682 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
June 23, 1888. 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
Late Peas. 
A sowing for late autumn use should be made during 
the latter end of this month, especially in early districts 
and sandy light soils, where the crop soon runs to fruit 
and altogether stops growing. This was particularly 
the case last year, owing to the long-continued pre¬ 
valence of drought; and although we may not have a 
similar experience for some years to come, yet in light 
soils, and in the southern counties especially, provision 
should he made to secure a supply of one of the best 
of vegetables till severe frost puts an end to growth 
late in autumn. The vigour of growth is sustained, 
and the attacks of mildew greatly prevented, by sowing 
the Peas in trenches. These should be taken out to a 
spade’s depth, and a quantity of manure be dug in. Any 
water that may afterwards be applied readily soaks 
into the recently-disturbed soil instead of running off 
the surface. Partly fill up the trench and sow the 
Peas, afterwards covering them over—not necessarily 
deeply, as they will germinate more quickly, and can 
then be gradually earthed up as they grow. Stake 
them after the latter operation, so as to assist in keeping 
away the birds. 
Vine Pruning. 
Frequent complaints are made that in houses these all 
run to wood, and do not produce fruit in proportion to 
their growth. Owing to the interlacing of growth that 
takes place, it is simply impossible for fruit to be pro¬ 
duced in any abundance, while quality is altogether 
out of the question. If the object be to obtain as great 
a number of bunches as possible, they must of necessity 
he moderate in size ; but if well ripened and finished, 
the quality may greatly surpass that of the large- 
berried sorts so popular in the market, grown solely to 
please the eye rather than the taste. The great fault 
of the amateur is that he is afraid to cut away any 
wood at all, so that the foliage becomes densely 
crowded, obstructing the light, thus keeping the leaves 
small and thin, which all tends to prevent the wood 
from getting thoroughly ripened. It is impossible 
then to expect a good crop next season from immature 
growth. The rods should at least be 3 ft. apart, 
training them straight upwards to their supports. 
From these the laterals should be allowed to proceed 
till the young bunch makes its appearance, when its 
point may be pinched off above the second leaf beyond 
the bunch. Secondary laterals will again be pushed 
out, all of which should be cut back above the first 
leaf. Some shoots may altogether fail to produce 
flowers, and, of course, must be restricted to that space 
in which the whole of the foliage can be exposed to the 
light, the object being to secure a healthy leathery 
condition of the leaves and the ripening of the wood. 
If they have been neglected till now, and allowed to 
get into a tangled mass, they should not be rigorously 
pruned back in the manner mentioned, but merely 
kept thinned and pinched to admit the light till 
winter, when they may he pruned to within 1 in. or 
2 ins. of the main rod, and closely attended to next 
year from spring onwards. 
Thinning the Grapes. 
This is an extremely easy matter, provided a few simple 
directions be attended to. Do not touch the berries by 
the hand, as by so doing they inevitably get irreparably 
damaged by rubbing off the bloom and bruising the 
tender skin. If the bunch has to be held at all take 
it by the stalk, when it may he partially turned round 
if necessary with the finger and thumb. "With finely- 
pointed scissors in the right hand, cut away those 
berries towards the centre of each branch of the bunch 
that are likely to become crowded when they swell. 
A little practice will render the operation easy, and 
rather than make the branches too thin, choose to do 
them twice over at short intervals. 
ChRSSANTHEMUMS. 
Unless wanted to flower very late the plants should 
now receive their final shift, that is, be put into their 
flowering pots. For the stronger-growing kinds 9-in. or 
10-in. pots will be sufficient, unless the plants are 
grown to large size for the purpose of making trained 
specimens, when 12-in. pots will be requisite. Pom¬ 
pons can be grown in 8-in. pots, and fed with liquid 
or some artificial manure as the roots become pot-bound. 
This feeding is necessary if large blooms are desired, 
the largest, of course, being obtained from the crown 
bud, that is, from those stems which have been allowed 
to grow on unstopped till they terminate in a flower- 
head. Generally, however, the stems are stopped once 
or twice till three or six shoots are obtained, which give 
a greater number of blooms from the same quantity of 
plants. 
