780 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
August 4, 1888. 
haying compact heads or “ curds ” of snowy whiteness. 
It is undoubtedly early, and a very fine type. I notice 
in your last issue, at p. 763, that you speak well of the 
Early Erfurt, and undoubtedly this and Snowball are 
two of the very best sorts ; but in justice to the latter, 
I must say that here it was fully eight days earlier than 
the former.— B. Lockwood, July 2%W. 
Seeing the note in your last issue upon the Early 
Erfurt Cauliflower at Chiswick, I am tempted to say 
that I can testify to the excellency of another 
Cauliflower which far surpasses the Early Erfurt, viz., 
Yeitch’s Early Forcing. The seed of this Cauliflower 
was sown by me upon March 23rd, exactly as stated 
was the case at the Royal Horticultural Society’s 
Gardens, and I cut excellent Cauliflowers on June 20th. 
They were everything that could be desired, and still 
continue splendid. It is a grand Cauliflower, as it can 
be planted very close together, and is pure white, firm, 
and good.— Alpha. 
The Hay-scented Fern. 
One of the prettiest of the British Xephrodiums, 
namely, X. aemulum, does not receive half the at¬ 
tention it deserves for decorative purposes, while less 
ornamental exotic species are grown by hundreds and 
thousands by the aid of fire-heat and a great amount 
of attention. The popular name has been given from 
the fact that the fronds smell like hay when dried. 
Apart from this it merits a wide cultivation from the 
beauty of its much divided fronds, the ultimate segments 
of which are curved upwards, giving it a crisped ap¬ 
pearance. Compared with X. spinulosum and X. s. 
dilatatum, its nearest allies amongst British plants, 
the fronds vary from 10 ins. to 18 ins. long, according 
to the age of the plant, or if under cultivation to the 
treatment it receives. They are densely tufted and 
arching, so that a good-sized plant is a handsome 
object; and from its naturally dwarf and compact 
habit, as well as refinement of appearance, it ought to 
be more frequent in collections. X. fcenisecii is a name 
more often applied by some authors to this species, but 
that above given was supported by the late Mr. T. 
Moore. It may be grown in pots, or on the rockery as 
at Merton Lodge, Chiswick. 
White Passion Flower, Constance Elliott. 
Of the several hybrid forms and selected seedlings of 
Passiflora coerulea, there can be no question that 
Constance Elliott is at once one of the prettiest, and 
gives evidence of its growing popularity from the 
frequency with which we meet with it in collections. It 
would be interesting to know whether it would succeed 
with the same freedom as P. ccerulea on an open wall 
in the southern and more favoured parts of this 
country. As the plant grows rapidly and is readily 
propagated, some enthusiastic cultivator might test the 
capability of this variety to withstand the severity of 
our climate on an open wall. Such a summer as the 
present has been would, of course, be an unsuitable 
test to try its flowering capacity, owing to the want of 
sunshine and the superabundance of rain. But the 
question mainly calling for solution is whether it is 
hardy enough to outlive our winters generally without 
any other protection than that afforded by a stone or 
brick wall. These notes suggested themselves on seeing 
some specimens planted, growing and flowering freely 
in the conservatory at Devonhurst, Chiswick. 
The Mountain Parsley Fern. 
How seldom do we see good pieces of this under culti- 
\ ation, yet it is difficult to see why, as the culture is 
easy. On the mountain sides, in its native habitats, 
it forms great masses, growing amongst the debris that 
is continually falling down from above, or encircling 
the base of huge boulders of stone, originally from the 
same source. It would seem that the tiny seedling 
first obtains a foothold immediately under the edge of 
these stones, where moisture is more continuous than 
in fully exposed positions. It is the Cryptogramma 
crispa of botanists, and naturally loves good drainage, 
a fact which must not be overlooked by cultivators. 
The fertile and barren fronds are perfectly distinct, the 
latter apparently having broader pinnae, simply because 
their margins are not inrolled, as the fertile pinna; are 
to cover the spore cases. The atmosphere of London, 
on an average of summers, is too dry for the Parsley 
Fern, compared with that which it enjoys in its native 
habitat, yet we noticed a healthy piece on a Fern- 
rockery at Merton Lodge, Chiswick, where it is fully 
shaded by frees and the house itself from sun, but other¬ 
wise gets an abundance of light. 
