January 21, 1888. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
331 
his own efforts to improve himself, for of encouragement 
or aid from his superiors there is none. The conclusion 
drawn from these remarks is, that something must be 
done to counteract the French and German competition, 
and the sooner the better for the British gardener. 
The closing lines of your article are characteristic of 
the case when you say, “ It is absolutely certain that 
if horticulture in this country is to extend, it will only 
be by its workers keeping pace with that progress in 
enlightenment which is marking all other trades and 
vocations.”— F. R. S. 
Veiteh’s Early Forcing Cauliflower. 
This is undoubtedly the most useful Cauliflower for an 
early supply which any one can grow. To have it fit 
for use by the end of May seed should be sown in heat 
at once in pans ; prick out into boxes as soon as they 
get into the rough leaf, and in due course harden off into 
cold frames and plant out on south borders 14 ins. each 
way. Ever since we made the acquaintance of this 
variety we have given up autumn solving, and wintering 
the young plants in frames for an early supply.— H. J. 
Our Young Gardeners. 
I w r As pleased to notice the editorial query, p. 314, to 
the assertion of “ D. C.,” unfavourably comparing 
British gardeners in point of intelligence, general 
knowledge, and refinement to others of the artisan 
class, a statement which I think can scarcely be borne 
out by positive facts, although I most heartily 
sympathise with, and admire the laudable motives by 
which he is evidently actuated, viz.:—To rouse the 
British gardeners as a class to a high sense of their 
position, and to stimulate them to greater energy and 
self-development. Young gardeners are made of the 
same material as other young men. There is really 
but a small percentage of them who, by their applica¬ 
tion to study, are capable of taking a leading place. 
As the boy is, so is the man ; only a few in the class at 
school go to the top, and the same thing is evident as 
they emerge into manhood, and the higher callings of 
life. It is only human nature. Many masons, 
carpenters, painters, &c., are first-rate workmen, can 
handle their tools well, and as such can command 
respect, and get on well; but how few of them go into 
the higher technicalities of their calling. There is 
this difference between them and gardeners that the 
former, being good handicraftsmen, can command good 
work even with little education (of course he would be 
better if he had it); the gardener finds the want of it a 
serious detriment in carrying out his work, as it is 
absolutely necessary to study well in order to become 
efficient. Besides being able to handle his tools well 
he must obtain a knowledge of plants, fruits, soils, 
&c., and if he can go into some of the different sciences, 
and bring them to bear practically upon his work, so 
much the better for him. He will be more likely to 
shine in his profession, and it is this compulsory 
education 'which will always obtain for the gardener a 
fair leading place amongst the artisan class. Young 
gardeners have not the advantages which, in these 
times, they ought to have, and this is due to want of 
organisation; but I believe this will be remedied in the 
near future. Signs are not wanting. In some localities 
gardeners are bestirring themselves. We cannot afford 
to be behind. I cannot bring myself to think with 
“D. C.” that “we may in the near future contem¬ 
plate an intellectual famine to fall upon us.” As I 
gather from his remarks, the rising generation are 
likely to be inferior in intellectual ability to those who 
have gone before. We must acknowledge that the 
education of the masses (young gardeners included) is 
far superior to what it was a century or even half a 
century ago ; and although but few will be able to 
boast of the same classical education which is accredited 
to “Andrew” in Sir Walter Scott’s Fob Roy, we may 
at least venture to say that there is every prospect 
that the rising generation of gardeners will be able 
to hold their own in point of education, ability, and 
general intelligence against the old school of gardeners. 
— Alfred Gaut, Copped Hall, Totteridge. 
A Showy Blue-berried Plant. 
The botanical name of the plant under notice is 
Psychotria cyanococeus, and by no means calculated to 
become popular with those who object to names derived 
from Latin and Greek. The unusual colour of the 
fruit is such, however, as we seldom see amongst any 
class of plants, especially in winter, and might well 
argue for a place amongst other berried plants now 
enlivening the stove. I refer to Ardisia crenulata, its 
white-fruited variety, A. mammillata, Callicarpa pur- 
purca, and many others that might be mentioned. 
