150 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
November 7, 1891. 
leading sorts. Mr. Neal has also a large stock of the 
Victoria Plum, dwarf trained and io ft. wide ; also a 
large stock of standards. Of Apples, Pears, and 
Plums alone there are 25,000 maiden trees. Peaches 
are mostly trained as riders with stems 4 ft. high, 
while others are dwarf trained. They, as well as 
Nectarines and Apricots, are in fine condition. 
Something like 100,000 Raspberries of sorts are 
grown to meet the demand. Of red, white, and 
black Currants there are 10,000 plants all four years 
old. Gooseberries in all the leading varieties, and 
three to four years old, are grown to the number of 
6,000, and 2,000 of these are in very fine condition. 

THE APPLE AND HOW 
TO GROW IT.* 
My subject is one which a very short paper could 
scarcely do justice to, but the limited time at my 
disposal renders it necessary that what I have to say 
should be as short and concise as possible. The 
culture of the Apple and Pear in this country has 
received very great attention of late years by fruit 
growers—perhaps I should have said all classes of 
people—in Great Britain, from the nobleman to the 
peasant. All alike have been fired with the desire to 
grow fruit, to grow it well, and to grow only the best 
varieties to be obtained. This has been brought 
about in a great measure by the enormous importa¬ 
tions into this country of excellent fruit from our 
Colonies, America, and elsewhere, which have had 
the effect of limiting the saie of our home produce to 
the best fruit only, inferior quality being unable to 
find a market. It is not that foreign fruit is superior 
to ours of the best kinds in quality or flavour, as I 
have had frequent opportunities of judging ; but they 
seem to have a keen perception of what varieties are 
best to cultivate, how to grow them, how to select 
for sale purposes, and how to pack them, as shown 
by the excellent condition in v'hich they are received 
here. I may here say that I have seen many examples 
of fruit that have, been grown in this country, when 
delivered in the market and also placed upon the 
table, quite a disgrace to English fruit-growers, 
caused by the want of care in gathering and storing. 
It, therefore,'shows that to have Apples and Pears in 
perfection, it is necessary that everything should be 
thoroughly understood from the moment the trees 
are received for planting till the fruit is placed on the 
table for use. I will endeavour, to the best of my 
ability, to give a few hints bearing on the subject, 
based on the practical experience I have had. I will 
confine my remarks to the culture of the Apple and 
Pear for gardens only, and for family supply. I 
should like here to say that the annual Fruit Exhibi¬ 
tions that have been held annually in the city of 
Exeter have assisted very much by their excellent 
displays to bring about also an increased interest in 
the growth of these fruits in our Western Counties—- 
a fact to which our nurserymen could testify by the 
great demand that has been made upon their stock. 
In passing, I should like to remark that these 
exhibitions of fruit have not been excelled in quanti¬ 
ties or qualities anywhere out of London, which is 
saying a great deal for our Devonshire fruit growers. 
The judges on these occasions endeavour to make 
the awards to the best fruits before them, irrespective 
of how they are grown, or whether the varieties are 
prolific and easily cultivated, so that there is still 
something wanting to guide the public on these 
points. Here I will say that a society of this kind 
can be rendered of very great benefit by bringing 
together so many practical men that their opinions 
upon all matters connected with horticultural and 
fruit and vegetable culture may be obtained and 
imported to the whole of the fraternity to the benefit 
of the public. I know all do not possess the same 
opinion as to the culture and treatment of the vast 
number of subjects that come under notice, but the 
knowledge of how perfection is obtained under 
different modes of treatment is of very great help to 
everyone. If they fail in one course they do not 
give it up in despair, but try some other methods, 
one of which will, no doubt, lead to success. 
Soil. 
The Apple can be grown in most districts and situa¬ 
tions with a certain amount of success, but the best 
results may be expected where the soil consists of a 
good substantial loam, if not too dry or too moist. 
