January 9, 1892. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
291 
B. Rex type, B. ricinifolia, B. nelumbaefolia, and 
others. Certain species drop their leaves, including 
B. metallica, B. ovata, B. malabarica, B. argenteo- 
guttata, B. manicata, B. maculata, and B. M. Hardy, 
In some cases the naked stems are three feet long, 
and now look like so many Willow stools in winter. 
is interesting to note that B. Haageana in full 
flower and leaf has hitherto not suffered in the least 
notwithstnnding the shabby appearance of the allied 
B. metallica. 
-- 
DEUTZIA GRACILIS. 
There are few owners of gardens with whom this 
grand old spring flowering plant does not rapidly be¬ 
come a favourite after being introduced to their glass 
structures. The profusion of snow-white blossoms 
with which it is often seen covered at a season when 
it is specially acceptable, together with the freedom 
with which they are produced, classes it among the 
most useful sources of cut flower supply, and when 
well managed it forms one of the most showy and 
graceful specimens that can be used for conservatory 
decoration. 
In making a brief reference to some of its chief 
cultural requirements, in order to secure a good show 
of bloom, I am reminded of an old cultivator's obser¬ 
vation that attention or inattention to the seemingly 
trifling items of plant culture make all the difference 
between success and failure. Respecting this Deutzia 
it may first be noted that when the plants have done 
flowering free healthy growth should be promoted, 
and that growth must not be checked by heedlessly 
turning them out to the back of a wall or other con¬ 
venient corner in the open air, before the ripening of 
the young shoots is almost completed. Such plants 
as are afforded a light position under glass, and a 
genial growing temperature being also carefully 
attended to, with moisture at the roots and overhead, 
then gradually kept drier and hardened off before 
transferring them out of doors, may be expected to 
bear a good crop of flowers, but not otherwise. 
Stunted plants may be cut hard back and placed 
in a brisk growing temperature till new growth is 
apparent. They may then be shaken clear of the 
old soil, and repotted in similar sized pots to those 
they formerly occupied, using good turfy or peaty 
loam two parts, and the remaining portion of the 
compost may be equal parts of sand, leaf soil, bone 
meal, and charcoal. Thorough drainage of the pots 
must not be overlooked. Plants thus manipulated 
should be grown on steadily, under similar conditions 
as advised for others after they have done flowering, 
and to avoid the risk of losing a crop of blooms, they 
may have to be kept under glass most of the summer 
and autumn if the season is wet and sunless, in order 
to properly ripen their growth. A cold pit if it can 
be spared will answer well during the latter period, 
to which abundance of air should be constantly ad¬ 
mitted. The practice of cutting Deutzias back and 
then turning them outside to take their chance is not 
unknown to me, and needless to say is about the best 
for destroying the prospects of a show of flowers for 
an indefinite period. 
Deutzia gracilis is readily propagated about the 
end of April by placing young growing shoots in pots 
of finely sifted sandy compost, and keeping them 
close, moist, and shaded in a warm and steady tem¬ 
perature. When rooted pot them off into thumb-pots, 
and grow them on in the same soil and under similar 
conditions as recommended for large specimens. 
Such plants when young will be found specially 
useful for room or corridor decorations, as well as 
for sundry other purposes, for which they may be 
selected. The time for housing plants for flowering 
will of course depend on when they are particularly 
required. They are generally most prized from Janu¬ 
ary to March, and consequently to have a succession 
during that period more or less forcing must be 
resorted to. One half of our stock of plants was 
placed in the forcing house at the beginning of 
December, for service during the former part of the 
period referred to, while the rest of them will follow 
early in the new year for later work. Before forcing 
commences we generally loosen the surface soil in the 
pots a little, and apply a slight top-dressing of loam, iu 
which is mixed a little of Thomson's Vine and plant 
manure, or Clay's Fertilizer. The plants must be 
amply supplied with water during the tirrie they are 
in bloom, and in addition to this syringe or water 
overhead till the flower buds burst, When in full 
bloom OF nearly SQ remove them to th§ conservatory 
or other cool structure, where they should be afforded 
plenty of light and air, but cold and strong currents 
must be avoided.— D. M., Ayrshire. 
VILLA GARDENING AND 
MANAGEMENT OF CONSERVA¬ 
TORY. 
