October 22 , 1887. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
123 
appendages at each end. They are also very much 
flattened, owing to the little space at their disposal, by 
reason of the enormously thickened and fleshy axis, 
and being arranged horizontally, accommodate their 
great width in the longitudinal axis of the fruit. Un¬ 
fortunately the embryos are so minute, or altogether 
aborted, that they will neither ripen nor be of any 
service for the purpose of raising seedlings, which is the 
quickest mode of reproducing the tree. 
Seeds for this purpose are obtained from America, 
and germinate readily, but as in the case of most other 
trees, the Catalpa so raised requires a much longer 
time to attain a flowering state. Propagation is also 
effected in Britain by layers, root-cuttings, cuttings of 
nearly-ripened shoots, and also by grafting. The last 
method is, probably, most frequently adopted in the 
case of the handsome gold - leaved garden variety. 
Growth is very rapid during the first ten years, after 
which it grows more slowly and developes a broad head 
of spreading branches. The tree is admirably adapted 
for growing singly or in clumps on the grass, and the 
effect when 'in flower is very handsome. The leaves 
are, however, larger and more ornamental in the 
young state of the tree. It is best known in gardens 
under the name of C. syringtefolia, which specific name 
implies that the leaves are like those of the common 
Lilac, whereas bignonioides signifies, or has reference, 
that the flowers resemble those of a Bignonia.— J. F. 
-- 
MYLENHURST, SHEFFIELD. 
After a two miles walk through the southern 
suburbs, we left the smoky laden atmosphere behind, and 
coming to a more salubrious neighbourhood, soon found 
not far from the ancient Ivy-clad church of Eeclesall, 
the delightful residence of one of Sheffield’s most ardent 
lovers of horticulture, Major Blake. No expense has 
been spared in the formation of the gardens and 
pleasure grounds that surround his comparatively new 
and well-built mansion, which stands so pleasantly 
with a south aspect for the principal front, and so 
commanding extensive and beautiful woodland and 
moorland scenery. At the time of our visit the 
autumnal tints added greatly to the charming picture 
before us. Nature has done much at Mylenhurst, and 
Mr. Copestake, the landscape gardener, very skilfully 
drew his plans so as to retain as much as possible of the 
natural beauty of the situation. On the right side of 
the broad and well-made carriage drive is a belt of 
trees and shrubs, amongst them being nice healthy and 
well-shaped trees of different species of Pines, Thujas, 
Cupressus, Rhododendrons, and other flowering shrubs, 
all growing freely. 
The flower garden proper is on the south front of 
the mansion, and close by is a very nice piece of orna¬ 
mental water, which is surrounded by sloping banks 
planted with Rhododendrons and other shrubs. 
Amongst them are winding walks and seats, and at one 
part of the bank which is opposite the design of beds, 
all planted with Roses, there is a large and pleasant 
summer-house. The kitchen gardens and orchard are 
situated on the west side of the mansion, being well 
covered by a high and substantial brick wall, which is 
a great protection to the crops of fruit and vegetables 
from the north and east w r inds. 
On the south side of the wall just mentioned are the 
glass houses, which are well built, and embrace all 
modem improvements. Each sash-bar is grooved under 
the glass, which carries away all condensed water, and 
prevents drip within the houses. These structures are 
the work of Messrs. Foster & Pearson, of Beeston, 
Notts, and are so complete that there is no need of 
going outside from one house to another. The potting- 
shed is also connected with the houses, which is an 
additional comfort both to the gardener and his plants. 
The first house we entered was a lean-to greenhouse, 
the back wall being covered with Roses, Heliotrope and 
other climbers, and on the stages were decorative 
plants. The next house is a span-roofed structure, 
which is devoted to the growth of Cucumbers on one 
side and East Indian Orchids on the other, amongst 
which were many healthy pieces of iErides, Saecola- 
biums, Phalsenopsis, Vandas, &c. No. 3 house is 
the stove; the side stages were also filled with Orchids, 
while the centre bed was occupied with Ferns, Palms, 
Crotons and other ornamental stove plants. Amongst 
the Orchids in flower in this house were two plants of 
the beautiful Catasetum Bungerothii, one having a 
spike with thirteen flowers. This new species will 
become a general favourite, owing to its free-flowering 
habit and the sweet perfume it gives off while in 
bloom. Cattleya Leopoldii, C. speciosissima, Cypripe- 
dium insigne (several good plants), C. Spicerianum, C. 
