312 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
January 12, 1889. 
the best twelve Cyclamens in pots ; Mr. David "White, 
Redlees Gardens, Isleworth, was second. Mr. A. 
Carter, gardener to Alderman Evans, Ewell Grove, 
Ewell, took the first prizes both for twelve single and 
double Primulas ; Mr. Newel, gardener to Sir Edwin 
Saunders, Wimbledon Common, was second for single 
varieties. Mr. B. S. Williams, Victoria and Paradise 
Nurseries, Upper Holloway, took an extra prize for a 
table of foliage plants, which included hardy and 
indoor subjects. In the miscellaneous class he also 
exhibited foliage plants. A group of Cyclamens was 
shown by Mr. R. Clarke, Twickenham. Some plants 
of a new semi-double Primula were shown by Mr. 
J. Knight, Epsom. Mr. J. James, Earnham Royal, 
showed some Primula and Cineraria blooms. A group 
of foliage plants came from Messrs. John Laing & 
Sons, Forest Hill, who were awarded an extra prize. 
Garden sundries were shown by Mr. Benjamin Field, 
75a, Queen Victoria Street, E.C. 
The Conference. 
Owing to our being obliged to go to press while the 
Conference is proceeding, we are unable in this issue to 
do more than give the following paper, which was read 
by Mr. E. Molyneux, Swanmore Park Gardens, Bishops 
Waltham, on 
Manures for Chrysanthemums. 
This is a subject of a very complex nature, as it is 
difficult, if not impossible, to lay down any fixed rules 
that will be equally applicable for all districts. The 
best manures to apply, in order to produce the highest 
results in Chrysanthemum culture, can only be ascer¬ 
tained by a wide series of experiments conducted by 
growers in various parts of the country, using the same 
kinds of manures each in the same manner, noting 
their effects at different stages of the growth of the 
plants, and reporting the actual results at the conclusion 
of the season. It would then be seen how far each 
kind of manure was suitable for the soil in the different 
localities, as much necessarily depends on the natural 
soil in determining how best to increase its fertility by 
adding those constituents which it lacks. At the out¬ 
set I may say that I do not mean to treat the subject 
of manures in a scientific manner, but to detail facts as 
they have come under my notice in my own experience, 
with the addition of the opinions of some of our leading 
growers as founded on their practice. 
Fortunately for Chrysanthemum growers, prepared 
manures are numerous and easily applied, while many 
are inexpensive. In conversation with different cul¬ 
tivators of the autumn queen in various parts of the 
country I have noted an almost entire absence of 
reserve in discussing this matter. The days of supposed 
“secrets” are over, and I am pleased to say that I 
have found men generally willing to assist each other 
by giving their opinions freely of the merits or 
demerits of any particular kind of manures that have 
been tried. Mr. Garnett makes a suggestion that 
might prove of much service to growers :—“ That the 
National Chrysanthemum Society procure samples of 
wood from plants which have produced the best blooms 
in all the sections, in, say a dozen localities widely 
spread. By special analysis of each sample of the 
growth we should get at some basis as to the best 
manure to apply to the soil to produce the best results 
in culture. Chrysanthemums, for whatever purpose 
they are cultivated, have such a short season of growth 
that they must have all the support that can be use¬ 
fully appropriated by them ; and before the roots have 
exhausted the nutriment contained in the soil stimu¬ 
lants must be afforded, or a check will be received by 
the plants. "What best to give and how best to apply 
it is what we all desire to know, and to that end we 
are searching for information.” 
Manures and Soils. 
Manure for mixing with the soil is" the first consider¬ 
ation, as this is commencing at the foundation, so to 
speak ; the superstructure or full development of the 
plant to its utmost capacity is an after consideration, 
and perhaps the more important. Ammoniacal 
manures promote quick growth, but their excessive use 
must be avoided, in a wet season especially. The chief 
of these are sulphate of ammonia and nitrate of soda. 
Phosphatic manures (bones in different forms) con¬ 
tribute to firmness. Natural soil varies so much that 
a knowledge of its constitution is necessary to enable 
the cultivator to know what ingredient to add that the 
Chrysanthemum requires for its full development. 
