778 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
August 4, 1888. 
fm Amateurs’ Garden. 
Removing Faded Flowers. 
Many growers do not trouble themselves about 
removing flowers, or the young fruit, unless the 
former are actually required for use when at their 
best. If not intended for seed saving all flowers 
should immediately be removed from such things as 
Sweet Peas, Tropaeolums, Pelargoniums, that are 
naturally inclined to produce fruit, Roses, Candytufts, 
Dahlias, and annuals generally. By so doing there is 
no loss of vital energy by the production of seed, and 
the plants are able to go on making fresh growth, and 
developing fresh flowers over a much longer period 
than if seed were allowed to mature. The production 
of seed is far more exhaustive to the soil than flowers 
are, from the fact that nitrogen and various mineral 
ingredients which plants have difficulty in obtaining 
are stored up in the seed, resulting in exhaustion not 
only to the plant, but also to the soil, so that there is 
a double loss to the cultivator, in allowing seed-pods 
to be developed when in reality they are not required. 
Besides this, the plants have a fresher and more sightly 
appearance when all decaying flowers are promptly 
removed. 
Propagating Pelargoniums. 
In many cases the amateur will have difficulty in 
getting cuttings at this early season wherewith to 
prepare for the next, owing to the unsatisfactory growth 
made by the plants. Others more favourably circum¬ 
stanced will have no difficulty in this respect if they 
started with good-sized plants, which will now afford 
some cuttings, even although they are almost fiowerless, 
owing to the heavy and almost incessant rains. The 
advantage of propagating at this time is that it may be 
done in some out-of-the-way corner of the garden, 
where they will root and be ready for potting up in the 
autumn before the advent of frost. Prepare the 
cuttings in the usual way by dividing immediately 
beneath a joint, and removing one or two of the lower 
leaves, according to the length between each. Take 
out a shallow trench, into w'hicli a small quantity of 
light sandy soil may be put, and the cuttings laid in 
carefully against the upright side of the trench, 
covering up the lower part with the made soil, and 
then fill in the trench, treading firmly. A simpler 
method may be employed where few cuttings are 
required by digging a piece of ground, and using a 
quantity of light material to work into the upper 
2 in. or 3 ins. of the natural soil. Into this the 
cuttings should be dibbled firmly in lines, but not too 
closely, otherwise damping will be liable to ensue 
during wet weather. Little or no attention will be 
required unless the weather proves dry and warm till 
the cuttings are well rooted, when they may be lifted 
and potted off, after which, unless the season be far 
advanced, they may be stood out of doors till frost 
necessitates their being put indoors. 
Rose Cuttings. 
Those who are fond of Roses may propagate their own 
by grafting in the spring, by budding, and by cuttings 
at the present time. In the latter case use side shoots 
of moderate length, and just as the wood is half 
ripened or sufficiently firm to support itself without 
withering, otherwise they will damp off before they are 
able to form roots. Take off the cuttings with a slight 
heel, and dress the cut neatly with a sharp knife, at 
the same time removing some of the lower leaves to 
prevent too great evaporation. A close frame may be 
used in which a layer of 4 ins. of light sandy soil may 
be put, mixing it with a good proportion of leaf-soil. 
Make the soil quite firm, and dibble the Roses into it, 
pressing the soil closely around the base of the cutting. 
Give a thorough watering to settle the soil, and shut 
up the frame close, shading from sunshine, although 
the light may be admitted at all other times. If a 
small quantity only is required, use a hand-light or 
bell-glass, as the case may be. Another method may 
be employed—namely, by dibbling each cutting 
separately into a thumb-pot, which should be plunged 
in sand or ashes in the frame. Carefully mark each 
sort with a number or a label bearing its name, so that 
the operator may know what he is doing when planting 
them out in spring. 
Stocks for "Winter. 
A sowing of Ten-week Stock may be made now for 
flowering in the greenhouse in winter. Sow in a box 
or pan of light sandy soil, and as soon as the seedlings 
are up, keep them near the glass to prevent drawing, 
and ventilate during the warmest part of the day. As 
soon as they make a rough leaf or two—or even before 
if they show any signs of damping—prick them off 
into a box of rather richer or more substantial soil. 
