August 11, 1888. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
795 
the same authority was equal to the occasion ; they 
were not Fuchsias, but “Krollers,” the title being 
doubtless suggested by the namer hearing them called 
Fuchsias with double corollas. However, the market- 
men may be excused—they make it pay. —James 
O'Brien. 
White Passion Flower, Constance Elliott. 
I SAW some notes on this climber in your Miscellany 
column last week, in which the writer asks for some 
testimony as to its hardihood and blooming powers, 
which I am glad to be able to give. "We planted a 
small specimen against a south wall in the spring of 
1887. The following summer being unusually dry, 
and the position a complete sun-trap, we kept the 
plant well watered, and after it commenced growing, 
administered occasional doses of stimulant. There was 
very little bloom last summer, but a quantity of well- 
ripened wood to stand the winter. This, as you know, 
was a hard one, but the plant (covering a space of 
10 ft. by 5 ft.) pulled through, apparently without 
much difficulty, and certainly without any further 
protection than that afforded by the wall, and at the 
time of writing, in spite of interminable rains and 
a sunless sky, is covered with blooms from top to 
bottom. These, which are pure white and richly 
scented, seem to open about fifteen or twenty at a time, 
though doubtless a few days’ sunshine would bring 
them out in greater abundance. The main stem, which 
is nearly as thick as a walking stick, runs up the wall 
perpendicularly, throwing out laterals every 6 ins. or 
7 ins. On examining the plant the other day, I found 
one of Mr. "Ware’s labels still tied to the stem, the 
ligature almost cutting the bark, and it occurred to me 
that this check to the sap may account for the mar¬ 
vellous display of bloom over the whole plant. But in 
any case Constance Elliott is an invaluable acquisition, 
and no one need be afraid of planting it against a 
south wall .—Somersetshire Rector. 
Aristoloehia elegans. 
Of all the hothouse species, few or none of the climbing 
ones can be grown in so small a compass, or is so 
serviceable for culture in pots. Of course, some erect- 
growing ones, such as A. tricaudata, are accommodating 
enough as far as space is concerned ; but the liowers of 
that species can only be described as singular or striking, 
while those of A. elegans are decidedly ornamental. 
They have the usual curved, bent, or broken-looking 
tube, which has been compared to a Dutchman’s pipe, 
the limb itself corresponding to the bowl. In outline 
the latter is oval, or almost orbicular and concave, 
closely marbled all over with rich purple and white, 
being almost black round the orifice of the tube, while 
the throat is yellow. The slender climbing stems may 
be twisted round stakes in a pot, tied to a framework 
made for the purpose, or fastened to wires running 
underneath the rafters of a house. It has found its 
way to Pendell Court, Bletchingley, where Mr. F. Boss, 
gardener to Sir George Macleay, grows a rich collection 
of rare, curious, or beautiful things from all parts of the 
world. The subject of this note is a native of Brazil. 
The President Strawberry. 
This variety has well maintained its claim to premier¬ 
ship honours above all others. It has fruited well 
through this inclement season—indeed, no sort that I 
have noticed has done so well.— B. A., August 6th. 
Lilium candidum. 
Amongst the many useful Lilies this must be con¬ 
sidered as one of the best. It is very accommodating, 
and in no way appears to be fastidious as to soil or 
situation.' It grows grandly in the cottage gardens in 
this neighbourhood, although the soil is very light, 
poor and dry, and gets very hot in dry summers. I 
observe that it does well and is cultivated largely in 
the gardens of the officers at Aldershot. Many of these 
gardens are kept very gay, and well cared for ; and 
just now this grand old Lily is one of the chief features. 
In one garden I noticed it associated with Blue Del¬ 
phiniums, Galega officinalis and tall-growing (Enotheras, 
and the effect was good, these and other hardy plants 
making a good show. I do not remember ever seeing 
this Lily bloom so well as it is doing this season ; can 
it be due to the extra heat of last summer, when most 
things got a good ripening ? I have noticed that in 
some gardens this Lily loses its leaves long before it 
comes into bloom. Can any reader give a reason for 
this ? It does not seem to have any bad effect on the 
blooming the next season.— Con. 
