418 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
March 2, 1889. 
more shoots are trained up to take the place of the one 
that is allowed to flower. This shoot may afterwards he 
cut clean away, for it will only be a cumbersome stalk 
drawing the necessaries of life aw 7 ay from the others 
that are to replace it. 
This brings me to the point—how to deal with the 
young plants of the climbing sorts that have been 
established on their own roots. The majority of the 
plants that were rooted in the month of May, will for 
the most part have been wintered in about 5-in. pots, 
and will now at the present time be at work quietly 
pushing their eyes into active growth. To get a good 
long shoot or two on these plants, it will be necessary 
to cut them back to about two eyes from the bottom, 
or else rub the top eyes out as they show signs of 
quickening ; this will give the whole vigour to the 
one or two shoots it is intended to grow. 
These will, under favourable circumstances, make 
growths 2 yards or 3 yards 'in length ; and if 
potted firmly into some good rich compost, and 
occasionally fed with liquid manure, the shoots 
will be proportionately strong. These, with full 
exposure to sun and air, will form the foundation 
of excellent plants, that may be depended upon to 
travel along without any fear of canker, and with the 
knowledge that all suckers that may spring up from 
the bottom are the genuine article. 
Sorts that are not climbers, but bush kinds, will 
require no knife-work about them for another season 
at least ; but should have all the encouragement that 
can be given to them, to make the plants as large as 
possible, always remembering that the larger the bush 
the more buds to be obtained from it. 
The China Roses, the Bourbon, the Fairy, and even 
the Hybrid Perpetuals may be multiplied and grown 
on by this mode of treatment, but to go largely into the 
propagation of these classes must entirely depend upon 
the room and means at command. In the case of 
limited means it is better to grow a few, and grow them 
well, than to fill up with a lot of weak plants, bearing 
in mind that if Roses are worth growing they are worth 
growing well, or not at all. Mildew is often very 
troublesome during the early spring months, but on 
this I will treat in the next chapter, as also on the 
planting out of Tea Roses under glass versus growing 
in pots, and the advantages of the two systems. — W. G. 
-- 
FORMS OF LEAVES. 
( Continued from p. 406 .) 
Leaves Adapted to their Surroundings. 
In some parts of New Zealand, where it constitutes a 
peculiar feature of the Alpine vegetation, Aciphylla 
squarrosa forms perfectly impenetrable thickets, 6 ft. 
to 9 ft. high. It is closely allied to some of our native 
Umbellifers, but is modified to protect itself, and also 
to withstand a dry and arid climate, so that the con¬ 
ditions affecting its life history have brought about 
such a transformation of the leaves as to make its 
relationship unrecognisable by the foliage alone. A 
considerable number of the seedling leaves are perfectly 
simple, and linear or sword-like, with a sharp point, 
and as the plant gradually gains in strength, the foliage 
becomes more and more divided until the leaves are 
bipinnate; and what is more extraordinary, the 
divisions do not take place vertically, but the adult 
leaf is sliced up as it were into several horizontal as 
well as vertical layers. The whole may be folded 
together much in the same way as a fan ; but when in 
their natural position the numerous spiny-pointed 
segments or leaflets spread in all directions like so 
many fixed bayonets. The settlers of New Zealand 
call the plant the Wild Spaniard. 
The huge floating leaves of Victoria Regia excellently 
illustrate adaptation to conditions and surroundings, 
as exhibited by many water plants belonging to 
different families besides those of the Water Lily 
family proper. The difference in size and form between 
the primary true leaf and the adult, shows one of the 
most remarkable transitions to be found in the whole 
vegetable kingdom. The first leaf is slender and 
grass-like, while the second is strap-shaped, and the 
third halbert-shaped, and all three are adapted to a 
submerged condition. The fourth is peltate, and 
invariably comes to the surface of the water, at least, 
if the latter does not exceed 2 ft. in depth. At each 
successive stage the leaf becomes more and more 
orbicular and larger, until with stove treatment in 
this country they are as round as a table, with turned 
up edges, and close upon 7 ft. in diameter, and over 
20 ft. in circumference. One of these leaves grown in 
a hothouse, lasted in good condition from the 9 th 
July to the 9th September, a period of nine weeks, but 
would probably have lasted much longer under less 
artificial conditions. It attained a diameter of 6 ft. in 
nine days, and the greatest growth in twenty-four 
hours, namely 1 ft. 83 ins., took place on the third 
day after it commenced to unfold. After the first 
seven days, growth becomes comparatively slow. The 
area of a leaf is considerable, and so constructed as to 
be capable of supporting a considerable weight without 
sinking. The principal nerves are numerous, and 
radiate from the centre, where they are from 2 ins. to 
3 ins. in depth, to the circumference, where they are 
comparatively slender, and on the whole show great 
excellency of design. 
