410 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
February 28, 1891. 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
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SEASONABLE WORK in the GARDEN. 
Calatheas.—A number of these are popularly 
known as Marantas, but the cultural treatment suitable 
for the one will also apply to the other. The old 
plants may now be increased by the division of the 
roatstock. This should be done carefully so as to 
injure the tleshy rhizomes as little as possible. If done 
now before the plants commence to grow, they will re¬ 
establish themselves in a short time. 
Gardenias, Ixoras, &e.— Cuttings of these 
taken now will root with more certainty than those 
inserted soma weeks ago, when the temperaturo 
was low, and the light very bad. Dipladenias, 
Allamandas and Cyanophyllum may be propagated in 
like manner. The side shoots of the last named, if 
there are any, will give the mo3t satisfactory results. 
Crotons.—Strong crowns inserted singly in small 
pots will, upon the formation of roots, constitute useful 
plants for decorative purposes. If the young plants 
are meant to be grown into specimens, then strong 
shoots with a number of small laterals may be selected, 
so as to constitute a good foundation upon which to 
build up the plant. 
Alocasias.—The old and specimen plants of 
Alocasia metallica, A. Lowii, A. Veitchii, A. Thi- 
bautiana and Schizocasia Sanderiana may now be re¬ 
potted in a compost of fibrous peat, sphagnum, 
charcoal, and silver sand. As they develop aerial roots 
largely, the compost should be loose in texture and 
spongy, so that the roots may ramble freely through it. 
In order to bring out the proper variegation in A. 
macrorhiza variegata a poorer compost with a greater 
quantity of loam should be used. 
Petunias.—Old plants of double varieties, and also 
those which were selected for preservation from the 
seedlings last year, may now be cut down and placed 
in heat to induce them to throw up young shoots for 
cuttings. Do not give any water after cutting down 
the plants till they show signs of moving again, unless 
they get very dry. 
Pancratiums.—Bulbs of this class, including 
Hymenocallis, may now be re-potted before the season 
is farther advanced. Pot large bulbs singly in 5-in. or 
fi-in pots, according to the relative size of the bulbs ; 
but five or six selected bulb3 may be put into a large 
pot, either for cut flowers or for producing an effect. 
Generally speaking, the single bulbs can be put to the 
greatest variety of purposes. 
Pimeleas.—If such species as P. decussata, P. 
spectabilis, and others of that class are desired to be 
in flower about June and July, the tips of the shoots 
should be pinched out about this time. Dracophyllum 
gracile may be treated in the same way. 
Auriculas.—The plants have now commenced to 
grow again, and will require constant attention during 
the month of March. Seeing that the leaves are 
developing, it is a certain sign that root action is also 
taking place, and owing to these facts it will be 
necessary to attend to them regularly in the way of 
watering. Ventilate freely on all favourable occasions 
to prevent the leaves from getting drawn and weakly. 
Prick off seedlings as soon a3 they show the first 
rough leaf, inserting them in pots or pans. The shift 
into fresh soil will prevent many of them from dyino 1 
ofT. 
Vines.—AVe still have a return of cold weather 
now and again, especially at night, so that the tem¬ 
perature of the early house need not yet be higher than 
65° at night. As the temp.erature rises in the morning 
put on a little air if at all favourable, increasing it 
with the degree of heat. The object of this is to 
prevent cold draughts from playing upon the tender 
foliage of the Vine by allowing the temperature of the 
house to rise too high, and then opening the venti¬ 
lators widely. Close the house early while the sun is 
still shining upon it, in order to economise artificial 
heat. 
Peach.es.—Attend to the work of tying in the young 
shoots intended for next year’s fruiting. All shoots 
that arise where there is no room to lay them in, or 
that arise in front of the shoots, and spoken of as 
breast wood, should be pinched back to a few buds, 
which will generally develop flower buds and form spurs 
if so exposed to light as to get well ripened. Apply the 
syringe vigorously on the least appearance of red- 
spider. 
0range3.—Trees which have been neglected may 
still be re-potted, provided due care is taken that the 
roots are not injured. A compost consisting of good 
fibrous loam, four parts, and one of well-rotted farmyard 
manure with a quantity of bones and sand, answers all 
the requirements. Do not over-pot the trees ; it is no 
advantage to them. 
