106 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
October 18, 1890. 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
SEASONABLE WORK in the GARDEN. 
Chrysanthemums. —Every attention will now 
liave to be given to Chrysanthemums, especially those 
intended for exhibition purposes, for upon the care 
bestowed upon them during the next few weeks will 
depend the results of a whole year’s work. Crowding 
in the houses must be avoided as much as possible, so 
as to give the foliage all the advantage of light and air. 
Assist frequently with liquid manure in a diluted 
condition, always bearing in mind that the roots 
cannot absorb or utilise any kind of food that is too 
concentrated. 
Cinerarias. —The fine weather with which we have 
been favoured for some time past, has enabled the 
cultivator to retain his plants in cold frames, thereby 
avoiding the over-crowding of other houses. Prepar¬ 
ations must, however, be made to remove Cinerarias 
into structures having the command of fire heat, so that 
in the event of frost the hot water may be turned on. 
A bench near the glass will prove the most suitable 
place for them, and if the bench is covered with ashes 
so as to preserve the moisture, the foliage will keep all 
the better for this precaution. 
Violets. —Flowers can now be obtained in quantity 
by the use of a little heat, artificial or otherwise. A 
good plan is to make up a bed of fermenting manure, 
placing on the top about 4 ins. or so of soil. The 
frame should be so filled that the foliage of the Violets, 
when planted, will touch the glass. This will allow 
the plants to be near the glass, even after the fermenting 
materials have partly decayed and settled down. 
Salvia splendens. — The plants, both of this 
Salvia and its variety S. s. Bruanti, should be kept as 
near the glass as possible, and the house ventilated on 
favourable occasions, so as to keep the plants sturdy 
while being urged into bloom, otherwise they frequently 
suffer considerable harm when transferred to the green¬ 
house or conservatory. The sudden change from a 
warm and moist atmosphere to a comparatively cold 
and dry one causes the flowers to drop wholesale. 
Homan Hyacinths. — The earliest batch, if 
potted when first received, should now have m^xle some 
advance, and if roots are well developed and the flower 
scape pushing, they may be considered in good 
condition for forcing. They should be urged on 
gently at first, but after a time the temperature may be 
increased, so as to get the plants into bloom during 
next month. 
Dutch Bulbs. — The main and late batches of 
Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, and other bulbs should 
now be potted, to prevent their deterioration by 
sprouting, which can often with difficulty be prevented 
after this time, especially if kept in a damp place, or if 
the weather be at all moist. They can be retarded in 
a cool house in spring if at all necessary. 
Stove Ferns.— With the lowering of the tem¬ 
perature the atmosphere should also be kept in a drier- 
state, so as to harden the fronds of such things as 
Adiantums and others of that class for the winter. 
This should be done gradually, otherwise the fronds 
will be apt to lose colour or become prematurely 
browned, according to their age. Ventilate freely on 
every favourable occasion so as to assist the hardening 
process. 
Vines. —Some skill or rather careful oversight and 
attention should be given to houses in which ripe 
Grapes are hanging, and are intended to be kept 
through the next month or later. The moisture 
arising from borders can be counteracted by covering 
them with a layer of dry Bracken. The front venti¬ 
lators should not be opened when fogs or wet weather 
prevail. Proper circulation may be obtained by the 
use of gentle fire-heat and opening the top ventilators. 
Go over the bunches frequently to remove bad berries. 
Cucumbers. —The weather for the past six weeks 
has been favourable to the growth of this as well as 
other garden subjects, and advantage may be taken of 
it to develop a good sturdy growth, by which the 
plant will the better be enabled to pass through the 
next month, usually the worst in the whole year for 
growing plants. 
Strawberries in Pots. —Plants in a forward 
state should receive regular supplies of water and 
liquid manure to keep the roots in an active state. It is 
not necessary to resort to thinning the fruits of autumn¬ 
bearing plants, as they continue to throw up fresh 
flowers from time to time, and so produce a succession 
of fruit. Plants in flower should occasionally be gone 
over with a feather or something similar to distribute 
the pollen and ensure a good set of fruit. 
