502 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
April 6, 1889. 
CLAYE HOUSE, HALIFAX. 
When on a recent tour in the north I had the pleasure 
of visiting one of the most picturesque places in the 
neighbourhood of Halifax, Yorkshire, viz., that of 
Claye House, the residence of J. G. Wheelwright, Esq. 
Some parts of the mansion were built in the year 1400, 
and others later on. The antique structure stands on 
an eminence overlooking the splendid Calder Yale, and 
having the old town of Elland in full view. The object 
of my visit was to inspect the horticultural part of the 
establishment, which is in charge of Mr. S. Heaton, a 
sound, practical, and scientific gardener who frequently 
gives lectures and essays in the district in furtherance 
of the cause of horticulture. The gardens are not 
very extensive, comprising two small kitchen gardens 
and a beautiful flower garden, which lies very 
low and is well seen from the terraces which lead to 
the mansion. 
In going through the houses I was first shown a 
small one used in the season for Cucumber-growing, 
and in the winter for bedding plants. Then came a 
huge stove well filled with exhibition specimens, such as 
Allamandas, Bondeletias, Stephanotis, and notably 
some fine specimens of Anthurium Scherzerianum and 
A. Andreanum, the finest piece I have ever seen. The 
next is a small but beautiful fernery. Then adjoining is 
an Azalea house, which is becoming gay with bloom 
from large and well-grown plants. The conservatory 
was nicely filled with bloom of Spiraeas, Calla tethiopica, 
Primulas (which are well grown), Tulips, Hyacinths, 
&c., and a splendid plant of Habrothamnus elegans 
covers a large portion of the roof. The next two houses 
are occupied with Eoses Marechal Niel and Gloire de 
Dijon, which have hundreds of blooms and buds. 
Leaving this range we pass to the Orchid houses, 
which are three in number, the Cattleyas being mag¬ 
nificent, some large, healthy plants, with good blooms, 
in size, substance, and colour ; there were other good 
varieties coming on which will keep the house gay for 
some time. The next house contains a large collection 
of Cypripediums, Vandas. Lfelias, Aerides, Dendrobiums, 
Saccolabiums, &c. ; and following this is the Odonto- 
glossum house, which has a nice show of 0. Alexandrse, 
0. Harryanum, 0. sarcodes, and numerous others. 
The plants are in nice condition, and altogether I was 
pleased with what I saw at this quaint old place.— 
F. H. Illingworth. 
-- »X< -»- 
LAWNS FROM SEED. 
Now that the season for sowing Grass seeds is close at 
hand, a few remarks may not be out of place. Assuming 
that the preparation of the ground to be laid down was 
commenced in autumn, by having it dug evenly over, 
and any draining which may have been required done 
at the same time, it should now be made thoroughly 
firm and level, if not already done. Having also been 
raked over, it should be allowed to lie in such a con¬ 
dition for two or three weeks before sowing the seeds, 
when it will be found that a large quantity of weeds 
have made their appearance. Select a good drying day, 
and have the ground carefully hoed over. By attending 
to this little extra labour, many weeds are got rid of 
which would otherwise have come up amongst the 
Grasses, and most probably the seedsman who supplied 
the seeds would get credit for their appearance. 
The following kinds are most suitable for lawns, 
and the quantities given 
are 
sufficient 
to 
sow an 
acre :— 
Names of Grasses. 
Light 
Soil. 
Heavy 
Soil. 
Shady 
Places. 
lbs. 
lbs. 
lbs. 
Agrostis vulgaris 
6 
... 0 
12 
Cynosurus cristatus ... 
10 
... 16 
12 
Trisetum flavescens ... 
4 
0 
0 
Festuca duriuscula 
8 
... 10 
0 
,, ovina tenuifolia ... 
6 
... 0 
0 
Poa nemoralis ... 
4 
... 5 
10 
,, ,, sempervirens.. 
4 
... 8 
10 
,, trivialis. 
2 
... 4 
0 
Trifolium reptans 
6 
... 7 
6 
,, filiforme. 
