sSS 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
February 7, 1891; 
Crotons. 
A good collection of these is always admired ; their 
gorgeous colours, spiral shape of the leaves, especially 
the narrow ones, and graceful habit render them in 
the highest degree attractive. This is not their only 
recommendation, for they are useful for table decoration 
as well as for exhibition purposes. Almost every stove 
contains a few ; indeed, these and Dracfenas generally 
constitute the bulk of stove occupants. Soil composed 
of equal parts of loam and peat with the finer particles 
discarded, together with silver-sand and some charcoal, 
will suit them. Pot firmly, the very large specimens 
more so, and in the transfer to larger pots avoid injury 
to the roots as much as possible, otherwise a greater 
loss of leaves will be the consequence. Cuttings should 
now be taken, which will soon root, if placed in bottom 
heat. Presuming all conditions are favourable, these 
will make good plants in a few months’ time. As with 
Dracaenas, plenty of heat and moisture are essential to 
the successful culture of Crotons. Although full ex¬ 
posure to the sun is conductive to high colouring, yet 
where a collection is grown of different subjects, they 
cannot be treated separately. A sharp look-out must be 
kept for thrips, as plants infested with them are so 
affected that no after treatment can remedy it. Syringe 
freely in warm weather, and this will act as a preven¬ 
tive. Brown scale is also troublesome, and should not 
be allowed to make any great headway. For house 
decoration the narrow-leaved vaneties are the best, such 
as C. Aigburthensis, C. Warrenii, C. angustifolia, C. 
Johannis, C. majesticus, and C. Weismannii; while for 
exhibition and other purposes, Queen Victoria, C. 
Mortii, C, Evansianus, C. Andreanus, C. undulatus, C. 
variegatus, and C. pictum are recommended. 
Pandanus, &c. 
Pandanus Veitchii and P. utilis, both useful and 
ornamental, are well-known stove plants. Aralias are 
very pretty, and mix well with other plants. The 
following are also good :—A. gracillima, A. reticulata, 
A. Chabrierii [Elseodendron orientale], A. Guilfoylei, 
and A. Veitchii. DiefFenbachias have beautiful varie¬ 
gated foliage, while species of Panax, the pretty Reidia 
glaucescens, the Marantas, and Ardisia crenulata 
will flourish under similar conditions to the foregoing, 
and help to make a good collection of stove plants.— 
F. II. Swan. 
-- 
THE CULTURE OP FREESIAS.* 
Freesias are easily raised from seed, which should be 
sown as soon as ripe, say about the end of May or 
beginning of June, in a mixture composed of two parts 
loam, and one each of leaf-soil and thoroughly decayed 
manure, with the addition of some sharp silver sand. 
I find 5-in. pots to be the most useful size to use; they 
should be filled three parts full -of soil, of course not 
forgetting the drainage, and the seeds covered with 
about J in. of soil. Place them in a cold frame, 
keeping them slightly sprinkled when becoming dry. 
I do not shade unless the sunshine is very strong, as 
they seem to come stronger when not shaded. When 
the young plants appear give plenty of air at the back 
of the frame. 
I have tried transplanting the seedlings, but find it 
best to leave them in the same pot. If more than say 
ten seedlings appear in the size of pot mentioned, I 
would advise thinning to this number, in preference to 
transplanting the whole, as they will then have room 
to form good bulbs, and some of them will produce 
blooms the following season if allowed to remain un¬ 
disturbed. When showing signs of going to rest, 
gradually withhold water and do not attempt to 
remove the tops until they part readily from the bulbs, 
then lay the pots on their side3 where neither frost nor 
drip can affect them, allowing them to remain in this 
position until such time as the bulbs begin to make 
a start, which usually takes place with the old stock, 
about the end of August or the early part of September. 
Flowering bulbs are no doubt the best to start with, 
as they readily increase, when due care is taken. 
The same compost with a slight addition of loam, as 
recommended for sowing the seed, is what I have found 
the most suitable. I like to use small pots or pans for 
them, as I have had better results when using 5 in. or 
6-in. pots than when using pots of larger size. The 
pot or pan should be half filled with soil, pressing it 
tolerably firm, then laying in (if a 5-in. pot) about 
eight bulbs, and filling up the pot to within g in. of 
the rim with soil, pressing the same firmly. Flace in 
a frame fully exposed to the sun, keeping the frame 
close till growth appears, when air should be admitted 
as recommended for the seedlings. When fully growing 
* A paper read at the .Sevenoaks Gardeners’ Society by Mr. 
