58 THE GARDENING WORLD. September 26, 18Si. 
drangea paniculatagrandiflora were shown by Mr. C 
Noble, Bagshot . Some seedling Dahlias were shown 
by Mr. G. S. P. Harris, Orpington, Kent. In con¬ 
nection with the afternoon lecture, there was 
a fine exhibit of Nepenthes, Sarracenias and other 
insectivorous plants by Messrs, J. Veitch & Sons. 
Orchids were fairly represented by some small 
groups. Baron Schroder (gardener, Mr. Ballantine), 
The Dell, Egham, showed cut flowers of Cattleya 
Hardyana and C, Dowiana. C, J. Lucas, Esq, 
(gardener, Mr, G. Duncan), Warnhaiil Court, exhi¬ 
bited a scape of Vanda Sanderiana bearing eight 
blooms ; also Cattleya Schofieldiana, Aerides 
Rohanianum, and others. Grammatophyllum 
Seegerianum was shown by Messrs. Seeger & Tropp, 
East Dulwich. Messrs. W. S. Lewis & Co., Chase- 
side, Southgate, exhibited Masdevallia Gaskelliana, 
etc. A small group of Orchids, Consisting of 
Cattleya maxima, Lselia Eyermanii, and others was 
shown by Messrs. Pitcher & Manda, Hextable, 
Swanley. T. Statter, Esq. (gardener, Mr. R. John¬ 
son), Stand Hall, Manchester, showed Cattleya 
intermedia alba, C. Loddigesii splendens, Miltonia 
moreliana atrorubens, and others. The largest 
exhibit was that of Messrs. F. Sander & C-o., St. 
Albans, who had Cattleya Hardyana, C. Gaskel¬ 
liana alba, C. grandis tenebrosa, and the rare and 
beautiful Vanda Hookeriana, of which we give an 
illustration, by the courtesy of Messrs. Veitch, on 
p. 53,, for which a Silver Banksian Medal was 
awarded. 
At a meeting of the Fruit Committee a Silver 
Banksian Medal was awarded to Messrs. Wm. Paul 
& Son, Waltham Cross, for a large collection of 
Apples and Pears. Some fine Peaches were shown 
by Mr. J. Silbert, gardener to the Rev. L. R. Flood, 
The Rectory, Merrow, Guildford. Some seedling 
Apples and Plums were shown by Messrs. Laxton 
Bros., Bedford. Some Melons were staged by Mr. 
G. Wythes, Syon House, Brentford, by Mr. Tubbs, 
gardener to Col. W. "Walpole, The Lodge, Tedding- 
ton, and by Mr. Gilmour, gardener to the Earl of 
Shrewsbury, Ingrestre Hall, Staffs. 
♦ r 
WHAT TO DO IN THE GARDEN, 
Shading. — Stove plants of the hard-wooded and 
flowering types will now require very little or no 
shading at all, except the weather is unusually bright. 
A maximum of light with a certain amount of direct 
sunshine is absolutely necessary to the proper ripen¬ 
ing of the wood, and this should be accompanied by 
a high temperature, with a certain amount of ventila¬ 
tion according to the state of the weather, and a 
moderately dry atmosphere. Where the shading 
consists of movable blinds, the latter can be let down 
or pulled up as occasion requires, but permanent 
shading or whitewash should be entirely washed off, 
except where soft-leaved, fine foliaged plants are 
standing beneath. 
Azaleas, Camellias, &c.—Before housing these 
subjects, they should be thoroughly cleansed from 
filth and insect enemies, such as thrip on the Azaleas 
and scale on the Camellias. The latter frequently get 
covered with a black substance, the excretion of the 
scale together with fungi growing upon it. This 
black slimy filth together with the scale should be 
washed off with a sponge, using a solution of soft soap 
or Gishurst Compound in water to facilitate the work 
and render it more effectual. Azaleas should be laid 
on their sides on a board over a tub or similar vessel 
and thoroughly syringed with a Strong solution of 
Gishurst Compound, especially if they are at all 
affected with thrip. The liquid may be used over 
and over again by the use of a tub placed underneath 
the plants to receive it. 
Ferns.— Gold and silver leaved ferns of such 
genera as Gymnogramme, Nothochlaena and Cheil- 
anthes should now be kept in a dry atmosphere, 
otherwise they will soon assume a rusty appearance. 
Lomarias, Woodwardias and similar subjects are 
Very liable to be attacked by thrips, which soon spoil 
their appearance for the rest of the year if the pest 
is allowed to become established. Most Ferns will 
now require less water than hitherto, but in no case 
must they be dried off. 
Plants for the Conservatory. — Early flowering 
Chrysanthemums will now be found useful, and 
those who have them in the open border may lift 
and pot them up, keeping them close for a few days, 
till they take to the fresh soil. A pleasing display 
can be made up with Begonias, tuberous or otherwise, 
Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, Petunias, Salvias, Ferns, 
Mignonette, and any annuals which may be at com¬ 
mand. 
