150 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
Xovember 3, 1888. 
varieties of fruit trees find in some soils what they 
require, while others do not, and in consequence 
become subject to canker. 
Poop. Soil and Weak Wood. 
The sixth paragraph is, “or it (the soil) may be 
poor. ” I quite agree with this, as I believe a deficiency 
in the soil of the necessary food of the tree is the cause 
of canker. Seventhly, “ The wood may be weak, and 
is not well ripened, when a sudden frost, especially 
after rain, ruptures the vessels, and this forms the chief 
cause of canker.” Unripe wood, which is, however, 
often the result of imperfect nutrition, is productive of 
much mischief of a temporary nature ; but as canker 
attacks well-matured wood, I cannot believe it to be in 
any case its cause, although when its real cause is at 
work it may appear on such wood. In the eighth 
paragraph the author repeats himself. ‘ 1 Any direct 
injury, however, to the bark of a tree is from friction 
of one branch upon another, the pressure of a clothes’ 
line tied from tree to tree, or injury from a ladder in 
fruit gathering, may all cause it, even in healthy trees.” 
This calls for no further reply than that given to the 
first paragraph. 
Finally, the author states that “ Canker commences 
with an enlargement of the vessels of the bark, more 
apparent, by the way, in Apple than in Pear trees, 
and contimres to increase until in the course of a year 
or two the alburnam dies, the bark cracks, rises in 
large scales and falls off, leaving the trunk dead, and 
ready to break off with the first wind if not before 
removed. The canker shows itself quickly, and if the 
cause be sought for it will often admit of a remedy. 
The most usually effective is a good supply of nourish¬ 
ment to the trees affected, together with the removal 
of the parts injured.” I confess that the preliminary 
symptoms described as the enlargement of the vessels 
of the bark have escaped my observation ; but there 
appears to be some contradiction in the statement, as 
while the first symptoms of the disease are described as 
extending over a year or two, further on it is stated 
that canker shows itself quickly. However, although 
I differ so much from the writer of the article in the 
Pomona as to the causes of canker, we are agreed on 
The Eemedy —“A Good Supply of Nourishment 
to the Trees.” 
In 1886 my attention was especially directed to plant 
food, having been requested to write a paper on that 
subject for the Birmingham Gardeners’ Association. 
In the same year, having noticed that a number of 
Apple trees in my collection had become unsightly 
through canker, I marked about a dozen of them for 
destruction ; but while studying the subject of plant 
food, which involved the consideration of the analysis 
of various plants, I was very much struck with those of 
the fruit and wood of the Apple in "Wolff’s Aschen 
Analysen, the great authority on plant analysis. I 
found that the fruit contained an exceptionally large 
proportion of soda and the wood of lime. This at once 
suggested the idea that my soil might not contain 
sufficient of one or both of these elements to supply 
the wants of the Apple tree; therefore, I resolved, 
instead of destroying the marked trees, to give them 
and all my Apple trees a good dressing of a complete 
artificial manure which contained full proportions of 
soda and lime. In the following season, 1887, which 
was exceptionally hot and dry, either through the 
drought, the manure, or some other cause, not a spot 
of active canker could be found ; all the edges of the 
old wounds on the marked and other trees almost as 
badly affected, had put out granulations and healed 
over, and the trees, many of which had previously 
ceased to extend, made healthy and vigorous growth. 
Last winter the trees were again dressed with the same 
manure ; this season they have been exposed to the 
most unfavourable conditions ; the soil to a great depth 
was almost dust-dry when they were making their first 
growth, while an army of caterpillars ruined what 
foliage was made. Then followed the most continuous 
cold weather and rain experienced for many years. 
Notwithstanding conditions so conducive to the ex¬ 
tension of disease, there is at the present time still no 
appearance of active canker. The trees have been 
carefully inspected by some experienced pomologists, 
who, doubtless, will confirm my statement. Short as 
is the time during which the trees have been submitted 
to the treatment, I can only conclude that the arrest of 
the disease is due to the supply of elements of food 
required by the trees, of which a sufficient quantity 
was not previously contained in the soil. 
Artificial Manures. 
It remains to say that the manures necessary to restore 
a tree to health vary as the soils ; although the ashes of 
the wood of the Apple tree contains 71 per cent, of lime 
—an exceptionally large quantity—it would not be 
necessary to supply this element on a lime formation ; 
nor would soda he required in a soil near the sea, 
although on other geological formations or situations a 
deficiency of one or both may be the cause of canker. 