E, Hughes, Edenhurst Gaideus. 
the lights may with advantage be drawn off during fine 
days, and air left on during the flight to prevent the 
plants from becoming drawn. They should be removed 
about the middle of October to the greenhouse or 
vinery, and when in bloom to the conservatory or 
drawing-room, where they are sure to be highly appre¬ 
ciated on account of their delicious scent. 
I usually pot up my first batch about the 20th of 
August; much, however, depends upon the size of the 
bulbs. This batch generally comes into bloom about 
the third week in December ; the second batch—and 
with me the last—about the second week in January. 
I like to get them into bloom before the end of January, 
as at this season they come in so handy. If by chance 
the bulbs have started into growth, before being shaken 
out I should advise that they be given a size larger pot, 
with as little disturbance as possible of either root or 
blade, as I find them very impatient in this respect. 
When the flowering season is past, the pots are stood 
in the vinery or Peach-house, being careful not to let 
them suffer for want of water, as this is the time the 
bulbs are maturing ; they must still be cared for and 
not cast aside like an old shoe, and if a few spikes have 
been left a few pods of seed will also be forming, which 
are best left on till the pods are thoroughly ripe, when 
they may be sown at the earliest convenience. I might 
say that I never use manure water now, but make the 
soil very rich, for I find that manure, unless it be very 
carefully used, causes the tips of the foliage to turn 
yellow, which, of course, disfigures the plants and 
weakens the spike. 
-- 
CRICKET GROUNDS. 
Another source of evil which encourages weeds and 
makes refuse is continuous mowing without the box 
and leaving the ground unswept. It is believed by 
some that the short grass used in this way is good 
manure. Manurial properties it does contain, but the 
method of application does more harm than good. I am 
inclined to think the idea and adoption of the system 
has emanated from a knowledge of the action of 
decaying matter as seen in pastures, and is encouraged 
by that back-biter—the lack of sufficient labourers. 
The horse in the mowing-machine is kept at a trot, and 
other work equally pressing has to be done, men are 
driven to their wits’ end to overtake all—hence the 
idea serves an end and is adopted without questioning. 
But the fact remains that showering short cut grass, 
tips of moss and Daisy flowers back on the grass will 
nicely blanch the blades, making them delicate and 
tender, giving work for the rain-drops to punch the 
homeless moss home, making splendid bedding for 
harbouring and propagating slugs—a capital subsidiary 
to fine grass. What fools must those gardeners have 
been who, with tools called a “Daisy rake and besom,” 
dodged their time away taking the manure off! 
The grass on cricket grounds and lawns should be 
kept cleaned from all refuse, and to do this it is 
advisable to cut with the box, and top-dress with 
something else than with short grass. Top-dressing is 
universally adopted for pastures, cricket grounds and 
lawns. It is the principal way by which we renovate 
and maintain the fertility of the soil, and the con¬ 
tinuous shaving by the mowing machine exhausts and 
deteriorates the soil, making top-dressing imperative. 
Many, without considering the condition of the soil, 
believe if they give a top-dressing of something they 
have done their duty. This, of course, is wrong, for 
instead of maintaining the fertility, it may act in¬ 
juriously and exhaust its productiveness. It is therefore 
of vital importance to know, before top-dressing, the 
elements that are deficient in the soil, and these can 
be ascertained by analysing. 
Practical men in grass management can, with com¬ 
mendable accuracy, from their experience and observa¬ 
tion, hit the nail on the head, and at once say what is 
required to maintain productiveness. But there are 
others who from lack of experience cannot, but by 
analysing they will find it the best method, and where 
large expenditure is premeditated I would strongly 
advise them to adopt it. It is clear that the nature of 
a top-dressing ought to be composed of those elements 
that are deficient in the soil, and for inert soils it should 
be composed of substances that will produce decomposi¬ 
tion. A top-dressing for cricket grounds must not 
cause too rapid a growth and coarseness, while owing to 
the variety of soils, and their diversity in situation, it 
is impossible to give a recipe for a top-dressing that 
would suit the varied conditions. It will be better to 
consider a few of the substances that can be used. 