Harrisianum, C. Sedeni, C. concolor, Oncidium 
Lanceanum (a fine piece and good variety), 0. bical¬ 
losum and Dendrobium Dearii were also noted. There 
was a fine plant of Allamanda Schottii, planted out 
under the wall at one end, producing dozens of fine 
flowers. 
The adjoining compartment is another greenhouse, 
a lean-to, the wall of which is covered with one fine 
plant of Lapageria rosea, which is also planted out, and 
flowering very freely. We next entered the cool Orchid 
house. This is also a span-roof, and the occupants all 
seem to be at home in it, there being plenty of light 
and ample ventilation provided. The Odontoglossum 
crispums had finished up some good firm growths, 
which were showing many good flower-spikes in various 
stages of development; 0. grande, 0. constrictum, 
Oncidium crispum, 0. incurvum, O. tigrinum, Mesos- 
pinidium vulcanicum, Maxillaria grandiflora (fine strong 
plant with many flowers), Pleione lagenaria and 
P. Wallichiana were among the above with their bright 
and cheerful flowers. The Orchids, generally, were in a 
healthy condition, which cannot fail to give satisfaction 
and pleasure to their owner, and which certainly does 
credit to the gardener, Mr. S. Herriett, who keeps the 
gardens throughout in very neat and good order. 
There are two other houses, which are devoted to 
Grapes and Peaches ; both trees and Vines had been 
cleared of their crops, but I have no doubt they were 
good, from the appearance of the wood in each house. 
ORCHID GROWING FOR 
AMATEURS. * 
A MAN may be a very good all-round gardener, and 
yet not excel in any particular branch of his profession, 
simply because he has not the time, and cannot give 
the attention to any speciality to show to what per¬ 
fection it is capable of being brought. Specialties are 
now so numerous in the garden, that if a grower wishes 
to cultivate plants to perfection he must devote his 
time and attention to a few kinds. It may be 
Auriculas, Primulas, Cyclamens, Chrysanthemums, 
Clematis, Roses in pots, tuberous-rooted Begonias, 
Pelargoniums, Orchids, or anything else. It is only 
by giving his time and careful attention to what he 
takes in hand that he can excel in its cultivation. So 
it is with the amateur who undertakes the cultivation 
of Orchids, for if he becomes interested in them he 
will soon conquer the difficulties of making a start. 
Unfortunately the idea has got abroad that Orchids 
are difficult to cultivate. It may apply to a few, but 
by no means to the majority. 
Every now and then we hear of what may be done 
in the way of growing Orchids in a cool greenhouse. 
That a few may be so treated I do not doubt; and 
among the number we may include Disa grandiflora, 
one of our showiest and prettiest late summer and 
autumn-flowering Orchids — a plant often killed by 
being subjected to too much heat. But although 
Orchids may be grown in a cool greenhouse, I do not 
recommend that mode of treatment to you. The 
house may be kept at a little higher temperature, 
making it a warm greenhouse, with a minimum 
winter heat of 45°. By this means we shall then 
have a place in which a great many of our prettiest 
and easily cultivated species and varieties of Orchids 
may be successfully grown. To think that Orchids 
can only be grown in a house specially constructed for 
them is a mistake, as any structure in which a Pelar¬ 
gonium may be successfully grown will answer the 
purpose. One important point ought not to be for¬ 
gotten—that is, the plant should be kept well up to 
the light. This can be done by using pots on which 
to stand the plants, or hanging up those that specially 
need it, and having the stages re-arranged to meet the 
requirements. 
Having decided, then, to go in for Orchid culture, 
our first concern will be what species to grow. I would 
strongly recommend commencing with the cool section, 
and if success attend your efforts, species and varieties 
requiring more heat may be added afterwards. The 
following list may be taken as representing the best of 
pretty, cheap, and easily-cultivated kinds; and an 
amateur beginning with these will be guided by the 
success he attains with them, and soon try those 
reputed to be shy growers :—Anguloa Clowesii, Cattleya 
citrina, Cattleya Trian® (at the warm end of house), 
Ccelogyne cristata, Cymbidium eburneum, Cypripedium 
insigne and its varieties, Dendrobium nobile (at the 
warm end of house), Epidendrum atropurpureum, 
* A Paper read by Mr. Alexander Wright at a meeting of the 
St. Peter’s, Hammersmith, and District Horticultural and 
Cottage Garden Society. 