Vegetable Seeds.—Take advantage of the soil 
when in suitable condition to sow the-main crop of 
Onions and Leeks. Parsnips may also be sown, and 
the seed of some of the early Short-horn Carrots. A 
good sowing should also be made of Cabbages, Broccoli, 
Brussels Sprouts, Greens, and others of the Brassica 
tribe, according to the necessities of the place. 
-- —>X <-- 
EUCHARIS CULTURE. 
The Eucharis, said Mr. Harry Fox, in a paper read at 
theCaversham Park YoungGardeners'Mutual Improve¬ 
ment Society, was introduced into this country in the 
year 1851, from New Grenada, the first species being 
E, Candida, which was closely followed by E. grandi- 
flora, or Amazonica, in 1854 ; while in 1882 we obtained 
E. Sanderiana. There are five known species according 
to NicholsoD, but the three above-mentioned are the 
most popular. The fragrance and graceful habit of the 
Eucharis make it very useful for decorative purposes. 
It is propagated either by seed or off-sets, but in private 
establishments the latter plan is mostly adopted, being 
by far the quicker. When potting, should an increase 
be wanted, the bulbs should be shaken clean away from 
the soil, and well washed, separating the flowering from 
the side ones. The largest and oldest should be put 
into pots according to the size required, and the young 
ones into smaller pots, placing them in a temperature 
of 75° to 80°. A good compost is made up of fibrous 
loam, cow manure, and sand. Good drainage is very 
essential, as they require copious supplies of water when 
established ; but for a few weeks after potting, watering 
must be very carefully attended to. Where £-in. 
bones are obtainable, a good handful thrown over the 
crocks is very beneficial. It is a good plan to plunge 
them in cocoanut fibre, and where room will permit a 
house wholly devoted to them is advisable, as then 
there is nothing to prevent them from obtaining the 
attention they require. 
Shading must be closely watched, as the leaves being 
of a fleshy nature are very soon scorched, and good 
drenchings with, the syringe in the morning and 
afternoon at closing time is also advisable, taking care 
that the fibre round about the pots is not allowed to 
get dry. I am not, said Mr. Fox, going to advocate 
drying off to induce the bulbs to flower, as I firmly 
believe it is quite unnecessary. I have seen them 
flower very freely when never allowed to get dry, and a 
more healthy lot of plants I am sure it would have 
been difficult to find. In the growing season give them 
nothing but manure-water, and as soon as the flower 
spikes begin to show, weak soot-water is a good thing, 
as it keeps the soil in order, and the foliage green and 
healthy. When they have done blooming, the flower 
Spikes should never be allowed to rot down into the bulb, 
as by so doing the first leaf which should have 
followed the flower spike is apt to rot off, and so delay 
the next blooming. If the growth ol the Eucharis is 
noticed, it is clearly seen that immediately after the 
bloom, follows a single leaf, and then two, so by this 
first leaf rotting off it may be easily seen what effect it 
has on the rest ; but by pulling the spike it may be 
drawn clean out from the centre, and so leave a clear 
course for the foliage. 
One of the greatest pests'associated with the Eucharis 
is mealy-bug, and a batch of plants is seldom seen 
without some of it. Another enemy is the Eucharis 
mite, which is a small grub very hard to detect with 
the naked eye. A great deal has been written at different 
times as to the cause and cure of this, some attributing 
it to over-feeding, and others to potting in too rich a 
compost ; but for my own part I should say its 
appearance is too often caused by over-drying. By 
drying them off as they may be seen sometimes, they 
almost begin to shrivel before they are allowed 
to have any water ; thus the foliage and roots get 
into a very sickly state, and like most things when 
not in a flourishing condition are soon affected, and 
with greater harm than if in an healthy state. It has 
been said that when once plants are affected it is 
impossible to get rid of them, so the only resource is to 
put them on the fire. It is known, however, to have 
been prevented by shaking the bulbs clean out as soon 
as the foliage is seen to turn yellow, and washing them 
in soft soapy water, looking well into the centre of the 
bulb, as the mite eats its way right from the bottom. 
