698 
THE GAKDENING WOELD 
June 30, 1888. 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
Vines on Walls. 
If good, crops are expected, Vines—even outdoors—must 
not be allowed to get into a wild and tangled condition, 
otherwise their strength will be diverted into the pro¬ 
duction of wood and foliage rather than fruit. Not 
only would this be the case, but the crowded state of 
the shoots and foliage interferes with the proper ripening 
of the wood, as well as prevents the sunshine from 
acting upon the fruit, so as to bring it to maturity in 
our short season. Thin away or shorten the rods not 
bearing fruit, and those that do so should be pruned at 
the second or third leaf beyond the bunch. Train-in 
strong shoots from the base of the plant if there is 
still plenty of room on the wall for extension laterally, 
as well as the leading shoots of the old rods. This 
will divert the energies of the Vines to the proper 
maturing of the fruit they now bear, besides preparing 
them for next season’s work. If dry warm weather 
prevail, with cloudy days occasionally, mildew may 
give trouble, especially if the vigour of the Vines is 
impaired by drought at the roots. From this point of 
view, it will be well to give occasional heavy waterings, 
and if liquid manure be given at times, so much the 
better. 
Strawberry Borders. 
The flowering season is now over, or almost so. The 
crop, to all appearance, will not be a heavy one, judging 
from the comparative paucity of bloom ; but the best 
of the circumstances may be made by timely attention 
now. Strawberries require a considerable amount of 
water to enable the fruit to swell properly, so that if 
the late fine rains we have had, have not been general 
and dry weather succeeds now the crop will be almost a 
failure in many places, unless watering be resorted 
to. The best time to apply the water is after sunset— 
that is, during the cool and most pleasant part of the 
day. Give a thorough soaking, not a mere dribbling or 
sprinkling overhead. If a hose-pipe can be attached to 
some water supply the watering can be done effectually, 
without entailing so much hard labour as a large 
plantation would require if done by buckets or the 
watering-pot. Those who have taken the precaution 
to mulch their beds, borders or squares will find it a 
great advantage to the plants, as well as retaining the 
moisture given. Liquid manure would assist materially, 
and it matters not whether the latter consists of the 
drainings of the stable dilated, or of that made by 
putting a quantity of manure into a tank or tub of 
water, and then drawing off the liquid portion. 
Many of the plants have come blind this season, or, 
in other words, are perfectly barren. Whether or not 
this is the result of last year’s growth is questionable. 
On the other hand, Strawberries are often inclined to 
be male and female, producing no fruit, even although 
flowers are formed. All these plants should be marked 
at the present time, and in selecting runners for young 
plantations those from barren plants should be care¬ 
fully avoided. 
Border Pinks. 
No garden should be without these good old-fashioned 
things, which may be planted in beds or borders at the 
convenience of the grower. The old double pink 
varieties that used to be frequent in villa gardens are 
extremely fragrant, and still worth growing ; but many 
new kinds have been obtained, which are undoubtedly 
great improvements. A large double white variety 
named Mrs. Sinkins produces a profusion of bloom that 
is scarcely if at all surpassed by any subject of the same 
size. The exhibition varieties are, however, extremely 
interesting and beautiful. Their quaint and striking 
delicacy, as well as the richness of the markings of 
others, are not to be ignored. In constitution, how¬ 
ever, they are not so hardy as the border varieties, 
which are grown for decorative purposes. An old 
favourite is Anne Boleyn, and rather stronger in con¬ 
stitution than most of them. The amateur, however, 
who wishes to get an abundance of bloom for the 
ornamentation of his garden or for cut flowers, need 
not be deterred from growing in quantity anything 
that is free flowering and useful, leaving florists’ 
flowers alone if he cannot manage them. 