Like conditions apply to the other elements. 
1 arious soils require such manures as will supply 
their various deficiencies ; but as it is most difficult to 
ascertain even by analysis what may be the deficiencies 
of a soil, the practical way of dealing with the subject 
is to study the analysis of the ashes of the plant in 
question, and to use a manure which is composed of 
these elements. 
The following formula, which may be varied as 
circumstances require, is suitable for the Apple tree :— 
Superphosphate of Lime. 12 parts. 
Nitrate of Potash . 10 „ 
Chloride of Soda . 4 ,, 
Sulphate of Magnesia . 2 ,, 
Sulphate of Iron . 1 ,, 
Sulphate of Lime. 8 ,, 
This may be used at the rate of a jj-lb. to the square 
yard over the whole extent of soil within reach of the 
roots ; it need not be dug in. One effect of the manure 
may be relied on, if it does not cure canker it will, at 
any rate, most certainly benefit the trees. 
-- 
The Am ateurs’ Garden. 
Protecting Christmas Eoses. 
It is a ruinous practice to lift Christmas Eoses for the 
mere sake of forcing, or having them indoors at a time 
when hardy flowers are scarce. Of course, if they grow 
very freely, and are abundant, the risk of losing a few 
of them annually is a matter of small importance ; but, 
as a rule, they grow so slowly in the dry warm atmo¬ 
sphere of the southern counties that cultivators can ill 
afford to lose them. In heavy clay soils they do not 
make vigorous growth, although, as a rule, they flower 
fairly well if the soil be rich. In order to avoid dis¬ 
turbing the roots, frames or hand-lights, as may he 
most convenient, should now be placed over the plants 
to protect the flowers from the action of winds, dashing 
rain, and other atmospheric influences that may be 
likely to damage them. The plants themselves are 
perfectly hardy, and where growth has been vigorous, 
the leaves grow so strongly as to form a complete 
canopy over the blooms, protecting them from snow 
and rain. In the absence of these, however, hand- 
lights or frames are necessary to preserve the purity of 
the blooms, otherwise they get spotted, and become 
pinkish or red at the tips of the sepals. They ulti¬ 
mately become green, whether protected or not, but not 
till after the lapse of many weeks. 
Liliums. 
Now is the time to re-pot such bulbs as have flowered in 
the summer and are now perfectly at rest, or nearly so. 
At all events, an effort should be made to have the 
bulbs re-potted before growth commences afresh. 
Lilium candidum throws up its bottom or radical leaves 
in autumn, and they keep fresh all the winter. If 
grown in pots, the bulbs should therefore have been 
re-potted about August or September, although some 
may even manage to do it after those months bv careful 
handling. L. longiflorum and L. 1. Harrisii commence 
growth early, and potting should no longer be delayed, 
unless the bulbs have been taken out of the soil and 
are now stored in a dry condition. The numerous 
varieties of the Golden Eayed Lily of Japan (L. auratum) 
and of L. speciosum, better known in gardens as L. 
lancifolium, should also be potted now, together with 
any other less common species which the grower may 
fancy. A compost of good fibrous loam, leaf-soil and 
peat in equal parts, to which a good quantity of silver- 
sand has been added, will answer the purpose admirably. 
Be particularly careful in draining the pots, as stagnant 
moisture is very injurious. Silver-sand placed round 
the bulbs will assist greatly in keeping them sound. 
After potting plunge in ashes in a cold frame till they 
commence to grow, when they may be urged on in heat 
if necessary. 
Camellias and Oranges. 
Even in the best regulated establishments these are 
liable to scale, mealy-bug, and other pests, which by 
their excrements render the plants extremely dirty, 
unsightly, and ultimately unhealthy. Now, before the 
buds get so large as to be easily broken off in the 
operation of cleaning, the latter must be accomplished 
without delay. Eemove the plants to be cleaned to a 
shed or other place of shelter to avoid saturating the 
atmosphere, paths, and stages of the greenhouse at this 
dull period of the year. Sponge the leaves on both 
surfaces if they are dirty with water, to which an 
appreciable quantity of Gishurst Compound or Fir Tree 
Oil has been added. Soft soap alone is very effectual. 
