486 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
March 30, 1889. 
are much larger, more leathery, and evergreen. The 
plant is valuable for cool conservatory work, where it 
comes into bloom in early spring, and lasts a long time 
in perfection. It is a pity that such beautiful hard- 
wooded plants are not more generally cultivated 
throughout the country ; they constitute such a con¬ 
trast to the commoner and widely cultivated soft- 
wooded subjects. 
New Cyclamens. 
Faust.— The leaves of this curious variety are of a deep 
bronzy green, with bronzy red petioles. The flowers 
are also peculiarly dark, and for the want of a better 
term may be described as of a deep velvety crimson 
or maroon ; they are also short, with broad segments. 
Striatum. —In this we have a new strain, which, if 
it can be perpetuated, will be a valuable acquisition. 
The flowers are deep reddish purple, with a broad white 
band slightly suffused with rose down the centre of 
each segment, and are certainly pretty. Both were 
exhibited recently at the Royal Botanic Society’s 
spring show, and received Floricultural Certificates. The 
former was shown by Mr. J. James, Farnham Royal, 
Slough, and the latter by Mr. John Odell, Gould’s Green. 
Empress of India. —The foliage of this variety is 
slightly marbled with grey, and the flower-stalks are of 
a deep red. The blooms are of a rich maroon-crimson, 
with rather elongated segments. It was exhibited at 
the Crystal Palace, on Saturday last, by Mr. J. Odell, 
Goulds Green, Hillingdon, and received a First Class 
Certificate. He also showed Striatum, noted above, 
which was certificated ; and Cyclamen Faust, exhibited 
by Mr. J. James, was also certificated at the same time. 
Crocus vernus leucorhynchus. 
Tiie lower part of the limb of this variety is pale 
lavender, while there is a large deep blue blotch just 
below the apex, which is pure white. The flower has 
a pretty and distinct appearance even when closed in 
the absence of sunshine, and a mass of them is very 
effective. Being a variety of C. vernus, it is notable 
for the shortness of the scarlet stigmas. It was shown by 
Messrs. Barr & Son, Covent Garden, at the Royal 
Botanic Society’s spring show, and was awarded a 
Floricultural Certificate. 
Colchicum arenarium. 
Most of the species of Colchicum flower in autumn, at 
a period when their fragile blooms are liable to be 
destroyed by heavy rains. A few of them flower in 
winter or early in spring, according to the nature of the 
weather. C. arenarium has been blooming for some 
time past in the nursery of Messrs. Barr & Son, Lower 
Tooting. The flowers are pure white, and about twice 
the size of C. erociflorum and C. luteum, also flowering 
alongside of it. 
Adiantum Capillus-Veneris grande. 
A number of small plants of this Fern was exhibited by 
Mr. T. Jannoch, Lily Nursery, Dersingham, Norfolk, 
at the recent Royal Botanic Society’s spring show. 
The fronds are very compact, with overlapping 
pinnae and pinnules. The latter are broadly wedge or 
fan-shaped, crisped, and noticeable for the dark or 
black colour of the principal veins traversing them at 
their base. It would appear from the firmness of the 
fronds to have been grown under cool treatment. A 
Botanical Certificate was awarded to it. 
New Amaryllis. 
The undermentioned kinds were exhibited at the Royal 
Botanic Society’s spring show, and received Flori¬ 
cultural Certificates. Lustrous.— From one bulb of 
this variety arose two scapes, each about 15 ins. high, 
and carrying in the aggregate eight flowers of 
medium size, but of great regularity and handsome. 
They were of a dark crimson-scarlet. Mirabella.— 
The flowers of this new kind are altogether lighter in 
tone, and thinly striated with scarlet on a white ground. 
Optima. —Being one of the largest types yet obtained, 
tills is decidedly the best of the three. It measured 
9 ins. across the segments, which are of a rich crimson- 
scarlet, with a six-rayed greenish star at the base of the 
flower. The whole bloom is so spread out that there is 
scarcely any tube. All three were shown by Messrs. 