3 
... 0 
0 
53 
50 
50 
Those who object to the Clovers being 
included in 
the mixture, may include a larger proportion of any of 
the above Grasses they find to do naturally well in the 
district. Eye Grass, so strongly recommended by some, 
I have kept out, as I think it of too strong a growth 
for a well-kept lawn. The second or third week in 
April will be early enough to sow the seeds, but a few 
days earlier or later is of little importance should the 
soil be in a suitable condition.— J. 0. B ., Kelso. 
Tie Amateurs’ Garden. 
Crocuses. 
Those who have an opportunity of seeing the London 
parks at the present time will be able to glean some¬ 
thing of the habit of Crocuses in their native homes. 
In the wild state they are scattered about on the short 
grass in irregular clumps, patches, or in sheets covering 
a great extent of ground. To see little clumps of them 
in the well-tilled and kept borders of the garden can 
give no idea of their natural beauty, nor will they do so 
in the form of broad bands round the edges of beds in 
which Tulips and Hyacinths are planted in the spring 
garden. The Crocuses flowering so much earlier than 
those subjects, must inevitably be out of bloom long 
before them, so that there is nothing in such an asso¬ 
ciation. The Crocuses have been flowering for some 
time past, whereas the leaves of Tulips and Hyacinths 
are only just appearing above ground. Planting 
Crocuses in large, scattered, and irregular patches on 
the grass is only a return to a system practised to a 
considerable extent by our forefathers. Not only may 
the endless varieties of the vernal Crocus (C. vernus) 
be planted, but also C. luteus, or Dutch Yellow, which 
is only a garden form of C. aureus, as well as C. 
Susianus, an early yellow, with a rich brown band on 
the three outer segments, and the charming C. biflorus, 
beautifully striped with purple on a pale, or grey, or 
white ground. 
Fuchsias. 
If not already done, Fuchsias may now be re-potted for 
the season. Plants that have been kept in a green¬ 
house through the winter, and where a little fire-heat 
has been used to keep out frost, are now pushing their 
buds, being just in that happy condition to take readily 
to the fresh soil when re-potted. Soil most suitable to 
Fuchsias should be light and rich ; therefore use a 
compost of mellow or friable but fibrous loam, to which 
a quantity of leaf-soil and well-decayed manure has 
been added. Unless the loam employed is of a sandy 
nature, it is advisable to mix with it a good quantity 
of silver-sand, or, in the absence of that, clean, sharp, 
river sand will do just as well. Crock the pots well, 
and over the drainage lay some moss or lumpy pieces 
of turf to keep the soil from washing down, thereby 
stopping up the bottom of the pot and preventing the 
exit of water. During the growing season Fuchsias 
delight in a liberal supply of moisture, both at the 
root and overhead, and must be supplied if good results 
are expected. After the operation of potting is com¬ 
pleted replace the plants in the greenhouse, but do not 
give them any water for a week, unless the soil should 
become excessively dry, or the young buds are con¬ 
siderably advanced. 
Zonal Pelargoniums. 
Before re-potting these for summer decoration, they 
should be pruned and kept dry for a week or ten days 
previous to the operation—that is, if they have been 
kept in an active growing condition up till now. On 
the other hand, if they have simply been resting, and 
in a tolerably dry state, they may be re-potted at once. 
Attend to the matter of pruning, however, as this is 
either badly neglected or misunderstood, as a rule, by 
amateurs. Before being started into fresh growth, 
Pelargoniums of most kinds should be hard cut back 
to a bud or two at the base of last year’s wood. It may 
not, however, be convenient to cut all the young shoots 
back to this point, because the shape of the plant must 
be considered in order to get it as round and regular as 
possible. Plants in small greenhouses are too often 
seen with two or three long, straggling, naked stems, 
simply for the want of a little timely pruning in the 
earlier stages, and attention to light and ventilation 
afterwards. The compost need not be so light as that 
used for Fuchsias, as Pelargoniums like something sub¬ 
stantial in which to grow. Press the soil down pretty 
firmly with the fingers, and the plants will flower all 
the better for it. 
Tuberous Begonias. 
Those fortunate enough in possessing a few old tubers, 
or those even which were raised from seeds last year, 
should now see in what condition they are. If they 
have been wintered in the pots in -which they were 
grown last year, and kept in a moderately warm green¬ 
house, most or all of the tubers will now be sprouting. 
