February 27, 1892. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
407 
abundance of golden yellow pollen grains. In the 
early stages of the flower the black anthers constitute 
a striking contrast with the pure white perianth 
segments and style. ' The plant seems perfectly 
hardy, for we noted it in full bloom a short time ago 
in sandy soil in the nursery of Mr, T. S. Ware, 
Tottenham. 
GAL4NTHUS ALLEN I. 
The leaves of this Snowdrop are of a light glaucous 
green hue, intermediate between those of G. caucasi- 
cus and G. latifolius, the latter having broad green 
leaves. The outer segments of the perianth are 
white. The inner ones are green internally striped 
with slender white lines, and they have a green 
blotch of horse-shoe shape around the sinus or 
apical notch on the outer face. On the whole it is a 
pretty Snowdrop and worthy of a place in a collec¬ 
tion from its distinct appearance when compared 
with G. nivalis and its more closely allied forms. It 
commenced flowering some weeks ago in the Hale 
Farm Nurseries at Tottenham. It may be stated 
that this is a new form of Snowdrop, by some con¬ 
sidered a natural hybrid, and as yet by no means 
plentiful anywhere. 
SCOLIOPU S BIGELOW! 1 . 
The specific name of this plant would lead one to 
infer that it is a North American plant. In habit it 
resembles a Dog’s-tooth Violet (Erythronium) and 
the structure of the flowers shows some resemblance 
to that Liliaceous genus. There are about two leaves 
to each root, and they are elliptic-oblong, deep green, 
and variegated with large brown blotches. The 
flowers to the number of four or more arise from 
amongst the leaves, and although only of moderate 
size, they are peculiar and interesting. The three 
outer segments are lanceolate, and of a rich brown 
with numerous yellow lines ; the inner three are 
smaller, linear, and deep brown with a pale centre. 
There are three anthers, and the trigonous ovary is 
surmounted by a style divided into three long, re¬ 
flexed branches. We noted the plant in the Hale 
Farm Nurseries, Tottenham, where it was grown in 
pots plunged in Coco-nut fibre. 
t •» _ 
THE POTATO, THE BEET, 
AND THE TURNIP. 
At the usual fortnightly meeting of the Devon and 
Exeter Gardeners’ Association, held on the 3rd inst., 
Mr. G. D. Cann, hon. secretary of the Exeter Horti¬ 
cultural Society, presiding, the following paper on 
the vegetables above named was contributed by the 
Rev. A. H. Cruwys, Rector of Cruwys Morchard, 
near Tiverton, a very successful cultivator. 
There is no class of vegetable that pays better for 
good cultivation than the Potato, and, I may add, as 
a rule, no class that receives worse treatment. Now 
in these seasons of blight, when so much has been 
written, and so many experiments tried with success, 
it is the duty of everyone to try in a measure to defy 
its ravages by good cultivation, by which I mean 
suitable soil, carefully prepared, and good, sound 
seed, frequently changed. It does not matter 
whether the disease is caused by electricity in the 
air, bad soil, or the ravages of fungi, there it is. It 
shows itself a little earlier, or a little later every 
year, generally after much rain, or close, foggy 
weather, and one thing is certain, that the most care¬ 
less growers suffer most from its attacks. It is truly 
lamentable to see how some growers seem to invite 
the disease, rather than try to keep it off. Take a 
walk in the country at planting time ; you will see 
one man has selected his ground in the corner of a 
field in which the soil is wet, and too poor to grow 
either corn or roots. The Potato cave, which has 
never been looked at since storing time, is opened, 
and a tangled mass of seed all grown together is ex¬ 
posed, and the weakly white sprouts are rubbed off. 
Is not this one step towards ruin, disease, and 
failure ? Yet this is the course pursued and the sort of 
seed sown in many, many a plot and field, and which 
is expected to produce a good crop ! There are 
many, however, who have learned the value of good 
cultivation, and who on a good, dry, sharp soil, or, 
better still, old brake ground, well manured the pre¬ 
vious autumn, and planted with seed that has been 
thinly spread all the winter, and slightly sprouted, will 
grow a fairly sound crop in any season. 
Time for Planting Potatos. 