(Concluded from p. 280 ,) 
Amongst hardy border plants suitable for the villa 
garden there is such a variety, and each alike has its 
claim. All are beautiful and deserving attention ; 
but as a long list is only bewildering, I shall not 
mention many; but I would advise any who are fond 
of this class of plants to notice the splendid exhibits 
staged at all our suburban horticultural shows by the 
leading nurserymen in such tempting style, all plainly 
and correctly named. To me a collection of hardy 
border flowers is one of the greatest attractions. 
Aquilegia chrysantha, Delphiniums, herbaceous 
Phloxes, Perennial Asters, Pyrethrums, Evening 
Primrose (CEnothera biennis,CE. Youngi), Anemones, 
Hepaticas, Harpalium, Coreopsis, Pentstemons, Fox¬ 
gloves, Chrysanthemum maximum, Pseonies, Geum 
coccineum, Gaillardias, Gypsophila paniculata, and 
G. elegans, Thalictrums, with light elegant foliage, 
Liliums, Campanulas, Lychnis chaledonica, Iceland 
Poppies, &c., are amongst the best. 
Annuals make a grand display in beds, or in 
patches. The following are hardy:—Cornflower 
(Centaurea Cyanus minor), Sweet Peas, Sweet 
Sultan, Dianthus Heddewigii (Indian Pinks), Shirley 
Poppies, Annual Chrysanthemums, Limnanthes 
Douglasii, and Eschscholtzias or Californian 
Poppy. These, if sown in spring, will flower in 
a few weeks from the time of sowing in the open 
borders. Other annuals, some of which require a 
slight hot-bed or artificial heat to assist germination, 
are—Nicotiana affinis, Leptosyne maritima, Godetias, 
Nasturtium, Ten-week Stocks, Asters, Sweet 
Alyssum, Convolvulus (very effective climbers), 
Miniature Sunflowers, Rhodanthe Manglesii, a very 
pretty everlasting flower, Salpiglossis grandiflora, 
Sanvitalia procumbens, Schizanthus, and Tagetes, a 
pretty dwarf-growing plant, an excellent substitute 
for Calceolarias and will thrive in the poorest soil. 
Ferns form a pretty feature in the garden, pro¬ 
vided a suitable place can be found for them. With 
a shady place and a few rough stones some of our 
British Ferns will thrive if plenty of moisture is 
given in summer. Polystichums, Scolopendriums, 
Athyriums, Lastraes and many others are perfectly 
hardy,and will thrive in fairly good garden soil,and if'a 
little peat can be added better results can be obtained. 
In the lists given I have left out many that I should 
have liked to have included, both amongst her¬ 
baceous border plants, annuals, and flowering 
shrubs for the reason I gave. There are, however, 
a few which I think deserve more attention. Be¬ 
gonias form capital bedding plants, and continue 
blooming freely till the frost destroys them. Seed 
sown in heat in March will produce plants which 
will bloom at the end of summer and form good 
bulbs for the second year. The tubers can be kept 
in a greenhouse in a fairly dry place where the 
temperature does not run below 45 0 , and if allowed 
to start into growth gradually in spring will make 
strong shoots and flower freely in fairly good soil. 
The beautiful Japanese Maples are very effective in 
the shrubbery. The Garland Rose is seldom seen, 
but makes an excellent covering to a porch or 
verandah. Gladioli are seldom seen; Bamboos 
form elegant and graceful plants, and many others 
might be added to our villa gardens. 
And now a word as to the management of the con¬ 
servatory, or structure attached to many residences, 
often built with more regard to external appearance 
than to suitability for plant culture, which owing to 
this defect, and improper means of admitting fresh 
air in a form to be beneficial to the plants, requires 
care and attention in management, or many dis¬ 
appointments will result. Nothing is more injurious 
to plant life than cold draughts, and in admitting 
fresh air—which is essential to successful plant 
culture under glass—this ought always to be 
aygided. Those plants which will thrive in an 
Ordinary greenhouse or conservatory do not require 
artifical heat to grow and flower freely, except to keep 
out frost, and sometimes to dispel damp during 
prolonged fogs and sunless days. In winter, veiD 
tilation and watering are the most important points 
to be attended to ; during foggy weather' the 
ventilation or windows used to admit air ought to be 
kept closed; if there are top ventilators, these 
might be opened a very little if the temperature is 
higher, through the use of fire-heat, than is required, 
and then only for a very short time. The aspect 
and situation of the conservatory ought to be 
studied. If the aspect is a southern one and the first 
rays of the sun are caught, air ought to be admitted 
before the temperature has risen many degrees. In 
such a position slight shade is necessary in the 
hottest months, and the ventilators in summer may 
be left open if convenient, at any rate a little way, all 
night. 