Nepenthes Rajah. 
There can be little question that this is one of the 
grandest of all the Pitcher Plants; but although 
numerous seedlings have been raised in this country, 
their growth has hitherto been far from satisfactory. 
Even under the influence of a hot steamy atmosphere, 
which we should expect to be natural to it in its native 
habitat (Borneo), growth has been slow and the pitchers 
small. There is a specimen, however, in the nursery 
of Mr. B. S. 'Williams, Upper Holloway, which has a 
stem from 12 ins. to 15 ins. in height, and foliage also 
well developed. The pitchers measure 6 ins. from the 
base to the top of the lid, and are just commencing to 
show some of the peculiarities of the enormous pitchers 
for which this species is noted. The pitcher is mostly 
of a deep brown, or ultimately purplish brown, the 
broad border round the mouth being of a deep shining 
purplish brown, and strongly corrugated or ribbed, 
with the ribs ending in teeth on the inner margin. 
When full sized, the pitchers measure more than 1 ft. 
in length. 
Unseasonable Flowers of a Pyre thrum. 
In the nurseries of Messrs. Wm. Cutbush & Son, 
Highgate, London, we noticed last week a curious 
instance of abnormal and unseasonable flowers being 
produced by a white-flowered variety of Pyrethrum 
roseum. A considerable quantity in a border having 
flowered in the usual way early in summer, the heads 
were cut off, leaving the annual flower-stems on the 
plants. Cultivators are aware that only one head is 
produced on a stem. At present there are numerous 
small heads in the axils of the cauline leaves. They 
are sessile—that is, stalkless—and somewhat com¬ 
pressed by being squeezed between the leaf and the 
stem, and what is more notable, the florets of the head 
are all tubular and regular—quilled as the florist would 
say—the ray being absent. The early removal of the 
heads for cut-flower purposes, and the abundant rain 
that has prevailed since then, would seem to account 
for the present fresh condition of the stems and the 
production of flower-heads in the axils of the latter 
from the top for some considerable distance downwards. 
-- 
The Gardeners’ Calendar. 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
Pelargoniums. —After the plants have stood in the 
open for a fortnight or so to thoroughly ripen off their 
growths, prune them hard back to a bud or so above 
last year’s wood. Of course there are cases where this 
could not be done and retain the symmetry of the 
plants, so it must rest with the operator as to the exact 
amount of pruning which any individual plant may 
require. After the pruning has been completed, lay 
the plants on their sides till the cuts have been 
thoroughly dried, or healed over as it is popularly 
termed. After that they may be encouraged to break 
in a close frame, where they can be shut up close early 
in the afternoon and syringed. Those required to 
flower very early in spring should be allowed to grow 
on freely without stopping. Pot off cuttings of the 
show and fancy types as soon as rooted, using 60-sized 
pots. Encourage growth, and pinch to make them 
bushy. 
Lachenalias. —It is now time to overhaul the bulbs 
and re-pot them for next year’s work. In turning out 
the soil, sort the bulbs into sizes, keeping the large 
flowering bulbs by themselves, and the small ones to 
be grown on to a useful size. A light rich soil suits 
them best, consisting of nice mellow loam two parts, 
one of leaf-soil and well-decayed cow manure, with 
plenty of sharp river sand to render the whole porous 
and open. Pots, pans, or baskets may be used in 
either case, having plenty of drainage to allow of the 
free passage of water. Pans about 1 ft. in diameter are 
very suitable for this class of bulbs, when there is 
plenty of stock for filling them, otherwise use 5-in. 
pots. In either case cover the bulbs to the depth of 
2 in- with soil, and after the potting is finished place 
the pots or pans on a cool bed of ashes in a frame from 
which frost is just excluded in winter. Give a watering 
at potting time to settle the soil, especially if at all 
dry, when no more will be required till the bulbs make 
their appearance, and then not till they get thoroughly 
dry. Give plenty of air on all favourable occasions 
after the plants push above the soil, so as to keep them 
dwarf and sturdy. Lachenalias are extremely suitable 
subjects for baskets made of wire, but having loose or 
open meshes, so that the bulbs may push through the 
sides. Cover the interior with moss to retain the soil, 
amongst which the bulbs should be regularly arranged 
as the work proceeds, so that the sides as well as the 
top of the basket may be completely covered with 
plants. 