Boot-pruning 1 of Fruit Trees. —The present 
is a .most suitable time for the performance of this 
operation, as the soil is dry, and the trees not yet 
having completed their growth, a quantity of fresh 
roots will be developed before winter thoroughly sets 
in, and the trees will by that time be practically 
re-established. Remove the soil at some distance from 
the bole of the tree, exposing the roots, and when this 
has been completed take away those that strike down 
deeply into the soil and shorten back the others, 
carefully preserving those of a fibrous nature. After 
this has been done level the bottom, and arrange the 
roots so that their tips will point slightly upwards 
rather than otherwise. Cover them and fill in between 
with fine soil, then fill up, make firm, and mulch with 
manure. 
-- 
ORNAMENTAL TREES FOR THE 
EXTREME NORTH. 
Although the Catalpa, Tulip Tree, Kentucky Coffee 
Tree, the Magnolias, the Cypress, Ailanthus, Laburnum, 
Euonymus, Bollonwood, Persimmon, and Sassafras are 
not suitable for our northern climate, there is certainly 
no lack of variety of beautiful trees which can be relied 
on as being hardy enough, and in every way suitable 
for any inhabited part of Ontario. 
Among evergreens we have the Hemlock Spruce, 
which for gracefulness of habit, richness of colour of 
foliage, is not excelled by any foreign variety that I 
know of. I often wonder why it is so seldom grown as 
an ornamental tree. Perhaps by some it is considered 
too common, but this is a mistake, for according to 
present indications it will soon become one of the most 
uncommon trees in this country. 
We also have the Norway Spruee, the Balsam Fir, 
Arbor Vitres in variety, Red Cedar, and the Retinospora. 
the Austrian Pine, Scotch Pine, Weymouth Pine, and 
a lot of other Pines, which, when grown as single 
specimens with plenty of room, make ornamental 
trees. 
Then among deciduous trees, besides all the glorious 
Maples, Elms, Ashes and Mountain Ashes, we have the 
Basswood, European Larch, European White Birch, 
American Canoe Birch, Purple Birch, and the Cut¬ 
leaved Weeping Birch. Trees of all these kinds when 
properly grown as single specimens, are admirable. 
One prevailing error is planting trees too closely 
together. Recently I saw growing on a lawn three 
beautiful trees of considerable size, one each of the 
Purple Beech, Cut-leaved Maple and Weeping Birch. 
They were only 12 ft. apart, and beginning to crowd 
each other then, consequently in about three years more 
the two outer ones will be lop-sided, and the middle one 
a spindling scrub. I have seen thousands of fine trees 
ruined in the same way. Indeed, it is only in rare 
instances they are given sufficient room to display their 
natural beauty. 
Another objectionable practice is that of clipping or 
trimming evergreen trees into various fanciful shapes. 
When trees are grown for ornament, and given plenty 
of room, they usually take a natural and graceful form, 
which is always more pleasing to those who have 
acquired a correct taste than any distortion that may 
be given by pruning. Many otherwise beautiful 
landscapes are sadly marred by the stiff appearance of 
some barbered trees. 
Another common mistake is made in giving preference 
to all foreign species belonging to the same genera as 
some of our native trees. The European Larch is of 
more graceful habit than our native Tamarack, and the 
White Birch, with its weeping varieties, is certainly 
more beautiful than any of our common Birches, but 
the European Linden is not by any means preferable to 
our Basswood as an ornamental tree, neither is the 
English Elm for either beauty or shade to be compared 
with some of the varieties of our White Elm. Par¬ 
ticularly is this noticeable in Toronto, where the 
different species are growing on opposite sides of some 
of the streets. 
The Horse Chestnut is a magnificent tree when grown 
to perfection, but in my district it is too short-lived, 
and even if it lives forty years it loses its beauty, as the 
branches begin to die. 
There is perhaps no tree more unsuitable for 
ornamentation than the Silver Poplar. Yet about 
many farm homes it is the only tree planted. When 
once planted it is there to stay, for it continuously 
sends up suckers enough to destroy every other kind of 
tree near by. The down it throws off after flowering is 
an abomination. 