If such is the case they may be re-potted at once, 
shaking away the old soil as carefully as possible. The 
operation of removing the old soil may be facilitated 
by watering it some time before removing it. Should 
the tubers not yet have sprouted, they had better be 
examined to see if they are fresh ; and if so, the soil 
should be moistened and the pots placed in the warmest 
part of the greenhouse to induce fresh growth, after 
which re-potting may be accomplished. A compost, 
consisting of loam, with a quantity of leaf-soil, well- 
rotted cow dung, and sand, will suit these Begonias 
admirably. Do not give any water for some time after 
potting, unless the soil is very dry or growth is active. 
After they have fairly started keep the plants in a light 
position near the glass to maintain a dwarf and sturdy 
habit. 
Scarlet Lobelias. 
What grand subjects these are for the amateur’s 
garden ! In brilliancy of colour they rival some of the 
finest tropical plants that require much artificial heat 
and professional skill to grow them. They are so 
nearly hardy that they may be kept in a greenhouse, or 
even in a frame, that is not artificially heated in any 
way. When bedding plants are lifted in autumn the 
stems of Lobelias should be cut down, and the roots 
lifted in mass and planted out in a cold frame. About 
this time they may be lifted and the soil shaken away, 
so that the whole piece may be separated into as many 
bits as there are crowns, which may be placed singly in 
small pots or simply planted in lines to make some 
growth before being planted outside about the end of 
May. There are many hybrids in cultivation present¬ 
ing other shades of colour than scarlet, but none of 
them surpass that known as Queen Yictoria, which is 
simply Lobelia splendens atrosanguinea, having deep 
bronzy red foliage and brilliant scarlet flowers. L. 
fulgens is a closely allied species with equally large 
flowers, but rather paler foliage. L. cardinalis has 
scarlet flowers, but they are much inferior in size to those 
of the other two, and the foliage is green. 
-- 
Hardening ||iscellany. 
--*•- 
Mitriostigma axillare. 
In its native country, Natal, this deliciously fragrant 
shrub forms a compact spreading bush about 5 ft. in 
height. When grown, however, as a stove plant in 
this country, compact busby subjects, from 6 ins. to 
12 ins. in height, flower very freely during the winter 
months. The annual increment of growth is very 
small, and in order to have a stock of small plants for 
dotting about in the conservatory, cuttings should 
occasionally be taken and rooted in the same waj- as a 
Gardenia. The genus is, in fact, closely allied to the 
latter, and we noted it the other day in the nursery of 
Messrs. J. Yeitch & Sons, Chelsea, under the name of 
G. citriodora. We have elsewhere seen it under the 
title of Mitriostigma citriodora. The specific name in 
these cases refers to the lemon-like odour of the flowers, 
which are white, and nestle in clusters in the axils of 
the leathery evergreen leaves. 
Lachenalia tricolor as a Basket Plant. 
Amongst bulbous plants few are more suitable for 
basket work than Lachenalia tricolor, together with its 
nearest allies, such as L. t. lutea, L. t. Nelsoni, L. t. 
quadricolor, with its large purple lamina, and other 
free-growing kinds. All that is required to be done is 
simply to get a wire basket at the usual potting time 
in autumn, and place a layer of moss over the wire to 
keep in the soil. Then pick out a quantity of good 
even-sized bulbs, and insert them at regular distances 
round the sides, at the same time filling up the basket 
tier after tier as the bulbs are inserted. Press the soil 
firm and place some bulbs all over the upper surface, 
so that when the plants are in flower the whole basket 
may be covered. The basket used may be a hanging 
one, or it may be mounted on some sort of stand, 
so that both foliage and flower-stems, by being 
better exposed to the light, may properly develop on 
all sides alike, and the beauty of the flowers themselves 
in this position will then be displayed to the best 
advantage. 
Erica perspicua nana. 
Comparatively few of the beautiful Heaths which 
have been introduced from time to time are now in 
cultivation. The greater number have been lost, or 
have retreated into a few establishments from whence, 
it is to be hoped, they will again become disseminated 
through the country. The typical form of the plant 
under notice in general appearance may be compared to 
E. hyemalis, but the variety E. nana is dwarfer, more 
compact, and bears quite a profusion of very attractive 