Opinions differ as to the best time for planting the 
niain crop. Some think that should the weather be 
suitable, and the ground in working condition, that 
the middle of February is a good time, in order to 
allow a long season of growth before the blight ap¬ 
pears. Others make it a rule to plant as near Lady- 
day as possible. I am led to the conclusion, after 
many years’ experience, that there is no better time 
than the second week in April, for I think that the 
soil, being pulverised by the dry March winds, and 
heated by the April sun, is in a better condition to 
receive the seed, which will then start into growth at 
once, go on at express speed, and be ready to lift at 
the same time as those planted in February or 
March, and which have lain in the ground for weeks 
doing nothing, and exposed to the ravages of slugs, 
grub, and other pests. 
Growing Potatos for Exhibition. 
In growing Potatos for exhibition, two points are 
essential, viz., a warm situation and carefully pre¬ 
pared soil, which should consist of peat, loam, vege¬ 
table ash, and sea sand. The ground should be 
manured in autumn, deeply trenched, and left rough, 
or in ridges, all the winter. About the middle of 
March a little fresh lime should be forked into the 
soil to kill the slugs and worms, and if the wireworm 
is troublesome (as it generally is in light soil) a 
sprinkling of salt and soot may be added. Potatos 
for exhibition should be planted about the middle of 
April, as they are then likely to escape the early May 
frosts, and, in case there are any very choice sorts to 
be grown, it is well to place a few in boxes half filled 
with earth, and let them form roots, in order to re¬ 
place any that from any cause have failed, or been 
touched by frost. It must be remembered that when 
the first growth is cut down by frost, exhibition 
tubers must not be expected. For strong growing 
varieties the drills should be made 20 in. apart, and 
the seed planted 14 in. apart. This will let plenty 
of sun and air into them. Cut the sets, from the 
crown, with two eyes, not more, plant five inches 
deep, and, as soon as the growth appears, fork lightly 
between the drills, and continue to do so once a week 
until the fibres begin to run. Do not mould up in 
the usual way, but simply draw a little earth each 
side of the drills, for it must be remembered that the 
tubers require plenty of sun and air to ripen well, as 
a proof of which the largest and best ripened tubers 
are found nearest the surface. Any exhibitor who 
will take the trouble to grow his Potatos after the 
manner I have described will not be disappointed. 
Lifting the Crop. 
Two or three days before the Potatos are wanted 
for exhibition lift them very carefully with a five¬ 
pronged fork, and be very careful not to rub off the 
smallest bit of skin, or the tubers will be spoilt 
for exhibition. Having selected the number required 
(and a few in reserve in case of accident) expose them 
to the sun for an hour, turning them once, then wrap 
each tuber in paper, and place in the dark until 
wanted. Should the weather be dry at the time of 
lifting, little or no washing will be required ; indeed 
the tubers will look better without it, for they will be 
quite clean if grown in prepared soil, such as I have 
described. In selecting samples for exhibition (if 
highest quality is aimed at) choose tubers weighing 
about half a pound, and no more; over that weight 
they become coarse as a rule. It must be remem¬ 
bered that we aim at growing something of the 
highest quality for table use, and the gigantic 
specimens we so often see on the exhibition tables 
are practically worthless for that purpose. At lifting 
time we are too apt to set aside our very best and 
most shapely tubers, because we think they are not 
quite large enough. I trust the day is not far dis¬ 
tant when quality will take the place of quantity. 
Depend upon it, our exhibition tables will be made 
more attractive by the change, exhibitors will de¬ 
rive infinitely more satisfaction, and the competi¬ 
tion, w'hich now too often is confined to a few 
specialists, will be keener. 
How to Grow Beet for Exhibition. 
