134 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
October 29, 1887. 
or suspended in baskets. A pretty species not often 
seen is N. Philippinensis, a narrow-fronded form, 
pinnae closely set, much raised on the upper surface by 
the sori on the under side ; it is a very attractive kind, 
and should find a place in collections. 
Brainea insignis is a grand thing where it does well, 
but oftentimes suffers from too much heat. Its dark 
bronzy fronds as they rise from the crown and gradually 
assume a horizontal position, are very effective when 
standing in conspicuous situations, Microlepia hirta 
cristata with its long light green tasselled fronds will 
either do for ledge-work or basket-work, but at all 
times it should stand clear from every other plant 
about, so as to show its perfect form and character to 
perfection. For filling up interstices amongst these 
larger-growing Ferns, plenty of variety may be found 
among hosts of other species, many of very elegant and 
chaste design or form. 
Basket Ferns. 
Our second part will be devoted to basket Ferns of a 
character suitable to the purpose, omitting, as much as 
possible, all kinds that are well known and are in 
general use, but which we will just generalise, so that 
should the Fern admirer prefer them to the sorts I 
shall more thoroughly describe, he will have the 
pleasure of knowing that to the good well-tried sorts he 
is using others may be added, should he care to do so 
at any future time. 
Adiantums and Aspleniums can be passed, unless 
we except Adiantum Farleyense and Asplenium long- 
issimum, which are about the best of the genera. The 
same may be said of Davallias, Mierolepias, Gonio- 
phlebiums, among whose ranks good serviceable species 
abound, and cannot well be dispensed with ; but, still, 
to obtain something fresh we must dispense with some 
of our old favourites to put others in their places for a 
time, at least. Assuming, therefore, that we have 
looked out the best of the usually recommendable 
kinds, we will now proceed to describe our new 
favourites. 
Amongst the most elegant as well as graceful basket 
Ferns may be placed Cheilanthes elegans, the Lace 
Fern. When well grown its fronds rise up rather 
erect, afterwards assuming a hanging position, which 
makes it an excellent basket subject. It may be grown 
with very long fronds if placed in stove heat, or it will 
do equally as well in a warm greenhouse, where its 
fronds do not attain quite so great a length. It is one 
of the most beautiful Ferns in existence. 
Gymnogramma schizophvlla is a most splendid Fern, 
with very finely-cut drooping fronds, slightly powdered 
with silver, and producing small bulbils about three- 
parts of the way up the fronds, which, if pegged to the 
soil on the surface or side of the basket, soon take root- 
hold, and assist the parent in forming a globular mass. 
G. decomposita may be used for basket work. Its 
fronds are rather more erect than some forms, but still 
arch well towards the top. With a few plants of 
Asplenium fiabellifolium placed in with it, it makes a 
handsome basket subject, the fronds being finely 
divided and slightly covered with a pale yellow powder. 
The same treatment may be applied to any of the 
heavily-marked species, either golden or silver, which, 
when suspended in baskets from the roof, show the 
peculiar characteristics that these kinds are really 
grown for—namely, the heavy gold and silver powder 
which, in nearly all cases, appear on the under surface. 
The same remarks may apply to FTothochlsena chry- 
sophylla and FT. nivea, the gold and silver forms. By 
suspension you see the merits of the plants at a 
glance. Platyceriums of all kinds make very handsome 
and peculiar basket plants, and if left undisturbed for 
a few years they will completely cover the basket in 
which they are growing, the sterile fronds overlapping 
each other to such an extent that it is with some 
difficulty they can be removed, the fertile fronds rising 
in all cases, and arching over towards the top of the 
others. 
Leucostegia immersa makes a rich basket Fern, its 
light green fronds being very attractive; it is deciduous, 
but whilst its fronds are good it is a charming plant. 
A genera of excellent and peculiar Ferns that may be 
easily grown, but which are not often seen is Pellrea ; 
all are beautiful and curious, but the form P. ternifolia 
makes a most remarkable and handsome basket Fern. 
These Ferns like rather a drier atmosphere than most 
others, hence they are better adapted for basket plants. 
They only want to be seen to be admired, and then I 
have no doubt they would become more popular. 
