308 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
January 16, 1892. 
EARLY v. LATE PLANTING 
OF POTATOS. 
The results of early and late planting of Potatos, 
published at p. 289, simply justify what has pre¬ 
viously been written with respect to this subject. 
They show to us nothing that is new, but may have 
helped to dispel some foolish ideas in relation to 
Potato culture, which spring up now and then 
when disease is more than usually destructive. Be¬ 
cause the growths of Potatos are so slender, planters 
have always to steer carefully between the rocks of 
late spring frosts, or loss of crop from too late plant¬ 
ing. But so far as what may be regarded as fairly 
early planting, and the 31st March is only fairly 
early, I have always held that such time is just 
about the average best for all main crops or late 
varieties, if the ground be vacant, weather and soil 
be accommodating, and the labour^can then readily 
be furnished. 
I prefer to plant the late tubers first, because these, 
being later in breaking, take fully two months or 
nearly as long before they appear through the 
ground. When, however, they do so the growths 
are of exceptional strength, because the shoots have 
had ample time to become well rooted. Then if the 
earlier sorts be planted through April, and if it be 
possible every tuber should be in the soil by that 
time, these having been naturally somewhat sprouted 
push growth soon, and are through the ground in a 
few weeks. Thus the late varieties, which need the 
longest growing season, get it, and the precocious 
ones the shorter season. 
It is not a matter for wonder, apart from the short 
seasons given to Mr. Maidens late planted breadths, 
that the crops on these should become less just as 
they were later planted, because it was stated that 
the seed stocks were frequently turned over to destroy 
the eye buds and check growth. Thus the earlier 
planted tubers had the benefit of the first strong 
shoots, and the later ones only such as the frequent 
turnings and maiming of the growths had left, for 
of course such shoots must have been much weakened. 
That alone, apart from all other considerations, 
would account for greater lightness of the crops from 
the late planted breadths. There can be no doubt 
but that in the extreme south and west we may safely 
and advisedly plant Potatos in March, for the bulk of 
the kingdom in April, and the north in May ; for no 
date absolutely can be fixed for all parts of the 
country alike.— A. D. 
PLANTS IN ROOMS. 
It is at this period of the year in particular that 
plants in a living room are doubly welcome. What 
with frost and cold, fog, snow, and rain, the out¬ 
door garden is to a large extent closed to the lover of 
plants and flowers, and then it is that a greenhouse 
or conservatory is doubly valuable, because a screen 
of glass affords opportunity for looking over the 
plants, however bad the weather may be without. 
Those who have no greenhouse grow plants within 
doors, and succeed or fail with them according to the 
adaptability of the plants for the purpose, and the 
attention they receive. 
The Garden in the House. 
What can be done to make the interior of the house 
look bright and cheerful with plants and flowers 
during the winter time ? One favourite method is 
growing a few Hyacinths in glasses, Crocuses in 
saucers, or any other shallow vessel in which a little 
cocoa fibre refuse, or sand and finely powdered 
charcoal can be placed ; while a few single Daffodils 
and Tulips can be grown in pots, and we have 
seen how that variety of the fragrant Polyanthus 
Narcissus known as the Chinese sacred Lily can be 
grown within doors in a bowl of water, sand or soil. 
But all these things require to be grown near the 
light, where sunshine can fall upon them, and where 
they can have all the air possible. To grow them in 
a dark, close part of the room, or upon a mantel¬ 
piece over a fireplace, is to court failure. And care 
should be taken that loss of moisture through 
evaporation, or by the requirements of the plants, be 
replaced at intervals of two or three days as needed. 
Many little attentions suggest themselves to him or 
her whose heart is in the pleasant pastime of growing 
plants within doors—they are all of importance ; it 
is the small attentions which go so much to complete 
the gum of sucq?§§, 
Flowering Plants for Windows. 
One of the best of these at this season of the year is 
the gay and attractive Persian Cyclamen. I have 
known a plant, with proper care, to last in bloom, 
when kept in a window, for the space of three or four 
months. The pot containing the plant should be 
stood in a saucer, and if in the act of watering some 
water runs down through the soil into 
the saucer, it need not be turned out; the 
roots will suck it up in due course. 