The Rose House.— Those who have the advan¬ 
tage of a Rose house should use it for planting out 
their Roses to Come on without forcing, as much 
finer and more durable flowers are obtained thereby. 
The.house should be freely ventilated night and day 
at the present time, in order to mature the Wood and 
check growth as much as possible. As the weather 
becomes colder, of course, the house should be closed 
at nights. Give sufficient heat merely to exclude 
severe frost in winter, and by judicious ventilation 
and other necessary treatment in spring, Tea Roses 
will come into bloom during April and May, con¬ 
tinuing thence through the summer. Roses for 
forcing should be grown in pots, which can be placed 
in a pit, vinery or other house at work, and so save 
the permanent specimens. 
Melons.— Where the fruits are now ripening a 
high temperature must be kept up with a dry atmos¬ 
phere, otherwise they cannot be expected to attain 
their proper flavour. Ventilate freely, to further 
this end, when the sun shines. In order to avoid 
creating too much moisture in the house, or causing 
the fruits to crack through excess of sap, the roots 
and soil might be protected by a covering of old 
hot bed manure, to preserve the soil in a suitably 
moist condition. 
Cucumbers.— Young plants intended for winter 
fruiting should now be growing vigorously, and to 
encourage them a tolerably moist atmosphere should 
be maintained, while at the same time ventilation is 
freely given in fine weather to keep the plants sturdy. 
Pinch away the lateral shoots and all flowers for a 
time, so as to build up strong, healthy specimens 
which will be all the more able to bear fruit during 
dull and sunless weather later on. 
Fruit Trees.— Any trees that are growing too 
vigorously should be root pruned after the crop is 
gathered, if there be any. Take out a wide trench 
around the tree at a sufficient distance from the trunk 
according to the size of the specimen and shorten 
back the strong rambling roots, also be more par¬ 
ticular in cutting those roots which penetrate the 
soil perpendicularly. In the case of large trees 
having numerous strong roots it would be advisable 
to cut away only one half of them this year, and the 
other half the next autumn. 
Cauliflowers. —Preparation should be made at 
an early date for transplanting a sufficient stock of 
plants into low frames where they can be protected 
for the winter. Some may be planted in groups of 
four or six, to be protected with hand-lights on the 
borders where they are intended to remain. If the 
larger number is used they can be employed in spring 
for filling up gaps. Keep the hand-lights or frames 
close for a few days until the plants show that they 
have taken fresh root, after which full exposure 
should be given all through the winter when the 
weather is fine. 
_ _ 
" ♦ 
Questions add AnsuieHS, 
Pear Trees Diseased. —Mardy : The samples 
labelled No. i show that your trees are very badly 
affected with the Rust of the Pear tree (Roestellia 
cancellata). Judging from the specimens sent, the 
swollen and gouty stems and the excrescences on the 
leaves must give the trees a picturesque appearance, 
but it augurs badly for their success in fruit pro¬ 
duction. Trees only slightly affected might be cured 
in the course of a few years by promptly removing 
and burning all diseased leaves and shoots which 
make their appearance. We are afraid, however, 
that your trees are in a rather hopeless condition, 
and that the best remedy would be to uproot and 
burn them entirely, so as to destroy the fungus. A 
safe plan would be to plant Apple or Plum trees in 
place of Pears, giving the latter a place at some dis¬ 
tance from where the diseased trees are now growing. 
No fungicide applied to the trees would be of any 
avail in killing the fungus, although it might prevent 
its spreading by frequent applications. The leaves 
labelled No. 2 are much affected with the Pear-leaf 
Gall Mite (Phytoptus Pyri). Almost the same 
remedies given for the Rust of the Pear tree will 
apply here. Soon after the leaves unfold in spring 
you will notice that they are covered with greenish- 
yellow blisters. By removing the leaves and burn¬ 
ing them at this time you will destroy the mites 
which are still in the leaf. We fear the mites have 
left them by this time. If the trees are bad all over 
the best plan would be to replace them by younger 
ones. 
Flowers for Bees. — Wm. Reid: Favourite 
annuals with bees are Collomia coccinea, Mignonette, 
Lupins, Impatiens Roylei, Borago officinalis, Lim- 
nanthes Douglasii, Nemophila insignis, Common 
Bean (Vicia Faba), Mustard (Sinapis nigra or S. 
alba), Malcolmia maritima, Erysimum Perowfski- 
anum, Scabiosa atropurpurea. A large number of 
Crucifers might be added as they are favourites 
generally with bees, at least the conspicuous and 
showy flowering sorts. There is also a host of bee- 
plants either biennial or perennial, some of which 
might be more serviceable than the above. For 
instance, those who go in for bee-farming would find 
that Crocuses, varieties of C. vernus and others, 
would be useful in spring. Later on several species 
of Clover (Trifolium incarnatum, T. pratense, T. 
repens, and T. hybridum), Sainfoin (Onobrychia 
sativa), and Melilot (Melilotus officinalis) would be 
found to supply a large quantity of honey. Ther6 
are numerous trees that might receive particular at¬ 
tention by bee-keepers, 
Annual Composites for Cut Flowers.— Wm , 
Reid: All of the following are good, namely. 
