630 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
June 1, 1889. 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
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Thinning Annuals. 
One of the greatest faults in the cultivation of annuals, 
both by amateurs and professionals, is the crowded 
state in which the seedlings are allowed to remain. 
This applies chiefly or almost solely to those the seeds of 
which are sown in the place where they are to remain. 
The seedlings come up in a crowded state, and in that 
condition they are allowed to remain till they flower. 
One crowds out the other till the remainder push into 
bloom with only a single stem. They produce a few 
flowers, run to seed, and what beauty they had is gone 
for a season. The stronger-growing kinds should be 
thinned out to 1 ft. apart, dwarfer ones to 6 ins. or 
3 ins., according to their habit and the bulk of the 
plant. Those who closely observe the ways of their 
plants will soon find which require most thinning. 
When judiciously done the plants are able to throw out 
side shoots that continue to develop flowers over a long 
period of time. Those that are raised under glass and 
ultimately planted out give better results, because their 
numbers are limited, and they are not therefore allowed 
to be planted too thickly. 
Summer Bedding. 
The more hardy kinds of subjects used for this purpose 
may safely be planted out the first week in June, 
provided they have been thoroughly hardened off by 
tilting of the lights from the frames for some time 
previously. Annuals reared under glass, including 
Stocks, Asters, Phlox Drummondi, Everlastings, 
Saponaria calabrica, and similar things will now be 
quite safe. Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Calceolarias, 
Lobelias, Golden Feather, Yiolas, and all the hardy 
variegated subjects used for edgings to beds may also 
be put out. Marigolds, both French and African, 
Dahlias, Heliotropes, Nasturtiums, and similarly tender 
plants, had better be kept a little longer in places 
where they can be readily covered up at nights in case 
of frost. 
Primulas and Cinerarias. 
Those about to try their hand at the growing of these 
may now commence by sowing a few seeds. The heat 
of the sun will now be sufficient to germinate the 
seeds, even in a cold frame, by keeping it close. A 
frame can now be spared for the purpose by the placing 
out of the bedding plants, or by transferring them to 
the open air. Take some seed pans, and drain them 
well by placing a good quantity of broken potsherds 
in the bottom. Over this put a layer of moss, and fill 
up with a compost of sifted loam, leaf-soil, and plenty 
of sand. Cover the seeds very lightly, and place a 
square of glass over the seed pans. Keep the frame 
quite close and shaded till the seedlings appear, when 
they should be gradually inured to the light. As soon 
as they are fit to handle, have them pricked off . into 
other pans or boxes, about 1 in. apart. Then, as they 
make a few rough leaves, pot them off singly, using a 
somewhat richer compost. 
Harrison’s Musk. 
Few plants are more suitable for gracing the front row 
of the benches in the greenhouse or conservatory than 
this. It is just now coming finely into flower, and the 
stems are erect and short-jointed ; but as the summer 
advances they will continue to elongate and produce 
a succession of flowers, and ultimately hang down over 
the front of the stages to the length of 12 ins. or 18 ins. 
The foliage is almost as fragrant as that of Mimulus 
moschatus (the common Musk), which was one of its 
parents. It is propagated chiefly by the division of its 
underground stems in spring, a few small pieces being 
placed in each pot. Those who have greenhouses to fill 
would find it admirably suited for the purpose, and as 
easily cultivated as the common kind. 
"Window Boxes. 
Except where planted with Arabis, Forget-me-nots, 
Wallflowers, and other things now in season, all plants 
used for winter and early spring work, such as 
Euonymus, Conifers and bulbs should be transferred to 
their summer quarters, and the boxes refilled. A few 
plants of Canary Creeper, tall climbing Nasturtiums, 
Ipomaea purpurata, generally called Convolulus major 
in gardens, or other climbers according to choice 
should be planted at the ends for training up the sides 
of the windows. Then a few tall plants should be 
placed along the back of the box, either of Pelar¬ 
goniums, Petunias, Fuchsias, Calceolarias, white 
Marguerites, or something, of a free-flowering nature. 