The leaves. of the Cyclamen being thick and 
leathery, they can be readily sponged ; a small piece 
of sponge or flannel passed over the leaves three 
times a week will keep them free of any dust deposit, 
and minister to the plant’s health. The flowers, tco, 
are thick, and their petals do not suffer as those of 
flowers of softer texture do. If gas is burnt during 
the evening in the room in which the plant is kept, I 
venture to suggest the plant might be removed while 
the gas is alight; this will help to maintain it longer 
in fresh bloom. 
The Chinese Primula as an indoor Plant. 
Some recommend it for the purpose, but it does best 
in an uninhabited room where there is sufficient 
warmth to enable it to flower. The leaves, though 
thick, are rough on the surface, and not smooth like 
those of the Cyclamen, and they gather dust the 
more readily, but they can be cleansed with care. 
Gas is hurtful to the flowers. It is, however, a very 
free-blooming plant, and given adequate care, it re¬ 
mains in flower a long time. Care is required in 
giving water, and during dull, cold, damp weather it 
should be given only when required. 
A Dry Atmosphere Injurious. 
Undoubtedly one of the greatest obstacles to success 
in the cultivation of plants in rooms where a fire is 
kept, and gas or lamps are burned, is the dryness of 
the atmosphere. In consequence of this, such plants 
as I attempt to grow in this way are stood in earthen¬ 
ware pans, with a little water kept in them. Some¬ 
thing in the way of evaporation goes on, which is 
helpful to the plants, though perhaps not in a large 
degree. One of my favourite plants for winter is 
Primula obconica, because of its perpetual flower¬ 
ing character. It seems the gas fumes do not injure 
the flowers so much as might be supposed, and 
certainly not so much as in the case of some other 
plants. Its freedom of bloom is one of the chief re¬ 
commendations of this charming species of Primula, 
and it may be said to flower all the year round. As 
a matter of course, a certain amount of dust deposit 
gathers upon the blossoms and leaves ; a small piece 
of sponge and a little chilled water soon cleanses the 
latter, while the dust can be shaken from the. blos¬ 
soms. Another good indoor flowering plant is 
Cyclamen persicum. I have known a plant of this 
to remain in good bloom for three months, with just 
a little 'attention in the matter of cleanliness. 
Foliaged plants, such as the Indian Rubber plant, 
and the thick-leaved Aspidistra lurida, are ex¬ 
cellent for room culture, and one of the best 
ferns'to grow is the crested form of Pteris tremula: 
but in all cases careful watering is needed during 
winter. There is prevalent such a common and fatal 
error that plants want so much water daily, that 
many an one is killed through mistaken kindness. It 
is impossible to lay rules for watering that will suit 
all plants, at all times, but it may be said generally 
that the amount of atmospheric moisture that there 
must be in the air for a young, healthily-growing 
plant is by no means inconsiderable ; and in a warm, 
dry sitting-room, or in a warm but unshaded green¬ 
house, under certain circumstances of solar heat, 
drying winds, or overheating by artificial means, the 
air is drained dry as the driest sponge, the dryness 
being, as Dr. Lindley sets forth in his “ Theory of 
Horticulture," in exact ratio between the heat inside 
and the cold without. 
A Good Contrivance for Indoor Plants. 
A friend of mine who has been very successful in grow¬ 
ing plants within doors had a table suitably construct¬ 
ed , and he made a selection of the plants best adapted 
to a dry atmosphere. The table is the length of the 
windows and two to three feet wide, and the corners 
fit tight in order to add to its security, the boards 
forming it being tongued and grooved. Around the 
edges a strip is nailed 3 in. wide, thus forming 
a kind of shallow trough. Two inches of clean silver 
sand are put into it, and the plants stand upon it. 
