576 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
May 9, 1891. 
New Tuberous Begonias. 
General Graham. —The leaves of this variety are 
remarkable for their large size and rich dark velvety 
green colour. The flowers are also large and very 
double, of a rosy scarlet hue ; and the broad petals are 
arranged around a single centre. Miss Emma Hatdf.n 
Eames.— The leaves in this case are smaller, less 
distinctly lobed, and dark green. The flowers are of a 
beautiful salmon-pink, large and double, with the 
petals rather irregularly arranged around a few centres. 
Both received First Class Certificates when exhibited 
by Messrs. H. Cannell & Sons, Swanley, at the Royal 
Aquarium, Westminster, on the 29th ult. 
-- >3K -- 
THE SPECIES OF LEOPARD’S 
BANE. 
The name Leopard’s Bane was first applied probably 
to Doronicum Pardalianches from its being supposed 
to be poisonous to Leopards, but it is now applied to 
all of the species. They are Composites with large 
yellow flowers, and are of considerable ornamental value, 
particularly the spring-flowering kinds, which, with 
the double Marsh Marigold, constitute the most con¬ 
spicuous objects of that colour in the herbaceous border 
in March, April and May, according as the season is 
early or late. Most of the species in cultivation claim 
a share of attention from the fact that one or other of 
them will be in bloom from early spring till late in 
autumn. Their cultivation is of the easiest in any 
moderately good garden soil, but the quality of the 
flower heads and their duration or continued succession 
will much depend on the moistness of the soil during 
the warmer portion of the summer. Propagation is 
easily effected by division of the rootstock early in 
spring and again in autumn upon the accession of moist 
but growing weather. The latter time is very suitable 
for most of them,because growth is not then interrupted. 
The Caucasian Leopard’s Bane (D. caucasicum). 
—This is one of the first to bloom, commencing in 
March if the weather is mild. It is also the dwarfest 
species which is in any way common. The stems are 
about 1 ft. high, or often less, furnished with a few 
small ovate leaves, and terminating in a solitary flower 
head. Others are developed later on, but singly, from 
the axils of the leaves. The radical leaves are reni- 
form ; and the species may readily be recognised by 
the glossy and smooth appearance of the whole plant. 
Its earliness alone should recommend it. 
The Plantain Leopard’s Bane (D. planta- 
gineum ).—The typical form of this is found wild in a 
few British localities, and also in the western part of 
continental Europe. The radical leaves are ovate and 
stalked, while those on the lower part of the stem have 
a winged petiole, and the uppermost ones are stalkless. 
The flower heads are large and usually solitary from 
the apex of the stem and the axils of the leaves. The 
variety D. p. excelsum is more popular than the type, 
and under favourable conditions attains a height of 
5 ft. In the climate of London, however, which is 
characterised as a dry one, the stems are more often 
seen about 18 ins. or 2 ft. high. Its special value lies 
in the fact that if properly cultivated it keeps up a 
succession of bloom from March to October. The 
terminal head expands while the plant is yet in a dwarf 
state. In order to keep up a succession of bloom, the 
plant should be grown in rich soil, and broken up and 
transplanted before the rootstock gets weakened by 
overcrowding. This really is the secret of keeping up 
a succession of bloom by encouraging fresh growth. 
The Austrian Leopard’s Bane (D. austriacum). 
—In this species we have one of the most ornamental 
of the genu3, because its closely leafy stems terminate 
in a cluster of heads varying from one to five. Its 
habit and height are similar to that of D. caucasicum, 
from which, however, it may readily be recognised by 
its dull green hue, its hairiness, and by the more 
numerous leaves that gradually change from stalked 
and cordate to lanceolate, and finally to cordate, clasping 
the stem as we proceed from the base upwards. The 
flowering season of the Austrian species also commences 
about three weeks later (as a rule) than the Caucasian 
one. Introduced from the Continent in 1816, it is not 
so common in private gardens as its merits deserve. It 
proves amenable to pot culture, and market growers 
use it largely for this purpose, as the specimens to be 
seen on the stalls or hawked about the streets testify. 
Columna’s Leopard’s Bane (D. Columnce .)—The 
radical leaves of this species are kidney shaped and 
stalked, while the cauline ones grasp the stem and vary 
from the base upwards as in the case of D. austriacum. 