Then along the front, dwarf plants, such as blue 
Lobelias, Creeping Jenny, or even Ivy-leaved Pelar¬ 
goniums may be used ; but the arrangements should 
always be simple. 
Bulbous Plants. 
Cultivators in this country are beginning to recognise 
that it is not only possible, but can be made tolerably 
profitable to grow on their old bulbs again. Those now 
in the beds intended for summer planting will have to 
be lifted at once, or at an early date. This will, to a 
certain extent, check the proper development of the 
bulbs, but if planted thickly in lines in some out of the 
way part of the garden, and well exposed to the bene¬ 
ficial influence of the sun, they will gradually ripen. 
Daffodils, Tulips, and Crocuses take more kindly to 
lifting than do Hyacinths, and the Daffodils, if properly 
treated, will flower even better next year. 
-->X<-- 
ARDENING fllSCELLANY. 
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Narcissus poeticus patellaris. 
In 1886 I procured a few bulbs from a locality in 
England said to be the original one for the true variety. 
In 1887 most of the flowers were right ; in 1888 half 
had gone into the double form, known in Ireland ast he 
local one. This year the entire lot are double, but the 
seed vessels are not sufficiently suppressed to prevent 
seed formation if fertilised. While single the 
pods were annually full of seed, and I am now per¬ 
suaded that in this way we may have obtained our 
varieties Codlins and Cream, Butter and Eggs, and 
Eggs and Bacon. The double Poet’s Narcissus, imported 
from France, the large pure white one without a sign of 
red, is quite a different plant. N. patellaris plenus 
always retains the original tinge under the florets, and 
is also wild in the Pyrenees.— JF. B. H., Cork. 
The Dusky Geranium. 
One occasionally meets with this plant in a wild state, 
and a beautiful wilding it is. There are several forms 
of it in cultivation, differing chiefly in the colour of the 
flowers, which under certain conditions are remarkably 
flat and round compared with other species. The petals, 
however, when fully exposed to the sun become partly 
reflexed. They are purple in the best varieties, with a 
darker blotch on the base of each petal ; but in the 
variety G. p. lividum, the flowers are of a dusky brown. 
There are some fine beds of this species amongst the 
trees in the pleasure grounds at Syon House, Brentford, 
which when seen in the mass have a fine effect, and are 
well worth attention for planting in this way. 
Lily of the Valley Tree. 
Such is the popular name given to one of the finest of 
the Clethras—namely, C. arborea. Being a native of 
Madeira, it requires greenhouse treatment, and on 
account of its size we seldom see it grown, notwith¬ 
standing its beauty. It is stated to attain a height of 
8 ft. or 10 ft., but specimens in the large conservatory 
at Syon House, Brentford, considerably exceed this, 
although not planted out. When we saw them recently 
they were bristling with flower buds, which are borne 
in long branching racemes or panicles at the ends of the 
stems and side shoots. When expanded, the flowers 
are somewhat bell-shaped and pure white, resembling 
Lily of the Yalley, hence the popular name. The 
oblong, lanceolate, leathery, evergreen leaves may be 
compared to those of a Rhododendron, and when 
lightened up with the snowy blossom have a fine effect 
amongst other conservatory plants. 
The Smaller Evergreen Trumpet Honey¬ 
suckle. 
Bearing in mind the beauty of both the species and 
the variety under notice of this Honeysuckle, it is sur¬ 
prising how seldom it is grown—at least in the south 
of England. It is regarded as rather tender, but when 
planted against a wall, it not only survives our winters 
out of doors, but flowers beautifully even in some of 
the northern counties of Scotland. In severe winters 
it loses the greater part of its foliage, although 
naturally evergreen, but the wood remains quite fresh. 
In conservatories, where we more generally find it, 
flowers are produced during the greater part of the 
year, and a fine effect they have when hanging in short 
dense racemes in whorls at the end of long pendent 
shoots. The flowers are narrowly trumpet-shaped, 
with a short nearly regular lamina, and the whole is of 
a bright scarlet. The species is a native of the United 
States, from New York to Carolina, in dry stony woods, 
and when being planted in this country, this fact should 
be borne in mind ; it should not be placed in heavy 
clayey soils, which it dislikes. It is nearly always in 
full bloom in the conservatory at Gunnersbury House, 
Acton. 