When they have formed nice stocky material they may 
be potted off singly into 60’s, and plunged in ashes or 
coco-nut fibre to prevent a too rapid evaporation of the 
moisture, and enable them to form as strong and bushy 
plants as possible. The smaller ones may be put three 
or even five in a pot to form a mass. As the small 
pots become filled with roots, give a shift into a size 
larger, so as to encourage growth as much as possible 
during the remaining part of summer and autumn. 
Tomatos. 
Everywhere the complaint this season is that Tomatos 
out of doors are doing badly. Growth is abundant—in 
fact, profuse—but the flowers drop off, and do not set 
at all well. Those who have been fortunate in securing 
a good or even a fair crop should devote attention to 
that, in order to assist the plants in maturing it. 
What is wanted is, of course, as everyone knows, 
sunshine to bring the fruits up to their standard of 
perfection. All fruits suffer more or less on account of 
the sunless weather and drenching wet we have 
experienced for some time past ; but Tomatos are very 
much injured and their fruiting retarded by it. The 
assistance that can be given them is to attend strictly 
to pruning or pinching, and the tying up of the leading 
shoot or shoots as the case may be. The best results 
generally are obtained by restricting the plants to a 
single stem, whether planted in the open and tied to 
stakes, or against a wall. As soon as a fair set of fruit 
has been obtained, pinch the top of the leader so as to 
direct the energies of the plant into the fruit. If 
planted out under glass, or grcwn in pots, the stems 
may be allowed to run up to a considerable height 
without being stopped, as growth in that direction 
terminates when the plant has'exhausted itself. 
Cucumbers. 
The long-continued cloudy weather is also telling 
badly on Cucumbers in unheated frames. The bed of 
dung made up in spring has lost its heating power, 
and to this may be added an equally important factor, 
the want of sunlight. To relieve the strain upon the 
plants as much as possible under the circumstances, 
all the fruit should be at once removed when fit for 
use. Fruits that have got too old to be of service for 
the table should be cut without ceremony, unless they 
have been specially prepared and reserved for the 
production of seed. Ridge or other Cucumbers in¬ 
tended for pickling should have all the fruits collected 
at once and preserved. Choose a dry time for gathering 
them, as wet is deteriorating and prejudicial to them. 
All the vegetables intended for pickling should also be 
gathered when perfectly dry. 
-- 
YEARLY HISTORY OF AN 
ORCHIS. 
If a plant of Orchis maculata is lifted in spring or 
early summer, when it has developed a few leaves and 
is pushing up its flower-stem, it will be found to con¬ 
sist of two three-lobed tubers and one crown of leaves, 
from the centre of which the flower-stem is pushing. 
The basal or radical leaves are arranged in a two-ranked 
manner, whereas the cauline ones, when the stem 
becomes elongated, are scattered—that is, they point 
in various directions. The tubers are of two ages, and 
the older alone bears fully-developed leaves. It is also 
more darkly coloured than the younger and leafless 
one. The latter is already full grown or nearly so, 
and terminates in a bud. 
A considerable change has taken place if a specimen 
is dug up and again examined towards the end of July. 
The flower-stem has completed its growth, and is either 
in flower or maturing seeds. Its tuber has completely 
died away, and nematoid worms or other low organisms 
are devouring the rotting remains of the skeleton. 
The flower stem is still fresh and vigorous, and must 
be drawing support from the young tuber, to which it is 
firmly attached by means of a short isthmus or neck, 
which connected the two tubers when quite fresh. 
Their upper and contiguous portions at this time, 
together with the connecting isthmus, contain vibro- 
vascular tissue, and constitute the most persistent 
part of the plant, corresponding in fact to an ex¬ 
cessively shortened stem. About half a dozen of the 
basal or radical leaves are connate at the base, forming 
a sheath surrounding the flower stem. Two or more of 
the lowermost are without a blade, consisting of a 
sheath only. Eight or thereabouts clasp the stem with 
their base, but do not sheath it; the rest are bracts 
bearing flowers in their axils. 
Considerable interest centres in the young tuber and 
its bud, which latter has greatly increased in size since 
spring. The outermost sheaths are colourless, open 
only at the top, and consist mostly of those which 
never develop a blade. Three or four inside this series 
sheath at the base only, and even at this early stage are 
yellow, showing that they contain etiolin, which is 
considered as closely allied to chlorophyll, and 
becomes converted into that substance when exposed to 
light. The axis of the bud consists of the incipient 
flower stems of next year, and bears bracts with nodular 
processes in their axils corresponding to the rudiments 
of flowers, so that the whole plan of next year’s work is 
already sketched out. In the axils of the outer sheaths 
one or two buds are quite visible to the naked eye. 
