December 17, 1887. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
247 
ON CORRECTLY KEEPING THE 
NAMES OF FRUIT TREES. 
Every gardener has found this a difficulty, and 
nearly everyone has found for himself a way out of 
that difficulty, though some there may be who not 
caring much for fruit—a very small minority—have 
just contented themselves with knowing the names, 
having them in their memory, but have taken no pains 
to make them sure and safe for the benefit of future 
gardeners, who might, in time, succeed them. Of 
course, I have tried many sorts of labels in my time ; 
and certainly a zinc label written plain with good ink, 
and firmly fastened, is as good as any ; but the diffi¬ 
culty with these is to firmly fasten them, and to do it 
without doing mischief to the tree. If the label is 
fastened to the tree, on the trunk, or on any principal 
branch—-especially so if the tree be young and grow¬ 
ing vigorously—and it be overlooked in examination, 
it may be grown over by the bark ; and when the dis¬ 
covery is made, to get it off, the latter has to be so 
torn that branch or trunk is virtually ringed to its 
ultimate damage. And if the label is hung loosely on 
a branch by any sort of wire, the action of the wind 
week after week will swing it about until the eyelet of 
the label is worn out, and down goes the label into the 
long grass, if the tree is growing in an orchard, or on 
to the soil in the garden, and in both cases is over¬ 
looked, and finally lost. 
Now, I have just gone over all my fruit trees, and 
after ten years of close application have got them 
correctly named (out of about 200 there were about 
twenty named, and these well-known varieties). I 
have made out their positions and names in my 
garden-book, leaving a little space to each, in order 
to insert any remark as to fruiting or grafting which 
may occur in coming years. This will be useful 
to me, and much more so to my successor, whoever 
he may be. How I have done it is thus: The 
bushes in the garden grow by the sides of the 
main walks. Well, I started at a certain positive 
point, making a note of it in the book. Then I began 
■with No. 1, so-and-so Pear, Plum or Apple—say, to the 
left hand—and followed the plan all the way through 
the garden, making a note when any turning to right 
or left was made. I carried out the same in a new 
orchard we have ; but here, as the trees all stand in 
rows east to west, I took these points for my guidance. 
In the old orchard where, during the eighty years 
it has been made, trees have died or been blown down, 
there were not points of compass or walks to guide ; 
but, as the hedges were good and prominent, I made a 
rough outline of them, and then walked up the centre 
of the orchard and indicated on the pago of my book by 
a dot the position of each tree, and entered the name 
just over, under, or around each dot. The greatest 
stranger could, by this rough sketch, find out each tree 
in the orchard, and when found its correct name would 
appear in the book. I throw cut this idea that it may 
assist some other gardener to permanently record the 
names of his fruit trees, and their relative positions.— 
N. H. P. _ 
->X<- 
ARDENING fiOTES FROM 
GOTLAND. 
Plants Valuable for Autumn and 
Winter. —For many weeks during autumn and 
onward to January there are, in most gardens, an 
abundance of cut flowers from Chrysanthemums, which 
are generally, though not always, much in favour with 
proprietors ; but to have all the display from Chry¬ 
santhemums alone lessens their value instead of en¬ 
hancing it, and it is sometimes said that gardeners 
like to grow them because they are so easily managed. 
There is some truth in this; but to propagate them as 
some do, they would accomplish little good where cut 
flowers are wanted by the bushel weekly. We cut some 
hundreds of Chrysanthemums twice a week from 
September to the end of the year, and they are not 
greatly missed from the plants, which are grown to 
large size and are very luxuriant ; but not in propor¬ 
tionately large pots. We often see plants grown with 
a bloom to each shoot, such being suitable for exhi¬ 
bition purposes ; but sometimes, even with such means 
to secure success, the blooms are not very large after 
all, and to say such is an achievement in horticultural 
practice, as alleged by some, we never can be convinced. 
It is widely known that in many of the northern 
towns splendid displays of spring flowers are exhibited, 
and most ardently admired at such an early period of 
the year ; and we are strongly of the belief that a good 
display of flowering plants along with the favourite 
Chrysanthemums would not detract from the latter, 
but give an increased interest to the exhibition. 