The species of Psychotria belong to the same family 
as the Cinchona, and are by no means characterised by 
showiness of their flowers ; but the species under notice 
merits cultivation from the deep blue colour of its 
fruit, which is even more highly tinted than that of 
Coccocypselum discolor belonging to the same family. 
—J. 
Siphocampylus Humboldtianus. 
If a bright bit of colour is desired for the stove in 
winter, those 'who do not already possess this easily 
grown Peruvian Lobeliaceous plant should give it a trial. 
It forms a branching and bushy low 7 shrub, generally 
about 15 ins. in height, although specimens may be 
grown to a considerably larger size. The neat habit of 
the plant, and when kept clean, which is easily done 
when well cared for, constitutes it a very desirable 
subject for the stove or warm conservatory, where the 
bright green of its leathery persistent leaves contrast 
with the more common occupants of that structure. 
Flowers are freely produced in the axils of the upper 
leaves, and last for a considerable time in perfection. 
They are tubular and curved, as implied by the generic 
name, and rich scarlet in colour, with an orange throat. 
The anthers are violet, protruded beyond the flower, 
and united in a cylinder like a painter’s brush around 
the stigma., and bear evidence by their union in this 
w r ay of an affinity with the Lobelias. Flowering speci¬ 
mens may now be seen in Air. B. S. 'Williams’ Nursery. 
Cucumber for Exhibition. 
I should be obliged if some of your readers would tell 
me which is the best Cucumber to grow in a frame for 
exhibition during the months of July and August. I 
have tried Telegraph.— H. 2V. 
-- 
THE CULTURE OF CATTLEYAS 
AND LFELIAS.—III. 
The temperature of the houses should be carefully 
regulated so as to avoid sudden changes, and be kept 
sw r eet by proper ventilation and moisture. During the 
months of January, February, March, and April the 
day temperature may be 60° to 65°, falling to 55° at 
night. During May the temperature should rise 5°, 
and in June, July, August, and September should be 
from 70° to 80° by day and 65° by night. In October 
it should be from 65° to 70° by day, falling to 60° at 
night. In November and December 60° to 65° by day 
and 55° at night will be proper. These figures may be 
taken as a general guide. Sometimes from local cir¬ 
cumstances, or in severe weather, it would be better to 
allow a fall of 5° than try to keep up the temperature 
with over-heated pipes. 
Staging the Plants. 
It is sometimes laid to the charge of Orchids that 
they are stiff-looking and unattractive when out of 
bloom. This may be partly true of some of the genera, 
but whether true or not, the appearance of the plants is 
always improved by being associated with Ferns. The 
rich colours in the flower of a Cattleya poised behind 
a plant of Maidenhair, or the graceful spike of an 
Odontoglossum bending over one, are both set off to 
the best advantage ; so that among the plants and 
along the edge of the stage should be a few Adiantums, 
the front of the under stage should be draped with 
such plants as Ficus repens, Panicum, or Isolepis, and 
any bare places on the ground may be planted with 
Selaginella, which gives a fresh and tidy appearance 
to the house. In most houses of considerable size the 
temperature varies slightly in different parts of it; and 
it is almost needless to say that the plants coming from 
the warmest latitudes should be placed where there is 
more heat, and vice versa. By a little manoeuvring of 
this sort, and by placing those requiring the greatest 
amount of light near the glass, the whole of the species 
may be grown together with a considerable amount of 
success. 
Insects. 
The insects which attack Cattleyas and Leelias are 
mealy-bug, scale, thrip, and occasionally green-fly on 
the young growths. The two former may be removed 
by sponging with pure water, or by using some safe 
insecticide. A pointed stick is sometimes necessary to 
dislodge scale, and care should be taken not to bruise 
the foliage. Thrip and green-fly can easily be destroyed 
by fumigating with tobacco-paper, or by steaming 
with tobacco-juice, which is safer and far more effectual. 