* A paper read by Mr. D. C. Powell, Powderham Castle 
Gardens, at the first meeting of the Devon and Exeter Gafi- 
,deners' Association, 
In the counties of Gloucester and Hereford,^where 
the Apple and Pear thrive, the deep soil to be found 
there is composed principally of a good loam, often¬ 
times mixed with marl. Heavy clayey soils should 
be well worked, and other lighter soils well incorpo¬ 
rated with them to render them more friable and 
porous, and the subsoil should be well drained. In 
the southern parts of Devonshire, where the soil is 
a light loam, resting on a subsoil of red sandstone, 
the Apple succeeds admirably, so long as sufficient 
moisture can be kept at the root. The sandstone 
affords a perfect drainage ; therefore there is no fear 
of having an excess of moisture. The great evil in 
these districts to contend with is in very dry seasons ; 
a spell of dry weather of only a few weeks’ duration 
soon renders the soil very dry, and unless artificial 
means are adopted for supplying this deficiency the 
trees are sometimes spoilt in one season for future 
cropping. Therefore light, deep, loamy, well drained 
soils are the best, guarding against excess of moisture 
by draining. 
Planting. 
Trees at planting time should have all possible care 
taken of their roots, that they be not exposed to the 
sun, drying winds,-or severe frosts. The small fibrous 
roots should not be damaged in any way. The larger 
roots, those that have a downward tendency, should 
be cut as far back as possible; those travelling hori¬ 
zontally should be shortened—the object being, to 
produce as many .fibrous roots as possible, and to 
grow horizontally^ and near the surface. All torn or 
jagged roots should have the damaged portion cut 
away. Strong roots are productive of strong vigorous 
shoots, and usually unproductive of fruit, hence the 
reason for pruning them. Trees should never be 
planted deeply, and should be so arranged that the 
stem shall show as much above ground as when 
growing in the nursery. 
Training. 
As I purpose treating on the culture of the Apple for 
gardens only and for family supply, I will first men¬ 
tion the most desirable mode of training them. 
Undoubtedly, the “Pyramid ” form is the favourite 
shape, on account of the small space it occupies and 
the ready manner in which any of the operations of 
pruning, root pruning, and the gathering of the fruit 
can be performed. Besides, it admits of pruning so 
as to insure an efficient exposure of the wood, foliage, 
and fruit to the full action of the sunlight and a free 
circulation of air, so necessary to perfect maturation. 
It is decidedly ornamental, and from its construction 
the fruit is not endangered by the effects of high 
winds. The “bush" form gives less trouble and 
anxiety in training, but occupies more space. It can 
be made equally fruitful, but without the other 
advantages mentioned for “pyramids.” Espaliers 
and Cordons are especially adapted for small gardens, 
with limited spaces for fruitgrowing; they take up so 
little room, and have a very neat appearance if trained 
to strong wire or iron trellises instead of wooden 
stakes. They may be induced to fruit as successfully 
as by any other mode of training, and are also very 
suitable to grow where taller forms would produce 
undesirable shade. Standards I would not recom¬ 
mend for garden work ; they certainly give the least 
trouble after the first few years, but their presence 
greatly interferes with the cultivation of other garden 
subjects. I do not propose to enter into the raising 
of stock, neither would I recommend it for gardeners, 
or amateurs, unless for experimental purposes. We 
have so many nursery establishments that make a 
speciality of preparing stock, and that can be relied 
on to supply what is true to name, and good trees 
ready for fruiting at moderate prices within the 
reach of everyone, that I consider it sheer waste of 
time, labour, and space to attempt it. We all try to 
get the best possible results in the shortest possible 
time, and my advice is to buy your trees. It is 
always cheaper to buy the largest and best shaped. 
Trees from five to six years from the graft are 
especially recommended. 
Transplanting. 
There are times for performing all the operations 
necessary to successful culture. The same rule 
refers to Apples and Pears as to all other trees of a 
deciduous nature. They all shift or transplant best 
as they are shedding their last autumnal foliage. 