On the top of the sand is placed a layer of nice green 
moss, and this no[ only regains and gives off moisture, 
but it has a pleasant appearance against the clean red 
pots. The water given to the plants passes through 
to the sand, which absorbs it, and it does not drip 
upon the floor. If any inconvenience is experienced 
in this way, it is best to make the table of zinc, or to 
make a zinc or galvanised-iron tray that will fit on the 
top of a table. 
With such an arrangement as this in use, the plants 
can be frequently sprinkled with water, which cleanses 
the leaves from impurities and promotes their health. 
The sand should be watered should it become dry 
through insufficiency of water passing through the 
soil in which the plants are growing. 
Ordinary Flower Stands Unsuitable. 
The flower stands — generally made of stout iron 
wire—are unsuitable for a room ; the surplus water, 
dead leaves, &c., fall upon the floor, soiling the carpet 
and giving the room an untidy appearance. It may 
be said that this can be avoided by placing the stand 
in a zinc trough, to catch the moisture, but it will be 
a good deal better to have the trough on a table as 
above directed. My friend has his table on rollers, so 
that it can be moved aside without the trouble of 
moving the plants when it is necessary to clean the 
floor. 
Knowlege Gained by Experience. 
In plant treatment, as in mam’ other avocations, but 
especially with plants, much more is learned by ex¬ 
perience than by hearsay. This comes to all who 
take pains. At the outset many failures may result, 
but every one of them, if carefully studied, uillbelhe 
means of obtaining information of a very serviceable 
character. Indeed, there is no better teacher than 
experience, as hundreds of men and women are finding 
every day of their lives.— R. D. 
_ _ ♦ - _ 
" ♦ 
MARICA NORTHIANA. 
On the appearance of “ Effendi W. Beigh’s ” note in 
your issue for December 19th, I at or.ee wrote to a 
friend in Oldham asking him to procure me two 
plants, one for myself, and the other to send to you, 
that you might be able to satisfy your correspondent 
as to its identity. It does seem strange that it sh uld 
be priced so high in nurserymen’s catalogues. I 
have one before me in which it is quoted at 7s., but I 
cannot understand why such prices should be asked 
for a plant that was introduced so long ago, and 
which is so easy of propagation. Loudon says it 
is readily increased by division and by seeds, but 
the latter are seldom available owing to the shy 
flowering of the plant. As to offsets, well, they are 
plentiful enough. The plants received by me had 
three buds on them just above the roots, which I 
have no doubt will make plants in the spring. The 
friend who sent them also pointed out another means 
of increasing them, i.e , by the small buds cr bulbils 
which occasionally (not generally) form on the 
leaves, and which soon grow into plants. This 
habit was new to me. I may tell your correspon¬ 
dent that window gardeners about Oldham do net 
pay 7s. 6d. or half-a-guinea each for their plants. 
The odd sixpence is about their price, and that is 
about the actual value of a small plant of Marica 
Northiana. An error crept into my last which I 
take this opportunity of correcting. The name of my 
friend should read Mr. Councillor James Neild, not 
Wild.— James Percival, Smithy Bridge, near Rochdale. 
[So far as we can tell in the absence of flowers the 
plant received is certainly Marica Northiana.—E d.] 
HYACINTHS IN GLASSES. 
This is an old-fashioned but a very pleasant phase 
of indoor gardening, not nearly so much followed as 
it used to be. It is practically too late to place 
Hyacinths in glasses in order to ensure a satisfactory 
head of bloom, though I have done so as late in the 
season as the middle of January, and had excellent 
results. But some bulbs are much more lasting than 
others, and a great deal depends upon the manner in 
which they have been kept. I am pleased to note 
in several of the suburbs of London evidence that 
the old method is still being employed, though the 
old-fashioned tall chimney glass is still being used ; 
the disadvantage being that no support can be fixed 
to the developing flower spike, as in the case of the 
newer goblet-shaped glass; and, secondly, because 
the base of the glass not being broad enough, there 
is great danger of the glasses toppling over when the 
flower spike becomes developed. The old chimney 
glass gt best is ugly, and ( unlike the new broar]- 
