January 7, 1888. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
293 
and fruit very large, being the kind mostly cultivated 
in England ; but it is said to be inferior to the 
Nottingham, with its upright growth, small fruit of 
excellent flavour, which is borne profusely ; and the 
Royal, a free bearer, the fruit of medium size and of a 
nice acid flavour. Miller informs us that in Sicily the 
Medlar rises to be a large tree, with a straight stem, 
and the fruit shaped like a Pear. 
Mr. Grindon gives a curious account of the etymology 
of the term Medlar. “ It occurs first in the old Greek 
herbalists as mespile ; then in Latin as mespilus, which 
in Norman-French became meslier. After the same 
manner, the Low-Latin misculare, to mix, became in 
French mesler, whence the English to ‘ meddle,’ or 
interfere in other people’s affairs, and the substantive, 
a ‘meddler.’ No wonder that before orthography 
was fixed Meslier followed suit and became Medlar.”— 
THE BEST CONIFERS FOR 
PRESENT PLANTING-. 
( Continued from p. 280/ 
The Cluster Pine (P. pinaster) for seaside plant¬ 
ing is unquestionably the best member of the family at 
present in cultivation, and as it thrives well even in 
pure sand, is thus doubly valuable for using along the 
coast. The reclamation of vast tracts of drifting sandy 
wastes in France, as well as Scotland, must be known 
to all tree lovers, and which of itself has caused this 
otherwise worthless Pine to rank high for afforesting 
purposes. The timber produced by this Pine is almost 
worthless, unless, indeed, it be for the most temporary 
uses ; and even as firewood it is held in no esteem. 
As an ornamental tree the rugged grandeur of an old 
specimen P. pinaster is not to be despised, its whole 
contour being majestic and unusual amongst its tribe 
generally. 
The Remarkable Pine (P. insignis) for the less 
cold parts of the British Isles seems to be well suited ; 
but for the northern and colder inland portions it 
cannot be recommended. It is, in truth, a Pine of 
great beauty, its elegant contour and refined feathery 
foliage placing it in the first rank as an ornamental 
tree. For seaside districts it would seem to be 
peculiarly well adapted, and thrives where almost 
lashed by the waves, and in the very teeth of the storm. 
The Swiss Stone Pine (P. cembra) is not of great 
value in a commercial sense, neither is it of rapid 
growth ; but being of compact habit and pleasing 
appearance, is very frequently used in the embellish¬ 
ment of our parks and grounds. It has no particular 
liking to soil of one description more than another, and 
stands a fair amount of rough wind usage as well as 
most of its tribe. 
The above, and those mentioned at p. 280, may be 
considered as about the best Pines for forest planting that 
have been extensively tried in this country. There are 
many ornamental species that wc have omitted ; but they 
are either only half-hardy, or valueless for timber 
purposes. Half a dozen of the best are P. monticola, a 
most distinct and beautiful species ; P. ponderosa, 
with a gaunt appearance, but valuable in its native 
wilds for the timber it produces ; P. rigida, a small¬ 
growing, pretty, and useful timber tree ; P. Jeffreyi, of 
gigantic growth ; P. Lambertiana, a fitting companion 
for the latter ; and P. parviflora, a small-growing but 
highly ornamental species, and one that is particularly 
well suited for planting where space is limited, but 
where, at the same time, a Pine of distinct appearance 
and ornamental aspect is wanted. 
The Giant Arbor-vitas (Thuja gigantea).— This, 
from present appearances, is destined to be one of the 
most valuable of the Coniferous tribe that has yet 
been tried in large numbers in this country. It is of 
very rapid growth, well fitted for withstanding long- 
continued and cold winds, rarely gets broken over or 
upset by the wind, thrives well in almost any soil (in 
Kent we have just noticed that it grows with great 
rapidity in chalky soil), and is readily propagated. 
These good qualities, combined with what we have said 
before in favour of this giant-growing Conifer, will yet 
bring the tree to the front for the purpose of economic 
planting. It is readily raised from seed, transplants 
with great safety, even when of large size, which 
renders it peculiarly well suited for ornamental planting 
or where immediate effect is of paramount importance. 