Passing from these we might name a few good 
serviceable Selaginellas, provided they can be kept 
shaded and moist enough, and I do not see why they 
cannot be, when such things as Adiantums, &c., may 
be used as basket plants. The following six make good 
subjects when well treated :—S. caulescens, S. csesia, 
S. c. arborea, S. Galeottii, S. circinalis, and S. Victoria. 
These give a variety of foliage not very often met with 
amongst basket Ferns generally. S. Kraussiana and 
S. K. aurea may be always employed for lining baskets, 
and is a good indicator by which you may ascertain if 
the soil in the baskets is dry, for it quickly begins to 
grow on the surface of the soil, and shows signs of 
distress if at all dry. 
British Ferns lay claim to a large amount of atten¬ 
tion, because of the ease with which they may be 
grown, and the great variety in form, &c., to be had in 
a good collection ; some are very good as basket Ferns 
in cold houses, and others are handsome when planted 
on rockwork, either under glass or outside in shady 
places. The Lady Fern is exceptionally beautiful in all 
its varieties, the variety A. F.-f. Frizellise being very 
chaste and elegant for basket work; A. F. -f. Pritchardii 
makes longer fronds, but assumes a grand arching habit 
at the terminal end of its fronds, which give it an 
elegant appearance. 
The wall Fern, Lastrea Filix-mas, is rich in variety, 
for the purpose of making conspicuous objects on rock- 
work. What can surpass a well-grown plant of L. 
Filix-mas cristata, with its large arching tasselled 
fronds of a very dark green hue ? When fully matured 
and in good position, with suitable soil, it makes long 
fronds, standing well up from among other varieties, 
and assuming to itself the role of king of the rockery. 
The Osmundas, the Polystichums, the Scolopendriums 
all furnish useful varieties that can be planted in 
conspicuous positions for effect; the Polypodium vul- 
gare furnishes us with several varieties that are very 
beautiful, either used as basket plants or otherwise. 
The variety P. v. cambricum and P. v. pulcherrimum 
are beautifully lacerated on the pinnae ; the varieties 
P. v. cornubiense and P. v. elegantissima are so finely 
cut, that they are scarcely recognisable as forms of 
Polypodium vulgare. 
Again, the Oak and Beech Ferns, though deciduous, 
are very pretty when grown as basket Ferns, the 
beautiful green of the Oak Fern making it a favourite 
with all who see it. Sufficient variety exists among 
Ferns to allow of some change from the old groove that 
has been run in for years ; and a change occasionally 
from the usual stereotyped form, that continually 
appears set up before us, would be beneficial alike to 
the gardener and the employer, the latter often 
appreciating some change made by the gardener, more 
especially if a new idea or two can be introduced. 
Fresh ideas and fresh plans should be brought out 
every year, thus showing that the mind of the gardener 
is not dull nor unmindful of the wants of the age.— 
ORCHID GROWING FOR 
AMATEURS. 
(Concluded from p. 123). 
There is no law to lay down as to time for potting, 
but it may be taken as a safe guide that when the 
plants are starting into growth they may be potted if 
they require it. See that the soil which contains no 
roots, or any that may have become sour, is taken 
away before potting. This helps to keep the plant in 
better condition ; but if it should not be in a healthy 
state, all the soil should be carefully taken away, and 
the roots washed in clean water, cutting away with a 
sharp knife all decayed portions, afterwards re-potting 
in fresh material. In such cases a few pieces of 
charcoal may be added to the peat and sphagnum. 
Although there is nothing in the charcoal itself to help 
the growth of the plant, it forms a reservoir which 
stores up and gives off gases favourable to plant life. 
Besting Orchids. 
After the young growth has become matured some 
Orchids require to be kept drier, and only as much 
water given as will prevent them from shrivelling. 
Others, again, need to be kept moist all the year round, 
such as Odontoglossum Alexandras, 0. vexillarium, &c., 
while Dendrobiums, Cattleyas, Lycastes, &c., require 
to be kept drier after they have completed their growth. 
It is well to bear in mind that the end of a house where 
the hot water comes in from the boiler is generally the 
warmest, and it is often very convenient when plants 
are making their growth to keep them there ; but it is 
advisable to place them at the cool end while resting. 