Loam, as it is called, composed of the top spit of 
pasture, is considered to be the best medium for the 
roots. The constitution of this is the all-important 
point to study. For instance, to soil that is of a light 
or sandy nature, additions should be made which will 
not be needed in soil of a heavier nature, and con¬ 
sequently containing less sand or other lightening 
matter. Crushed oyster shells are considered by some 
beneficial to a light sandy soil, containing as they do 
carbonate of lime, this assisting in the maturation of 
the wood. Ground bones are beneficial to the plants 
when used with the soil in potting, especially in light 
soils, but in the case of soil of a close retentive nature 
they should not be used so freely, as they have a 
tendency to clog the soil and create pale sickly-looking 
foliage, which is not the kind desired. This is 
especially notieeable in wet seasons. Soil which is of 
a heavy nature, in which the fibrous parts quickly 
decay, does not require so much manure mixed with 
it ; first, because it is not needed in the early stages, 
and, later, is apt to bind the parts more closely 
together. Soil of this nature is much worse to deal 
with than that lighter in character, as stimulants 
cannot be given nearly so freely as where the soil is 
more porous. Soil that is liable to “run together’’ 
when the fibre decays should have more lightening 
materials added, such as charcoal, wood ashes, and old 
mortar ; the two former are especially good for this 
purpose. 
Natural Manures. 
Natural manures are no doubt of great service when 
used in a proper manner. The best for mixing with 
soil of ^any kind is horse-droppings, as they contain 
ammonia. They should be prepared as if for a Mush¬ 
room bed ; in this manner the manure is sweetened 
while much of the ammonia is retained. At the final 
potting, horse-manure should be used in the proportion 
of two parts to four of light soil, and one part to three 
of heavy loam. Cow-manure is not good for mixing 
with the soil on account of its pasty nature when fresh, 
and when decayed its good qualities have departed. 
Some use it fresh mixed with soil for top-dressing the 
plants, but where the loam is stiff I think cow-manure 
too heavy also, and liable to keep the soil cold. Soot 
is a valuable manure in the growth of Chrysanthemums, 
either for mixing with the soil or for using in a liquid 
state. When used with the soil in potting it should 
be done in a cautious manner, as too much is liable to 
injure the roots. A 6-in. potful to four bushels of soil 
is a safe quantity to mix with any kind of soil. 
Artificial Manures. 
Artificial manures are now largely used by Chrysan¬ 
themum growers, owing to the easy manner in which 
they can be applied ; the convenient way in which they 
can be obtained by those persons who have not the 
opportunities to obtain animal manures ; and lastly, 
for the reason that they are so efficacious. Thomson’s 
Vine and Plant Manure is one deserving of notice, 
possessing qualities well suited to the growth of these 
plants. In potting, to a peck of soil we add one 
4i-in. potful of manure ; for top-dressing the plants 
during August this manure is excellent, encouraging 
free root-action on the surface of the soil. For stimulat¬ 
ing during the summer, especially in wet weather when 
it is not possible to give liquid manure, this manure is 
good—one teaspoonful to a 10-in. pot, say once a fort¬ 
night. Mr. McKenzie, Linton Park, and Mr. Doughty 
speak very highly of it. Beeson’s is another of the 
artificial manures largely employed in the growth of 
Chrysanthemums ; it creates good firm growth without 
being too gross, preserving a]healthy tone to the foliage. 
Surface roots are freely'madejwhen the plants are top- 
dressed with it in the proportion of a 5J-in. potful to 
one peck of soil. For mixing withjthe soil at potting 
we use 2 lbs. of manure to one bushel of soil. In the 
north of England this manure is largely used and 
highly spoken of by Mr. T. B. Morton, Darlington, 
who is a successful grower. Standen’s Manure is highly 
valued ; some of the best blooms we have had were 
grown by the aid of this manure, used at the rate of 
1 lb. to one bushel of soil, also used afterwards at the rate 
of one teaspoonful to a 9-in. pot once in ten days. Mr. 
Mease, who has cause to be satisfied with his successes, 
speaks highly of Standen’s. Ichthemic Guano is much 
favoured by many growers, and with good cause, as 
their productions testify. "Where this manure is used 
the plants retain a healthy colour without the growth 
being too gross, a sure sign the manure agrees with 
them. For potting, to five bushels of soil add ^-peck 
of guano ; for use in a liquid state give a 5^-in. potful 
to 36 gallons of water. Jensen’s Guano is very highly 
approved by some growers, used at the rate of a 10-in. 
potful to 15 bushels of soil, also applying the guano in 
a liquid state once a week at thehate of one teaspoonful 
to a gallon of water. Clay’s Fertiliser is another 
manure used with good results, as Mr. J. Doughty can 
testify by the blooms staged by him at the recent show 
in the Aquarium, which were some of the best seen 
during the season ; he sprinkles it on the surface 
occasionally, to be watered in, commencing in August. 
