March 14, 1891. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
447 
early frosts before the slats are filled. ’Vhere the 
ground at command is limited, it is a good plan to sow 
Spinach between the rows of Peas, which may be done 
at the same time as sowing the Peas, while another 
sowing should be made in August for winter use. 
It is scarcely necessary to refer to the Broad Bean 
further than to say that two sowings will in most cases 
be sufficient to meet the ordinary demands, the first 
about the beginning of February, and for the main crop 
some time in March. I may say, in reference to the 
main crop, that it is advisable to steep the seed before 
sowing, as it is of great advantage in forwarding their 
vegetation. 
Next in order in this class comes the French or 
Kidney Bean. This is an excellent vegetable, and is 
exclusively forced during winter and spring. For an 
early crop outside a good warm situation should be 
chosen, such as a border in front of a south wall, or 
any other situation that is well sheltered. About the 
beginning of April is quite soon enough to make the 
first sowing, and for the main crop the beginning of 
May will be a suitable time to sow. For a succession 
another sowing should be made in June. The Scarlet 
Runner is also a most useful vegetable, and generally 
serves a double purpose in the garden. In the first 
place it greatly beautifies the garden by its profuse and 
attractive flowers, and secondly we all know its high 
value as a vegetable. To meet the demands of ordinary 
establishments, two sowings will be sufficient, the first 
about the beginning of May, and another about the 
beginning of June. Nothing further need be said 
regarding these, as they generally succeed well in 
ordinary soil with a good exposure. 
The Cauliflower, like the Pea, requires close atten¬ 
tion as regards succession. For an early crop a sowing 
should be made some time in August, and about three 
weeks after the seedlings appear above ground they 
should be pricked into a cold frame to protect them 
during winter. But great care should be taken to give 
them plenty of light and air when the weather will 
permit; in fact, the lights should never be closed, 
except in very cold and frosty weather. About the 
middle of March they should be planted out on some 
sheltered spot, and should the weather prove too cold 
for them they will require to be protected by hand¬ 
glasses or any other substitute. For a second crop a 
sowing should be made about the end of April, and for 
successions another could be made in May, and again 
in June, and these I think should form a good succes¬ 
sion during the season, and should meet the demands 
for ordinary use. 
Broccoli succeeds the Cauliflower, and coming in 
when other vegetables are scarce, is consequently much 
appreciated. In many small gardens one sowing will 
be found to be sufficient, and that about the beginning 
of April; of course, in more extensive establishments, 
another sowing should be made in May, and for a late 
crop, sow again in June. In most parts of the country 
gardeners experience great difficulty in preserving them 
during a severe winter, and consequently a number 
of plans have to be devised to protect them ; the 
one which is most commonly practised is laying them 
with their heads to the north. 
Next in order comes Cabbage, which I need scarcely 
say is an universal favourite. In order to keep up a 
supply during the greater portion of the year, three or 
four sowings must be made. As a first or early crop, 
a sowing should be made about the end of July, and 
these will be ready for transplanting in September. A 
second sowing should bo made in August, and these 
should remain in the seed bed until spring, when they 
should be transplanted ; for the third sowing the 
first week in March will be soon enough, and if neces¬ 
sary, a fourth sowing should be made in May. From 
these a supply can be had during the greater portion 
of the year, and for the remaining portion, Savoys and 
Brussels Sprouts will make good successions. In 
ordinary cases one sowing of Savoys will be sufficient, 
and this in March. The same remark applies to Sprouts, 
although some recommend making a sowing in August' 
to enable them to have good strong plants for the 
following season. 
Although with the Onion there is not so much 
trouble in keeping up a succession, it is none the less 
an important crop. For the earliest supply, a sowing 
should be made some time in August, according to the 
climate. They do best in good rich soil, and previous 
to sowing, the surface should get a good top-dressing of 
soot and wood ashes, as it is of great advantage to the 
plants, and at the same time is one of the best 
preventatives we can get of the maggot. Those sown 
in August can be transplanted in the spring into good 
soil, where they will grow to an enormous size. The 
main crop should bo sown about the beginning of 
March, but one must be guided by the condition of the 
soil, as the seed should never be sown when the soil is 
wet. When the plants have got fairly well up, a good 
dressing of soot should be given, and a showery day is 
the best to do this ; with the exception of thinning 
and keeping them free from weeds, they will not 
require any more attention till they have to bo 
harvested. 