Tail-grown plants, although requisite to obtain large 
heads for exhibition, are objectionable for conservatory 
decoration, and those who are content with moderate¬ 
sized blooms may obtain them by another process. 
Cut the plants down to within 6 ins. or 9 ins. of the pot, 
and the stems will then throw up a number of side 
shoots. Keep the plants moderately dry for a time, so 
as not to destroy the roots in this leafless condition, till 
they break afresh, when they may be put into their 
flowering-pots, and allowed to grow on. When treated 
in this way short stems are produced, rendering the 
plants very suitable for conservatory or greenhouse 
decoration. Naturally dwarf-growing kinds are ren¬ 
dered still dwarfer by this operation, and those who 
have not yet given this system a trial will find the 
plants so treated extremely suitable for grouping, either 
at exhibitions or for the purpose above mentioned. 
They also retain their foliage down to the very pot 
for a long time after they come into flower, provided 
they have been kept in the open air. 
Propagating Hardy Plants. 
The best time to propagate many hardy plants is 
during the summer months, when they are in full 
growth, or rather as the young shoots are getting firm. 
Some there are, however, which strike most readily 
after a time of hot weather, which causes procumbent 
and creeping or trailing plants generally to throw out 
roots, or when put into sandy soil and kept moist will 
do so readily. After a dry time, however, if the young 
shoots are allowed to become firm and wiry, it is a 
difficult matter to root them at all. Fire-heat can also 
be dispensed with in the case of these hardy subjects, 
and all that is necessary is to make up a bed of light 
sandy soil on some shady border, or where it will be 
screened from direct sunshine ; otherwise the hand- 
lights may be shaded during bright weather, taking 
care to remove the shading material at night, or as 
soon as the sun is weak enough to render covering 
up unnecessary. Be it remembered that the less 
shading that is used the better, provided the sun is not 
powerful enough to cause the cuttings to flag. 
Pansies, if put on a north border, will strike root 
without any frame or handlight, provided they are in 
a shady position ; but of course they root much more 
rapidly if covered for a time. They may, however, be 
propagated for weeks to come, and the time occupied 
by propagating such things as double Wallflowers, 
Erysimum ochroleucum (generally called Cheiranthus 
alpinus), and the orange-coloured E. Marshall! The 
latter requires frequent propagation, as the plants are 
liable to die after flowering, and they never produce 
seed. Fuchsias intended for bedding out next year 
should now be propagated so as to get established 
before winter, when little or no fire-heat is then neces¬ 
sary to keep them. Euonymus, China and other Eoses 
may be treated in the same way, and a host of hardy 
subjects, both herbaceous and Alpine, of which the 
amateur may be possessed. By giving a little attention 
to this matter, the operation not only becomes ex¬ 
tremely interesting, but furnishes any quantity of 
useful plants at practically no cost whatever. 
-—- 
CHOICE SPECIES OF ROSES. 
The Silky Kose. 
Those who admire single Eoses should strive to obtain 
this Himalayan species, which was first introduced from 
Gossainthan to this country, though at what date does 
not appear. It is figured in Lindley’s Monograph of 
Roses , t. 12, but apparently from dried specimens, as he 
describes the flowers as pale red with a query. At all 
events, as now seen in our gardens they are pure white, 
similar in size to those of the wild Scotch Eose, but 
neither tinted with pink nor yellow. The petals are 
more often four than five, suggesting the name Eosa 
tetrapetala, which is sometimes applied to it, although 
the accepted name is E. sericea, on account of the 
silky covering of hairs on the under side of the leaves, 
which are composed of from seven to eleven small 
leaflets, not unlike those of the Scotch Eose, and 
therefore very pretty. It was first described as a 
shrub, ranging from 4 ft. to 6 ft. in height; but when 
planted against a wall, for which it forms a vefy suitable 
covering, it attains a height of 6 ft. to 9 ft. The 
flowers are produced singly but plentifully all over the 
plant, so that a good specimen forms a beautiful object. 
It produces fruit abundantly in this country, and 
might, therefore, be taken in hand and improved. 
The Alpine Eose. 
