keep out 
frost. That amount is required to preserve Pelar¬ 
goniums, so that no more would be wanted for the 
safe-keeping of hardy or sub-hardy Ferns, both British 
and exotic. Among the former, what could be more 
handsome than some of the numerous fine forms of 
Aspidium (Polystielium) aculeatum, A. (P.) angulare, 
Polypodium vulgare cambricum, P. v. elegantissimum, 
Scolopendrium vulgare, S. v. crispum, and endless- 
crested forms ; Lastrea Filix-mas cristata, Asplenium 
adiantum nigrum, and A. marinum ? Several of the 
smaller forms are also peculiarly beautiful and interest¬ 
ing, such as Asplenium Triehomanes, A. T. Moulei, A. 
fontanum, the Killarney Fern (Triehomanes radicans), 
Hymenophyllum Tunbridgense, and H. Wilsoni. The 
last three require a glass shade to keep them fresh. 
The exotic Ferns that would bear a low temperature 
and keep green are numerous, and a few might be 
grown with great advantage, such as Pteris serrulata, 
P. s. cristata, P. s. c. compacta, P. cretica, P. c. albo- 
lineata, P. c. Mayi, P. scaberula, P. hastata, Platyloma 
rotundifolia, Asplenium flabellatum, Aspidium (poly- 
stichum) vestitum, and Blechnum brasiliense. 
Bedding stuff, that must now or very soon be housed, 
should occupy a front part of the house, so as to be 
near the light ; but if a frame is at command, all 
plants coming under this heading may be kept there 
till frosty nights become severe enough to make it 
dangerous for them to be left longer ■where fire-heat 
cannot be employed for their preservation. The tallest 
plants of whatever kind must occupy that part of the 
house where there is sufficient head room for their 
accommodation, but the arranging will have most effect 
if the smaller plants occupy a position next the path¬ 
way, with those behind them gradually becoming 
taller, so that all may be facing the beholder. Avoid 
as much as possible all crowding, and after cutting 
down Pelargoniums that have done flowering, and 
pruning back Fuchsias, throw away all plants that are 