Propagation can be effected either by means of seeds, 
cuttings, or layers. The first method is pursued with 
the view of obtaining new varieties, so that seed may 
be saved from the best, marking them with a piece of 
matting, or better, by means of labels recording their 
qualities during the flowering period. Great interest 
is attached to the raising of new varieties, and anyone 
can practise it. Good varieties worthy of preservation 
are propagated by cuttings, generally termed pipings, 
and by layers. The latter method secures the best 
plants, but in the case of Pinks it cannot always be 
practised on account of the shortness of the shoots, and 
the number of them in a given space ; therefore, this 
useful subject is propagated in greater quantity by 
means of pipings. The best time to take them off is 
when they begin to get firm. Cut them close below a 
joint, and trim off one or two of the lower pairs of 
leaves and carefully dibble into a bed of loam, leaf-soil, 
and a considerable quantity of sand. If an old hot¬ 
bed be used so much the better, or a fresh one may be 
made up of fermented manure. No great depth of the 
latter need be made, as it would get too hot for the 
purpose. After the cuttings have been firmly put in, 
give a good watering to settle the soil about them, and 
place a frame or handlight over the bed according to 
the quantity required. Keep close at least for a week, 
and shade from strong sunshine during the day till the 
pipings show that they have rooted, or are about to do 
by making fresh growth. Treated in this way they will 
make nice plants to be planted out in autumn or spring. 
Window Plants. 
With the advent of warm weather again all subjects in 
exposed places such as windows and balconies require a 
great amount of additional watering if they are to keep 
up a good show. Lobelias, Pelargoniums and Petunias 
make a magnificent display in those places, but they 
must not be neglected if grown in pots, otherwise the 
blooms will be very short-lived. During bright and 
warm days as well as when the wind is breezy, it will 
often be necessary to water twice a day. Once a day, 
and that in the evening, will be quite sufficient for 
plants in boxes as well as baskets, as the soil there is 
not liable to get so hot or dry in a given time. A dry 
atmosphere is extremely well suited for the Lobelia and 
the Pelargonium that come from the Cape, but if not 
properly watered they are liable to run to seed or play 
themselves out. Pelargoniums would be greatly 
assisted by the use of liquid manure, or a sprinkling of 
some of the many artificial manures that may be had. 
Fresh vigour may be infused into the plants if they are 
pot-bound by re-potting them. This, however, should 
be practised chiefly in the case of young stuff in small 
pots, and which is required to grow on to good size. 
Use good material, enriched with some well-decomposed 
cow manure, ground bones or bone-meal, care being 
taken in every case not to overdo it. Feed old plants 
of Fuchsias and Pelargoniums as above recommended 
rather than re-pot them. 
The Greenhouse. 
During summer the pleasures of the outdoor garden 
sometimes lead to the neglect of the greenhouse, but 
if the latter is properly managed, it should be a source 
of attraction at all seasons of the year. There should 
now be a wealth of Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, Hydrangea 
hortensis, H. paniculata, Harrison’s Musk or the 
common kind, and a host of things at anybodys’ com¬ 
mand, and easily managed by those who give them a 
small amount of attention. But outdoor plants that 
might with profit be grown to perfection indoors would 
lend a charm to a collection, which can only be 
properly known to those who attempt them. Some of 
these are Saxifraga, Cotyledon pyramidalis, Campanula 
isophylla, C. Portenschlagiana, C. garganica, and its 
varieties, together with annuals such as Rhodanthe 
Manglesi, Downingia pulchella, Chinese Asters, Stocks, 
as well as Primula sikkimensis, now getting common, 
and others which the observant amateur may pick up 
from time to time. The Campanulas mentioned are 
particularly suitable for greenhouse culture, and lend 
a charm to the whole house. They never look better 
than when grown in small baskets or pots and hung 
up to the roof. 
HARDY PLANTS IN FLOWER. 
Lychnis Sieboldi. 
This is a Japanese Lychnis, with large white flowers— 
a very handsome species, and well worth growing either 
in the sheltered part of the rock garden or on a warm 
border. Plants should be well established in pots 
before being put out, as young ones and seedlings are 
liable to be eaten off by slugs. When the leaves get 
older they are covered with soft down, and are not so 
attractive to these pests as they are in a young state. 
Cypripedium spectabile. 
