August 25, 1888. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
827 
leaves and flower-stems then attain handsome pro¬ 
portions. The flowers are pink and white, with a large 
bronzy calyx, and closely arranged along tall stately 
stems, which spring from the centre of the large 
slightly spiny leaves that arch gracefully on all sides. 
The plant is now in fine condition in the gardens of 
the Royal Horticultural Society, Chiswick. 
Ligularia macrophylla. 
There are a great many plants that are perfectly 
hardy, and might be used with excellent effect in the 
sub-tropical garden, provided the method of cultivation 
is such as to induce a robust and vigorous growth of 
the leaves, for upon such depends their beauty and the 
tropical appearance it is desirable to produce. L. 
macrophylla is certainly the most distinct of the species 
in cultivation, a fact which is due largely to the dis¬ 
tinctly glaucous colour of the leaves. The generic 
name, which means a strap, refers to the form of the 
ray florets, and as far as the leaves are concerned, the 
name would apply more appropriately to the present 
species than to any other in cultivation, as they are 
oblong though not particularly strap-shaped, while 
those of other species are more or less triangular or 
heart-shaped. The plant develops very slowly in a 
lateral direction, and consequently never becomes 
weedy. The flower stems rise to the height of 2J ft. 
to 3J ft., terminating in a compact panicle of yellow 
flower heads. It is a plant that would repay liberal 
treatment in a deep rich soil. 
Potentilla nepalensis. 
Among the stronger growing Potentillas this Himalayan 
species takes rank with P. argyrophylla, which has 
been improved in gardens to a greater extent than 
any other. It is sometimes grown under the name of 
P. formosa, a name to which it is well entitled. The 
flowers are similar in size to those of P. argyrophylla, 
are of a beautiful deep rose colour, and produced in 
succession for many weeks together, owing to the 
freely branching habit of the plant. There is a copious 
development of radical leaves, which are divided into 
five leaflets that are green, not silvery as in the other 
species, and the plant being perfectly hardy in almost 
any part of Britain, it is a suitable subject either for 
the rockery or flower border. It flowers best in a 
sunny position where the soil is moderately moist.— 
B. B. 
Chrysanthemum lacustre. 
There are several forms of Chrysanthemum of the 
Ox-eye Daisy type, that are frequently confounded in 
gardens, and the present is one of them. It is readily 
distinguished from C. maximum, however, with which 
it is most liable to be confounded, by the much greater 
breadth of its leaves, which are somewhat ovate lance¬ 
shaped, and more or less narrowed towards the base. 
The flower-heads are about 2 ins. in diameter, white, 
with a yellow disk, and produced singly from the apex 
of stems that develop short lateral branches with 
smaller heads. The plant itself grows from 2 ft. to 3 ft. 
in height, according to the season, and forms a suitable 
subject for moist borders. It is a native of Portugal, 
and perfectly hardy in this country. Some authorities 
class it amongst the Pyrethrums, but the latter genus 
is now sunk in Chrysanthemum, as the distinctions 
that separate them are too trivial. — B. B. 
Silene Armeria. 
In vernacular language this beautiful annual is known 
as the Sweet-William Catchfly, but whatever name is 
employed, there can be no doubt that it is capable of 
creating a fine effect when grown by itself under 
favourable conditions. The worst possible method of 
dealing with it is to mix it with other subjects, such as 
Clarkias, Lupins, Bartonias, and similar strong-growing 
subjects, which quite overpower it and completely hide 
its beauty. The reason is not far to seek, as, whatever 
the nature of the season, it never grows coarse, nor 
much exceeds its usual height of 1 ft. It is naturalised 
in some parts of Britain, and sows itself freely from 
seeds.— B. B. 
- »I< -- 
The Gardeners’ Calendar. 
THE STOVE. 
Hedychiums and Cannas. —Both these are members 
of the same family, and usually considered as stove 
subjects, although some of the former may be grown in 
a greenhouse, and the latter in the open air during 
summer. Many of them are now in season, and from 
their showy character and delicious fragrance the 
Hedychiums, such as H. coronarium, H. Gardnerianum, 
and H. flavosum, are very much appreciated. The pots 
containing them should stand on inverted ones sub¬ 
merged round the edge of the tank in the aquatic 
house, so that the roots may just dip into the water. 
