294 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
January 5, 1889. 
growing season the syringe requires to be well plied 
amongst them, being careful to work it well under the 
foliage, which is very liable to be attacked with thrip 
and red-spider. 
They all root readily from cuttings, and in some 
instances may be obtained from seed. A compost of 
rich loam suits them well, and in the case of A. cristata, 
which is one of the best of them, and should be grown 
in bush form to obtain as many heads of its orange- 
scarlet flowers as possible, good doses of liquid manure 
may be applied as soon as the flowering-spike begins to 
show itself at the terminal point. 
A. aurantiaca Eoezlii is a useful winter-flowering 
sort, and should be grown in about 5-in. pots, with 
single stems, for decoration during the dull months of 
the year. 
A. Leopoldii and A. Fascinator are both plants with 
variegated foliage, the former with green leaves upon 
which are distinct white lines, the flowers being citron 
coloured ; the latter has leaves of a darker green with 
distinct white lines, the under surface of the leaf being 
of a purplish violet colour, whilst the inflorescence is 
bright vermilion. 
A. Chamissoniana and A. Chrysops are both good 
yellow-flowered kinds with distinct variegated leaves, 
and may be grown with profit in the general collection. 
The Amateurs' Garden. 
_ . ♦ . 
♦ 
Maidenhair Ferns. 
Many amateurs have a difficulty in maintaining their 
plants in a healthy green condition after this season of 
the year, especially if grown in windows. The real 
cause of the fronds dying in dwelling-houses is the dry 
atmosphere, which thin-fronded Ferns at all times 
dislike, especially if much fire and gas is burned 
in the rooms. A bell-glass would assist greatly in the 
retention of the fronds. In the greenhouse, not only 
the dry atmosphere but a low temperature must also be 
held accountable for the decaying of the fronds, which, 
in a more congenial atmosphere, would be partly pre¬ 
vented, and young ones would, in greater or less 
quantity, be thrown up, giving them a fresh appearance. 
It is bad policy, however, to cut down the fronds 
wholesale, even if they do look a little shabby. Those 
that are perfectly withered up may be removed, just as 
withered or decayed leaves may be removed from a 
Pelargonium ; but all that are still green, or partly so, 
should be retained to strengthen the fronds, in order 
that a good fresh set may be produced in spring when 
the temperature rises. 
Bedding Plants. 
The mild and damp or foggy weather that has prevailed 
for some time past has made bedding plants suffer 
considerably. Pelargoniums suffer most by this state 
of things, but Lobelias, Tropseolums and other soft- 
foliaged subjects also suffer more or less materially. 
Go over the whole carefully and pick off all the leaves 
showing traces of mouldiness, and then light a fire 
occasionally, even when no frost prevails, so that the 
damp may be dispelled. This should be given in the 
forenoon, giving at the same time plenty of ventilation. 
Watering cannot wholly be dispensed with, as poorly 
rooted subjects would in consequence suffer. This 
should also be done on the mornings of fine days, so 
that the superfluous moisture may be dispelled before 
the time to close the house. 
Planting Spring Flowers. 
The mild weather may induce many to plant out 
their spring-flowering subjects from their seed beds, 
where they still remain through lack of opportunity or 
from inconvenience at an earlier period. Amongst 
these may be included Wallflowers, Catchfly (Silene 
pendula compacta), Daisies, and even perennials, 
including Arabis albida and Aubrietia deltoidea in 
variety. This may conveniently be done, and should 
the mild weather continue, they will be well established 
before the flowering period. Many other subjects may 
also be transferred to their permanent quarters at this 
time, including Canterbury Bells (Campanula medium), 
Sweet Williams (Dianthus barbatus), Celsia cretica, 
and Foxglove, all of which furnish an enormous 
quantity of beautiful flowers in their season, and are 
easily managed by the least experienced. A long 
growing season, with plenty of room, enables these 
plants to develop their best capabilities. 
Primula obconioa. 