After this has been done lay the plants on their sides if 
not too large, otherwise the pots or tubs should lean 
against some support to prevent breaking of the 
branches ; then syringe the plants thoroughly with 
clean water to remove the loosened vermin and the 
insecticides, and after the foliage gets dry, replace the 
plants in the greenhouse. 
Chrysanthemums. 
Those who desire to try their hand at the training of 
specimen plants, either in the bush or standard form, 
must commence at once by taking cuttings and growing 
them on for next year. Insert strong specimens in 
good but sandy loam, and place them in a cold frame 
to root. 
Preparing for Fruit Tree Planting. 
Those intending to plant fruit trees should now prepare 
the ground without further delay. "Whether old 
garden soil or not, it should be well prepared before 
planting is attempted. Borders for pyramids, bush.es, 
cordons, or wall trees, and breaks or squares for 
pyramids and standards, should all be trenched to the 
depth of 2 ft. or more, loosening up the subsoil 
beneath it, but by no means bringing the latter to the 
surface. It is not requisite or desirable that the roots 
should go down to the depth indicated, but by this 
means more efficient drainage is ensured. Do not 
plant on low-lying land near rivers if it can be avoided, 
as the trees are liable to suffer from spring frosts, and 
the blossom frequently gets destroyed. 
If the soil is tolerably good and holding, no manure 
need be given, but when necessary on account of the 
thin sandy or gravelly nature of the soil, then let 
farmyard manure be incorporated with the surface-soil. 
More may also be given, and applied as a mulching 
after the trees have been planted. The object should 
be to retain the trees as much as possible near the 
surface, where the soil is always best and where feeding 
can be applied, and where they may be benefited by 
the warmth of the sun, and enjoy the advantages of a 
thoroughly aerated soil. Bring in fresh soil from old 
pastures if obtainable and apply a quantity of lime. 
-- 
THE GARSTON ORCHIDS. 
Since the Liverpool Horticultural Company made 
Orchids the main feature at Garston, continued im¬ 
provement has taken place in this extensive establish¬ 
ment, which, notwithstanding the wholesale nature of 
the trade both in importing and sending out, is in 
every branch well kept, and highly creditable to its 
manager, Mr. John Cowan. Among the Orchids, the 
Mexican things, cool house, and intermediate Brazilian 
subjects form the principal feature—and among them 
some wonderful batches of the very finest species 
appear. 
LiELIA ANCEPS VARIETIES. 
Here, for example, we find a whole houseful of white 
varieties of Leelia anceps, both of the long-hulbed type, 
which comprises L. anceps Sanderiana and L. a, 
Schroderiana (or, as it has been more recently but 
erroneously called, L. a. Stella), and the short-bulbed, 
of which the peerless white L. a. alba, of Mr. Wm. 
Bull, is the type, and of which strain the Liverpool 
Horticultural Company has been the only importer in 
quantity. Of this short-bulbed strain it is alleged and 
proved by evidence that it flowers much quicker after 
importing than the long-bulbed. If the Company 
could but retain the whole until they flowered, what a 
sight it would be ! but such are the exigences of a 
brisk trade, that probably not one hundred pieces will 
be kept to flower at home. In the coloured L. anceps, 
too, this Company has scored with the L. a. Morada, 
which it has been generally conceded gives the richest- 
coloured and largest flowers, together with the most 
floriferous habit of any Ltelia anceps. L. autumnalis 
and L. albida, too, are in quantity, and in fine masses, 
and the pretty L. furfuracea is also in stock. 
The Odontoglossums 
Are fine, and some rare yellow-ground hybrids have 
flowered amongst 0. crispum ; and the pretty 0. 
Cervantesii, of which there is a large quantity of the 
plain-lipped and the “ decorum ” type, has been stiU 
further enriched by a fine importation of the rose-tinted 
0. C. Morada (signifying dark-coloured), also imported 
here for the first time. A good importation of 0. 
bictonense, too, appears, as well as large stocks of 0. 
nebulosum and 0. citrosmum. In some long neat 
span houses are a fine lot of 0. Eossii majus sending up 
spikes or in flower ; a good lot of the orange-scarlet 
Epidendrum vitellinum majus, and the beautiful 
Oneidium tigrinum, Cattleya citrina, over 1,000 scarlet 
Sophronitis, many in bloom ; a grand lot of the large 