These trivial matters and minor details are those 
which successful cultivators attend to most carefully. 
Much more success may be obtained by exercising 
common sense than by following hard and fast 
rules ; constant watchfulness and care are absolutely 
necessary to ensure success, and the cultivator who 
loves his plants and bestows care and attention in 
these details—which many persons ignore or 
neglect, but which does not escape the watchful 
eye—is generally the most successful one and 
obtains best results. With regard to watering, the 
same may be said ; the observer will notice those 
which are moisture-loving plants and give them a 
a liberal supply. 
herns should never be allowed to become dust 
dry ; many foliage plants will suffer if kept too dry. 
Again in spring and early summer, when growth is 
rapid, and bright sun is often accompanied with dry¬ 
ing winds, much more water is needed than in dull 
weather ; and in winter, when vegetation is dormant, 
the supply of water should be lessened. 
Neatness and order are very essential to have a 
pleasing appearance, and to attract the eye. I have 
been disgusted sometimes on going into a conserva¬ 
tory to see broken pots pushed under the stage, 
decayed and withered plants pushed on a shelf with 
dead leaves attached, dead plants still remaining on 
the stages, and other evidence of untidiness. All 
decayed leaves and blossoms should be removed ; in 
the case of Ferns the dead or withered fronds cut off; 
all dead plants and empty pots removed, and all 
possible light given to the living occupants. Some¬ 
times the conservatory is overcrowded ; there are 
great temptations certainly ; each plant finds a favour 
in our eyes, but a few well-grown specimens give 
greater satisfaction and credit to the cultivator than 
too many crowded together, which only cause disap¬ 
pointment and discouragement. I would recommend, 
once a week at least, that the conservatory be gone 
over, cleaning off all decayed leaves and blooms, 
brushing the stages and slightly rearranging the plants; 
it gives a fresh and cheerful appearance, and will 
amply repay trouble taken to keep it clean and neat. 
The words of a correspondent of a daily paper a few 
weeks ago on “ Successes and failures in a green¬ 
house,” I think are worth repeating :— 11 There is 
always something to be seen, something to be tended, 
something to be admired in our greenhouse. To us 
it has been a source of pleasure and infinite amuse¬ 
ment, and many a little worry, many a little annoy¬ 
ance has been laid to rest by the scent of our Lilies 
or a glance at the gold of our Genistas. Considering 
our small expenditure, and still scantier knowledge, 
it is only justice to own that the flowers we love re¬ 
pay right loyally our love and care.” 
If a few climbing plants are required for a wall 
covering or a roof, I would recommend Asparagus 
plumosus, Lapageria rosea, L. alba, and the old 
and rather rare Pelargonium Rollison’s Unique 
forms an excellent covering to a wall and flowers 
profusely. I also recommend Cobsea scandens, 
Heliotrope, Tacsonia Van Volxemii, Lygodium scan¬ 
dens, an elegant climbing Fern, Eccremocarpus 
scaber, etc. For foliage plants Aspidistras, Ficus 
elastica, and the variegated form, Aralias, Araucarias, 
Grevillea robusta, Acacias, Cyprus alternifolia, and 
Coleus will stand in summer. Aspleniums, Pteris, 
Woodwardias, Adiantums, and a few of the hardier 
Palms are very desirable. For flowering plants I 
recommend Genistas, Acacias, Azaleas, Fuchsias, 
Callas, Camellias, Pelargoniums, Hyacinths, Tulips, 
Narcissus, Freesias, Primulas, Chrysanthemums, 
Begonias, Marguerites, Solanums, bright in winter 
with scarlet berries, Spiraeas, Lilies, Carnations, 
Balsams, Campanulas, Choisya ternata, Myrtles, 
Petunias, Musk, Francoa appendiculata, Cinerarias, 
Calceolarias, Abutilons, Celosia pyramidali3, Coro, 
nilla glauca, Libonia floribumja, Crassula ccccine^ 
ftc A . F wtotyx 
