278 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
December 29, 1888. 
marks made for the plants, a little flattened mound or 
hillock of the prepared soil was formed about 4 ins. in 
height ; on the top of each of these little hillocks an 
Asparagus plant was placed, spreading the roots equally 
round. The plants properly set in position were then 
covered up with additional compost, which was made 
firm by the hands; this raised the mounds to about 
6 ins. or 7 ins. in height, and 20 ins. in diameter at the 
base. In order to ensure to the plants a thorough 
supply of water, a little hollow or basin was formed on 
the top of each of the mounds to hold water when 
applied ; this was a necessity, because when the light 
sandy soil of which the mounds were composed became 
dry, the water ran off them as off a duck’s back. 
The planting and mounds having been thus finished, 
a thorough soaking of water was given to each, which 
percolated through the whole mound and settled the 
soil about the roots of the plants. Next a thick 
mulching of short grass was spread all over the mounds 
to prevent evaporation and keep them moist. In dry 
weather the damp mounds of soil soon attracted birds, 
that if left alone would have scraped them down level 
with the beds in a few days; to prevent this, a light 
covering of long stable litter was spread over the short 
grass, which stopped them from committing the 
mischief. The treatment required during summer 
consisted in giving water occasionally in dry weather ; 
and as the growth of the plants progressed, a small 
stick was fixed to each, to which all the shoots were 
securely tied before they became feathery and heavy at 
the tops. In autumn, all those mounds on which a 
plant had failed to grow were marked with a stick to 
indicate where to plant a fresh one in the following 
year. The ripe stalks were then cut down, and a 
mulching of rotten manure added ; this completed the 
first year’s course of cultivation. 
Now it will no doubt appear obvious to you that 
those cocked-up mounds of soil must have been 
very susceptible to drought, and therefore very pre¬ 
carious and unsuitable for a moisture-loving plant like 
Asparagus. They certainly entail more attention than 
cultivation on the natural level of the soil, but when 
well mulched they resisted drought wonderfully 
well. It would have been better to have had a larger 
body of compost about the plants—as much as would 
have connected the mounds, and thereby formed con¬ 
tinuous ridges the whole length of the rows ; this I 
would have done, but at the time I had no more 
available soil at hand, and so had to make the most of 
what I had. 
Second Year’s Course of Cultivation. 
Early in the spring of the second year, having ac¬ 
cumulated another lot of soil of the same quality as I 
have already described, it was taken to make up the 
spaces between the mounds ; the mulching of manure 
that had been applied in the previous autumn was 
allowed to remain and be covered up with this 
additional soil. This completed, the Asparagus quarter 
now presented the appearance of a series of ridges about 
6 ins. or 7 ins. in height, and 20 ins. in diameter, the 
summit being left a little hollow to hold water when 
applied. In April, just as the shoots were pointing 
through the soil, an application of nitrate of soda was 
sprinkled over the ridges, choice being made of a rainy 
day, which caused it to dissolve and be carried down 
to the roots rapidly. Some time after a sprinkling of 
guano was applied, and again later on another appli¬ 
cation of nitrate of soda. 
Where plants had failed to grow the first season, 
others were planted in their stead, in the month of 
May. Water was only applied on one occasion this 
summer; but would have been given frequently only 
the source of supply ran dry. To counteract drought, 
a thick mulching of short grass was spread over the 
ridges early in the season, which answered very well, 
and the plants increased in strength ; but with plenty of 
water they would no doubt have done much better. As 
in the first season, stakes were put to each plant, and 
the growths carefully secured thereto. In autumn, 
the stalks were cut down and another mulching of rotten 
stable manure added, which completed the second year’s 
course of cultivation. 
(To he continued.) 
- -««* - 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
-——- 
Veronicas for Amateurs. 
There is a large number of Veronicas natives of 
Australia or New Zealand, and which are so nearly 
hardy that amateurs might well grow a few of them to 
keep the greenhouse gay in winter. They will not 
flower at that season, but they form compact and 
interesting evergreen bushes that will maintain a fresh 
appearance, even in a greenhouse that is not artificially 
heated in any way. 