Failing this they might be stood in pans of water. In 
all cases treat them liberally with water and liquid 
manure, so that every flower-bearing stem may bring 
its spike of bloom to perfection. Cannas furnish a 
supply of bloom very late in the year if grown in pots, 
and well treated. This applies not merely to C. 
iridiflorum hybrida, better known amongst gardeners 
as C. Ehemanni, but also to the numerous varieties 
grown out of doors in the sub-tropical garden, many of 
which furnish showy and brilliantly coloured flowers. 
Caladiums.- —As the large-leaved varieties lose 
colour and begin to fade, have them removed from the 
stove, and placed in frames or some convenient house 
which can be thoroughly ventilated. Gradually 
reduce the supply of water in order to induce a 
thorough ripening of the conns or tubers, otherwise 
they cannot be expected to winter well. Some of the 
small-leaved varieties can be kept in a healthy and 
fresh condition up till a later period ; but they also 
require a period of rest, and when they are to be 
started early they should be ripened off early, and by 
so treating them, growth is both stronger and comes 
away more readily when heat is applied. 
Gloxinias. —Have the latest-flowering patch potted 
up as soon as possible, so that they may be urged 
forward. Smaller pots than was used for those flowered 
earlier in the season will be sufficient. 
Alternantheras. —Many reserve a stock of these 
in pots at bedding-out time for the purpose of wintering, 
in order to supply cuttings in spring. Autumn-struck 
cuttings, if put in now, furnish a stock of plants that not 
only stand the winter better, but grow more freely, 
and supply an abundance of good cuttings when put in 
a propagating pit in spring. Unlike bedding plants 
generally, Alternantheras, being in reality stove plants, 
should be treated accordingly. It is not safe to delay 
propagation in the case of these tender plants much 
longer, especially if there is not a sufficient stock of 
old plants in pots upon which some reliance Can be 
placed. __ 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
Cinerarias. —The earliest batch of these intended for 
winter flowering should receive their final shift as soon 
as they have formed a strong crown of leaves. See 
that the ball is sufficiently moist before putting them 
into fresh soil, and be careful not to damage the leaves, 
which are brittle, but of great importance to the well¬ 
being of the plant. Keep the pit or house in which 
they are being grown well ventilated, to prevent 
drawing and the consequent weakening of the plants. 
Fumigate lightly if there is the least danger of green-fly 
getting a footing, as they do incalculable damage, 
especially should they get on the young and developing 
crowns. 
Propagation of Bedding Plants. —Pelargoniums 
propagated after this date should not be placed in the 
open ground as in the case of cuttings removed in July 
or the beginning of this month. Pots or boxes should 
be enqfloyed, the latter accommodating the greatest 
number of plants in the smallest space. Place a few 
crocks over the holes in the boxes, cover with rough 
leaves or siftings by way of drainage, and after filling 
them up firmly with light sandy soil, cover with a layer 
of sharp river-sand as a safeguard against damp at the 
collar of the cutting. Salvias, Verbenas, Lobelias, 
Heliotropes, Iresines, Ageratums, Coleus, Gazanias, 
choice Tropieolums, Mesembryanthemum cordifolium 
variegatum, Abutilon Thompsoni, Veronica Andersoni 
variegata, and all plants of that class, should be put in 
without delay, so that they may be well rooted before 
winter. They keep better when so treated than if left 
till later on, when it becomes necessary to apply arti¬ 
ficial heat to root them. Under such conditions they 
are excited to make a weak spindly growth compared 
with what they would have done provided they were 
placed in cold frames, or even better, on the surface of 
spent Cucumber, Melon, and other beds covered by 
moveable or other frames. Pelargoniums should be 
placed together, so that they may receive more venti¬ 
lation than such things as Salvias, Verbenas, and 
Heliotropes. They (the Pelargoniums) require to be 
kept in a drier condition, especially with regard to the 
foliage, and in all but the driest of weather they should 
receive what watering is necessary in the early part of 
the day, so that the foliage may become dry before 
night—that is, if they are kept in closed frames. Pot 
up those things (chiefly Pelargoniums) which were put 
in the open ground some time previously, provided 
they be fairly well rooted, giving each a 60-sized pot. 