Jambosa acida. 
The dimensions attained by some of the members of 
the Myrtle family, of which this is one, is often 
remarkable. We have evidence of this in the noble 
proportions of the leaves of Grias cauliflora, than which 
the leaves of the plant under notice are not much 
smaller. We noticed a fine specimen the other day in 
the nursery of Mr. B. S. Williams, Upper Holloway. 
It is grown in comparatively a small pot, hung up 
near the light, the huge leaves measuring some 
3 ft. or 4 ft. in length, and 15 ins. to 18 ins. in width. 
They have a bold and leathery-looking appearance, and 
are tliree-nerved longitudinally, with the lateral nerves 
connected with the midrib by means of numerous 
transverse and parallel strong ones developed at right 
angles to the primary ones. 
-- 
The Gardeners’ Calendar. 
THE STOVE. 
Crotons. —Should some of the plants have overgrown 
their root-room, that is, become pot-bound, now is a 
good time to shift into larger-sized pots. There will 
be sufficient time before winter for the plants to become 
re-established. Plants that are pot-bound now can 
hardly be expected to keep their foliage in good 
condition without re-potting till spring. Propagate 
good tops of the finer and more serviceable kinds ; they 
are always in demand for table decoration and other 
purposes. Space, however, need not be encumbered 
with a great number of kinds, unless they have good 
foliage or a graceful habit to recommend them. No 
advantage is gained by growing more than cau be 
properly accommodated or thoroughly exposed to light, 
as they only become drawn and leggy by the loss of 
their bottom foliage. Good kinds are Weismanni, 
Veitchii, Warreni, Queen Victoria, Undulatum, In- 
terruptum, Picturatum, Aneitense, Angustissimum, 
Triumphans Hardwoodianum, and Becurvifolium. 
Dkaoenas, Pandanus. —Plants of Draciena gracilis, 
D. rubra, D. terminalis, and D. Cooperi that are be¬ 
coming too tall and leggy, should have their tops cut 
off' and rooted. Those with hard stems, such as D. 
Goldieana, should be ringed immediately beneath the 
leaves, and have a small pot broken in half placed 
round them, filling the pot with sandy soil and 
sphagnum. When fairly well rooted into this, the top 
may be completely severed from the parent plant and 
potted up in the ordinary way. Place the specimens 
so operated upon in a close frame or pit with a moist 
atmosphere till re-established and drawing their 
supplies through the new roots. The old stems may 
be buried in coco-nut fibre in a frame or propagating 
pit till they develop buds, which may be taken off after 
they have attained a suitable size and rooted as young 
stuff. In propagating Pandanus Veitchii be careful to 
select the best variegated specimens. The shoots 
should also be of moderate dimensions, or even 
small, as they grow more slowly and do not so soon get 
to an unmanageable size ; besides which, these less 
vigorous pieces keep their variegation better. 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
Eupatoriums. —The earliest batch of E. odoratum 
will soon be ready for removal to the stages of the 
greenhouse or conservatory, where they will serve to 
fill a gap, and be useful till the later flowering but 
equally ornamental and pretty E. riparium is ready to 
take its place. Cuttings of E. odoratum, if put in 
now several in a pot, will form useful pieces for the 
conservatory in spring. 
Ferns.— Some of the commoner kinds used for 
cutting from should be placed in a cool house with a 
drier atmosphere and more ventilation in order to 
harden their fronds, and make them more durable in a 
cut state. All decayed and useless fronds should, of 
course, be vigorously removed, in order to admit light 
and air to those remaining. Adiantum cuneatum, 
A. c. Pacottei, and other of its forms are amongst the 
most popular and serviceable for winter work. 
Calceolarias.— The earliest batch should be kept 
moist and in a cool position, taking care, however, not 
to oyer water them during wet weather like that which 
has been so prevalent lately. Slugs are very fond oi 
them, and must be kept in check by frequent visits 
with a lantern at night, should they not be detected 
during the day. Make a good sowing within the next 
few days or a week. The seedlings will succeed the 
small but early batch sown some time ago, and con¬ 
stitute the main batch for spring flowering. 