The species commences to bloom in spring, producing 
large heads. Introduced from the Continent in 1824. 
The Great Leopard’s Bane ( D . Pardalia - nches .)— 
The stems of this plant vary from 18 ins. to 3 ft. in height 
according to the nature of the soil and season. The 
radical leaves are heart-shaped, while the stem bears 
only a few ovate stalkless ones, distantly arranged. 
It is a native of continental Europe, but must have been 
introduced to Britain at a very early period judging 
from the fact that it is naturalised in some parts of the 
country and is included in most British floras. At one 
locality in the north, where it must have been planted 
many years ago in a wood, it has so completely 
monopolised a large area of ground that it appears one 
sheet of yellow when in bloom, and after the stems die 
down the ground is bare. It is later in coming into 
bloom than any of the above and constitutes a 
succession, but is rather a coarse plant in comparison 
with them. 
-- 
CHRYSANTHEMUM CULTURE 
FOR EXHIBITION BLOOMS. 
Growers and exhibitors of the Chrysanthemum have 
entered upon a busy time with their favourite flower. 
Cuttings have been and are being struck in vast 
numbers. Some growers hold that the Japanese 
section require a longer season of growth than the 
incurved varieties, except a few, such as Barbara, Eve, 
Mabel "Ward, and others. They strike the cuttings of 
their Japanese in, December, and of the incurved 
varieties at the end of January and on through February. 
I am well aware some growers strike their cuttings 
later, and it is a matter affected by locality. I have 
heard one grower say, in reference to the incurved 
varieties, that he always succeeds in obtaining better 
flowers, with broader florets, by late rather than by 
early striking or rooting of his cuttings ; and he 
further remarked that this applies especially to the 
Empress and Queen family. 
Modes of Striking Cuttings. 
“ Striking ” is a term so much in use among gardeners 
that I employ it, and it really means rooting the 
cuttings. Some place them in a bed in a cold frame, 
others prefer to have them in pots in a cold frame, 
some in a gentle heat, and others in a hot-bed in a 
vinery. The heat should be gentle ; care should be 
taken that the cuttings are not unduly drawn, and so 
become lanky. When potted, the young plants should 
be encouraged to make strength and a steady growth 
from the time they are hardened off, re-potted as 
required, and placed in the open air in May. But the 
matter of placing the plants in the open is one which 
depends upon the character of the weather. 
Treatment in the Open. 
The finest lot of bush Chrysanthemums I ever saw—• 
plants that were being grown on for conservatory and 
house decoration in autumn and winter—was at 
Chatsworth, the seat of the Duke of Devonshire. Mr. 
Thomas Speed was then the Duke’s gardener, and he 
top-dressed the plants with soot several times during 
the summer, and the rich and luxuriant dark green 
foliage feathered the stems of the plants down to the 
soil. The late Mr. Wildsmith grew bush specimens at 
Heckfield, as well as plants on a single stem for speci¬ 
men blooms. The former he used to plunge in heaps of 
soil about his kitchen-garden paths, and he did this to 
keep the roots cool and moist during hot weather. 
Watering is a matter of the first importance ; if the 
plants are suffered to become dry, there is a serious 
check, and the foliage decays, and then naked stems 
result. 
Taking the Buds. 
One of the most important points in Chrysanthemum 
culture when specimen blooms are wanted, is that 
which heads this paragraph. Mr. E. Molyneux, one of 
our best authorities on growing Chrysanthemums, says, 
“ The most perplexing part of Chrysanthemum culture 
to the beginner in the production of large blooms is the 
act of ‘ taking ’ the buds.” “ Taking the buds ” is a 
term employed among Chrysanthemum growers, and 
some have thought it means pinching out the buds. 
It really means pinching off the growth shoots which 
form round the bud, and when these are removed it 
leaves but one flower to develop, and the whole 
strength goes into it. As a matter of course, this 
process applies only to flowers that are required for 
exhibition purposes, though something of the kind is 
attempted in the case of plants intended for conser¬ 
vatory decoration, when it is thought wise to remove 
some of the buds, that the flowers of those remaining 
may become finer in consequence. 
