January 28, 1888. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
343 
made of 1 in. yellow deal. The legs are well spread 
out to keep the hive from being moved by the wind. 
The outside cover is 20 ins. square, is made of £ match¬ 
boarding, and in three divisions. Bound the base of 
each division, and overlapping for 1 in., is a strip of 
hoard 2 ins. wide ; this fits over the pieces below, and 
prevents draughts from entering. On the front part of 
the lower tier is a cover to keep the alighting board 
dry, and it has a groove along the lower edge to run 
the water off; and under this cover is arranged the 
sliding doors for regulating the width of entrance. It 
maybe opened to 8 ins., or closed to allow only one 
bee to enter or leave at a time. The top is covered 
over with zinc to keep them thoroughly dry in winter. 
The inner box, or hive proper, is made to take as 
many as ten standard bar frames, which are 14 ins. 
long by 8£ ins. deep (outside measurement). The top 
bar will project 1 in. at each end, and rests on a strip 
of tin or zinc fastened along each end, and about £ in. 
above the wood. This arrangement keeps the bees 
from fixing the frames with propolis, making them 
difficult to move when required ; but when they rest 
on the zinc there is little danger of this. The thickness 
of the top bars may be J in.; the sides, \ in. ; and the 
bottom, £ in. in thickness ; and 1 in. wide. "When 
they are arranged in the hive ready for the bees, each 
bar frame will occupy exactly 1| in. To keep the frames 
at this distance apart there are a great many different 
contrivances in use — from staples to the broad- 
shouldered frames. I use a strip of wood J in. square 
across each top corner, hut one on the reverse side from 
the other. This helps to strengthen the frame, and 
answers the purpose of keeping the frames at the 
requisite distance apart. 
The next work requiring to be done will be to fix the 
comb foundation in the bar-frames. The most con¬ 
venient way to do this is to have a saw-cut along the 
centre of each top bar of the frame in which to . insert 
the comb foundation ; it may, however, be fixed along 
the centre of each bar-frame by melted beeswax. Where 
the comb is intended for brood, use the thick comb 
foundation, as this will save the bees a large amount of 
work, and, what is of more importance, it saves time 
at, it may he, the honey season. 
Let us now turn to the swarm, and suppose they 
have just settled on a bush or tree. Allow them time 
to settle, then take a straw hive, turn it upside down 
and place under the bees, and when you have them 
over the hive and as well into it as you can, give the 
branch a sharp shake and the bees will fall into the 
hive. Place the floor-board on the hive and gently 
turn the latter into its natural position, placing it on 
some kind of stand as near to where the bees swarmed 
as is convenient. Eaise one edge of the hive about an 
inch, and very soon all the bees will find there way in 
and soon commence work. If they light on the trunk 
of the tree or where you cannot get the hive under 
them, place it as near to them as you can and with 
your hands gently draw them into the hive and pro¬ 
ceed as before stated. 
It may be well to caution beginners in bee-keeping 
to provide themselves with a bee veil and gloves, which 
is often all that is wanted to give confidence to the 
operator. My first experience in assisting the hiving 
of a swarm of bees was rather amusing to the onlookers, 
but not so to me. The bees had swarmed, and they 
had to be hived. One of the under-gardeners knew all 
about hiving them and I was to assist him. I got the 
hive and was told to put it under while he shook them 
into it, which he did in a very leisurely manner, 
sending the bees buzzing about ; one settled on my 
face and stung me, but I was told to “ Never heed it, 
but stick to the hive.” This I thought rather cool 
advice under the circumstances ; but the bees were 
safely hived and did all right. I took the precaution 
after this of using a veil and gloves until I learned 
something more about the temper and habits of bees. 
It is always advisable to feed the new swarm, which 
should be continued for a fortnight or three weeks if 
the bees will take it. This will greatly assist them 
until their numbers are increased by the addition of 
young bees. If the swarm is a strong one eight frames 
will be sufficient for them to start with, and as they 
get the comb foundations drawn out add the other 
two. As these get drawn out and covered by bees, the 
supers may be added. "Whether we decide to use 1 lb. 
or 2 lb. sections, the arrangements will be the same, 
except that the crate for 1 lb. sections will hold twenty- 
eight, and for 2 lb. sections twenty-one. 