Now that this beautiful half-hardy Primula has become 
so common it might be more frequently employed by 
amateurs for the decoration of their greenhouses in 
winter. If kept in a healthy, slow-grow T ing condition 
it will flower all the year round. A moderate-sized 
pot, with just sufficient room for a little increase, and 
a compost consisting of good fibrous loam and a 
quantity of leaf-soil is all that it requires. The Chinese 
Primula (P. sinensis) does best, as a rule, when raised 
from seed annually, and grown on to the flowering 
size ; but P. obconica, which also comes from China, 
needs no such treatment. The old plant, with a little 
attention in the way of re-potting and occasionally 
dividing it, will reward the grower with a profusion of 
rosy lilac, almost white flowers, all the year round. 
Being almost hardy, a comparatively low temperature 
in winter will suffice—say, 40° to 45° at night, with a 
rise during the day. This is not necessary, however, 
unless it is wanted to flower, as it will keep perfectly 
healthy when frost is merely kept out. 
Rhubarb Forcing. 
Some prefer this in an unblanched condition, and if so, 
all that is necessary is to dig up a few roots and intro¬ 
duce them to the greenhouse. In order to preserve an 
air of tidiness, the roots may be placed in a box, and be 
covered with soil to prevent their being unduly dried 
up. Should blanched Rhubarb be preferable, this may 
easily be done by procuring a deep box, and after 
putting the roots in the bottom and covering them with 
soil, close the lid so as to exclude all light. In order 
to hasten growth, the box may be stood on the flue or 
over the hot-water pipes, as the case may be, and the 
soil kept moistened if necessary. By adopting this 
plan a quantity of crisp and useful stalks may be 
obtained without any additional expense, and will be 
much appreciated in the early part of the year. 
-- 
DECEMBER FLORAL FASHIONS, 
A great deal of the attention of our florists is given 
to the rich ornamentation of modern mantel-pieces and 
to corridors in house decoration. There is always one 
large effect in the latter, it sometimes being the hall 
fire-place, and again it is the settee where there is 
usually an oval mirror suspended above. Peter Bogart, 
who served a long apprenticeship with A. S. Burns, 
has distinguished himself by elegantly embellishing 
the Brokaw Mansion, where a daughter of the house 
was recently married. In the corridor, where there is 
a settee and a mirror above, an exquisite bit of floral 
business was done in the greenery. The settee was 
formed into a bank of Palms, the choicest specimens 
being used. The mirror was framed in a garlanding of 
Lygodium scandens. An elegant feature in the 
drawing-rooms was the designs of Passion Flowers in 
straw which were filled with Beauty Roses, and the 
foliage, covered with Asparagus, which were placed 
over the pier glasses. The mantels were festooned 
with pink Chrysanthemums, Roses and Lygodium 
scandens. 
Fancy Chrysanthemums of late varieties are much 
used for large effects. Mrs. Wheeler and Mr. Moseman, 
the stayers in old gold and crimson, are arranged with 
Ivies in immense careless bunches over pictures, easels 
and on cabinets. Clusters of growing Vines, such as 
Tradescantia, are quite the vogue placed on mantel¬ 
shelves and left to trail down. Growing plants in 
drawing-rooms are considered necessary to their beauty. 
In the best houses here the parlours are light ; the 
shades are lifted and there are growing plants, Vines 
on the mantels, Ferns here and there on tripods, and a 
few specimen Palms on a pedestal wherever there is 
room for one. 
Many of these plants are hired for the season and 
taken care of by the owners. Mr. Siebrecht has 
specimens all over the city in mansions where he looks 
after them, and if they begin to show signs of weaken¬ 
ing they are at once replaced and the invalids carried 
out to the plant hospital at his Rose Hill greenhouses. 
Wedding bouquets are of immense size, and also 
those of bridesmaids. The bouquet-holder appears once 
more, and this time with a clasp to fasten it to the 
glove, I suppose for the reason that it is too heavy to 
carry. Eleven hundred white Violets were put in one 
bridal bunch this week. Miss Brady’s wedding 
bouquet contained 600 sprays of Lily of the Valley, 
and her bridesmaids carried bouquets with 100 
“ Mermets” in each. Klunder makes a superb bridal 
bunch of white Orchids, with a fringing centre of 
Jasmine. It is about as lovely as anything can be, 
and his assistant, Wm. Irving Brown, can arrange the 
most aesthetic corsage bouquet or boutonniere of any 
floral artist in this city. He makes one of the former 
of Lily of the Valley, with the stems turned upward 
and protruding among white and purple Violets, with 
a bit of lacy Fern (Adiantum gracillimum) pushing 
out from every point. 