Cotyledon farinosa. 
Healthy pieces of this species are very pretty in their 
snowy covering of farina or powdery material. Its 
appearance would suggest that it is a native of a dry 
country, where the rainfall is light, and the sunshine 
abundant. Conditions like these cannot be given it in 
this country except when grown under glass, where the 
foliage can be kept dry enough certainly. In the 
suburbs of London the fogs or some other atmospheric 
condition seem to disagree with it, as it does not 
thrive very satisfactorily at Gunnersbury House, Acton. 
That it can be grown to perfection, however, in this 
country under glass we have had ample means of 
verifying from a large healthy batch of specimens we 
noticed in the nursery of Messrs. H. Cannell & Sons, 
Swanley, Kent, where it is kept in a span-roofed house, 
and under dry conditions. In dry seasons it also does 
very well in carpet bedding designs during summer, 
where its dense tuft of narrow snow-white leaves shows 
off green-foliaged subjects to advantage. The stems 
elongate on old plants, so that the rosettes vary from 
2 ins. to 4 ins. high or even more. 
Sulphuric Acid on Lawns. 
Sulphuric acid is often strongly recommended in 
different ways to be used for destroying Plantains and 
Dandelions on lawns. I have often used it and found 
it very effectual. The best method in my opinion is 
to take a large-mouthed quart bottle and fill it about 
half full of sulphuric acid ; tie a piece of strong string 
securely round the top, attaching a piece of wood to 
carry it by. Then take an iron skewer about 15 ins. 
or 18 ins. long, and run it through a round flat piece of 
wood or a large cork at a convenient distance from the 
top to act as a guard for the hand ; dip the skewer into 
■the acid, and pierce the centre of the weed it is intended 
to destroy. A large piece of ground can be quickly 
gone over in this way with little expense and labour. 
Great care must be taken, as it is very dangerous stuff, 
and should never be left about or in the way of children, 
but always kept under lock and key when not in use. 
It would be wise on the part of the operator to put on 
some old clothes (boots especially), as the least drop 
will quickly burn a hole in them. I will give an 
instance : a few years ago I was operating in this way 
upon some Plantains, and the young ladies, thinking it 
fine fun, asked me to let them do it for themselves. I 
provided each with sulphuric acid, bottle, and skewer, 
and they went merrily to work, little heeding the 
caution I gave them. One afternoon was quite suffi¬ 
cient, as their clothes and shoes were completely spoiled 
by the acid. The acid should not be put into watering 
pots or metal implements of any description, as it 
quickly corrodes. It is also not necessary to dilute the 
acid with water, as a small quantity goes a long way, 
and the stronger it is the more effectual is its action. 
In fact, it would be better not to attempt its use unless 
the operator fully understands what he is about. When 
sulphuric acid is mixed with water, violent action takes 
place, and great heat is evolved, the temperature 
reaching above boiling point, and should any get into 
the eyes or on the face blindness or disfigurement would 
probably be the result. If it be mixed, water should 
never be poured on to the acid, but the acid mixed 
gently with the water, keeping it stirred all the time.— 
Alfred Gaut. 
Cunonia capensis. 
In order to flower this freely, a large house is necessary 
for its accommodation, as it is naturally a tall-growing 
subject, acquiring something of the dimensions of a 
small tree. Occasionally it may be seen in private 
establishments grown as an ornamental-foliaged stove 
plant, for which its pinnate leaves are admirably 
adapted. It cannot, however, be described as a popular 
plant, for the simple reason that flowering plants, aud 
especially soft-wooded ones, are the most popular at 
present. At Syon House, Brentford, it is grown 
planted out in the large conservatory, at one of the 
cool ends devoted to the cultivation of greenhouse 
plants. Being a native of the Cape, stove treatment is 
altogether unnecessary, except to cause a more rapid 
development of the foliage, which is ample, pinnate, 
and evergreen. The flowers individually are small and 
white, but they are densely aggregated in cylindrical 
spikes or spicate panicles really, and from the great 
length of the inflorescence, become pretty and interest- 