Amongst the first rank is Veronica Traversi, that 
outlives all but the severest winters out of doors, 
forming a dense but neat evergreen bush bearing a 
profusion of white flowers, while from 1 ft. to 3 ft. in 
height. It is one of the hardiest. Very different 
from this is V. pinquifolia, the foliage of which is of a 
hoary glaucous colour, and always interesting whether 
in flower or not. It varies from 4 ins. to as many feet 
in height, and when laden with its white blossoms is 
very interesting. It is also highly suitable for dry 
banks out of doors, such as rockeries, where it does not 
often much exceed 1 ft. in height. V. formosa grows 
taller, but bears a great quantity of bright blue 
flowers. The foliage is dark green, but not so pretty or 
distinct as in the former species. Then there are 
several varieties of V. Andersoni, differing in the colour 
of its flowers ; but the most important is V. A. varie- 
gata, which when fairly well grown is very handsome 
with its creamy yellow and white foliage. All are 
easily propagated from cuttings, and may be kept in a 
cold frame if not required in the greenhouse. 
Christmas Eoses Indoors. 
It is not everyone who is in possession of a few plants 
of Christmas Eoses that is willing to dig them up and 
place them in the greenhouse or even the window for 
the sake of their exquisite snow-white flowers at the 
Christmas festive season, as by so doing the roots get 
damaged to a great extent, and if the plants are not 
properly taken care of till a suitable season for planting 
out again, many of them perish. Plants of any given 
size can, however, be grown in pots, boxes or tubs, all 
the year round, and transferred to the greenhouse or 
the table in the dwelling house when in flower, without 
doing any damage to the roots whatever. The pink 
tints that much exposed flowers acquire in the open 
air are altogether avoided or prevented when they are 
expanded under glass. The plants should not be kept 
in dwelling rooms for any great length of time, unless 
a light position near the window can be given them, 
otherwise the health of the foliage will suffer. After 
the weather becomes sufficiently mild in spring, the 
pots or tubs containing the plants may be stood in a 
sheltered, somewhat shaded position for the summer, 
and well looked after in the matter of watering. If 
the pots can be plunged in ashes or coco-nut fibre, and 
somewhat shaded, comparatively little water will be 
required. 
Tulips and Ferns. 
A very pretty and effective combination at this season 
of the year can be had by inserting a small Fern—either 
a Maidenhair or a Pteris—in the pots containing Tulips 
after the latter come into flower. In the case of the 
Due Van Thol Tulips which are now in flower, very 
small pieces of Fern must be used, so as not to overtop 
the former, as that early-flowering kind does not 
exceed 5 ins. or 6 ins. in height. The best plan to be 
pursued under the circumstances is to have small 
seedling Ferns in pots, and there is usually plenty of 
them where old plants are grown. A few of the 
seedlings that spring up spontaneously might even be 
potted up for the purpose for use when required. By 
this means dwarf plants may be had for the occasion. 
After the Tulips come into flower, knock some of the 
Ferns out of their pots, and plant them in the centre 
of the pot of Tulips. Lily of the Valley might be 
grown on in pots or boxes, and when in full flower 
also worked in amongst the Tulips. By these means a 
very pretty and effective combination may be secured. 
To get the plants named in flower at Christmas some 
forcing will be necessary, but it can be done a little 
later on in the greenhouse. 
Orange Trees. 
Some objection is taken to the growing of Oranges in 
small greenhouses, on account of the size they attain, 
or the size necessary before fruit will be freely produced. 
The owners of small greenhouses would do well to 
obtain a few small specimens of the Otaheite Orange, 
which can be fruited freely when only from 10 ins. to 
14 ins. high. The fruits range in size from that of a 
marble to twice the size of a pigeon’s egg, and assume 
a good colour when mature. 
Chinese Primulas and Cyclamens. 
These, especially when in flower, should always be 
placed at the warmest end of the greenhouse, provided 
always that they are advantageously situated with 
regard to the light. The flowers will be all the more 
freely produced and keep in better condition by a 
congenial warmth. Comparatively little watering will 
be required, but that little must not be neglected. A 
dose of weak liquid manure given once or twice a week 
will assist them in the production of large flowers. 