Boutonnieres are a fashionable gift from ladies to 
gentlemen. They are made up with great care and 
finish. Roman Hyacinths with a centre of white 
Violets is among the choicest boutonnieres for full 
dress ; they are quite large. For street wear a single 
Chrysanthemum is considered elegant. Violets are in 
great demand for corsage bunches to be worn in the 
street. They are pinned outside the wrap if the weather 
permits, and inside on the dress if there is danger of 
their being frost-bitten. Women will always take care 
of their Violets. They are the sweetest and choicest 
blossom a flower lover knows.— F. A. Benson, New 
York, in The American Florist. 
-->X<-- 
INSECTICIDES. 
I am afraid the advocacy of the use of paraffin in the 
garden has disturbed the equanimity of our old friend 
“ Gishurst Compound,” hence his note in your issue of 
the 29th ult., but if he has had a successful run of thirty 
years, he certainly ought not to be dissatisfied with the 
support that has been accorded to him by the gardening 
fraternity. He was always a mysterious being to me 
in the days of my youth, and since I commenced 
gardening I have mixed up many doses, as it has been 
my misfortune to have plenty of sponging. I have had 
hours together standing on the staves of a ladder—-not 
very pleasant for the feet—cleaning climbers infested 
with bug in a lofty conservatory. In my next beith 
I still had plenty of sponging, so much so, that I styled 
myself to my bothy mates “first sponger to Lord-.” 
The next situation I went to I still found my sponging 
abilities requisite, and being a departmental journeyman 
I had many words with my chief concerning some large 
Gardenias, smothered with my old enemy mealy-bug. 
I scarcely knew what to be at to keep those plants clean 
and preserve harmony ; but being then a reader of the 
Gardeners’ Chronicle, I one day espied an article from 
Mr. Rust, of Eridge Castle, praising paraffin for the 
extermination of bugon Gardenias. “Well,” thought I, 
“ we burn that oil in our bothy lamp, so I will try its 
effect on the plants.” I used it according to the 
directions given, which I think were, to use a wine- 
glassful of paraffin to a three-gallon can of water, so 
armed with the syringe and my can of mixture, I 
started on the Gardenias, and there was no mistake 
about the result, it finished every bug it touched, and 
the plants bore a bright glossy appearance. I was 
easier in my mind at once, and inwardly blessed Mr. 
Rust, for his advice saved me many angry words. 
Since then I have been a believer in the properties 
of paraffin as an insecticide, and would recommend 
your kitchen gardening readers to occasionally sprinkle 
their young Celery plants with a solution to prevent 
their being attacked by the Celery fly. — Pathfinder. 
-- 
HARDY ORCHIDS. 
Goodyera repens is a pretty little native plant, but 
one that is rarely seen under cultivation, although it 
is easily enough managed and very interesting. For 
many years I got it to do well and flower very freely in 
decayed Pine pins and sand, about equally mixed, and 
in a hardy situation. It must be well guarded from 
slugs, for they are its worst enemies—indeed, I know 
of no hardy Orchid that sooner becomes a prey to these 
night marauders than the one in question. They 
nibble half through the flower-stem ; nevertheless, the 
poor plant, for it has wonderful recuperative powers, 
bravely fights on, but all to no purpose, for another 
stealthy attack lays its head low—not only of the 
plant, but its owner too, for I have more than once 
felt heartily grieved and been low-headed (meditative) 
or finding my cherished specimens, just as they were 
about to flower, cut over in a single night. The only 
preventive is to put a couple of handfuls of gritty sand 
around each plant—this they detest. 
Some other Goodyeras I have tried out of doors, and 
the experiments have been most successful, such as 
with G. pubescens and G. Menziesii, the latter a rare 
plant that a good friend sent me from North America. 
They all seem quite at home if treated as those 
described for our native species. But not only for the 
beauty of their flowers are the Goodyeras worth growing, 
but the nicely marked foliage rarely fails to attract atten¬ 
tion. Let me say to anyone who has the chance to 
procure specimens of any of the Goodyeras, not to lose 
it, for they are easily grown, of great interest, and will 
well repay in beauty of foliage and flower, any trouble 
that may be expended on their culture.— A. D. 
Webster. 