The Lattice-leaf plant (Ouvirandra fenestralis) shows 
an adaptation of a different kind. The whole leaf is 
reduced to a skeleton or framework, consisting of the 
venation or vascular network, giving it its characteristic 
latticed appearance. This form of leaf, and its 
membraneous texture, is well fitted to collect its 
carbonaceous food from the surrounding medium, the 
water in which it is submerged. Numerous other 
submerged aquatics, such as our Water Crowfoots, are 
reduced to their vascular framework, but appear less 
remarkable because the segments are not connected by 
transverse pieces. The primary leaves of the seedling 
Lattice Leaf are not perforated, and ' later ones 
gradually become so. 
Dimorphism. 
There are some families in which dimorphism is par¬ 
ticularly prevalent, but as a rule it is more obvious in 
groups or genera confined to particular parts of the 
world, where the conditions are the cause of it. Two 
forms of leaves are frequent in the White Mulberry 
(Morus alba), while some of its varieties produce the 
characteristic heart-shaped leaf only, and others are 
almost confined to the lobed form. This character is 
of frequent occurrence in the order, and seems here¬ 
ditary but difficult of explanation. Nor is the lobing 
confined in all cases to the large leaves on robust 
branches, as we have evidence in the huge undivided 
leaves of the Constantinople variety. The curiously 
lobed leaves of the Paper Mulberry (Broussonetia 
papyrifera) are sometimes mixed with undivided ones 
on the same plant. It belongs to the same family as 
the black and white Mulberries, and many other 
members exhibit the same character. 
There is a variety of the common Ash (Fraxinus 
excelsior heterophylla), the leaves of which retain the 
juvenile form, even in the adult state. If we examine 
a seedling Ash we find the leaves are simple, ovate and 
serrated ; but as it grows to be a tree the leaves become 
large and cut up into leaflets. In the variety under notice 
even when fully grown the leaves are like those of the 
seedling, except in a few exceptional instances where 
they are cut up into three or five leaflets. This may 
be described as a reversion to the ancestral condition of 
the Ash, when the leaves were still simple, like those 
of its near relation, the Olive. An American species of 
Ash (F. rufa) is normally very variable, with simple, 
variously cut or compound leaves. 
Many species of Acacia, of which A. melanoxylon is a 
familiar and good example, persistently bear two or 
more very distinct forms of leaves on the same plant. 
In the seedling stage, and in the lower part of the plant, 
large bipinnate leaves are very prevalent ; but on the 
upper reaches of the tree, while this form may 
occasionally be found, the greater numbers are reduced 
to the leaf-stalks, which are laterally flattened, and 
perform the functions of true leaves. They present 
their edges to the sun in order to escape too great 
illumination, and the scorching or desiccating effect 
of long periods of drought and a cloudless sky. This 
is the explanation of the reduction of the leaves to 
laterally flattened stalks. — J. F. 
-- 
THE FERNERY 
On the Planting of a Rockert. 
Planting may be commenced immediately on the com¬ 
pletion of the building of rockwork, whatever the 
nature of the materials used. Before commencing, a 
quantity of suitable soil, according to the amount likely 
to be required, should be got ready, and the various 
pockets intended for the reception of the plants filled or 
partly so. The quantity required in each pocket will, 
of course, depend upon the size of the Ferns to be 
planted, and the bulk of their roots. The soil used 
out of doors is a matter of less importance than when 
grown in pots. It may therefore consist of old potting 
soil from the potting-shed or elsewhere, roughly sifted 
to take out large stones, crocks, roots of plants, and 
such-like. Mix with it a large quantity of partly- 
decayed leaf-soil, peat, and a quantity of sand. When 
the whole is well incorporated together, wheel it to the 
rockery, and distribute where wanted. 