J. Veitch & Sons, Chelsea. Dark Beauty.—Two 
moderate-sized bell-shaped flowers were borne on a 
scape by this fine form. They were of an intense 
crimson, with a six-rayed greenish star on the lower 
half. The plant was exhibited by Messrs. Paul & 
Son, Cheshunt. 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
--j*- 
Wallflowers in Pots. 
It is a great advantage to be able to cut "W allflowers 
in bloom at various periods during winter, as has been 
the case in various parts of the kingdom during the 
past autumn and winter. Owing to the comparative 
mildness of the weather at different times, the flowers 
have expanded with a wonderfully fresh appearance ; 
but supposing that a quantity of the best shaped plants 
had been lifted and transferred to a greenhouse or cold 
frame, where they could have been protected from 
rough weather, the flowers would have opened with 
almost the same freshness as in April. Then, instead 
of cutting the flowers and transferring them to glasses 
filled with water, the plants themselves could be taken 
to the windows of dwelling-rooms, where the fragrance 
of the flowers could not fail to be appreciated. Then, 
again, the flowers would never present that crowded 
and unnatural appearance that is but too frequently 
the case when the flowers are cut and placed in vessels 
filled with water. The double dwarf German and some 
of the dwarf single yellow kinds, such as Belvoir Castle 
Yellow and Bedfont Yellow, are dwarf, very compact, 
and in every way suitable for pot-work when they have 
been grow properly. For dwarf plants 48-sized pots 
are the best. 
Cyclamens. 
The Persian Cyclamen, or its numerous improved garden 
forms, are now plentiful everywhere, so that amateurs, 
even if they cannot raise them, may be able to obtain 
specimens for their greenhouses or windows of the 
dwelling-house. The season may be greatly prolonged 
if watering is well attended to. Give weak liquid 
manure occasionally, to assist in the development of 
flowers which at present can only be seen as buds. 
Cyclamens are very prolific and keep up a succession 
for many weeks together, according to the treatment 
they receive. Unless seed is required, pull out the 
young seed vessels or the flower stalks as the blooms 
decay. Keep the plants well exposed to light at all 
times, and should the house be moderately warm, and 
in the case of dwelling-rooms not too dry, Cyclamens 
can hardly fail to give satisfaction. 
Phlox Drummondi. 
With the modern improvements that have been 
effected in this hardy annual, a display can be pro¬ 
duced equal to that of Verbenas, which are much more 
difficult to grow and require fire heat to preserve them 
for many months in the year. If sown in pans stood 
in a greenhouse, or what is better, on a hot-bed, and 
afterwards pricked off into boxes 1 in. or so apart, nice, 
healthy plants can be had ready to plant out in May. 
When so treated they come into flower much earlier 
than when sown at once in the open ground. Besides, 
there is this danger, that in nine cases out of ten the 
seeds are sown too thickly, so that by the time they 
come in flower they are too crowded, and last but a 
short time in bloom. Their true value can never be 
seen under such unfavourable conditions, as the plants 
are weak and spindly, producing only single trusses of 
bloom, that can last but a short time. In planting 
out already established plants, about 9 ins. or 10 ins. 
each way should be allowed between them. This will 
permit of a proper exposure to light on all sides, while 
at the same time each plant will be able to obtain a 
proper share of nourishment, all of which will induce 
the plants to branch freely. The extension of the 
plant laterally furnishes side branches that come into 
flower after the primary ones are over, thus keeping up 
a succession of bloom till late in the autumn. A 
naturally rather moist but not shaded position should 
be selected for them. 
-- 
CHRYSANTHEMUM NOTES. 
Treatment of Plants for Exhibition. 
Those intended for exhibition purposes ought to receive 
daily attention from this time onwards. Young plants 
that have been rooted and still remain in the houses 
should be moved into cold frames forthwith, for the 
purpose of being hardened off. It is useless to expect 
good blooms from plants which have been coddled in a 
young state, the object should be to obtain sturdy 
short-jointed growth. Admit air at the back of the 
frames daily, and as soon as it is considered safe to do 
so, remove the lights entirely on sunny days. Shift on 
into larger pots before they become pot-bound, using a 
compost of three parts loam, one of horse-droppings, 
and one of leaf-soil, with a little bone-meal added 
thereto. Avoid over-watering for some time after 
shifting, and fumigate occasionally to keep down green¬ 
fly.— H. J. 
