November 19, 188?. 
THE HARDENING WORLD. 
181 
who do not wish to waste a season, but desire to 
have Eoses next summer, must he careful to plant 
at once, and not to leave it until next spring. 
Some people cannot see this ; they do not see 
the difference. Eose trees when taken up in the 
spring have no time allowed them to make roots 
before they are called upon to grow, and this growth is 
rarely satisfactory or vigorous. "When we transplant 
in autumn the plants often make new roots before the 
winter, and in these cases they are much more likely, 
being well established, to give good blooms and be¬ 
come fine plants. In planting, care should be taken 
not to expose the roots to the sun or drying winds. 
They should only be planted when the ground is in a 
proper state, i.e., when the soil is so dry that it does 
not stick to the spade. If it be not in this state it 
cannot be made to fall round the roots as it should do, 
and any attempt to stamp it down only makes it into a 
puddle. This will not do at all ; so if our plants arrive 
in wet weather we must lay them in until the weather 
changes. They should not be laid just in a bundle as 
they come to hand, but should be taken apart and laid 
in such a way that the roots are all thoroughly covered 
with soil. 
When we do begin planting, the business should be 
completed with all speed. If the roots be dry, plunge 
them into a bucket of water for a few minutes before 
planting, Only take out a few at a time, and if you 
have to lay any of these down for a few minutes, put 
them out of the wind and sunshine. If the plants 
have long thick roots, these should be shortened to 
about 9 ins. ; but preserve as many of the fine hair-like 
fibres as possible. Dig a hole sufficiently wide and deep 
to take in the roots of the plant, and put in the bottom 
of it a spadeful of old manure if you have it. On this 
strew a little soil, and then put in the plant. Place a 
little fine soil over the roots, and then add the coarser 
part. Make the ground very firm, and ram it down 
hard, for if any holes be left they would become full of 
water during the winter, which would most probably 
rot the finer roots. Holes and inequalities on the 
surface are open to the same objection, as they collect 
the water in pools, and this sinks down and does 
mischief. Before planting the Eose, it should be 
examined round the collar, just where the root ends 
and the branches begin. Here we often find dormant 
buds from the stock, which, if left, come up in the 
form of suckers during the season ; much trouble can 
be saved by cutting these out. 
Plant your Eoses as near the surface as possible—it 
is a mistake to bury them deep in the ground. All 
dwarf subjects should be planted with the budded part 
about 2 ins. below the surface. Standards should be 
planted with the roots as near the surface as possible. 
All should be firmly staked when planted, as none can 
make roots when rocked about by the wind. Dwarfs 
may have their shoots cut back to about 18 ins., which 
prevents the wind from blowing them about so much. 
If the weather be very dry after planting, the ground 
should be tested, and, if necessary, the plants should 
have a good soaking of water. Another reason I may 
mention why Eoses should be planted early is that 
early orders get the best plants. It is useless to plant 
Eoses where the roots of large trees rob the ground, or 
where the sun cannot shine on them. If they are to 
do really well they must have good soil, fresh air, and 
plenty of sunshine. 
Now the next thing that will engage our attention 
after planting will be pruning. If we want to grow a 
big tree to cover a house, it is useless to keep on cutting 
the whole thing down to the ground year after year. 
But growing a big tree is one thing ; growing Eoses, 
that is, fine blooms, is a very different one. To produce 
fine blooms fit for exhibition, we must cut our Eoses in 
hard—very hard, in fact. When we have finished 
prunmg there should be very little to be seen in our 
Eose gardens. It you examine a shoot or branch from 
a Eose tree, you will notice that wherever a leaf has 
grown there is a dormant bud, which, in time, will 
send out a shoot and become a branch on its own 
account. Now, as a rule, when we prune we do not 
need to leave more than two or three of these buds on 
each branch ; and as these buds are rather numerous 
round about the base of these shoots, it follows that if 
we carry out this rule, we shall cut away nearly all the 
plant. Never mind, the great object in Eose-growing 
is to get ripe buds, for these are the buds that will 
bring us the finest flowers. Naturally the ripest buds 
are those that have been growing the longest time, and 
these are the buds round the base of the shoots. 
