February 2, 1889. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
361 
pans of Ccelogyne cristata maxima, with eight flowers 
to the spike ; a splendid plant of Dendrobium 
splendidissimum grandiflorum, D. Endocharis, well 
bloomed ; D. Wardianum, D. crassinode, D. monili- 
forme, a few good forms of Odontoglossum crispum, 0. 
Rossii majus, Sophronitis grandiftora, and various 
Masdevallias.— TV. P. 
Odontoglossum vexillarium Leopoldii. 
Tms'perfectly unique variety was on view at Stevens’ 
Rooms on the 24th ult., and although there was only 
one bloom on the small plant, there was enough to 
show its remarkably distinct character from all other 
varieties of 0. vexillarium. The body colour of the 
flower is a rich deep rose, and for its specially distinctive 
feature, has a triangular-shaped blotch of deep crimson, 
with its base line immediately under the column, and a 
small oval blotch of the same colour about J in. from 
the apex of the triangle, to which it appeals to form a 
pendant. It is one of the many good things which Mr. 
Sander manages to secure, and when put up for sale the 
biddings ran up to 60 guineas, at which figure it was 
bought in, the reserve not being reached. 
A Chance Cypripedium. 
I have by same post sent a Cypripedium bloom, the 
history of which is as follows :—About four years ago a 
sport appeared upon a plant of Cypripedium barbatum 
nigrum, having the foliage beautifully marbled with 
cream-colour, and being quite distinct from the rest of 
the plant. When well established it was taken off and 
potted, and this year it has bloomed. The plant is 
still a very small one, with a couple of breaks, as the 
leaves are not 2 ins. long ; but the slow growth may be 
accounted for by the lowness of the temperature in 
which it has been grown—an average of 50°. I have 
carefully examined the original plant of C. barbatum 
nigrum, and I find on it another similar sport, with 
identical foliage. It is, however, very small at present, 
as I never noticed it until I looked the plant all over 
yesterday. I have taken off a small leaf, which I 
enclose. The larger ones are much more distinctly 
marked.— George JVeir Cosens, Bronpadarv,, Llan- 
badarn-Faivr, Aberystwith. [The flower and leaf 
received do not appear to have any connection with 
C. barbatum at all; but as far as we can tell from the 
materials before us, we should suspect it to be a badly- 
coloured form of C, Hookerire Bullenianum. As the 
plant gains in strength, it will, no doubt, improve.— 
Ed.] 
Calanthe Sandhurstiana. 
It will interest Orchid growers who have the mis¬ 
fortune to live in localities more or less visited by fogs 
in winter, to know that in Mr. B. S. Williams’ 
nursery this pretty hybrid keeps its colour better 
under such conditions than any other variety, and has 
this season been the darkest coloured of all. It is a 
rich deep shade of rose, almost a self-coloured flower, 
and contrasts well with C. Yeitchii, which has a pale 
lip. At the present time, C. Williamsii, with its richly- 
coloured lip, is also maintaining its good character in 
the same nursery. 
The Orchid Growers' Calendar. 
As Lselia anceps, L. autumnalis, and their allied kinds 
go out of flower, they should be rested or kept quiet for 
a time until growth commences to push again. This 
may be done by placing them in a cool airy position, 
and withholding water, but not to such an extent as to 
cause the pseudo-bulbs to shrivel. All that is meant is 
simply to avoid extremes, so as not to destroy the 
roots by too much moisture, nor to subject them to 
that baking process which is equally harmful, to ever¬ 
green subjects especially. 
Such plants as require it should be re-potted or 
basketed, as the case may be, when they commence to 
push young growth. Amongst those that may be seen 
to as they pass out of flower are the Cypripediums, 
the pots or pans of which are too cramped, for want of 
space, to develop their offshoots ; on the other hand, 
over-potting should be avoided. A good compost will 
consist of equal parts of fibre taken from partly-decayed 
and mellow old pasture turf, fibrous peat, and 
sphagnum. The Cypripediums are rather gross feeders, 
and require liberal treatment. Accordingly, we find 
some growers using crushed bones in the bottom of the 
pot, while others use a small quantity of well-decayed 
cow-dung in the compost. 