Nothing is more effective on the exhibition table than 
a well-grown dish of Beetroot, and which, with a 
little care and trouble, can be grown nearly as per¬ 
fect in shape as a Carrot. The soil to grow it for 
exhibition should be precisely the same as that I 
have described for Potatos, viz., a mixture of good 
light loam, peat, vegetable ash, and sea sand. Pre¬ 
pare the soil in autumn by trenching to a depth of 
18 in., and having roughly shaped the bed, let 
it lie rough all the winter. A little well-rotted 
manure mry be placed at the bottom of the trench, 
but nor.e mixed with the soil, either in autumn or at 
sowing time. About the beginning of March turn 
the bed over and sow a little salt and soot. About 
the first week in April prepare the bed for sowing, 
which, when finished, should stand about ioin. 
above the level. Make the drills 1 in. deep and a 
foot apart. Sow thinly, but evenly, not in clumps 
at a certain distance apart, which is sometimes the 
custom, as, by so doing, the plant intended to 
stand is often pushed on one side, and is apt to grow 
crooked. Should the weather be warm and dry, 
give the bed a good soaking. A 2 soon as ever the 
seed is up, give the bed a good dusting over with 
vegetable ash, which will effectually prevent the 
ravages of slugs. As the seed intended to produce 
exhibition roots will have to be sown (in cold dis¬ 
tricts) at least a fortnight earlier than the main crop 
some protection to guard against the spring frosts 
will be necessary. For this purpose drive a few 
stakes into the ground each side of the rows, against 
which place deal planks in a slanting position, so as 
to leave about 2 in. open at the top. These planks 
can be removed in the day-time, and replaced at 
night. Nothing but pure water must be used, no 
liquid manure of any sort. Do not prepare a large 
bed for exhibition purposes: one large enough to 
contain from twelve to eighteen plants is all that will 
be required, as, if the seed be good, nearly every root 
will be fit for the exhibition table, under the treatment 
I describe, and with very few of the course fibrous 
roots at the side and tail. A model root for exhibi¬ 
tion should be as nearly as possible the shape of a 
fairly-grown Carrot, of moderate length and size, of 
the finest colour and texture, and free from the long 
coarse tail so often seen but not appreciated, being 
perfectly worthless for culinary purposes. Lift and 
prepare the roots for exhibition the same day as they 
are wanted, if possible, as the skin becomes some¬ 
what rusty in colour if exposed for any length of 
time to the air and light. 
The Turnip 
Of all our garden vegetables (Potatos excepted) 
perhaps the Turnip may be classed among the most 
useful, and it therefore deserves the best cultivation 
that can be given to it. It will grow in shade and in 
sunshine, in poor ground and in rich, and will yield 
a plentiful supply at least eight months in the year, 
if properly managed. Among the early sorts I 
think the Snowball is about the best, and for summer 
and autumn crop nothing can surpass Veitch’s Red 
Globe, which, under many years of trial, I take to be 
the very best white-fleshed Turnip in cultivation. It 
has often been a matter of surprise to me why yellow- 
fleshed Turnips are not more cultivated. If people 
only knew their vastly superior quality and flavour 
over the white-fleshed varieties a place would be 
found for them in every garden. I remember a few 
years ago entering a dish of the Golden Ball Turnip 
at our Exeter Show, which for shape and quality 
were good enough to take a first at any show in 
England. What was my surprise to find that the 
judges had only awarded them " highly commended.” 
On talking over the matter with my friend, Mr. 
Veitch, he told me that yellow-fleshed Turnips were 
not sufficiently known to be appreciated. I returned 
home thoroughly disappointed, but not beaten, for 
I resolved to offer a special prize for yellow-fleshed 
Turnips, in order that the public might judge of 
their quality for themselves. I trust the class will be 
better filled this year. 
Soil and Situation. 
To grow Turnips for the early autumn exhibitions a 
somewhat damp and half shady position should be 
chosen, in order that the growth may not be checked 
during the excessive summer beat. The soil should 
be moderately light and a good quantity of vegetable 
ash may be incorporated with it, but no fresh yard 
manure. No doubt some of you have remarked 
that the tap root of a Turnip when pulled from stiff 
soil is hard and coarse, but seldom or never so when 
taken from deeply trenched light soil. 
Time to Sow. 
If roots are required for exhibition at the middle or 
end of August two sowings should be made, one 
about 25th May, the second about June 7th. It 
must be remembered that yellow varieties are 
slower in growth than the white, and therefore 
require a little longer time. The drills should be 
made 14 in. apart. Sow the seed thinly, but evenly. 
If the weather is hot and the soil dry, watch your 
bed, and as soon as ever you see the soil lifting, 
soak your bed with water, in which soft soap has 
been dissolved at the rate of a tablespocnful to the 
gallon. 
(To be continued.) 