The Lombardy Poplar is admired by some, but it 
deserves no place in ornamental grounds. The Aspen 
possesses some beauty ; yet it would be folly to plant 
it unless for the sake of variety. 
When asked which of all trees I prefer for the 
ornamentation of a lawn, I invariably recommend the 
cut-leaved W eeping Birch. I have lost many fine 
specimens of it through the depredation of “sap sucker’’ 
(yellow-bellied woodpecker) ; yet if I had but room 
for one ornamental tree I would plant a cut-leaved 
Weeping Birch. Next I would prefer the Purple Birch, 
Weir’s cut-leaved Maple, European Larch, Red Cedar, 
Blue Spruce, and Norway Spruce. After the European 
Mountain Ash, the Imperial cut-leaved Alder, the 
Basswood, and the Dogwood. On extensive grounds I 
would, of course, plant a large variety, and would 
include the \ellow Locust. The only objection to it is 
its tendency to suckering. The sweet perfume from its 
flowers in the month of June entitles it to a place in 
the pleasure grounds. 
The wild Black Cherry is seldom planted as an 
ornamental tree, although remarkably suitable for the 
purpose. It is beautiful in flower as well as in fruit. 
I have seldom seen it affected by the black knot, but 
have found it to be one of the most enduring. 
The Hickories, as a class, are of slow growth while 
young, but their foliage is exceedingly beautiful. In 
exposed positions they endure and thrive well, while 
many other kinds would be injured. 
The Ashleaved Maple is quite as~ hardy, but it 
requires a richer and moister soil. 
For a large growing and wide-spreading tree for shade 
the Common Beech is unsurpassed. 
The White Ash when grown as a single specimen 
with plenty of room is a noble tree, well suited for an 
extensive landscape. 
The number of trees I have mentioned is sufficient to 
make any country home as cheerful and beautiful as 
the most refined taste could desire. 
I believe one of the chief reasons why so many 
farmers’ homes look desolate is because the owners have 
become discouraged through the imposition of unscru¬ 
pulous vendors who have urged the purchase and 
planting of trees utterly unsuited for locality and 
conditions. Nurserymen who allow their agents to sell 
unsuitable trees are also to blame ; and they make a 
mistake, because success with suitable trees would 
certainly lead to increased demand .—From a paper read 
before the Ontario Fruit Growers Association. 
-- 
PROTECTION FOR THE ORIGIN¬ 
ATORS OF NEW PLANTS. 
How the originators or introducers of new varieties of 
plants can be protected in what seems to be clearly 
their right to some special proprietorship of their 
production is a subject that has often been discussed. 
At the late American Convention of nurserymen the 
fact was emphasised that very few persons in this 
country who had originated valuable varieties of fruit 
had received any direct benefit from it. As an 
illustration it was stated that Mr. Worden, who 
brought out the Grape named after him, and which 
many people esteem, all things considered, as the best 
black Grape grown in America, is now a poor man, and 
never made 50.0 dollars from this valuable introduction. 
If inventors are protected by law against the piracy of 
ideas which have cost them labour and study, it would 
seem just that a man should be able to reap some 
reward for having brought out after much thought and 
experiment a new fruit which may add to the wealth 
and comfort of millions. 
Different plans for patenting plants have been often 
advocated, but the essential objection to them all was 
well stated by Professor Bailey more than a year ago 
as follows:—“It is exceedingly doubtful if a patent 
could be secured for varieties which spring up from a 
chance seedling, and most of our varieties come in this 
way ; but if the patents were granted there are in¬ 
numerable cases in which no jury of experts could 
agree concerning the distinctness of varieties.” Few 
cautious persons would be willing to swear to the 
identity of a Strawberry or Rose, and it would be 
difficult to prove in any given instance that the flower - 
or fruit in question was not a new one, closely re¬ 
sembling an older variety. 
Mr. A. L. Bancroft, of California, has also suggested 
a horticultural register, wherein separate plants like 
Roses, Chrysanthemums, Ferns, Apples, and Grapes 
