652 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
June 9, 1888. 
recommend them to the attention of the growers. 
When fully expanded the broad blunt perianth 
segments stand erect, forming metallic looking cups of 
great rigidity, and judging from their substance last a 
long time in perfect condition. 
Hollies at Leith. Walk Nurseries. 
Accidentally dropping into Messrs. Methven’s nursery 
the other day, while the workmen were busily engaged 
in shifting Hollies, I was struck with the splendid— 
I may say unprecedented—quality of the roots. A 
whole border, which was shifted under the very un¬ 
favourable weather of the past few weeks, seemed little 
the worse for the change. Mr. Mathieson informed me 
that every Holly in the place is subjected to a removal 
each second year, and an additional supply of prepared 
compost applied to the roots. The consequence is that 
these plants can be safely lifted and transplanted at 
almost any season of the year, with little fear of 
injury. The balls that adhere to them are composed 
of solid masses of turfy material densely interwoven 
with minute fibrous roots. The large specimens rise 
with good compact balls, similar to Rhododendrons, 
incurring little or no labour beyond the removal of a 
few spadesful of soil to loosen the ball. All that 
remains afterwards to be done is to draw or prise the 
plant out of its bed. I could not refrain from 
remarking how immensely superior these Hollies were 
to the apparently fine plants lately offered for sale by 
auction at the ill-fated Lawson Nurseries. Many of 
them had remained undisturbed for several years. 
Among this fine collection at Leith Walk, I observed 
the following perhaps not very common kinds in the 
green form :—Myrtifolia, whose tiny foliage has greater 
resemblance to a Pernettya or Cotoneaster than a Holly 
at first sight. Latispinus, a very characteristic variety, 
with a few bronze-coloured spines, is certainly, on 
account of its deep olive-green shade, a unique form, 
deserving of a place in every Holly collection. Cam el- 
lisefolia, though not by any means uncommon, is 
deserving of notice owing to its suitability for standards 
and pyramids. It is also very often mistaken for 
Nobile, but for why it is difficult to see, as they have 
scarcely any resemblance to one another. Besides 
these, the unexcelled Hodginsi, Fructu-luteo, Caro- 
liniana, Doningtonense, Ciliatum majus, Ciliatum 
minus, Laurifolia, Nobile, Dahoon, Platyphyllum, 
Alcicorne, &c., were conspicuous in the collection. In 
the variegated section, I noticed Regina, Moonlight, 
Handsworthensis, Lawsoniana, Pictum aureum, Lati- 
marginatum argenteum, Ilex balearica, I. b. nigrescens, 
I. b. variegata, and Myrtifolia aurea, among many 
more equally as good.— D. Chisholm. 
A Bracteated Bluebell. 
Amongst the ordinary forms of the English Bluebell 
(Scilla nutans) growing in the neighbourhood of 
Sevenoaks, Kent, several 1 distinct varieties are occasion¬ 
ally met with, such as the pink and the white. A 
very curious and botanically distinct variety has been 
transferred to his garden by Mr. De B. Crawshay, 
Rosefield, and although now out of flower it has a very 
distinct appearance from those of the ordinary form 
amongst which it is planted. The bracts subtending 
the individual flowers are all much longer than in the 
typical form of the species, and more herbaceous in 
texture ; but the lowest one attains a length of from 
6 ins. to 9 ins., and resembles a leaf. The base of the 
larger of these bracts become swollen and concave on 
the inner face, as if undergoing transition from a bract 
to a bulb leaf. 
Imantophyllum—Clivea, &c. 
It must have been very soothing to the two or three 
of our self-constituted directors in botanical matters, 
who had so definitely settled for us that Clivea or 
Clivia was to be the name, and the other more generally 
in use was to be dropped, to note the scores of instances 
in which the word Imantophyllum appeared in the 
schedule and official catalogue of the great Ghent 
exhibition, and the entire absence of the term Clivea. 
As a clencher, it was advanced by these individuals 
that although the name Imantophyllum was generally 
used in the British Isles, the term Clivea was always 
applied to the genus on the Continent. And now, just 
as the little ultimatum would be supposed to have 
taken effect, behold, by the official catalogue of the 
Ghent exhibition, that the united knowledge of some 
of the best talent in Europe has declared for Imanto¬ 
phyllum, and that, too, on the ground where Clivea 
held sway. Oh, the perversity of human nature, and 
especially of the nature of those who know plants.— Ebor. 