An interesting peculiarity about this species (Eosa 
alpina), is that the branches are unarmed, that is, they 
do not bear thorns. The foliage is neat and refined 
in appearance, furnishing a beautiful background to 
the flowers, which are borne singly on the stems and 
branches. They are similar in size to those of E. 
sericea, or smaller, and blush coloured in the commoner 
wild form, but the colour is variable, as well as 
the botanical characteristics of the plant, and forms 
occur even in a state of nature with bright rose-coloured 
flowers. It is a native of the Alpine regions of various 
parts of Europe, including Austria, France, Bohemia, 
Switzerland and the Pyrenees, and is, therefore, 
perfectly hardy. 
Lady Banks’s Eose. 
The stems and branches of this beautiful Eose are 
spineless, as in E. alpina, but the habit and appearance 
of the two are quite distinct. "When trained against a 
wall, which it should be, seeiug that it is naturally a 
climbing species, with slender stems, the latter grow 
from 10 ft. to 30 ft. in height. From these stems, 
lateral, slender and twiggy branches are produced, 
which hang down gracefully at some considerable 
length, covering the wall with a living greenery of 
great beauty. The umbellate clusters of small double 
white flowers produced at the end of the shoots are 
drooping, and therefore hang down gracefully on 
slender peduncles, so that they are brought in full 
view to the eye of the beholder. Unfortunately the 
Eose in question (E. Banksue) does not like the smoky 
atmosphere of town gardens, such as that of London, 
for although it grows freely enough, flowers are but 
sparingly produced. Out in the country, however, it 
does much better, and is now flowering freely at 
Sunningdale, near Virginia Water. The small size of 
the flowers gives the appearance of a double Cherry 
rather than a Eose, and they are therefore very suitable 
for buttonhole or bouquet work, for which they are 
furthermore rendered valuable on account of their 
delicious odour, resembling that of Violets. There is a 
buff-yellow variety in cultivation, but it is not so 
pretty as the white one, which, when cut and aUowed 
to dry off, becomes of a pale yellow hue. 
The Three-leaved China Eose. 
This is the Eosa Sinica of botanists, and derives its 
name from the fact that the leaves usually if not 
always consist of three leaflets, which are ovate lance¬ 
shaped, finely serrated, and drawn out to a point. 
Although it belongs to the same group as the Banksian 
Eose, the stems, petioles and midribs of the leaves are 
prickly, while the flowers are very much larger, pure 
white and produced singly from the apex of short 
branches. It was originally introduced in 1159, and 
is therefore a much older introduction than Lady 
Banks Eose, which made its appearance in'Britain in 
1807. There is a figure of it in Lindley’s Roses, t. 10. 
It is a Chinese species, perfectly hardy in this country, 
and forms a sub-evergreen rambling shrub of great 
beauty, especially in the eyes of those who take par¬ 
ticular delight in single Eoses. 
The Scotch Eose. 
Nothing illustrates the passing nature of fashion 
amongst Eoses, or, indeed, amongst plants and flowers 
generally, than the neglect which the Scotch Eose 
(Eosa spinosissima) now suffers, compared with the 
popularity it enjoyed some forty or fifty years ago, or 
even more, when some 300 varieties of this Eose were 
recorded as being procurable in the Glasgow nurseries. 
Probably the popular name was derived from this Eose 
being grown in such enormous numbers, and from their 
having originated in the Scotch nurseries rather than 
that the wild plant is confined to Scotland, for it seems 
as plentiful in the south and west of England, and even 
in the Isle of Wight, as it does in any part of Scotland. 
An immense number of the garden forms are double, 
forming beautiful little Eoses, especially in the bud or 
half-expanded state. The first double one was found 
in the neighbourhood of Perth, and since then many 
new varieties were obtained by raising them from seed. 
A remnant still exists in some old-fashioned gardens, 
especially planted out in the shrubberies, where they 
constitute very ornamental objects with their graceful 
briar-like foliage, and flower profusely.- 
Tiie Scarlet Austrian Briar. 
The foliage of the typical form of the species is rather 
more graceful than that of the variety here mentioned 
—namely, Eosa lutea punicea—but the two-coloured 
nature of the flower is extremely interesting, the outer 