Of late a new pest has appeared—a sort of fly called 
Isosoma orchidearum, or Cattleya-fly. This attacks 
the young growths and roots of Cattleyas and Lcelias 
generally, the base of the pseudo-bulbs becoming 
swollen where the maggots are feeding. These, when 
matured, change into flies, and escape by a small 
opening, when, if not destroyed, they will, in turn, 
deposit their eggs on fresh plants, and so spread over 
the whole house. I have never seen this unwelcome 
visitor ; but on one occasion I had the opportunity of 
seeing the result of its work. Mr. O’Brien, who claims 
to have first noticed it, says that the only remedy is to 
carefully go over the plants, and ruthlessly cut off and 
burn every growth that shows signs of having been 
bored, and by hunting and catching the fly. 
Cockroaches and woodlice also attack the roots, and 
should be looked after at night with a lamp and 
destroyed. Strict attention should be paid to keeping 
the plants free of insects, as however well their culture 
may be attended to otherwise, no collection will long 
remain healthy where these pests are allowed to 
multiply. The first appearance of any species should 
be the signal for prompt measures being taken to have 
them exterminated. 
I have now endeavoured to describe briefly the 
cultural treatment of the Cattleya and L®lia, the 
necessary appliances, and also to enumerate the insects 
which attack them ; but within the limits of a single 
paper it is impossible to set down every little detail, 
and some, as in other branches of the gardener’s art, 
can only be learnt by experience. Still, Orchid 
growing is not the mystery it once was, and amongst 
the section treated in this paper there are not many 
that are miffy or difficult to grow. Perhaps the most 
difficult to manage is C. superba, which does best on a 
block of wood or tree-Fern stem, or in a basket with 
live sphagnum moss, and delights in an abundance of 
heat and moisture, with more of the latter at the roots 
when at rest than other Cattleyas. C. Dowiana, 
C. gigas and C. Eldorado also do better with more heat, 
and should be grown near the glass to induce them to 
flower freely. 
Those requiring to be grown in the cooler parts of 
the house are C. Skinneri, C. "VYalkeriana and its 
varieties, and C. citrina. The latter is very distinct 
from all others, and succeeds best when grown with 
the Odontoglossoms, giving it very little water at the 
roots. The plant should be tied to a block of wood or 
piece of cork with the leaves hanging downwards, for 
in its native habitat it is found growing on the under¬ 
side of the branches of trees. Amongst Lidias requir¬ 
ing cool treatment are L. acuminata, L. albida, L. 
anceps, L. autumnalis, L. furfuracea, and L. majalis. 
Those which maybe termed the Mexican Alpine section 
need plenty of light and air, and are impatient of 
much moisture at the roots ; neither should they have 
much potting material about them. These are the only 
species that occur to me to want special notice as to 
culture. 
"Watering and Damping the Houses. 
Cattleyas and Lidias do not require so much moisture 
at the roots as Odontoglossums or East Indian Orchids. 
During the growing season, water may be given two or 
three times a week, regulating it according to the root 
action of the plants. Those on blocks or in baskets 
will require watering oftener, and should be dipped in 
a pail of water, allowing them to drip before hanging 
them up over the heads of ocher plants. Small-growing 
varieties should never be allowed to become very dry at 
any time, for when the pseudo-bulbs become shrivelled 
it is difficult to restore them, and injury is often done 
before it is noticed. Newly-imported plants are better 
when kept comparatively dry till the roots are well 
advanced. During the resting period the plants will 
require very little water, and only sufficient to keep the 
bulbs from shrivelling should be given. 
(To be continued .) 
-- 
GARDENERS’ ROYAL BENEVO¬ 
LENT INSTITUTION. 
The annual meeting of the subscribers to this insti¬ 
tution was held on the 13th inst., at “Simpson’s” in 
the Strand, Mr. Harry J. Veitch, the treasurer, pre¬ 
siding. The minutes of the previous meeting having been 
read and confirmed, the secretary, Mr. E. It. Cutler, 
read the report of the committee and statement of 
accounts (as published in our last number). The com¬ 
mittee congratulated the subscribers on the great 
success which had attended their labours during the 
year, and especially upon the happy results of the 
collection made in aid of the special Jubilee grant, 
which brought in a clear sum of £677 12s. 2d., and 
this amount, together with the donations received at 