[Nowhere, perhaps, is the perversity of human nature 
more exemplified than in botanical matters, and 
especially with regard to the nomenclature of plants. 
In this case the facts may be stated as follows :—In 
July, 1828, a plant flowered at Syon House, which was 
“supposed to have been one of the discoveries of Mr. 
Bowie at the Cape of Good Hope.” It was figured and 
described by Dr. Lindley in the Botanical Register, 
t. 1182, under the name of Clivia nobilis, the genus 
being named Clivia in compliment to the Duchess of 
Northumberland, whose family name was Clive. The 
same plant, or a form of it, for the two plates differ in 
colour, which also flowered at Syon House, was described 
and figured by Sir W. J. Hooker in the Botanical 
Magazine, t. 2856, under the name of Imatophyllum 
Aitoni. The question which now arises is this :—If 
the law of priority is to be upheld, which of these two 
generic names was first published ? On this point we 
find an interesting statement in the Botanical Magazine, 
t. 4783, accompanying a plate and description of 
Imantophyllum miniatum. The name of Imato¬ 
phyllum is noted as being incorrect, and Sir W. 
Hooker further states:—“It was unfortunate that 
the plate of I. Aitoni appeared on the same day on 
which the same plant was figured by Dr. Lindley in 
the Botanical Register. The name may, we think, 
thus with propriety be transferred to the present genus, 
a near ally of, but certainly distinct from Clivia.” In 
this we should be inclined to agree, as the two plants 
are sufficiently distinct for garden purposes, though 
botanically the distinctions—I. miniatum having a 
wider, more spreading and erect perianth, with 
diverging stamens, than C. nobilis and C. Gardeni—are 
too trivial to be accepted as a reason for separating 
them. Still, it would be hard to say which of the two 
names was published first, and the continental 
authorities have as much right to consider Himanto- 
phyllum (for that is the way Sprengel in his Genera 
Plantarum renders it—the name being derived from 
two Greek words) the correct name, as Bentham and 
Hooker have to say that all should be included under 
the generic name of Clivia. Another generation of 
botanists, wanting something to do, will probably 
disagree with Lindley, the Hooker’s, and Bentham, 
and invent something else.—E d.] 
-~>X<-- 
The Gardeners’ Calendar. 
THE STOVE. 
Bouvardias. —As the weather gets warm these may 
be removed from the stove if it has not already been 
done, and placed in cold frames for a time at least to 
harden them off. Keep the frame close till they get 
inured to the lower temperature ; but as the weather 
gets warm the lights may be altogether removed, exposing 
them even to the dews of night, or equally good results 
may be obtained by standing the pots on a bed of 
ashes in a sheltered place, and shaded from the fierce 
glare of the sun during mid-day. Stake the shoots as 
it becomes necessary. Some growers pinch the tops 
off the strong shoots that spring from the base of the 
plant after it gains strength, with the intention of 
making the plants close and bushy. Much larger 
trusses of flowers are, however, obtained from those 
strong shoots that are allowed to run up with little or 
no check. If intended merely for cut flowers better 
results would be obtained by allowing the shoots to 
grow away vigorously. Cutting off the terminal trusses 
of flowers causes laterals to develop lower down, and in 
their turn to become fit for use. 
Balsams. —The best results are obtained from these 
fragile and soft-wooded subjects when they are con¬ 
tinually kept growing till they have attained the 
required dimensions. Full exposure to light, 
abundant supplies of moisture and properly regulated 
ventilation are essentials in the cultivation of the 
common garden Balsam. Early sown batches should 
now be fit for their final shift or approaching that 
stage. "Well-decomposed but turfy or fibrous loam 
should be used, together with a dash of sand to keep 
the soil porous and open. The roots of these subjects 
grow and ramify very rapidly, consequently they should 
not by any means be potted hard. The best show of 
bloom is obtained by picking off all the early flowers as 
soon as they make their appearance, and by tying out 
the lateral branches so as to encourage a branching, 
bushy habit, and short-jointed growths. Maintain a 
moist atmosphere by damping down the paths and 
stages, keeping the plants themselves well syringed to 
keep down insect pests. 