E. vitellinum majus, L»lia anceps, L. autumnalis, 
Masdevallia Harryana, M. ignea, M. Lindenii, M. 
tovarensis, M. Veitchiana, Odontoglossum Alexandra:, 
0. Cervantesii, 0. citrosmum, 0. gloriosum, 0. grande, 
0. Pescatorei, 0. pulchellum, 0. Rossii majus, 0. 
triumphans, 0. vexillarium (at warm end of house), 
Oncidium crispum, 0. cueullatum, 0. Forbesii, 0. 
ornithorrhynchum, 0. tigrinum, Lycaste Skinneri, 
Pleione lagenaria, P. maculata, P. Wallichii, and 
Sophronitis grandiflora give a good selection with which 
to begin. As their culture and wants become under¬ 
stood and mastered, the chances are that a great many 
more of the lovely varieties will be added. Everyone 
has a fancy for some favourite genus, striving to obtain 
all the gems belonging to it, which may account for 
the long prices which are sometimes realised for scarce 
varieties. Unfortunately, the rarer a plant is the 
greater its value ; but it does not imply that the flower 
is prettier, although it may not be purchased for a 
reasonable amount. Some of the fabulous prices paid 
for a single plant would be sufficient to build a range 
of Orchid houses, and stock them as well. 
There are hopes of getting something good among 
imported plants, as there is always great interest in 
watching them flower for the first time. Seeing that 
imported plants are natural seedlings, and, it may be, 
hybrids, there is always a difference to be found in the 
flower of each individual that opens. Certainly, freshly 
imported plants find a ready sale ; and the quantity 
imported every year brings them well within the reach 
of the amateur. 
Potting. 
The material used in potting Orchids is simple in 
the extreme compared with what is sometimes seen 
recommended for some particular plant. Good fibrous 
peat and sphagnum are all that is required for most 
epiphytal Orchids, with, perhaps, the addition of some 
pieces of charcoal. In potting, great care should be 
taken to use only clean pots, and that the potsherds 
have been previously washed, as the cleaner and 
sweeter everything is kept, the better the plants will 
like it, and show the results in their healthy appear¬ 
ance. The pots require to be filled three parts full of 
potsherds, or what is perhaps better, place an inverted 
pot inside the one intended for use, so that it comes 
about three parts up, and fill the space round it with 
potsherds. On this place a layer of sphagnum moss, 
and over it place your plant ; then fill in round with 
rough pieces of turfy peat and sphagnum, making the 
whole moderately firm, but avoid anything like ex¬ 
tremes. Place three or four patches of live sphagnum 
on the top, which will ultimately grow and cover the 
whole surface. When finished, the plant should stand 
about 1 in. or so above the level of the pot—the peat 
and sphagnum being so adjusted that the whole 
forms a rounded mass. Avoid using bad peat having 
a close sandy texture, or of a close retentive nature ; 
such peat soon gets sour, and, consequently, the plants 
suffer. Do not use the fine portion that falls out as 
you break the peat up ; that may be used for something 
else. ( To le continued.) 
-- 
ARDENING fflSCELLANY. 
Death of the Sea Anemone, “Granny.”— 
The death is announced of the old Sea Anemone (Actinia 
mesembryanthemum), familiarly known as “Granny,” 
which for several years was an object of great 
curiosity and interest to visitors to the Royal Botanic 
Gardens at Edinburgh. The venerable zoophyte was 
in good health until a few weeks ago, when it was 
attacked by a parasitic fungus, which proved fatal. 
“Granny” must have been nearly seventy years of 
age, being supposed to be at least seven years old when 
taken from a rock pool at North Berwick in August, 
1828, by that well-known antiquary, Sir John Graham 
Dalzell, and placed in the glass jar in which it sub¬ 
sequently lived for so many years. On the death of 
Sir John Dalzell in 1851 “Granny” passed into the 
hands of Professor Fleming, with whom it remained 
until his death in November, 1857, when Mrs. Fleming 
presented it to Dr. James McBain, R.N., who in turn, 
and a but few days before his death in 1879, gave his 
interesting charge to the late Mr. John Sadler, then 
Curator of the Royal Botanic Gardens, and on his death 
in 1882 “Granny ” was taken in charge by the present 
Curator, Mr. Lindsay. It is recorded that during 
a period of twenty years “Granny” produced 334 
young ones, and that in the spring of 1857, after being 
many years unproductive, gave birth during a single 
night to 240 more. Again, on February 18th, 1882, 