The crate will allow § in. between the bar frames 
and supers, to give room for the bees to get up. Some 
of our apiarians use perforated zinc to put on the top of 
the bar frames, which only allows the working bee to 
pass through, thus preventing the queen access to, and 
laying eggs in the supers. But this in practice is 
seldom necessary. If it does occur, the sections having 
brood can be removed and their place filled with others, 
and the perforated zinc put on. I find the bees take 
more readily to the supers without it. If the supers 
are intended for exhibition, each section will require 
to be divided by thin boards, or sheets of tin about 
three parts the depth of section ; this enables the bees 
to keep their comb more regular, and greatly improves 
the appearance of the honey in the sections.— A. 
Wright, Devonhurst. 
( To he continued.) 
otes from Scotland. 
Mildness of the Season.— It may interest you, 
as showing the character of the season here, so far, to 
know that on Saturday last I cut a few heads of 
Veiteh’s Autumn Giant Cauliflower in fine condition, 
and which had no protection whatever beyond their 
own leaves .—John Downie, Edinburgh. 
Banff Horticultural Society.— The annual 
general meeting of the Banffshire Horticultural Society 
was held on Friday, the 20 th. inst., Mr. Lyon presiding. 
The secretary (Mr. Gordon) submitted the accounts for 
the past year, from which it appeared that the balance 
in hand at the present time in favour of the association 
was £14 8s. Id. Much satisfaction was expressed at the 
favourable state of the balance sheet. The Duke of 
Richmond and Gordon and the Earl of Fife were re¬ 
elected presidents for next year, and the lady patron¬ 
esses, vice-presidents, and committee were also re-elected 
with some slight alterations. Mr. Anthony A. W. 
Gordon was re-appointed secretary. Arrangements 
for the summer show were deferred. 
North of Scotland Horticultural Associ¬ 
ation. —The usual fortnightly meeting of the members 
of this association was held in the Music Hall Buildings, 
Aberdeen, on Friday evening, 20tli inst. There was a 
good attendance, and Mr. James Cocker, senior, pre¬ 
sident of the association, occupied the chair. A 
lengthy paper on “New Plants,” written by Mr. 
James Douglas, Barking Side, Ilford, was read by Mr. 
Robson, an honorary vice-president of the association. 
After giving it as his opinion that the great proportion 
of the new plants introduced during recent years were 
not equal to those already in cultivation, or not 
sufficiently distinct from them, the writer reviewed the 
plants that had been produced last year. The paper 
-was a most interesting one to the profession, and, on 
the motion of the chairman, it was agreed to forward 
the thanks of the association to Mr. Douglas. Mr. J. 
Henderson, "Wellwood, then gave a very instructive 
paper on “ How to Maintain a Continuous Supply of 
Flowers from January to January.” An animated 
discussion followed, taken part in by many of the 
members, after which a vote of thanks was accorded to 
Mr. Henderson. 
Peas.— Many still prefer running the risk and 
trouble of raising their first crops of Peas by sowing in 
November. To persuade some old practitioners out of 
their pet system is impossible. To do the work well a 
favourite spot is chosen, well sheltered and fully exposed 
to the sun ; a damp position is fatal to success. The 
ground should be well broken, and if the drills be 
drawn deeply and filled to the level with chopped 
turf or other kindly soil, the seed soon vegetates and 
roots strongly downward ; a covering of fine free soil 
over the seed is very helpful to success. A dusting of 
red lead next to the seed renders it less tempting to 
mice and other vermin. As soon as the young tops 
begin to show themselves through the soil, a good 
sprinkling of charcoal dust, sand or fine ashes is of 
much service as protection to the tender growth. 
Staking, with ordinary branch stakes, should be 
performed in good time, to act as “ breakwinds. ” 
William the First, Carter’s First and Best, and some 
others come in about the same time. Kentish Invicta 
and Sangster’s No. 1 are reliable kinds, if not so early 
as others by a few days. The system which is most 
satisfactory in many parts in raising early crops of Peas, 
is to sow thickly in boxes, pans, or pots, using turfy 
loam or rough leaf-soil at the bottom, and cover the seed 
with finer soil. Mere protection is all they require, 
coddling being fatal to success. Absence of air or light 
render the young plants useless, and when planted out 
a handful of kindly soil placed with the roots gives 
them a good start. No doubling of roots or unnecessary 
separation of them should be allowed. Our crops sown 
during January last season were in first for use, and were 
in every sen.se the most satisfactory.— Caledonian. 