Manures Requiring Extra Care. 
There are other kinds of manure which need further 
trial for completing experiments before I can speak 
with accuracy as to their merits. Nitrate of soda is the 
quickest in action of any manure that I have tried. It 
is useful to give once or twice in a season should the 
plants not appear to be making free growth after their 
final potting; in that manner nitrate of soda excites 
and prepares the plants for other food, which will tend 
to solidify the growth thus made. Should the season 
promise to be a wet one, nitrate of soda must not be 
used, as there would be a greater difficulty in ripening 
the growth. Half a teaspoonful to a 10-in. pot, 
crushing the soda finely, spreading it on the surface, 
and watering it in once or twice at the most, according 
to the season, will be beneficial, but on no account 
must it be used if the plants are not well supplied with 
active roots. Sulphate of ammonia, in careful hands, 
is an excellent manure—perhaps unequalled as a 
stimulant, but it must not be used unwisely. My 
experience of it is that it imparts colour to the leaves 
of the plants and richness to the blooms, which is not 
excelled by any other manure. The cultivator should 
be guided by the state of the weather at the time of 
application, and also by the state of the roots of the 
plants; indeed, this is the all-important point to 
consider. 
Sulphate of ammonia should not be given to the 
plants until they are well furnished with roots. Used 
in safe quantities in a liquid form is the correct way to 
apply it. Some growers say that sulphate of ammonia 
tends to make the blooms damp, and I think they are 
right when it is used injudiciously ; for instance, too 
strong doses often kill the roots, not only on the 
surface, but half way down the soil in the pots; 
especially is this the case when the sulphate is put on 
the soil in a dry state and watered in. From experi¬ 
ments made during the past season I am able to say 
that plants of all the sections in our collection were 
supplied with water which contained sulphate of 
ammonia every time the plants required water, from 
the time the buds were swelling freely until the blooms 
were developed, with the result that there was less 
damping of the blooms, including those of Empress of 
India, a notoriously bad “damper,” than upon other 
plants treated differently. Of course, the plants were 
in good condition for receiving so much sulphate of 
ammonia; the pots and surface were full of roots, while 
the growth was not sappy. This was an experiment 
purely to test the effect of this stimulant on the damp¬ 
ing of the blooms, but I cannot say that the blooms were 
of the best quality, the flowers in the incurved section 
showing a tendency to coarseness and hollowness in the 
centre. The best way to apply sulphate of ammonia is 
by dissolving £ oz. in 1 gallon of weak liquid manure 
from the farmyard tank, commencing as soon as the 
flower buds are swelling freely, increasing the strength 
gradually until J oz. is reached to each gallon of water: 
to be given once a week. Dissolved bones are perhaps 
better in some soils than ground bones, as they act 
quicker. Especially are they preferable for heavy soils. 
Mixed with turfy loam, two parts to one of the bone- 
meal, applied as a top-dressing early in August, the 
roots quickly find their way into it, while the continued 
waterings wash the virtues down among the roots. 
Natural Liquid Manures. 
Animal manures used for making liquid food for the 
plants are much appreciated when they can be obtained. 
Sheep manure forms a capital liquid by placing it fresh 
from the fields into a bag to prevent it from dissolv¬ 
ing and mixing with the water, which would render 
it too thick. By placing the bag in a tub or tank of 
water, allowing it to soak for twelve hours, the liquid 
will be ready for use. Cow manure used in the same 
way is good. Drainings from manure heaps are also 
good. They should all be applied weak and often 
rather than strong and seldom, in the latter form the 
roots being more liable to be injured than in the other 
method of application. 
How and "When to Use Stimulants. 
Having named the manures which have come under 
my notice, I will now state the time when I think 
they ought to be commenced and how applied. It is 
not intended that one person should use all those 
named. Experience only will teach accurately those 
best suited to each locality. Some people consider the 
plants ought to be supplied with stimulants when they 
are in small pots previously to being finally potted, 