Next comes the Potato—an universal favourite—but I 
shall notenter into details as to its general cultivation. 
The seed for the early supply should be planted in a 
well-sheltered position about the beginning of February, 
and after then at intervals which must be determined 
by the demand, until the main crop is planted about 
the middle of March. 
The Turnip is, I think, the most popular and useful 
of root crops, and consequently very extensively grown. 
The middle of April is quite soon enough to make the 
first sowing, and May for the principal crop. But to 
get a good supply of iresh Turnips, I would recommend 
making a slight sowing every three weeks. The Carrot 
is also a useful and extensively grown vegetable, and 
for an early supply I would recommend making a 
slight sowing about the middle of March, but for the 
main crop the middle of April will be soon enough. Of 
Parsnips, one sowing is quite sufficient, and this in 
March ; there is no fear of them running to seed, as 
they are perfectly hardy. 
Celery requires a great deal of attention during the 
season, and it also requires a moderately rich soil ; but 
moderately poor soil will serve equally as well, pro¬ 
vided there is plenty of good manure to be had. For 
an early crop a slight sowing should be made about the 
beginning of' February, and for the principal crop the 
beginning of March will be soon enough. For a late 
crop, a sowing should be made in May. Of salad plants 
the chief is the Lettuce, as it is always in demand when¬ 
ever it can be had. For an early supply the seed should 
be sown in August, and transplanted when fit into a cold 
frame, where they can remain till March, when they can 
be planted out, and to keep up the succession a sowing 
should be made once a month. Radishes are also 
extensively grown for salads, and in order to keep up a 
fresh supply a sowing should be made once a fortnight, 
beginning in January. Almost the same remarks 
apply to Mustard and Cress, but a constant supply can 
always be had by sowing in boxes, placed in moderate 
heat. — John Ilighgate, Caversham Park Gardens, 
Reading. 
-- 
Hardening Miscellany. 
-- 
Warwickshire Peas. 
There is an old horticulturist living at Kenilworth, 
which is famous for its castle ruins and also for Straw¬ 
berries, who has for years past given much attention to 
hybridising, especially amongst Peas. Mr. Tipping is 
now getting on in years, and has done good work in being 
the successful raiser of three early varieties which have 
a reputation in Warwickshire. Kenilworth Early is 
the result of a cross between Sutton’s Ringleader and 
Burbidge’s Eclipse. William the Conqueror is a cross 
between Kenilworth Early and Dickson’s Favourite. 
Early Bird is a fine early Pea, the result of a cross 
between Maclean’s Advancer and Kenilworth Early. 
These three varieties passed into the hands of Mr. 
Burbery, of the Crewe Farm, Kenilworth, and were 
introduced by him, but they were raised by Mr. Tipping, 
and to him the honour belongs. Mr. Burbery is 
introducing another new variety this year, English 
Wonder, which bears a good report, but of this variety 
we shall hear more during the season. Mr. Tipping is 
also the raiser of a white-eyed, long-pod Bean, and 
several of those who have grown it, report it to be very 
mild flavoured, more like a Pea ; this is in great request 
in the Kenilworth district. I think it is the first 
white-eyed Broad Bean we have had.— IV. D. 
A Nice Question, 
I wish to submit to you a question suggested by the 
schedule of prizes just issued by the National Auricula 
and Primula Society for the exhibition to be held in 
April next, at the Drill Hall, Westminster. The 
schedule contains two classes; one for “twelve 
Primulas, distinct species,” and one for “ six Primulas, 
distinct species.” What I wish to know is, Can 
Primula sinensis be shown in either of these classes ? 
There is no qualification as to hardy Primulas. 