The Gard eners 1 C alendar. 
THE STOVE. 
Medinilla magnifica. —Assist this plant with liquid 
manure while the panicles of flowers are being developed. 
Close attention must be paid to the inroads of insects, 
particularly mealy-bug, which takes up its quarters 
among the bracts and branches of the panicle to the 
ultimate disfigurement of both. In the early stages of 
the inflorescence, a brush dipped in a solution of 
Gishurst Compound may be used to remove the pest. 
Stopping the Shoots of Exhibition Plants.— 
Those intending to exhibit such things as Allamandas, 
Bougainvilleas, and Ixoras, at certain set times during 
the summer, should stop the young shoots about 
twelve weeks before they are required to be in flower. 
By this means the shoots will be so regulated as to 
come all into flower together, so that a greater display 
will be ensured than if allowed to grow unchecked 
throughout. To flower in twelve weeks’ time, Ixoras, 
however, require a high temperature ; but instead 
of that they may be stopped fifteen or sixteen weeks 
previous to the time they are wanted. 
Shading. —The sun is now gaining in power—that 
is, in the absence of heavy clouds and rain. It will 
therefore be necessary to have the blinds on the stove 
in readiness to guard against a sudden outburst of sun¬ 
shine. In order to avoid universal shading, such 
things as Crotons and flowering plants generally should 
be arranged as much as possible at one end of the house, 
or, at all events, on the front staging, so that they 
may enjoy as much sunshine as possible. Fine- 
foliaged things, such as Anthurium crystallinum, 
Alocasias, and others of that class require shading, 
and should be grouped by themselves. 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
Forced Shrubs. —As Deutzias, Forsythias, Prunus, 
Lilacs, Viburnum, and Staphylea colchica go cut of 
flower, they must not be shot under the stages, nor 
stood out in the open air, because so sudden a check to 
the tender growing shoots would destroy the chance of 
a good set of flower buds next autumn. What neces¬ 
sary pruning is required should be given immediately 
after flowering is over, so as to divert the energies of 
the plants to the production of strong vigorous young 
wood. A heated pit or a Peach house at work would 
prove a suitable place for them, where they should be 
kept syringed to induce them to break. Any re-potting 
that may be necessary could be done after the buds 
commence to push away. The Forsythias, Prunus, 
Lilacs, and Viburnum may simply be placed in a cold 
pit or frame till the weather becomes somewhat warmer 
outdoors, when they could be planted out. Laurestine 
will set its flower-buds much better if growth be well 
forwarded in a little heat before they are put out of 
doors. It may be hard pruned back after flowering is 
over, so as to keep it in shape and of convenient size. 
Azaleas. —A warm vinery is the most suitable place 
to transfer these from the show house. Remove all seed 
vessels, and shorten back straggling shoots to maintain 
regularity of shape. Both Indian Azaleas and those of 
the A. mollis type may be treated in the same way. 
Re-pot those requiring it. See that they are thoroughly 
clean before taking them into vineries. Syringe the 
underside of the leaves, especially if they show traces 
of thrip, to which the Indian section is particularly 
liable. A little paraffin in the water will effect a 
certain cure. 
THE FORGING HOUSES. 
Vineries. —The fruit in the earliest house will now 
make rapid progress, and may be encouraged on bright 
days. A night temperature of from 65° to 70° may be 
given according to the state of the external temperature, 
allowing it to rise to 80° early in the day. Close early 
to economise sun-heat, and keep the evaporating pans 
well filled with farm-yard manure water, or a quantity 
of guano may be used iustead or on alternate days. 
Ventilate early in the day, if the weather is at all 
favourable, so as to avoid scalding. In later houses 
where the bunches are just coming into flower, tap the 
rods gently several times a day so as to distribute the 
pollen. The first half of the day is the best time to do 
this, and at that period the atmosphere of the house 
should be tolerably dry. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Fn;s.—Where these are grown on open walls the 
pruning cannot be longer delayed, otherwise bleeding 
is apt to ensue when warm weather induces fresh 