Lime is one of the most important substances used, 
and is invaluable for pastures, but on most cricket 
grounds it must be used sparingly, and on no account 
should it be used but by practical men. Lime from a 
chemical point of view is not a manure ; it is an 
aggressive and corrective agent, or to be clearer still, 
a mere forcer brought in contact with the elements of 
fertility in the soil, compelling the soil to give these up 
for the nourishment of plants. To assist in making 
this clear, let us take an example : Old pastures are 
invariably rich, being fattened by the excrement of 
animals and the surface of roots rich in decaying 
vegetable substance, and often it is the case that the 
quantity of forage yielded is not equally proportionate. 
But if top-dressed with lime, a forcer and an aggressive 
agent is supplied, it forces the land to yield up 
its richness, it dissolves the decaying roots and inert 
vegetable matter, converting them into manure, which 
yields an abundance of grass. On the other hand, where 
little fertility is, it will act injuriously, and force the soil 
beyond its powers.—•/. Cameron , Cargilfield, Edinburgh. 
-- >X< -- 
ORANGES ARE NOT THE GOLDEN 
APPLES OF THE HESPERIDES. 
The Golden Apples of the Hesperides of the ancient 
poet were by succeeding generations of his own country¬ 
men believed to be the mala citria, that is, the Citron ; 
and modern nations of western Europe for a long time 
attributed the name to the Orange. When Hercules 
is said to have obtained the Golden Apples from Atlas 
none of the Orange family were known in Europe, and 
not for centuries afterwards. The Golden Apples in 
question are now supposed to be real, but idealised, 
and were either Apples, Quinces, or Pomegranates, as 
the ancients had a habit of calling every fruit that 
resembled the true Apple in size, or the shape of an 
Apple, adding an adjective to indicate the kind, and that 
generally meant the country from whence they came. 
Popular names in those days were just as changeable, 
transferable, and deceptive as they are at the present 
day with us. The Peach was called malum persicum, 
that is, Persian Apple, by the ancients, and the same 
name was applied to the Citron, the first of the 
Orange family that was heard of in Europe. When 
Macedonia’s madman, Alexander the Great, invaded 
and conquered central Asia, setting up a Greek empire, 
he opened up the way for commercial enterprise 
between the east and the west. From specimens derived 
from Media, that is, northern Persia, Theophrastus 
described the so-called Median or Persian Apple, and 
his description was copied by succeeding writers for 
500 years. The fruit, he says, was not eaten, but smelt 
sweet as the leaves did, and was laid amongst clothes 
to drive away the moth ; it was also an antidote against 
poison. The tree was furnished with sharp thorns, and 
the leaves were like those of the Andrachle (Arbutus 
Unedo or more probably A. Andrachne). 
The property the fruit had of driving away vermin 
gave rise to a popular name, which, although of 
erroneous application, and attacked by the learned in 
those times, nevertheless not only clung to the species 
under notice (Citrus medica), but also supplied the 
generic name used by botanists throughout the world 
at the present day for all the species. The popular 
Greek name was kedros, and was applied to several 
Conifers, such as Cedar and Arbor-vitae, but particularly 
Thuya articulata, pieces of which were laid in clothes- 
chests to keep away vermin. The word kedros was 
corrupted by the Italians into citrus. In Greece we 
find that the popular name kitrion was universally 
known amongst the people, whereas the learned only 
called it Medicon melon (Median Apple). 
For some time after the Citron had been introduced 
to Europe its cultivation was attended with very little 
success, for the trees were grown in earthenware pots 
and bore no fruit. This would be during the first 
century A.d. ; but by the beginning of the third 
century the trees were planted on the south aspect of 
walls running east and west, and were successfully 
fruited. During the fourth or fifth century Lemon 
trees were grown with success in the open air in 
Sardinia and near Naples, where the climate was 
tempered by the sea. 
All other kinds of Oranges, or the so-called Hesperian 
Apples, were introduced to European countries at a 
much later date than the Citron. The Lemon derives its 
name from the Arabic limum, and that again from the 
Indian name. The Lemon tree, as well as the 
Paradise Apple tree, had found its way to Palestine 
before 1240 a.d., but both were supposed to have been 
imported to Europe after that time by the Crusaders, 
or by the Arabs before them, during the time they 
invaded the south of Europe. The same agency during 
the same period brought the Orange proper to Europe, 
In August, 912 A.D., according to the history of 
Masoudi, an Arabian, the Orange was brought from 