A clump of this grand plant should have a place in 
every garden where hardy plants are grown. The 
culture is simple, provided that a start is made with 
good clumps, and a suitable position is found for their 
reception. Our plants are growing on a north border 
in a mixture of peat and turfy loam, and are flowering 
well in that position. The flowers rival many of the 
tropical species in their colouring of white and rose, 
especially the rosy carmine of the inflated lip. It is a 
native of North America. 
Delphinium nudicaule. 
A dwarf species not so well known as the larger- 
growing ones. The flowers are bright red, produced in 
a loose-growing raceme. The whole plant does not 
grow more than 18 ins. high, and is well adapted for a 
warm position on the rockery. In the ordinary border, 
unless well cared for, it is apt to get lost—last winter, 
especially, we lost a large number of plants : this, 
however, I believe to be partly due to the heavy 
nature of our soil. On light sandy loam it ought to 
behave better. The species is so distinct that it is 
worth growing, even if it has to remain a cold-framed 
subject. 
Lychnis yiscaria splendens plena. 
This is a very desirable plant, handicapped with an 
ugly long name. The plant is dwarf-growing, and neat 
even when out of flower, but at this season it is one 
mass of bright rose colour. The flowers are large and 
very double, arranged closely on erect and rather 
slender stems. The best flowers are obtained from 
young plants by carefully propagating the offshoots in 
the autumn.— J. W. 0., Pinner. 
Paradisia Liliastruji giganteum. 
The two long beds in the Pine Apple Nursery of 
Messrs. Hooper & Co., at Maida Vale, have been 
for some time very gay with this fine old-fashioned 
flower. 11 is best known under the name of Anthericum, 
but the whole aspect of the plant, size and structure of 
the flowers are very different from those of the true 
Anthericums represented by St. Bruno’s Lily (An¬ 
thericum liliago). The Paradisia in question has more 
the general aspect of the flowers of a Hemeroeallis. 
The varietal name has been given on account of the 
greatly improved size of the flowers—as, indeed, the 
whole plant—the difference being made very evident by 
contrast with a quantity of the common form grown in 
another bed by the side of the giant variety. The 
opinion seems to prevail in some quarters that it is not 
quite hardy ; but there can be no doubt on this point, 
seeing that it lives in the ordinary border without pro¬ 
tection many miles north of the Tweed. Drought in 
summer is more likely to be disastrous to it unless 
planted in moderately moist soil. 
Crambe cordifolia. 
Whether in the herbaceous border of the better kept 
part of the garden, or in the pleasure ground, this 
plant is a striking object on account of the handsome 
proportions it attains; and in the wild garden, if 
planted in deep rather rich and moist soil would soon 
prove at home, and form one of the most conspicuous 
objects at this season of the year. The leaves are 
mostly radical and heart-shaped, as the name implies, 
and they are green, not glaucous as in the common 
species, the Sea Kale of the kitchen garden. The 
stems divide into numerous long divaricate branches, 
covered with myriads of white flowers that diffuse a 
strong but agreeable odour for some distance round. 
As seen in the mass, these flowers, although small 
individually, have an exceedingly graceful and pretty 
effect, besides being uncommon. There is a fine 
specimen of it at Chiswick, in the gardens of the 
Royal Horticultural Society. 
-- 
Gardening ||iscellany. 
Salvia patens alba. 
The typical blue form of this Mexican species is a 
grand thing in whichever way it is used, but the white 
variety is equally beautiful, and ought to be grown in 
conjunction with the species. The flowers individually 
are of great size, but not of long duration ; therefore, 
if a continuous supply is to be kept up, the bedding- 
out system is the most advantageous way of growing 
it, simply because, having ample room to spread, it 
continues to throw up suckers all through the growing 
season, and these coming into flower from time to 
time, a long succession is maintained. Then by 
growing the blue and the white together there would 
be contrast certainly, but an extremely agreeable and 
pleasing one to the eye. The white variety does not 
seem to be at all common, but we noticed a bed of it 
in Messrs. H. Cannell & Sons’ nursery, Swanley, Kent. 