Lambert’s Cypress (Cupressus Lambertiana) can 
hardly be excelled for planting on the exposed sea- 
coast, where it flourishes with amazing rapidity. It is 
a tree of very ornamental appearance, large proportions, 
and one that from long experience we can confidently 
recommend as being well suited for planting in large 
numbers in the milder portions particularly of the 
British Isles. In many of our sea-coast woods and 
grounds this pretty and distinct Cypress forms nice 
well-furnished specimens in a few years, and affords a 
great amount of shelter to other less hardy kinds of 
trees. This Cypress may well rank as one of the 
neglected British trees, for it certainly does not receive 
the attention that its merits, as proved in this country, 
deserve. 
Lawson’s Cypress (C. Lawsoniana) as an orna¬ 
mental tree is, perhaps, more largely planted in this 
country than almost any other purely ornamental 
Coniferous tree. When well grown and perfectly 
developed it is certainly a tree of great beauty, the 
bright glossy foliage and nicely tilted leading shoots 
rendering it so distinct and graceful. It is perfectly 
hardy, of the freest growth, the easiest of culture, non- 
fastidious as to soil, and in every respect is a thoroughly 
good all-round Conifer.— A. D. W. 
( To be continued.) 
--* 3 =«-- 
OLIVIA MIN I AT A. 
In calling attention to this very serviceable plant, I 
shall not be wrong in saying that it is one that will 
stand any amount of hardship and yet produce a 
display of flowers every year. Its extreme usefulness 
at the present time will be manifest to those who may 
be the lucky owners of good specimen plants of the 
species known as C. (Himantophyllum) miniata. 
The plants grow admirably in a warm greenhouse 
during the summer season, and will generally commence 
to throw up their large umbels of orange-coloured 
flowers about the end of October or through November. 
If it is desirable to have the plants in flower before 
Christmas, they should be removed to stove-heat, where 
they will soon push into bloom. At the same time the 
plants will benefit by a good dose or two of liquid 
manure. Should plants be required to flower at a later 
season, be watchful to see that damp does not settle 
upon the newly-formed flower-stem, which is likely to 
happen, as the close strap-like leaves are favourable to 
holding the damp in their centre, to the detriment of 
the head of flowers they enclose. If the damp should 
lay there too long the umbel of flowers will be spoiled. 
The latter are extremely useful for picking all through 
the winter, and are very brilliant when mixed with 
other flowers. 
Strong established plants do not require potting very 
often ; so long as the dark green colour can be kept in 
the foliage the plant will take no harm, if it be 
supplied with liquid-manure during its growing period, 
and again as it comes into flower. "When the plants 
have been flowered in the stove at this time of the year 
it is well to let them make their growth there also, 
ultimately removing them to the greenhouse during 
the spring months. 
The genus has yet a brilliant future before it, the 
new forms that are constantly appearing being a great 
improvement on the older ones. A large specimen 
well flowered is a sight worth seeing. — IV. G. 
--- 
THE CULTIVATION OF THE 
CHRYSANTHEMUM. * 
As the Rose is considered to be the queen of the 
summer flowers, which undoubtedly it is, so I claim 
for the Chrysanthemum the title of the queen of the 
autumn flowers. The Chinese or incurved section was 
introduced from China somewhere about the year 1764, 
but it seems to have found little favour till within 
the last twenty or thirty years. The later introductions 
from Japan have had much to do with the popularity of 
exhibitions, owing to the striking appearance of the 
flowers either on the plant or when cut. 
Having met with a fair amount of success both as a 
cultivator and exhibitor, I will now proceed with what 
I believe to be the best mode of cultivation. From the 
middle of December till the first week in January I 
consider to be the best time to commence propagation. 
As there are so many varieties cultivated, it is necessary 
for the beginner to make a selection of the best and most 
popular sorts before starting, which is easily done by 
noting down at the exhibitions sorts most generally 
staged by the most successful competitors, and I would 
advise growing only a limited number of sorts, according 
to requirements. I have tried several methods of 
striking, but have found the safest and best way is to 
devote a light or two of a pit, divided by a temporary 
wooden partition, with hot-water pipes running through, 
*A paper read by Mr. E. Beckett, gardener to H. Hucks 
Gibbs, Esq., at a meeting of the St. Albans Horticultural 
Society on Thursday, December 15th, 18S7. 
filled with finely sifted coal ashes up to as near the 
glass as the pots will allow. I very much object to a cold 
frame, for the reason that owing to the bad weather we 
are likely to get at this season, it is necessary to keep 
them shut up and covered, perhaps, for weeks together. 