Standards must be treated just the same—the shoots 
cut back to about three eyes. I said just now 
that this was the rule, and I have no doubt that if 
those who are here to night, and who have not been in 
the habit of cutting back their Eoses so severely as I 
advise, will do so next spring, I am sure they will be 
satisfied with the result. 
( To be continued.) 
PATSIA JAPONICA (ARALIA 
SIEBOLDII). 
During the winter months great difficulty is often 
experienced in furnishing ornamental-foliaged plants of 
an evergreen nature, and sufficiently hardy to stand 
in dwelling rooms without special protection and 
without becoming disfigured by the lowness of the 
temperature in frosty nights. Some can manage Ficus 
elastica, under the circumstances, by having the leaves 
and stems well ripened before winter ; and Aspidistra 
lurida variegata is acknowledged by all who know it to 
be an extremely hardy and most accommodating plant. 
The same might be said of the subject of our illustration, 
popularly known as Aralia Sieboldii. It is so nearly 
hardy in sheltered spots in the southern counties of 
England that no difficulty is experienced in growing it 
in dwelling-houses, where its hardy evergreen nature 
and its ornamental character might be shown to 
greater advantage than it is at present. The leaves 
are palmately 7—9 lobed, leathery in texture and of a 
dark green colour. On this account the foliage can be 
sponged occasionally, a matter of great importance for 
the well-being and for the appearance of indoor plants. 
Plants are annually raised in great quantities from 
imported seeds. There is a variegated variety which 
some might prefer, but we do not consider it a great 
improvement on the type. 
—-—- 
CHRYSANTHEMUM NOTES. 
New Varieties Certificated. 
In our report of the National Society’s exhibition at 
the Eoyal Aquarium last week, we hardly did full 
justice to Mr. G. Stevens, of Putney, who received 
Fatsia JAPONICA. 
Certificates for several varieties, which, owing to some 
confusion in the placing of the flowers on the stages, 
were credited to another grower. The varieties named 
Edwin Molyneux and Putney George were both shown 
by Mr. Stevens, as well as another sort named Lord 
Eversley, which was also certificated, but not noticed 
by us. Lord Eversley is a sport from Princess Teck, 
and pure white, of beautiful form, and when fully 
developed of course incurved like the type. In the 
young condition the tips of all the central florets are 
distinctly tipped v r ith pale yellowish green, which 
ultimately passes away. It is late and can be kept till 
Christmas, when it comes in useful for decorative 
purposes. Mr. Stevens also received the Silver Medal 
for twelve new varieties. 
Amy Furze. 
The very excellent illustrations of two of the 
finest of the new varieties of Chrysanthemums for the 
year, which were given in last week’s issue of The 
Gardening World, will be of much service to growers 
who are living at a distance from the Metropolis, or in 
neighbourhoods where new kinds are not exhibited the 
first year of their appearance. They, consequently, 
will be able to form some idea of the characters of these 
frequently-mentioned sorts ; and having seen several 
examples of the two flowers in question, I can, with 
pleasure, testify to the draughtsman’s accuracy, and 
the natural manner in which he has depicted Amy 
Furze and Macaulay. With regard to the former, I do 
not see how it can be properly described as a reflexed 
flower. It is true that some of the blooms recently 
shown were much smaller than the illustration given 
last week, and, in such a condition, more nearly 
approached the proper reflexed form ; but, on the other 
hand, when grown strongly and well, it seems, in my 
humble opinion, to be very much more closely allied to 
the Japanese form, and should be classed with those of 
a spreading and drooping-petalled character. The late 
Mr. John Salter, in his incomparable work on the 
Chrysanthemum, gave representations of the various 
types ; and those readers of this journal who possess 
his book will find, on turning to the woodcut facing 
p. 38, the representation of what I have always con¬ 
sidered the ideal type of a reflexed flower. There the 
bloom is as round as an incurved should be, the petals 
short and flat, closely overlapping one another, and, of 
course, it is unnecessary to add, turning just the reverse 
way. Amy Furze does not conform to this type, and 
will eventually, I should say, be relegated to the 
Japanese section, in which there are already many 
flowers of a similar build, and unofficially termed, for 
want of a more suitable name, “reflexed Japs.” I 
sincerely hope that the Editor will see his way to 
continue the good work he has begun by selecting some 
more of the much-valued flowers of the season for 
illustration in The Gardening World. — Chrysanth. 