ARDENING ffflSCELLANY. 
--i.- 
Birds and Fruit Buds. 
Personal watching combined with an occasional taste 
of gunpowder will do much to keep these robbers off, 
but this is not always convenient or profitable. A good 
bird scarer is made as follows:—Cut from a piece of tin, 
or wood, a good representation of a cat as if in the act 
of leaping after something, touch this up with a bit of 
old fur, a few bristles, and so on to make it look as 
genuine as possible, and suspend the dummy from the 
centre of its back by a short piece of black elastic about 
3 ins. long. This will cause it to rise and fall, and if 
it be hung near the top of such trees as Plums, Damsons 
&c., or if bush trees, suspended from a strong stick 
adjacent to the Gooseberry and Currant bushes, the 
wind will do the rest. Now watch the result; shift 
its position now and again, and there will not be seen 
many birds that can stand the threatened swoops of 
puss. I have myself tried rabbit skins stuffed, and 
these answer as well as the above. I practised these 
devices before the sharp weather left us, and I have 
not seen any birds settle on the trees from which a 
dummy is hanging. They come to some Apple 
trees hard by, but as yet have not touched the Plums 
and Damsons.— J. Wright, Orche Hill Gardens, Bucks. 
I have watched with great interest what has been said 
in your columns about birds and buds. The birds did 
not touch a bud here until about a fortnight ago, and 
the Sparrows are doing most of the mischief. Last 
year the birds began on the buds in December, Plums 
being their favourities, and where the trees are not 
netted they will take every bud. They have just begun 
on the red Currants, but Gooseberries they have not 
touched. The Bullfinches and Chaffinches are very 
fond of the buds of early Pears, just as they are begin¬ 
ning to burst. Peaches do best of all wall fruits here, 
and are never netted. Taking an all-round glance at 
the fruit trees, I have never seen the buds look better 
than they do this year.— E. B ., Bnshey Heath, Herts. 
Ants in the Hothouses. 
Where these pests are once established, gardeners 
know too well the evils they bring in their train, also 
the difficulty of exterminating them to any appreciable 
extent. . I have found the following the best method of 
dealing with them. I follow almost the same lines as 
those laid down by “ E. W.” (p. 374), but substitute a 
syrup made from the best sugar, and adding a few 
drops of Potassii cyanidium (poison), previously dis¬ 
solved in water, say a piece the size of a filbert to a 
quart of water, kept closely stopped. I send you the 
contents of one vessel which had been down for three 
days.— M. Murchison. [Our correspondent’s remedy 
must be a most effectual one, judging from the thou¬ 
sands of dead ants he has sent us. If any of our readers 
should try the same compound, we hope they will not 
send us the “ bag 1 ”—Ed.] 
Apple, Lord Burghley. 
After this late period of the year it is pleasant to 
taste a home-grown Apple ; and those who are 
acquainted with Lord Burghley know that the flavour 
is pleasant and refreshing, especially if used after some 
of the foreign Apples with which our markets and 
fruiterers’ shops have been stocked from before 
Christmas till now, and will be until a fresh crop has 
been harvested. The fruit is of medium size, roundish, 
and five-angled on the sides and top. The skin is 
green when the fruit is gathered, with a large red 
patch on the sunny side, but as it mellows it becomes 
of a clear golden yellow, with or without a crimson 
patch, according to circumstances; and the whole is 
dotted over with prominent russety specks. The flesh 
is yellow, and even now firm, but crisp, tender and 
sweet, with a Pineapple flavour. It is in season from 
December to May, and of the first quality for dessert 
purposes. Notwithstanding the fact that it was raised 
so long ago as 1865, it has not attained that popularity 
which its merits deserve. Why this should be so it is 
difficult to perceive, when we consider the high qualities 
of the fruit, its long-keeping properties, and the fact 
that it bears well in all ordinary seasons. 
Hyacinth Soap. 
Hitherto the penetrating odour of the Hyacinth does 
not appear to have been fixed or utilised for a purpose. 
The journal Scmpervirens states that a soap manufactured 
at Haarlem makes use of a new procedure, and fabricates 
a toilet soap having the perfume of the Hyacinth. 