Avoid letting plants get too dry, or the pseudo-bulbs 
will shrivel up. That kind of resting does no good, 
but positive harm. 
It may be pointed out that some plants in their 
native habitats are so dried and shrivelled up. On the 
other hand, the failure of Orchid growing in the past 
was this dry roasting treatment, which has been found 
by experience to be unnecessary—in fact, the plants 
will give better results under a more reasonable method 
of culture. 
Watering Orchids. 
This is a process that can only be learned by 
experience. We frequently hear th'e question asked 
how often a certain plant will require water. So much 
depends upon situation, weather, and other circum¬ 
stances that it is impossible to give a satisfactory 
answer. A safe guide through the season of activity 
is to keep the sphagnum on the top of the pot in a 
growing condition. During the hot and bright weather 
the plants may be watered overhead with benefit to 
them, which will also help to keep down insect pests ; 
but directly dull or damp weather sets in, the syringe 
should be laid aside. 
Ventilation and Shading. 
Air should be admitted on all favourable occasions ; 
indeed, unless it is freezing or foggy weather—and, 
unfortunately, we in the neighbourhood of London 
know something of the ill effects of fog on plant life— 
it should have free access to the plants at all times, 
both day and night, as its circulation among them 
greatly helps to keep them in a healthy condition. It 
is also advisable that it should pass over the hot-water 
pipes, in order that it may be partially warmed before 
reaching the plants, and to attain this end it should be 
admitted under the stage in cold weather. During the 
summer months it will be necessary to use some kind 
of shading, whether of a permanent nature, or that 
which can be rolled up in dull weather —preferably the 
latter, as it is of great importance that the plants should 
receive as much light as possible without having the 
direct rays of the sun. Of course, there are exceptions 
to all rules, and it is well known that some Orchids are 
benefited by exposure to the full sunshine. There have 
also been good results from suspending the plants in 
baskets or pots from the branches of trees during the 
summer, keeping them entirely outdoors for four or 
five months. It is always very interesting to amateurs 
to try anything that seems feasible and likely to give 
satisfactory results. 
Manure. 
Should this be applied to Orchids, and if so, in what 
way ? There has, undoubtedly, been good results 
shown by damping down the house once or twice a 
week with cow-manure water, as the roots of Orchids 
are so formed that they are well adapted to absorb food 
from the atmosphere. This is a safe way to apply 
manure to all epiphytal Orchids, and so used, I believe 
good results will follow. Then, on the other hand, 
strong rooting kinds, such as Cypripedium insigne and 
Lycaste Skinneri, may be greatly improved—that is, 
their flowers may be considerably enlarged—by the use 
of manure added to the potting soil. I have now a 
variety of Cypripedium insigne coming into flower, and 
as near as I can tell at present, about three parts of the 
flower-stems will each produce two flowers. This has 
been produced by potting the plants in a mixture of 
sphagnum and bone meal. If we carefully examine a 
Cypripedium flower, we shall generally find a small 
embryo of another flower at its base which has not 
been developed, simply because the plant could not 
supply the necessary nourishment ; and 1 think if that 
necessary nourishment were supplied, most of the 
Cypripediums would become twin-flowered. The same 
thing occasionally occurs with Lycaste Skinneri, but 
generally here we have increased size of the individual 
flowers. Other Orchids, no doubt, would be benefited 
by manures, but it would be a dangerous practice for 
an amateur to try. It is better to let well alone, and 
be content with the results obtained by clear water, or 
occasionally damping the floor with manure-water. 
Temperature. 
By keeping the Orchid house during the winter 
months at a minimum temperature of 45° at night in 
severe weather, and rising to 50° in milder weather 
with a corresponding rise of 10° during the day, and an 
advance during the summer to 55° at night, and 70° or 
75°by day, from small but successful beginnings—which 
are important—many large and valuable collections have 
been got together, and the list of Orchids I have given 
will be found very suitable to start with. 
Insects and Diseases. 
Orchids are very impatient of being fumigated with 
Tobacco smoke, and great care has to be exercised in 
doing it for the destruction of green-fly and thrip. 
The safest and best means of getting rid of these pests, 