Tower House, Chiswick. 
As the Chrysanthemum is grown at the residence of 
J. Donaldson, Esq., for decoration only, quantity, and 
not size of bloom is the desideratum. With this end in 
view, the plants are pinched in the summer time with 
the idea of producing a branching top with numerous 
flower-heads. A considerable quantity of tops are struck 
early in summer, and these produce a considerable 
quantity of bloom of a respectable size ; and the plants 
being exceedingly dwarfed by the process, they 
constitute admirable material for first row of groups, or 
for staging on the side benches. The best display is 
made in the conservatory adjoining the house, but other 
houses are occupied by late-flowering varieties, that 
may be expected to keep up a supply at least till 
Christmas. 
Triomphe du Nord was beautifully dwarf, but the 
flower-heads were larger than any we have seen this 
season, and very perfectly formed. Other Japanese 
varieties are well represented by Grandiflorum, 
Duke of Edinburgh (blush-pink), Madame Comte, 
Madame C. Audiguier, Jeanne Delaux, the curious 
slender florets of Tissiphone, Hiver Fleur (very flori- 
ferous), Madame Leon Brunei, Comet, Source d’Or, 
Mons. Tarin, Margot, and Peter the Great. Other 
varieties are Lord Alcester, Empress of India, Mabel 
Ward, Golden Empress, Fingal (lilac-purple), Cassandra 
(white, tinted lilac), and Golden Beverley. The re¬ 
flexed section is well upheld by admirable samples of 
King of Crimsons, Cullingfordii, and the golden, pink, 
and white Christine. Names might be multiplied, but 
the above serve to show the varieties that are grown, and 
that they respond to the cultural treatment they receive 
at the hands of Mr. Bones, the gardener. 
The Ballards, Addington. 
I was much struck the other day when visiting the 
seat of C. H. Goschen, Esq., near Croydon, with the 
splendid display of Chrysanthemums effectively ar¬ 
ranged in the fine conservatory and in other houses. 
Mr. Whittle, the skilled and courteous gardener here, 
evidently takes great pride in his plants, as shown by 
the superb examples (several hundreds) to be seen, and 
many of which carry grand blooms. 
I thought the following particularly striking, viz.: — 
Japanese varieties : Balmoreau, Criterion, Elaine, Fair 
Maid of Guernsey, Harry Townshend, J. Delaux, John 
Laing (extra fine), Madame C. Audiguier, Mdlle. 
Lacroix, Meg Merrilies (extra), Mons. Astorg (fine), 
Peter the Great, Bosa Bonheur, Thunberg and Yal 
d’Andorre. Incurved varieties : Alf. Salter, Bronze 
Jardin des Plantes (very fine), Empress of India, Golden 
ditto, Jeanne d’Arc (very fine), Lord Alcester, Lord 
Wolseley (fine), Mrs. Heale and Queen of England. 
Time not permitting us to tarry long, we had to 
forego a general survey (about which we hope to make 
a few comments later on), though a house of Hamburgh 
Grapes could not help being admired, for it would be 
difficult to find a finer lot. — J. E. L. 
St. John’s Nursery, Putney. 
Some idea may be formed of the display to be seen at 
this nursery just now, from the fact that 6,000 plants 
have been grown this summer for exhibition and 
various other purposes. Mr. George Stevens reckons 
he has between 500 and 600 distinct varieties, which 
would, doubtless, be somewhat bewildering to anyone 
without some knowledge of this favourite and popular 
flower to make a selection for any particular purpose. 