THE GREENHOUSE AND FRAMES. 
Chinese Primulas. —The earliest batch of these, 
whether potted off singly from the first, or grown in 
pots or pans, should now be nice little plants with a 
few leaves, and if not already accomplished should be 
potted into 3-in. pots, and returned to the frame, where 
they should be kept cool by ventilation and light 
shading. Never allow the plants to become dry, 
although careful attention is at the same time necessary 
to guard against saturating the soil till it becomes sour 
and unfit to sustain a healthy root action. Hairy 
leaves like those of Primula chinensis should not be 
watered overhead when it can be avoided. 
Cyclamens. —The old plants that are considered 
worthy of preservation should now be resting, but not 
in a baked condition as they used to be treated. 
"Water just sufficiently often to keep the foliage in a 
healthy condition, and the soil from getting so dust 
dry as to kill the roots. When it is intended to save 
seed it is well to remember that the largest and best 
are obtained from plants carrying but two or three pods 
each. Finer seedlings are had from large and plump 
seeds. The early batch of seedlings intended for 
autumn and winter flowering should be kept growing 
by maintaining the soil in an equally moist condition, 
a moderately warm temperature, and by shading the 
young plants during the heat of the day. 
THE FRUIT HOUSES. 
Peaches. —Little or no artificial heat will now be 
required by the ripening fruit, unless the weather 
should prove temporarily clouded, moist, and con¬ 
sequently prove comparatively cold. If the latter 
should be the case, then by all means maintain a genial 
warmth in the pipes, as a good circulation of the air is 
thereby secured, which is of the utmost importance to 
the proper ripening and flavouring of the fruit. On 
dull days and during the night those kinds that have 
not yet accomplished or completed their second and 
final swelling should be treated in the manner recom¬ 
mended. Damp down those houses that are approach¬ 
ing their final stage during the middle of the day only, 
and if there is danger of the border getting dry, mulch 
it with good rotten dung, provided that has not already 
been done. Check all gross growths from which fruit 
cannot be expected, and tie in those intended for next 
year’s fruiting. A less rigid system of treatment may 
be allowed after the early crops are gathered. In order 
to prevent the trees from maturing their leaves and 
buds too early, they should be fully exposed night and 
day during warm weather, so as to keep them as cool 
and quiescent as possible all through the heat of 
summer. 
Melons. —Water Melons very carefully as they 
approach maturity, and not at all during the last 
stages of ripening, otherwise the fruits are liable to 
split, owing to the overgorging of the tissues with 
moisture. _ 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Celery. —The ground having been in readiness for 
some time, no delay should be made in getting the 
main crop planted. If it has not previously been done, 
a good quantity of well-rotted dung should be dug into 
the trenches, and in so doing fresh or moist soil will be 
brought to the surface, to which the newly-transplanted 
roots will readily take—a matter of no small importance 
during dry weather. As soon as planted, give a good 
watering. 
Seed Sowing. — The principal things requiring 
attention in this way at the present time are Lettuce, 
Endive, Radishes, and similar things used for salading. 
During the prevalence of dry weather, it will greatly 
assist the germination of the seeds if they are covered 
with a coating of straw till they make their appearance 
above ground. Radishes require frequent sowings for 
succession, as they soon become stringy during dry hot 
weather. Make sowings of Peas, Scarlet Runners, and 
French Beans to come in for late use. Coleworts for 
winter use may also be sown now. 
Planting Winter Stuff. —Lose no opportunity of 
getting all plants intended for winter use put into the 
ground while it retains moisture, as the longer such 
work is delayed the more difficult it is to get the plants 
established. Last year fully testified to the danger of 
waiting for rain, while none came for many weeks, and 
matters only got worse. Use the thinnings of Leeks 
for transplanting, especially where the breadth sown is 
insuflicient for the requirements of the place. Reduce 
the growths on newly-planted Sea Kale to a single 
crown, as the young shoots that come from roots 
cannot all be properly developed. 