The Selection of the Bud. 
I need scarcely state that the selection of the bud is a 
most important matter in the production of first-class 
blooms. It is an act which cannot be performed on 
any particular day of the month, but the state of each 
individual plant has to be considered when the wished- 
for bud appears, and no hard and fast line can be laid 
down as to the date when every plant should set its 
buds. As a general rule, what is known as the “ crown 
bud” is the one selected to produce a fine bloom, but 
in some instances this particular bud will not do this, 
especially when it shows too early. Usually, plants 
which are grown to produce large blooms show only 
three buds during the growing season. What is known 
as the first “ break ” is formed from the middle of May 
to the same time in June, but its appearance is governed 
by certain conditions, such as the time the plant was 
propagated, the variety, the treatment given to it, and 
something depends on the locality in which the plant 
is grown. The next “break” is made during the 
month of August and the early days of September; 
this is what is termed the “crown” bud, and when 
this bud shows at the correct time for each variety, it 
is pretty certain to develop into a perfect flower. The 
third “break,” which is caused by the removal of the 
flower bud from the “ crown ” break, and which causes 
the branches to extend, produces what is known as 
the “ terminal” bud. In the South of England many 
growers depend upon this bud for the production of 
their best blooms of some of the varieties of the Queen 
and Empress type ; but in the North of England many 
plants produce this bud too late for the flowers to be 
out in time for the early exhibitors. Some varieties 
will show a second bud in July, but this is regarded 
simply as a freak of nature. When the “crown” buds 
form too early, the flowers come coarse and devoid of 
the substance which makes an incurved flower perfect, 
namely, depth and solidity, the two most essential 
points in a good bloom. 
So far I have treated of the incurved types. Mr. 
Molyneux states that 
The Japanese Varieties 
require a longer period to develop from the bud stages 
to the flower than do the incurved, therefore the culti¬ 
vator must consider this. For instance, the buds of 
some Japanese sorts, taken say on the 6 th of August, 
will not be fully in bloom sooner than some incurved 
varieties, the buds of which were not selected until say 
the 10th of September. As a general rule, around and 
south of London, “crown” buds, which are set from 
the 18th of August to the 1st of September, aro the 
most likely to produce the best results. Those persons 
situated farther north will have the buds showing a 
little later—some, perhaps, at the same time ; while in 
the extreme north many will not set their buds till later. 
When the bud is forming in the points of the shoots, 
growth at that part appears to be at a standstill for a 
time ; below this place side shoots will push, and 
around the bud three shoots will be found growing. 
If the bud appears perfect in form, remove the shoots 
surrounding the bud as carefully as possible, holding 
the shoot securely in the left hand, and the young 
growths which are to be removed should be bent sud¬ 
denly down one at a time and they will snap off. At 
morning and evening, when the shoots are damp with 
dew or syringing, is the best time to perform this 
operation ; the shoots below the bud should likewise be 
removed, thus the whole energy of the plant is con¬ 
centrated in the flower bud. I have to express my 
obligation to Mr. Molyneux for much of the information 
in the foregoing paper.— E. D. 
-—►>*«- 
BANANA PRODUCTION IN 
TROPICAL COUNTRIES. 
The Banana industry, which was only commenced in 
18S3, says the “ Handbook of the American Republics,” 
is becoming more and more important every day. The 
Bananas, which grow spontaneously in the tropical 
countries, have been from that date an article of com¬ 
merce. Formerly they were planted in coffee plantations 
to shade the young trees and shelter the grains from the 
wind that would sweep down the unmatured berry. 
The fruit of the Banana was used to fatten pigs, or grew 
without any cultivation in the mountains and plains, 
thus going into absolute waste. Bananas principally 
come from the British West Indies, Cuba, Honduras, 
Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Guatemala, British Honduras, 
Colombia, Hawaiian Islands, Mexico, and Salvador. 
The labouring classes in these countries generally kept 
a few plants, and used the green fruit boiled with salt, 
or roasted on hot coals, instead of bread. The varieties 
of Bananas are great, there being some twenty-five 
or thirty classes. The better ones are, when perfectly 
ripe, baked in an oven with a slow fire, after being 
peeled, and buttered along a longitudinal incision 