Ventilation and thorough cleanliness are most essen¬ 
tial at this season of the year. On mild and warm 
days, such as we have been favoured with recently, a 
good plan is to open all the doors, so that there may be 
a free circulation of air from end to end of the houses, 
even if it should only be for half an hour. Keep a 
sharp look-out for aphides, which seem to multiply 
more at this season than any other, quickly crippling 
or injuring the flowers as they expand, as well as dis¬ 
figuring them by their secretions. White flowers show 
the effect of them sooner than dark-coloured ones. 
Those kinds but slightly affected may be cleaned by 
the use of a small brush, with which to remove insects 
from the centres of the flowers. Others may be 
shifted to a house by themselves, where they can be 
gently fumigated with tobacco-paper on two successive 
nights. Or, if need be, the whole house may be 
subjected to fumigation, removing choice kinds 
temporarily into an adjoining compartment. Fogs 
have been unusually severe during the winter that is 
now rapidly passing away, and we may reasonably 
expect fewer and less dense visitations of that kind 
after this date. It will therefore be of great importance 
to have the glass thoroughly washed outside, so as to 
remove the sooty deposit which now blackens the glass 
and greatly hinders the ingress of light, so important 
at this season of the year. Every ray of light should 
now be economised, not only to enable the last year’s 
growth and foliage to pull through without further 
weakening, but also to encourage a vigorous develop¬ 
ment of young growths now commencing to push. 
The Temperatures for February. —The warm or 
East Indian house should stand at 60° by night with 
a rise to 65° to 70° by day ; the Cattleya or inter¬ 
mediate house, 55° at night, with a rise to 60° to 65° 
by day ; the cool Odontoglossum house should range 
from 45° at night to 50° or 55° by day. 
-- 
The Gardeners’ Calendar, 
THE PLANT HOUSES. 
Stove and Greenhouse Ferns. —An annual over¬ 
hauling of these subjects is of immense advantage to 
the plants, regulating not only the drainage, but 
putting fresh vigour into specimens the size of which it 
is desired to increase by re-potting them in fresh soil. 
This annual overhauling also affords an opportunity of 
breaking up specimens that have grown too large for 
the requirements of the place, such as the Adiantums, 
and especially those that have been much cut up for 
decorative purposes. Give abundant drainage in view 
of the heavy watering they require while making their 
growth, and particularly during the summer months. 
Davallias may be increased by dividing their rhizomes, 
being careful to have a growing point on each piece, and, 
if possible, a few roots to each. Should the old plants 
be put in a larger pot, the rhizomes must be pegged 
down on the soil, so that new roots may be thrown out 
to assist them as they elongate. Many of the 
Aspleniums, Pteris, and other subjects may be increased 
rapidly by means of spores ; but in private establish¬ 
ments a sufficient number of those kinds that bear young 
plantlets on their fronds can be obtained by taking a 
few of the proliferous fronds and pegging them down 
on coco-nut fibre in a propagating pit, where the heat 
and moisture will cause the buds to develop rapidly, 
producing serviceable little plants in a short time after 
being potted up. 
Salvias. —As the various species go out of flower 
they may be cut down and placed in heat to furnish 
young wood for cuttings for next year’s supply of 
plants. Comparatively little water will be required by 
plants after being cut down till the youDg shoots 
commence to push vigorously. If it is desired to in¬ 
crease the stock of Salvia patens, the tuberous roots 
may be transferred to a propagating pit or other warm 
house where forcing is being carried on. The white 
variety, S. p. alba, is yet comparatively scarce, and 
may be increased by introducing it to heat in order to 
obtain cuttings. They will be fit for bedding out with 
other subjects at the proper season. 
THE FORCING HOUSES. 
Vineries.— The pot Vines in the earliest house will 
now be sufficiently advanced to require thinning. For 
this crop the thinning need not be severe, as very 
large berries are never looked for from the early pot 
Vines. Compact bunches, although only of moderate 
size, are preferable to large and loose ones. Later 
houses must be attended to when the Vines come into 
flower. The temperature may be allowed to run up a 
few degrees higher during the day, and the evaporating 
pans may be allowed to go dry, so as to favour the 
dispersion of the pollen. Tapping the rods during the 
early part of the day when the temperature rises will 
also favour the operation of setting the fruit con¬ 
siderably. As soon as this has been effected, re-fill the 
evaporating pans, using a quantity of liquid manure 
or guano in the water to supply ammonia in the 
atmosphere. It has also a beneficial effect in keeping 
down red-spider. 