THE FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vine Borders. —If old Vines are showing a tendency 
to become exhausted, the borders should be renewed 
after the crops have been gathered. Commence by 
preparing the compost, which should be made up in 
some large open shed if at command. This is necessary 
if the present wet and unsettled nature of the weather 
continues, otherwise the soil will get materially injured, 
becoming muddy and puddled during the operation of 
chopping, mixing and turning, an occurrence which 
should be prevented by all possible means, as it is then 
unfit for the newly lifted and injured roots to push 
fresh rootlets into. The fresh material should consist 
of turfy and fibrous loam that has been taken from an 
old pasture, and, if possible, has lain in a heap for 
some months to become more mellow and workable by 
the partial decay of the fibre. Chop it up roughly 
with the spade, and add a liberal quantity of bones, 
both coarsely and finely crushed. The latter will 
sooner be of service to the roots, while the former will 
constitute a reserve for years to come. Charcoal from 
the heap of garden refuse and primings of trees that 
have been burned for the purpose, as well as a quantity 
of old mortar, may be added to the heap. It will 
greatly depend on the quantity already in the soil 
whether more calcareous matter is needed, so that the 
intelligent cultivator will have to be guided to some 
extent by the nature of the s.oil in his neighbourhood. 
Spread all these materials equally over the heap, and 
have it carefully turned several times, so as to 
thoroughly incorporate the ingredients before being 
used. 
If the old soil of the borders is bad or thoroughly 
exhausted for the time being, it should be completely 
removed. If there are outside and inside borders, do 
only one of them this season, and the other next year. 
Use a fork for the removal of the soil, so as not to cut 
the Vine roots in the operation. "When the latter have 
been carefully unearthed, tie them loosely together and 
cover with mats, so as to prevent either sun or wind 
from injuring the more slender fibres by drying them 
up. When the whole of the soil has been removed, see 
that provisions are made for draining off the superfluous 
water that must accumulate during heavy rains, or 
even when heavy waterings are rendered necessary 
during the growing period in warm summer weather. 
For drainage of the border itself use clean brickbats or 
other rubble which may be at command in the neigh¬ 
bourhood. Place the clean bricks in the bottom, and 
cover them over with fresh turves, with the grassy side 
downwards. Put in fresh soil, treading moderately 
firm till within a short distance of the surface, where 
the roots should be spread out evenly and regularly, 
and afterwards covered up. When within easy distance 
of the surface,- the roots can readily be fed with top 
dressings and mulchings of farmyard manure. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Lettuce and Endive. —As seedlings of these become 
fit, have a good breadth planted out for autumn and 
winter use. There is not the same difficulty attached 
to this work as there was at the same period last year, 
when drought of unusual severity prevailed. The 
ground is in excellent condition for planting, provided 
a dry day or two can be secured to allow the superfluous 
moisture to drain away before doing what digging may 
be necessary, and afterwards planting the ground. 
During dry weather tie up for blanching such sowings 
as may be ready for that operation. Towards the end 
of the week or the beginning of the next, make sowings 
of Lettuce to be planted out for early spring use. For 
this period of the year dependence should be placed on 
old and tried kinds only—namely, those which are 
known to be hardiest, anil which give the best results 
in spring after having stood the winter. 
-- 
ORCHID NOT ES AND GLEANINGS. 
The Orchid Growers’ Calendar. 
The long spell of dull weather -seems to have been 
favourable to the production of a goodly crop of slugs 
and small snails, and, indeed, every other living thing 
which gives the Orchid grower trouble. A spare hour 
is always well bestowed in hunting after these things, 
especially where traces of them are found. Early 
morning or late at night are the best times, and the 
old accessories of hollowed Potatos, Lettuce leaves, or 
small pans of bran, although old-fashioned practices, 
are not to be despised, for the succulent Lettuce or 
young Cabbage leaf have saved many a young growth, 
and at the same time made a trap for the marauder. 
Cleansing plants by sponging, either with clear water, 
or if thrips be suspected, with weak tobacco-water, is 
always a stock subject to fall back upon when no other 
urgent work presents itself. It always does good, and 
while the plants are being handled their pots and the 
staging they rest upon should also be cleansed. A 
sight of the first cockroach or cricket should be the 