With the Apple and Pear the end of October and 
early in November this occurs, so that to secure the 
best results the selection of the varieties required 
should have been made and placed in the hands of 
the nurseryman some time prior to this date. The 
ground, too, should have been deeply trenched 18 in. 
deep, or pits 3 ft. to 4 ft. across prepared, and any 
draining required done, so that nothing might delay 
planting at the proper time. Planting may safely be 
done up to the end of February, but as root action 
commences immediately the tree is planted, so it is 
quite clear that the earlier it is done the sooner will 
the plants become established, and, of course, better 
results. Pyramids may be planted from 10 ft. to 
15 ft. apart, Espaliers, 15 ft.; and Cordons, if single, 
trained horizontally, 6 ft. ; if double, 12 ft., and if 
trained upright or obliquely on trellis work or walls, 
18 in. to 2 ft. apart. Having determined the dis¬ 
tances for planting, pits should be taken out 3 ft. to 
4 ft. across and 18 in. deep, the lower spit being 
simply turned. In filling up the pits at time of 
planting, a barrow-load of fresh loam should be 
mixed with the ordinary soil as the planting proceeds. 
First of all a mound should be raised in the centre 
until of sufficient height that the plant, when placed in 
position, shall stand 3 in. above the surrounding 
level, and gradually slope about 3 in. from the 
centre to the sides. The plant, being placed in the 
desired position, should have its lower roots care¬ 
fully and regularly laid out all round, covering them 
with fine earth, generally obtainable from the sur¬ 
face of the garden quarters near, and which has 
been frequently enriched by constant dressings, and 
which forms excellent food for the young roots to 
start in, continuing the same process with each layer 
of roots till all are covered ; give the stem a good 
shaking, which will mix and settle the soil among the 
fibrous roots. At every stage the soil should be made 
moderately firm with the foot. If the soil is natur¬ 
ally poor, manure from the refuse heap should be 
mixed with the soil when planting, but avoid strong 
or farmyard manures, which would only promote 
strong and vigorous instead of hardy and sturdy 
growth. If very wet weather prevails, rendering 
the soil in a heavy and saturated condition, it is 
much better to defer planting till such times as the 
soil can be worked easily and in an efficient manner. 
All trees requiring it should be immediately secured 
against the effects of wind by having three stakes 
driven in at equal distances round the tree and 3 ft. 
from the stem, which should be firmly tied by using 
tarred cord, first of all encircling the stem with a 
band of hay, straw, cloth, or other material, to pre¬ 
vent the ligature damaging the bark. The surface of 
the soil should then be mulched with litter to pro¬ 
tect the roots from the effects of severe frosts and 
the soil from drying winds. By using bands made 
of hay or straw this litter may be pegged down 
neatly, which will ensure a tidy appearance and pre¬ 
vent the birds from digging or scratching during the 
winter months in search of food, 
(To be continued.) 
_ K 
new ^ mm pitfips. 
The undermentioned subjects were exhibited at the 
Drill Hall, Westminster, on the occasion of the meet¬ 
ing of the Royal Horticultural Society on the 27th 
ult., and received awards according to merit. 
Chrysanthemum Louis Bcehmer. —In the early 
stages or w’hen half expanded the flower heads of 
this variety are broad, spreading, and concave, owing 
to the incurving of the florets, but as the crown 
develops they assume a semiglobular form. The 
florets vary greatly, both in width and in colour, 
apparently according to cultural treatment. They 
are narrow, or at other times relatively wide, and 
pink shaded, with white at the tips, but yellow in the 
early stages, and bristly along the back, but particu¬ 
larly near the apex. Blooms or plants were 
exhibited by Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons, Chelsea, 
Messrs. Pitcher & Manda, Hextable, Swanley, and 
by W. Furze, Esq., Broom Road, Teddington. An 
Award of Merit was accorded in each case. 
Chrysanthemum Mons. R. Bahuant.— For des¬ 
cription of this fine incurved variety see p. 114. It 
was exhibited by Mr. R. Owen, Castle Hill, Maiden¬ 
head, Mr. R. Falconer Jameson, Hessle, Hull, and 
by Messrs. J. R. Pearson & Sons, Chilwell, Notts, 
receiving an Award of Merit in each case. 
Chrysanthemum Mrs. Nisbet. —This is an 
English raised seedling, growing about 3 ft. high. 
The flower head for the reflexed Japanese class may 
be considered large, The florets are very broad, and 
deep crimson-red, with a silvery reverse, and are 
slightly concave at the tips. After full expansion 