From these the young tuber is developed the following 
spring, and the buds are destined to produce a flower 
stem the second summer from hence. The resting 
period, if there is really a period of actual dormancy 
(which is doubtful), can only be a short one, as a 
considerable amount of growth must take place in 
these buds to produce full-sized tubers by the time the 
main axis pushes itself above ground in the following 
May or June. In July or August then, we have at 
one time, evidence of three distinct campaigns, namely, 
the flower stem with its defunct tuber, and the former 
attached to a young tuber, thus connecting the two, 
and one or two buds already described. 
The young tuber testifies to the activity of the 
leaves during the present season, as all the cells of the 
outer portion is densely filled with starch grains, the 
smaller ones being roundish, and the larger ones oval 
in outline. So numerous are the starch granules that 
the portion containing them is whitish, while the 
vascular tissue is paler or colourless, and contains 
hardly any starch. A slice laid on a piece of glass in 
water, colours the latter, making it viscid and pasty. 
AMERICAN NOTES. 
Mr. De Witt Smith’s Orchids, Lee, Mass.— Another 
great enthusiast in Orchids is Mr. De Witt Smith, of 
Lee. Ten years ago this gentleman hardly knew what an 
Orchid was ; to-day, March 28th, I find him well up 
in the merits and demerits of Orchid culture. Situated 
in the heart of the picturesque town of Lee stands Mr. 
Smith’s pretty little mansion and plant houses. 
I will start with his large circular-roofed house. In 
the first division he grows his Cypripediums. Like a 
great many more, he has got the fever, and a fine lot 
of grand healthy plants his collection contains. Those 
in flower were C. Roezlii, C. argus, C. concolor, C. 
Godefroyie, C. niveum, C. Haynaldianum, C. grande 
(fine), C. Lowii, C. Lawrenceanum, C. barbatum, C. 
O’Brienii, C. Dayii, C. euryandrum, C. calophyllum 
(Harrison’s, a superb dark variety), C. callosum, C. 
conchiferum, C. Haynaldianum snperbum, C. Schlimii, 
C. villosum, C. Sedeni, C. Boxallii, C. insignis, C. 
Dauthierii, C. vernixium, C. nitens, C. Crossii, 
C. barbatum grande, C. barbatum magnificum, C. 
Warnerii, C. biflorum, C. Dominii, C. melanopthal- 
mum, C. Bulleni, C. hirsutissimum, C. supeiciliare, 
and C. ornatum. He has many others just coming 
on, and his collection will shortly be complete. In 
this house I noticed a fine batch of Oneidium Krameri, 
all fine plants and good varieties. The next division 
contained the finest lot of Cattleya Triame in flower I 
have ever seen in America. There were hundreds of 
flowers of all the varieties peculiar to the Trianre 
section, from the delicate almost white to the deep- 
coloured forms, and I have no hesitation in saying 
that one in flower at the time of my visit was, indeed, 
one of the best, Mr. Low and Mr. Court, as well as 
myself, having spoken of it in like terms. The flower 
is just upon 8 ins. in diameter, sepals and petals being 
of a clear deep rose ; the lip is over 2 ins. in diameter, 
and of an intense but bright deep purple ; throat 
nankeen-yellow, beautifully and clearly marked. It is 
a flower of fine form and great substance—indeed, a 
perfect gem. 
Other Orchids that swell this beautiful display were 
suspended from the roofs, many being well-flowered 
plants of Dendrobiums, growu in baskets, such as D. 
Wardianum in many fine forms, also D. Devonianum, 
D. lituitiorum, D. thyrsiflorum, D. densiflorum, D. 
macrophyllum, D. fimbriatum oculatum, D. Farmeri 
aureum, D. crassinode, D. chrysotoxum, and D. nobile, 
all in grand condition. Conspicuous stood Cattleya 
Lawrenceana, its deep-coloured flowers contrasting with 
the many Sehomburgkia crispa with its quaint long 
spikes, which helped to charm the display. Several 
specimens of Oneidium obrizatum were nice; Odonto- 