-->:£<-- 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
Window Plants in Winter. —My neighbours make 
frequent inquiries about plants suitable for windows, 
and which maybe kept in a healthy presentable condition 
even in the dull and dreary winter months when little 
or 'nothing is to be seen out-of-doors. Again, some 
cannot understand why their India Rubber Plant died, 
while it apparently flourished grandly in another 
window close by. This latter question may be answered 
in various ways. One point to be observed is its 
condition as to the ripeness of the wood in autumn, as 
upon that depends the amount of cold it will bear in 
severe or frosty weather when kept in dwelliDg-rooms. 
The best season to obtain a plant would be in spring, 
when it should be encouraged to commence growth. 
Give it all the light possible, and towards autumn 
induce it to go to rest by partly withholding water. 
This encourages ripening, and make3 it hardy, so to 
speak. Full exposure to light should not be overlooked, 
especially in winter. Sponge the leaves occasionally to 
free them from dust, and remove from the window 
altogether during very frosty nights. 
Aspidistra ltteida, with its variegated form, is 
much hardier than the India Rubber Plant, but is 
perhaps more expensive to buy, on account of its slow- 
growing habit, and the difficulty of increasing it at a 
rate to meet the demand. By carefully attending to 
watering, especially in summer, and by sponging the 
leaves occasionally to keep the surface clean and the 
pores open, both plants may be kept in the window for 
years together, so hardy are they, and so durable even 
in the dry atmosphere of a room. 
Ferns. —Many and frequent are the complaints 
made about the Maidenhair Fern (Adiantum cuneatum), 
for that is the name of the kind most frequently grown, 
and that sold in the market. Amateurs will have it, 
and who can blame them ? but it is useless trying to 
keep it in a fresh and evergreen condition beyond a 
certain time in the arid atmosphere of a room, unless 
specially protected by a bell glass or close case. The 
thin texture of the fronds is incapable of resisting 
continued drought, which explains their perishable 
nature. Ferns most suitable for the atmosphere of 
dwelling houses for any lengthened period must be 
somewhat leathery in texture, to resist the effects of 
their uncongenial surroundings; and have also a smooth 
surface in order that they may easily be cleaned. Ferns 
such as Polystichuin angulare are beautiful and ex¬ 
tremely hardy, but unless great care be exercised with 
them it is next to impossible to keep them clear of 
dust. The washing necessary to do this would inevita¬ 
bly spoil their appearance by rubbing off the scales 
■with which they are more or less densely clothed on 
both surfaces. 
In'selecting Ferns, then, for window culture in -winter 
aim at getting those that are sufficiently hardy for the 
purpose, whose fronds are smooth, leathery, and ever¬ 
green. Their enduring character will also depend 
greatly on the amount of exposure to which they have 
been subjected while making their growth. Cyrtomium 
falcatum and C. caryotideum may occasionally be got 
in the market ; but Pteris serrulata and its crested 
varieties, especially that named P. s. 'compacta, P. cretica, 
and its variegated forms make excellent window plants. 
Those who are most alive to the occasion will be 
careful to get these plants in summer, or before the 
season is quite over; for by so doing they become accli¬ 
matised to window culture, by a gradual hardening of 
their tissues before winter. In this lies a great deal of 
the secret attaching to window gardening, especially in 
winter. Plants which come directly from the market- 
grower’s hothouses to the window of the amateur must 
inevitably suffer from the effects of a low temperature. 
They are hurried on in warm houses in order to get 
them into flower as soon as possible, and are therefore 
ill adapted for the sudden change. 
Hyacinths, Tclips. —Those who grow their own 
plants of this character will he best supplied, from the 
fact that the treatment can be given them which is 
most in accordance with the comparatively low tempera¬ 
ture of dwelling-rooms and also their dry character. 
As the plants develop their crowns in the frames where 
they are covered with ashes, they should he removed 
and placed in the window or other position where they 
will receive the greatest amount of light. Should fires 
be kept on in the room the plants will come on more 