Strawberries. —Considerable difficulty will be ex¬ 
perienced at present in keeping Strawberry and other 
forced plants in a healthy progressive condition, owing 
to the almost chronic occurrence or rather prevalence 
of poor light at this important season of the year. 
In ventilating the house, care should be taken that 
cold air does not come in direct contact with the 
expanded flowers and young fruit. Except when the 
weather is mild, air should be given at the top only, 
and if the plants are near the ventilators, a piece of 
tiffany should be placed over the opening, so as to 
moderate the current of cold air. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The Forcing Department. —Early Potatos, if grown 
in pots, must be placed in a favourable position with 
regard to the light, otherwise a good development of 
tubers cannot be expected. The structure in which 
they are grown should also be ventilated on all favour¬ 
able occasions, and the soil kept in a moderately moist 
condition. Introduce fresh batches of Rhubarb, Sea 
Kale and Asparagus as those in beds show signs of 
soon becoming exhausted. Force and blanch Chicory 
and Dandelions in the same way. Early sowings of 
Radishes and Early Horn Carrots may be made in 
frames occupied with early Potatos, and forced by 
means of fermenting dung and leaves. 
-- 
HORTICULTURAL SOCIETIES. 
Manchester Horticultural Improvement. 
At the usual monthly meeting of this society, held 
on January 24th, Mr. Bruce Findlay presiding, the 
paper of the evening was upon “Floral Decorative 
Work,” and was read by Mr. W. Elkin, who said the 
subject was a most interesting one, and he was not 
unmindful of the fact that there were some present 
who had attained considerable success at the Manchester 
exhibitions and elsewhere with their tasteful groups 
arranged for effect. The offering of prizes for these 
groups had, in his opinion, done much to give valuable 
instruction to the rising generation of gardeners. If a 
man cultivated good flowers and plants he ought to 
know how to arrange them to the best advantage ; and 
if he had good taste in their disposal, he would always 
possess a decided advantage over the man who knew 
nothing about it. The subject of decorative work was 
coming more and more to the front, and young gar¬ 
deners, by giving serious attention to it, would be 
adapting themselves to the times. The main point in 
arranging groups of flowers and plants for effect was to 
have an undulating surface, a good feathery ground¬ 
work of Maidenhair Fern, and prominent plants. 
Palms and Crotons were almost invaluable for house 
decoration. People who had a profusion of plants and 
flowers were almost certain to overdo their decorative 
work. In the decoration of halls and rooms this should 
be particularly remembered. Here the gardener was 
not called upon to add to already existing grandeur, 
but to relieve, enliven, or tone down with suitable 
foliage and flowers. It was the taste, culture, and the 
skilful blending of colours that gave pleasure, and not 
the prodigal use—he might even say abuse—of what 
otherwise ought to be beautiful. 
The most fashionable and fascinating part of the art 
at the present time was dinner-table decoration. The 
present arrangement of the table—so unlike that of 
twenty-five years ago—gave more scope for the work. 
The object desired was to make the dinner-table more 
social. The tables themselves were much narrower 
than formerly, and the decorations were kept much 
lower, the principal point to avoid being any suspicion 
of excess. If plants were used for this purpose, they 
should be light-leaved, feathery, and graceful, such as 
a person could see through. If they were at all densely 
foliaged, they formed a most objectionable barricade 
down the centre of the table, which prevented people 
sitting at dinner either seeing or being able to converse 
with their friends opposite. Plants, however, were 
almost gone out of fashion for this branch of decorative 
art, flowers being better appreciated. In the making 
up of brides’ bouquets, as in all other floral arrange¬ 
ments, there had been a marked improvement during 
the last quarter of a century, the style now being alto¬ 
gether more graceful and natural than in former years. 
A discussion followed, in which Messrs. E. G. 
Hughes, Adams, W. Plant, W. B. Upjohn, Rogers, 
J. Edwards, and H. Driver took part. 