Amongst our present kinds, which make the various 
structures as gay as they have been at any time during 
the year, being easily flowered, and giving no difficulty 
in their management, are useful zonal and other 
Pelargoniums. Conspicuous amongst a number of 
kinds are Henry Jacoby, Rev. F. H. Atkinson, and 
the beautiful white Niphetos. Many others—white, 
pink, and scarlet doubles—are at their best, but the 
three first are most enlivening at this late season. 
Roman Hyacinths have been in flower over a month, 
and need no commendation. Primula obconica, which 
has bloomed for more than a year without intermission, 
is still full of flower. Eupatoriums grown from spring 
cuttings are laden with their white blossoms ; but 
large plants that are cut back and grown on do not 
yield such large flowers as the younger plants, although 
they bloom in dense masses. Cinerarias that were sown 
in March are dwarf, and flowering at their best. Keep¬ 
ing them moderately pot-bound till the flowers are 
about to open, then giving a small shift, increases their 
vigour, and gives a long season of blooming. Cyclamens 
are very vigorous, with plenty of flowers, and more to 
come. Many Epacris are at their best, among which 
may be named E. rubra superba, E. impressa, E. 
densiflora, and E. fulgens. 
Camellias are now plentiful, and for early flowering 
C. incarnata, an old double white, and C. imbricata are 
easily had in bloom during November. Some plants 
trained against the back wall of a Yinery are very 
useful, and give little trouble in their management. 
A large plant, 9 ft. high, which we purchased at a sale 
last season and labelled “Double red,” is not that old 
kind, but a large-flowered pink sort that promises to be 
of great value, and only cost us £1. Epiphyllums are 
now in good condition, and very attractive, E. superba, 
E. Ruckeri, and E. salmonium being now in full 
flower. Cytisus and Coronillas are opening, as also are 
Aotus gracillima, Boronia megastigma, Abutilons, of 
sorts ; Acacia armata, Fuchsia serratifolia, Bouvardias, 
President Garfield, V. Lemoine, Hogarth, and Priory 
Beauty. Solanums are exceedingly attractive among 
berried plants, Daphne odora rubra is one of the most 
choice of scented subjects, and Heaths at this season 
are a host in themselves. Erica hyemalis, kept under 
glass and grown freely during the past season, is better 
than the plants which we have purchased. E. gracilis 
and E. Caffra are also useful at present, and red and 
white Lapagerias have been extra fine this year. 
Stocks lifted from the open ground a few weeks ago, 
potted firmly, -well watered and kept close in a frame, 
are now a mass of flowers, and so they are still out of 
doors. East Lothian stocks are a valuable acquisition 
for late flowers as well as for spring supplies when 
grown under glass. Scarlet, crimson, purple, mottled, 
and pure white kinds are equally free flowering. 
These being among the most valued plants which are 
generally grown in a cool temperature, we would now 
briefly note a few favourites in heat (55° to 60°) which 
are flowering very freely, namely, Rondeletia speciosa, 
Plumbago rosea, Scutellaria Mocciniana, Gesnera 
cinnabariua superba, and Gardenias of sorts, old plants 
flowering more freely than the young stock, but the 
latter have larger flowers. Euphorbia jacquini® flora 
is very charming, but often dies off suddenly at the 
surface of the ground ; Poinsettias are better this year 
than usual. The early Begonias are numerous for 
present season, B. manicata, B. nitida, B. Ingrami, 
and B. Sandersi being now in full flower, and will last 
all the winter. We pass over many Orchids which 
will flower for weeks to come, and are a fine show at 
present ; but a few which may be everyone’s plants are 
worthy of note at present and are flowering very freely: 
Calanthes of sorts (C. vestita oculata superba is extra 
good), Cypripedium insigne Maulei, C. Sedeni, and C. 
Spicerianum always flower freely, and require a 
minimum of attention.— Caledonian. 
-- 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
Covering Bare Walls. —Where walls are properly 
economised, every suitable and available space will be 
occupied with fruit trees or should be ; but there 
frequently exists bare or otherwise unsightly or ob¬ 
jectionable walls that might, with great propriety and 
advantage, be covered with beautiful vegetation of some 
kind. Brick walls, even of the dwelling house itself, 
are rendered pleasing and agreeable, and appear greatly 
relieved from the sameness that usually haunt 
structures of that kind when devoid of any attempt at 
ornament. Stone walls are sometimes more difficult to 
cover—according to the nature of the material with 
which they are built and the size of the blocks. Where 
the latter consists of dressed granite, or sculptured 
Portland or freestone, it would be undesirable to hide 
it with climbing plants ; but in London, along the 
valley of the Thames, and elsewhere in districts where 
no stone abounds, houses, walls, and such-like are all 
built of bricks, and admit of a drapery of evergreen 
or deciduous climbers, that have a most pleasing and 
telling effect. Those accustomed to live in towns and 
cities where the houses are built of stone, generally 
devoid of climbers or plants of any kind, have compared 
the walls of southern towns to gardens where a beauti¬ 
ful and lively display of a most interesting kind is 
made. 