Roman Hyacinths, Xarcissus, &c. —As soon as 
the consignments being sent over are to hand secure 
the necessary quantity, and have the first batch potted 
up at once. Cover them over slightly with coco-nut 
fibre, and stand them in an open or even sunny locality, 
where the sun may influence them beneath the shallow 
covering of the fibre. Ashes are not so suitable for the 
early batch, as they lie close, and prevent the pene¬ 
tration of sun-heat. As soon as the bulbs commence to 
push through the fibre have them removed to a green¬ 
house or other place, where a little encouragement will 
be given by fire-heat. 
Carnations. —The sooner layering is accomplished 
now, the longer will the layers have time to form roots 
before planting out time in autumn. The last week in 
July is time enough to commence in most cases, and 
if the operation is completed by the second week in 
August it may be considered that they have been done 
in the proper season. Around each plant to be layered 
put a quantity of light rich soil, and after removing 
the lower leaves of the shoots and making the necessary 
cut, fasten them down with wooden hooked pegs, or 
the latter may consist of pieces of bracken stem cut so 
that one division of the frond will form a hook. 
THE FRUIT HOUSES. 
Peach Houses. —The weather for some time past has 
been anything but favourable for leaving off the sashes 
of early Peach houses, for the purpose of ripening the 
wood. Under the circumstances it is better to leave 
them on so as to exclude the heavy rain, and ventilate 
both top and bottom, night and day. As succession 
houses get cleared of fruit subject the trees to a 
thorough washing with the syringe or garden engine, 
and thin out all superfluous wood not required for next 
year’s work, so as to thoroughly expose what is left to 
light and air. In late houses which may be rather 
backward owing to the low temperature and wet sun¬ 
less weather, the hot-water pipes may be gently 
warmed so as to hasten the ripening process. 
"Where lifting or re-potting of Peach trees for early 
work is contemplated, a good rich compost should be 
got in readiness, using a liberal quantity of wood ashes 
with it. The latter are always plentiful about an 
establishment where old trees, prunings, and other 
garden rubbish are collected and burnt in a heap from 
time to time. After laying the whole together, turn 
the heap two or three times, so as to thoroughly mix 
the ingredients before use. The trees in the open 
ground intended for forcing may be lifted at once and 
potted firmly, watering down the soil immediately. 
When the operation is completed, place them in a close 
house, where they may be shaded for some days, 
according to the nature of the weather, and the foliage 
kept syringed several times a day till the roots begin 
to take to the new compost. If carefully treated in 
this way, they will be fully established before winter, 
and be in a suitable condition for forcing. Should 
they not receive such kindly usage, they cannot be 
expected to bear the strain of fruiting, especially in 
pots, and also by being forced. 
THE KITCHEN GAJ3DEN. 
Seed Sowing. —It is now time to make preparations 
for the sowing of Cabbages, Brussels Sprouts, Onions, 
and Cauliflower. In late cold districts they may be sown 
at once, but in southern and warmer localities a week 
or ten days later will be in ample time. Make the 
sowing of Onions without delay in an open fully- 
exposed position, where they will have all the ad¬ 
vantages of light and air to make them robust and able 
to withstand the frost in winter, which is liable to 
throw them ouc if at all weakly. Cabbages may be 
planted in t.ieir permanent quarters as soon as ready, 
and if well established will be able to pull through the 
winter better. Cauliflower requires the protection of 
a frame, to which they may be transferred when fit. 
Early Erfurt, Early London, AValcheren, and Yeitch’s 
Autumn Giant are all good kinds. 
Spinach should be sown at once in drills 16 ins. or 
18 ins. apart to stand the winter, while another sowing 
may be made within a fortnight in the same way, 
choosing a suitably dry day for the operation, so as not 
to puddle the ground. Make sowings of Lettuce of the 
more useful and hardy winter sorts during the second 
and third week of the month for a succession. Sow 
thinly to prevent crowding and drawing, as the 
young plants are liable to damp off, especially in wet 