CHRYSANTHEMUM CULTURE.* 
Leaving the question of seed raising, the first step in 
cultivation is, of course, taking the cuttings. This 
may be done from November to April, and even May ; 
but I think the best time is the beginning of December — 
that is, if one has all the conveniences for growing the 
plants properly after being struck. Many amateurs 
whose accommodation is limited strike the cuttings, 
and then allow them to become drawn and spoilt for 
want of room to pot them on at the proper time. Those 
in this case would do better to preserve the stumps of 
their Chrysanthemums in a cold frame until the 
spring, and then insert the cuttings when there is 
more chance of their receiving proper attention. In 
choosing cuttings, preference should be given to the 
stout suckers which push from the roots, when these 
can be obtained ; but it is, however, not always possible 
to get these, especially from the Japanese kinds, many 
of which rarely throw up a sucker, and only produce 
stem-cuttings sparingly. Care should be taken in 
cutting these last down not to cut too low, but to leave 
a foot or so of the old stem, for want of which precaution 
we lost all our stock of Marguerite Marrouch some two 
or three years ago, not one of the stumps producing a 
cutting. Thousands of cuttings are spoilt annually by 
too much heat, becoming thin, spindly, and often mil¬ 
dewed, after which no amount of care can coax them 
into first-class plants. Putting them into perfectly 
cold frames is, I think, goiDg to the other extreme, 
though much preferable to too much heat. 
After several experiments, I have settled upon one of 
our small houses as the best place for the purpose. It 
is about 30 ft. by 10 ft., has a path down the centre 
with a bed on each side, in which the cuttings are 
plunged. One 4-in. pipe runs down each side of the 
house, returning under the beds, and as these pipes 
cannot be made really hot, the heat is just sufficient to 
keep the frost out. Though Chrysanthemums will 
strike in a cold frame, I am convinced that much time 
is lost during severe frost, when for a month at a time 
they just exist under coverings of mats, &c., which, of 
course, exclude light as well as frost. 
Treatment of the Cuttings. 
In taking cuttings, begin, if possible, with the late- 
flowering kinds, such as Cherub, Mrs. Heale, Meg 
Merrilies, Princess Teck, Eve, &c., which require a 
long season of growth ; insert them—that is, all the 
incurved and Japanese—singly in small thumb-pots. 
The Pompons and singles may he put seven or eight 
round a 4-in. pot. The reason for this is that some 
cuttings will strike much before the others put in at the 
same time, and so become drawn before being taken 
from the bed. The singles and Pompons may be kept 
in order by pinching the points out as soon as they 
begin to grow, which cannot be done with the others 
if they are intended for specimen blooms. No glass or 
other covering need be placed over the bed except for 
the latest cuttings in spring, which may require a 
newspaper laid over the beds for shade in the brightest 
part of the day. As soon as the cuttings are rooted, 
they should be at once removed to a bench nearer the 
glass to prevent drawing, one covered with ashes or 
coco-nut fibre refuse being preferable to bare wood, as it is 
easier to keep them in an equable state as regards 
moisture. 
At this stage the grower should make up his mind, if 
not done before, what style of plants he intends to 
grow, whether the object be exhibition, cut blooms, or 
conservatory decoration. Some growers are utterly 
blind to the beauty of a flower which will not at least 
figure creditably on the front row of a showboard, 
while others attempt to develop a bloom to the extent 
of which it is capable. I think myself that perfection, 
as in most things, lies between the extremes, and is 
best attained by endeavouring to bring each variety to 
perfection on its own lines— i.e., in the way best suited to 
its natural character. There are many varieties, as for 
instance Bouquet Fait, W. Eobinson, Source d’Or, 
L’Or du Ehin, Chevalier Domage, Tendresse, &e., 
which naturally form dense bushy plants smothered 
with bloom, forming beautiful objects for the con¬ 
servatory, and providing abundance of flowers for 
cutting. The only effect of disbudding these is to 
destroy the natural grace of the plant and throw away 
nine-tenths of the flowers, as the blooms are very little 
larger on a disbudded plant than when grown naturally. 
These remarks, of course, apply still more forcibly to 
the Pompons and singles. On the other hand, those 
who never disbud make almost as great a mistake, as 
it is only by limiting the bloom that the proper form 
of the incurved and the splendid size and c olour of the 
* Condensed from a paper read by Mr. Charles Pearson, of 
Chilwell, at the Horticultural Club, on December 11th. 