Administer water but sparingly until thoroughly rooted 
in the fresh soil. _ 
THE FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vineries. —Do not attempt to hasten the ripening of 
the foliage of the Vines in early vineries if it is still 
fresh and green. A long season of growth is more 
favourable to the storage of reserve material in the 
stems, by which means they are better able to start 
strongly in spring and support a better crop of fruit. 
"Water must still be used if the borders are at all dry, 
giving ample ventilation, and maintaining a gentle heat 
in the hot-water pipes. Under these conditions they 
will ripen much more satisfactorily than by adopting 
the starvation principle. Give due attention to clean¬ 
liness, washing down the walls and glass occasionally 
on fine days to keep all kinds of vermin in check. 
Grapes that have been ripe for some time, but are still 
left hanging on the Vines, can be kept plump, and the 
foliage healthy, by damping the borders occasionally 
on fine days. Muscats not yet ripe should be kept at 
a temperature of 70° by night, allowing a considerable 
rise during the day. While still colouring give a 
sufficient supply of clear water at the roots. Close 
early in the afternoon with a moist atmosphere, but a 
chink of air must be left on the top ventilators all 
night. Opening of the front ones during the day must 
be done with caution, so as not to admit a sudden rush 
of cold air. The atmosphere out of doors gets per¬ 
ceptibly colder and autumn-like, week by week now. 
Other late varieties should have plenty of ventilation 
while colouring with the application of a little fire- 
heat. • - 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Strawberries. —As soon as the last dish of Straw¬ 
berries has been gathered the nets should be removed, 
all runners and weeds cleared away, and the soil 
between the rows loosened up by mems of the hoe, so 
that the plants may benefit to the full advantage by 
the autumn rains and what fine growing weather 
remains, before the approach of winter. When plan¬ 
tations have become worn out and are not intended for 
fruiting another season, let the ground be trenched, 
and at the same time heavily manured. 
Herbaceous borders. — Late-flowering subjects, 
such as Dahlias, Phloxes, Perennial Asters, and herba¬ 
ceous plants in general, should be seen to in the 
matter of staking or tying, as rough weather may at 
any time break them down, doing irreparable injury 
especially to Dahlias, when they get at all top-heavy. 
Beds of Pentstemons in sheltered places will, as a rule, 
not require staking, if they have filled the beds so as 
to support one another, otherwise the individual plants 
will require to be tied up. Hollyhocks are now tall 
and heavy and require firm support. 
-- 
ORCHID NOT ES AND GLEANINGS. 
STANHOPEA INSIGNIS, Frost. 
1 have in flower this fine species, which, although one 
of the oldest, is still rare, those usually found in 
collections under this name being varieties of S. oculata. 
The flowers of the true species are large, the labellum 
being especially massive and fleshy in appearance. The 
sepals and petals are lemon-yellow, whitish towards 
the tips, blotched with purple. The hypochile is 
globose, dark purple; the horns spreading and incurved; 
the front portion of the lip roundish and entire. 
The column has a curiously broad winged margin, and 
like the horns and epichile is cream coloured dotted with 
purple. It is very handsome, and is most likely the 
plant formerly known as S. Bucephalus, although S. 
tigrina often bears that name now.— J. O'B. 
STANHOPEA TIGRINA SUPERBA. 
What a wonderful thing this is is exemplified by a 
flower sent by the Rev. F. D. Horner, of Low Fields, 
Burton-in-Lonsdale, from a plant that came out of the 
Liverpool Horticultural Company’s collection. The 
flower sent is larger and much more richly coloured 
than the type, and seems identical with that figured as 
superba in the Flore des Serves. The sepals and petals 
are orange coloured, the sepals heavily blotched with 
purplish crimson and the petals evenly barred with the 
same colour. The hypochile or basal portion of the lip 
is rich maroon next the column and yellow in the other 