Plants Suitable for Walls of Dwelling 
Houses. —By this it is not to be assumed that some 
climbers only will grow in such positions, but rather 
that from their size and otherwise suitable nature they 
are the best that may be grown in such positions. On 
the other hand, provided the aspect is good with regard 
to light and there is sufficient soil for root-room, almost 
any hardy climber will grow satisfactorily and prove 
ornamental. Whatever kind or kinds are used will 
depend on the taste and convenience of the cultivator; 
tall plants should receive precedence, as there is some 
prospect of covering the whole wall with them. The 
use of Ivy for this purpose is very extensive, and has 
the recommendation of being evergreen, and occasions 
little trouble in keeping beyond an annual pruning. 
If a close or neat covering be the desideratum, this 
annual trimming must be given, otherwise a ragged 
appearance is the result from the outgrowth of large 
leaves and loose, projecting, or pendent shoots. The 
broad-leaved, or Irish Ivy, is that most commonly 
used ; but^some of the smaller-leaved kinds, such as 
Hedera Helix palmata, H. H. digitata, H. H. lucida, 
H. H. marmorata, H. H. algeriensis, or H. H. 
lobata major, give greater variety and prove very 
effective when planted so that they may come together 
or even overlap one another. The Virginian Creeper 
and Yitis tricuspidata (Ampelopsis Yeitchii) are well 
known for their beautiful drapery in summer, and 
their glorious bronzy, yellow, golden, and crimson tints 
in autumn. They do best planted in rather poor or 
rubbly soil, which assists greatly in developing their 
autumn tints. The Virginian Creeper is most suitable 
for balconies, where its long rambling shoots hang 
down with rich effect. Around the porch, Cotoneaster 
Simonsii and C. micropliylla are highly appropriate, 
from their profusion of berries that persist all the 
winter if not devoured by birds. The same might be 
said of Crataegus Pyracantha, now a magnificent sight 
at many places. If a cool leafy bower be desired, no 
more suitable subject can be used than Aristolochia 
Siplio, whose leaves, under favourable conditions, 
attain a great size. Cotoneaster mierophylla naturally 
clings very closely to a wall, and grows to a great 
height. Gloire de Dijon, Fortune’s Yellow Rose, and 
some of the many forms of Rosa multiflora, are among 
the numerous class of Roses that may appropriately be 
used. Other climbers suitable for this purpose are 
Clematis montana, C. orientalis, C. flammula, some of 
the numerous hybrids, such as C. Jackmannii, white 
and yellow Jasmine, as well as the winter-flowering 
Jasminum nudiflorum, Wistaria sinensis, and Passiflora 
coerulea. The latter flowers and fruits magnificently in 
the south of England. 
Plants for Low Walls. —Many of those already 
given would also prove appropriate for low walls ; bu 
a great variety exists for selection. If Roses are 
favourites, many of these may be employed to advantage, 
and would furnish an abundance of useful flowers. The 
Japan Quinces, Cydonia japonica and C. Maulei, orna¬ 
mental in flower and fruit, as well as C. sinensis, the 
variegated Ivies, Kerria japonica flore pleno, Euonymus 
japonicus, green and variegated ; E. radicans, and 
Deutzia crenata, with its double-flowered variety, are 
both beautiful and richly varied. Prunus triloba, the 
double pink Cherry, is extremely handsome when in 
■ flower, as is the Austrian Briar in yellow, orange, or 
double forms. Choice evergreen Composites are 
Cassinia fulvida (generally known as Diplopappus 
chrysophyllus), Olearia Haastii, and Choisya ternata, 
the latter having pure white Orange-like flowers of 
great beauty. These are but a tithe of the many fine 
things that are both suitable, easily obtainable, and 
quite hardy in our climate, and if properly cared for 
will give unlimited satisfaction and prove highly 
ornamental,— F. 