Specially suitable positions must be selected for each 
kind. The great majority of them like shade in some 
form or other, while a few rejoice in the full sun, such 
as Asplenium Ceterach, A. Ruta-muraria, and some of 
their allies. A few of the commoner and strong- 
growing kinds, like Lastrea Filix-mas, L. spinulosa 
dilatata, and even the Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis), 
will grow fully exposed to the sun, provided other con¬ 
ditions are equal. If there is a small pond in the 
Fern garden, or a stream of water running through it, 
it will furnish suitable conditions for a great many 
subjects that could not otherwise be grown to any 
degree of perfection. On the banks of such a stream 
plant Osmunda regalis, the Lady Fern in endless 
variety, the Male Fern, the Marsh Fern (Lastrea 
Thelypteris), and the Ostrich Fern (Onocleagermanica). 
Such moist positions are not absolutely necessary for 
the Male and Lady Ferns ; but those who have seen 
them in such positions cannot deny the magnificent 
and striking dimensions they attain, while their 
feathery or plume-like appearance is in no way 
diminished, but rather enhanced. 
If a command of water cannot be had, then specially 
built places should be constructed for such as the Royal 
Fern, without which it loses more than half its 
grandeur in the dry climate of the south. A hole 
should be dug out to the depth of 3J ft., and have its 
sides built round with a wall of bricks or stone. The 
bottom should then be puddled with a fair depth of clay, 
together with the crevices between the stones in the 
lower part of the wall. This will serve as a receptacle 
for the retention of water, which should be copiously 
supplied during the growing season. Fill up the basin 
with roughly-chopped peat and turfy loam, and plant 
the largest rootstocks or crowns that can be obtained, 
using some of the finer compost about the roots. 
The higher portions of the rockery may be planted with 
Aspidium (Polystichum) aculeatum, A. angulare in an 
endless variety of distinct and crested forms, LastTea 
cristata, L. Filix-mas and its beautiful crested varieties, 
Lastrea Goldieana, Aspidium munitum, Osmunda 
cinnamomea, 0. interrupta, and Onoclea sensibilis. 
The last five are not British, but they are perfectly 
hardy and very beautiful. Lower down and nearer the 
footpaths, if there are any, dwarfer subjects in great 
variety should find a place, such as Polypodium vulgare 
and its varieties, P. v. cambricum (Welsh Polypody), 
P. v. semilacerum, P. v. elegantissima, and others, all 
of which are very beautiful. The tops and sides of low 
walls may be planted with the typical form of the 
common Polypody, provided the situation is sufficiently 
shaded so as to retain the moisture. The lower parts 
will also be suitable for Lastrea rigida, Lastrea foeniscii, 
the hay-scented Fern, Scolopendrium vulgare in endless 
variety of beautifully crested and curious forms, Lomaria 
spicant, L. alpina, Asplenium Adiantum-nigrum, and 
the Mountain Parsley (Cryptogamma crispa). A 
moist shady position should be secured for the Oak 
Fern (Polypodium Dryopteris), and the Beech Fern 
(P. Phegopteris). A moist bank where the soil is loose 
and open, so that their rhizomes may ramble at will, 
■will prove highly suitable. 
-->X<-- 
PROFITABLE TOMATO CUL¬ 
TURE.* 
The chief points in the cultivation of the Tomato are 
to maintain a moderately dry atmosphere about them, 
and not to over-feed in the early stages ; this, with due 
attention to stopping, &c., will generally lead to success. 
A stock can be easily obtained, either from seed, which 
speedily germinates, or from cuttings, which strike 
quickly when put in a light sandy soil and kept in a 
warm place. Some growers prefer cuttings, under the 
impression that plants raised from them come into 
bearing more quickly than seedlings. This may be so, 
but where large numbers are required, it will be better 
to raise them from seeds, as it takes less time. 
To Obtain Fruit in Mat ok June. 
The seed should be sown early in January, either in 
pots or pans, using a light, sandy soil. Fill the pots 
nearly full of fine soil, then distribute the seed thinly, 
and cover lightly. Put the pots in a warm pit or 
frame, and in a few days the seedlings will make their 
appearance. They should then be placed near the glass 
to prevent being drawn. When the first rough leaf 
appears they should be carefully potted off, and be put 
singly into 3-in. pots, or if it is desired to economise 
* By Mr. S. Summers, R.H.S., Chiswick. Read at meeting of 
Chiswick Gardeners’ Mutual Improvement Association, Feb. 8th. 