Chrysanthemum carinatum and its varieties, C, 
coronarium and varieties, C. segetum grandiflorum, 
yellow, Ursinia (Sphenogyne) speciosa or U. pulchra, 
yellow and black zone, Swan River Daisy (Brachy- 
come iberidifolia), blue, purple, and white varieties. 
Calendula officinalis, orange, C. pluvialis, white, 
Coreopsis Drummondi, golden yellow, China Aster' 
(Aster or Callistephus chinensis), various, Zinnia 
elegans, various, Cosmos bipinnatus, purple, Lajda 
elegans, yellow and broad white edge, Anthemis 
tinctoria, golden yellow, Centaurea suaveolens, 
yellow, and Crepis rubra, red. The above comprise 
twelve genera, several species of some of which are 
highly meritorious. Venidium calendulaceum is 
really a perennial, although usually grown as an 
annual in this country. 
Cultural Treatment for Orchid.— J. M. : 
The specimens you sent us were those of Xylobium 
squalens. There are about sixteen species of Xylo¬ 
bium natives of Tropical America and allied to 
Maxillaria. None of them are very ornamental, 
and the flowers seldom exceed in size those you sent 
us. They are by no means common in gardens at 
the present day, and the chief recommendation they 
have is that they are uncommon. Your species is 
a native of Brazil, and requires a temperature of 6o° 
to 70° degrees while making its growth, but 50° 
would be quite high enough while resting in winter. 
At that time less water will be required, but on 
no account must the pseudobulbs be allowed to 
shrivel by keeping them too dry. 
Names of Plants. — Thomas Hunter: 1, Thuya 
pendula ; 2, Jasminum nudiflorum ; 3, Thuya orien- 
talis ; 4, Jasminum officinale ; 5, Retinospora plumosa 
aurea; 6, Cedrus Libani; 7, Cedrus Deodara; 8, 
Euonymus japonicus latifolius aureo-marginatus. 
J.D. IF.: 1, Selaginella uncinata ; 2, Begonia parvi- 
flora ; 3, Epidendrum next week ; 4, Varieties of 
Chrysanthemum we cannot undertake to name. The 
Apples are not known to us. Omega: 1, Onoclea 
sensibilis ; 2, Gleditschia triacanthos; 3, Rudbeckia 
purpurea. 
Currants. — T. Hunter: Your bushes are attacked 
by the Currant-bud mite, and there is no remedy 
but cutting off the shoots on which the buds are 
attacked in spring and burning them. 
Apple Measures. — T. Hunter: A sieve of Apples 
in Covent Garden contains seven imperial gallons, 
The diameter is 15 in., depth 8 in. 
Edging. — I have about a mile of edging to do in 
the coming winter. Can any of your readers tell me 
where I can get a neat edging of tile or stone ? 
Locality twelve miles south of Manchester.— T. H. 
Names of Fruits. — A. Gardener: 1, Red Astra- 
chan ; 3, Hunt's Early ; 4, Old English Codlin ; 5, 
8, William’s Bon Chretien ; 6, Bishop's Thumb ; 7, 
Beurre Bose.— T. P. : Apple New Hawthornden. 
Pears: 1, Beurre Clairgean; 2, William’s Bon 
Chretien.—IF. Davis: 1, Lord Suffield ; 2, Gloria 
Mundi; 3, Mother; 4, Manks Codlin. 
Pinks and Carnations. — Laced Pink : Lift the 
plants carefully with good balls, and pot them in 
sweet, sandy loam and leaf soil, with a little well-de¬ 
cayed manure. Put them in a close frame for a few 
days until the roots have got hold of the new soil, 
and then remove them to a cool greenhouse, from 
which you can keep out the frost. The seedlings 
sent are of no commercial value. 
Helichrysum argyrolepis.— J . J. IF. : Try Mr. 
W. Thompson, Tavern Street, Ipswich. 
Communications Received. —F. J. S.—R. H.— 
Sir C. J.—D. P. L.—W. C.—Scot.—Garbrand.— 
W. G.—T. S.~St. Rollox. — S. B. 
--- 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
J. W. Woodward, 63, Grenville Road, Hornsey 
Rise, N.—Dutch and other Bulbs. 
Seeger & Tropp, 112, Lordship Lane, East Dul¬ 
wich, S.E. — General list of Orchids. 
LONDON SEED TRADE. 
September 21 st, 1891. 
Messrs. Hurst & Son, 152, Houndsditch, and 
39, Seed Market, Mark Lane, report a steady de¬ 
mand for Trifolium incarnatum, and a moderate 
enquiry for new winter Tares and Rye at prices 
current last week. Clover seeds steady, Rye 
grasses dearer, 