It might be objected that a variety of P. sinensis 
i3 not truly a species, but simply of garden origin ; 
but then among the plants of what is termed P. 
Auricula, that are staged (and three exhibitors will put 
up a distinct representative each), are forms which do not 
represent the true species, but are simply representative 
of it. Garden varieties of P. Sieboldii are shown as repre¬ 
senting the species, and the same can be said of others. 
It appears to be that P. sinensis is clearly admissible ; 
but I shall be glad to have your opinion on the matter. 
—Midlands. [According to the strict letter of the 
schedule, we should hold that any one garden form of 
P. sinensis, of P. Auricula, or of;P. Sieboldii, as repre¬ 
senting those species, though improvements (in a 
garden sense) on the originals, can be shown in either 
class without fear of disqualification. But had we to 
determine the question by the spirit of the schedule, 
then our ruling would certainly be to the contrary, 
because there can be no doubt that what are intended to 
be considered as distinct species are those which have 
not been improved by the florist, in the same way as 
have the three species specially indicated.— Ed.] 
Astilbe japonica. 
Most gardeners are so familiar with this plant under 
the name of Spirtea japonica that it seems they will 
never recognise any other, although the plant is not 
only no Spiraea at all, but does not even belong to the 
same natural order. The Spiraeas are Rosaceous plants, 
but Astilbe belongs to the Saxifrage family. As evidence 
of the difficulty that has been experienced in properly 
locating A. japonica, we have only to glance at the 
numerous synonyms or aliases which have been given 
to the plant. These are : Spiraea japonica, S. barbata, 
Hoteia japonica and H. barbata. The variegated 
variety with golden netted veins—namely, Astilbe 
japonica variegata—has also been called Spiraea reticu¬ 
lata. In proportion as the plant is extensively cultivated 
and grown for forcing, so extensively has one or other 
of the erroneous names been disseminated. The real 
name is quite exceptionally employed outside of botanic 
gardens in this country. 
Magnolia stellata. 
The habit of this Japanese Magnolia is very similar to 
that of the Chinese M. conspicua, but it seems to be 
much dwarfer ; at all events it flowers while still in a 
comparatively small state, say from a foot upwards. 
Like the 1 ulan above mentioned it is deciduous, and 
the flowers expand in the months of March, April, or 
May, according to the state of the weather. This 
spring it will flower somewhat later than us-ial owing 
to the low temperature of winter keeping vegetation at 
a standstill. The flowers are produced singly at the 
ends of the shoots, and are 3 ins. in diameter and pure 
white, whereas the flowers of the Yulan are not ahvays 
pure white. Another distinction is that the petals 
become reflexed when fully expanded, and the petals 
are linear-oblong, so that the fragrant flowers of this 
species are different in appearance from the great cup¬ 
like blooms of M. conspicua. The membraneous and 
deciduous leaves vary from obovate to elliptic. The 
species is frequently grown in gardens under the name 
of M. Ilalleana. A very effective way of growing this 
Magnolia is to plant it singly or in beds upon the 
grass. 
The Big-rooted Californian Cucurbit. 
Those who are interested in curious plants would find 
something interesting in Echinocystis californica, 
better known under the name of Megarrhiza californica. 
Both generic names are very significant, and applicable 
to some conspicuous and characteristic feature of the 
plant. Echinocystis comes from echinos, a hedgehog, 
and refers to the curiously spiny fruit, which is globular, 
and about 2 ins. in diameter. Megarrhiza comes from 
nugas, large, and rliiza, a root, and refers to the large 
tuberous rootstock of the plant. It is a member of 
the Cucumber family, and a native of the dry climate 
of California—a fact which no doubt accounts for its 
tuberous nature, by which it is able to subsist during 
the period of drought. It is hardy in this country, 
and might be utilised to cover dry banks, but more 
especially banks ornamented with boulders of stone ’ 
and large tree roots, over which the stems of the plant 
could climb, and form a natural and living drapery 
during the summer months. The plant is easily raised 
from seeds, which are of large size, and notable for the 
way in which the cotyledons rise above the soil, yet 
adhere to one another as if in one piece. 