Hence they must suffer from damp, mildew, &c., and 
at the same time remain in an almost dormant con¬ 
dition ; but to obtain satisfactory results, the plants 
should be kept in a healthy condition from the time 
the cuttings are put in until the flowering season. 
Treatment of the Cuttings. 
The soil to be used for striking should consist of two 
parts light fibrous loam, two parts leaf-soil, with a 
good addition of sharp silver sand ; use large 60-size 
pots, with a little moss or rough loam placed over the 
drainage to keep it clean and sweet. Fill the pots 
moderately firm, and place a little silver sand over the 
top ; insert four cuttings in each pot. For a few weeks 
they will require very little attention, except a 
sprinkling overhead on those mornings when the 
weather is bright. Some sorts will be found to root 
much quicker than others ; these should be taken out 
as they commence starting into growth, and placed 
either in a cold frame or on a light airy shelf in the 
greenhouse, at the convenience of the grower. The 
whole stock should be ready for potting into large 
60-size pots by the end of January or the first week in 
February ; arrange them in a cold frame facing south, 
on a bed of coal ashes. Soil for this potting should be 
the same as before advised. Thoroughly water in and 
keep close for a few days, taking care to protect them 
from frost. Air freely as they commence to grow, and 
remove the lights on all favourable occasions during the 
day. Nothing tends to strengthen and keep them in 
good health like fresh air when in a young state. 
By the last week in March they should be ready for 
potting in 6 -in. pots. The soil should now consist of 
two parts of good fibrous loam, one part well-decayed 
horse or cow-manure, one part leaf-soil, with a good 
addition of coarse sand and a few J-in. bones placed 
over the drainage. Place a neat stake to each plant 
and return them to the cold frame, treating them as 
before mentioned. At the end of April, if the weather 
be favourable, move them outside to a sheltered position. 
The final potting should be made the first or second 
week in June. I recommend 8 -in. pots, which are 
large enough for most kinds. A few of the strongest- 
growing kinds may be put into 10-in. pots. The 
compost for this potting should be three parts good 
loam, one part decayed manure, with a good addition 
of bone-meal ; drain well, using a thin layer of fibre, 
taken from the loam, over the drainage, which should 
be clean crocks and 5 -inch bones. If the soil be in a 
good state it is impossible to pot too firmly. The most 
suitable and convenient place during the summer 
months is an open airy position by the side of a walk, 
where they get the full benefit of the sun during the 
whole day ; if neatly arranged and kept tied they are 
far from being unsightly. 
Thinning and Disbudding. 
Attend to thinning out the shoots, allowing but three 
or four to a plant, according to strength and variety. 
Taking the buds is a source of great anxiety even to the 
most experienced cultivators, as sorts differ so much 
as to the time it takes them to expand. Experience 
alone can make one perfect in this ; but generally for 
those that are required about the middle of November, 
I have always found from the last week in August to 
the second in September the best time. From three 
to six flowers only should be left ; if extra large blooms 
are desired, the central bud must always be left. Dis¬ 
budding should be performed by a steady hand and 
keen eye. By the first week in October all should be 
safely housed. When first taken in, allow them as 
much room and air as possible ; as they get acclimatised 
they may be stood as close together as the pots will 
allow. Watering, when required, should be done in 
the morning. A little fire-heat in damp cold weather 
will greatly help to improve the quality of the flowers, 
particularly the Japanese, and with a little top ven¬ 
tilation will act as a preventive against the damping of 
the petals, which often plays sad havoc amongst mas¬ 
sive flowers. 
Dwarf-trained Specimens. 
Strong plants should be selected early in February, 
and placed near the glass in a growing temperature ; 
when about 6 ins. high pinch out the points, shifting 
into 6 -in. pots when commencing to break. Still keep 
them in the same temperature, and when becoming 
established remove to a cold frame. Admit air on all 
favourable occasions ; syringe the plants early in the 
afternoon. When required, place in 8 -in. pots, and 
