516 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
April 16, 1892. 
J=liO$ICUliTUf*E. 
The Fertilization of the Pansy. 
I am sure "Veritas ” and I have a higher object in 
view than to cavil at unimportant differences of 
opinion, either with regard to scarlet Pansies, or the 
intentional or accidental crossing by the agency of 
bees. I think we are both anxious to profit by the 
experience of others, and willing to communicate 
what has come under our own observation, or has 
been proved by our experiments. But with regard 
to the action of bees I must not be supposed to claim 
—as I fear "Veritas 1 ' thinks Ido—any intentional 
or purposive selection, nor anything beyond an 
instinct which is guided by colour and perfume. 
Sir John Lubbock, in his fascinating work on 
■■ British Wild Flowers in Relation to Insects,” 
says :— "It is difficult to account for the relations 
which exist between flowers and insects by the 
hypothesis of a mere blind instinct on the part of 
the latter. That bees are attracted by and can 
distinguish colours was a just inference. 
I thought it, therefore, worth while to make some 
experiments.I placed slips of glass, with 
honey, on paper of various colours, accustoming 
different bees to visit special colours, and when they 
had made a few visits to honey on paper of a 
particular colour, I found that if the papers were 
transposed, the bees followed the colour. My own 
observations of the behaviour of bees have largely 
confirmed this; and it was this I had in view when I 
deprecated the "chance" theory of crossing by 
bees. I am altogether opposed to the doctrine of 
chance in the operations of nature. As to the 
manner in which fertilization—or pollination rather— 
is affected by bees, "Veritas" has fallen into a 
slight error. The pollen which is to effect the cross 
is borne on the proboscis—not the legs—of the bee. 
Professor Sachs, in his " Text Book of Botany 7 , 
gives a full account of the process, which is also 
described by many other writers. 
Passing from this, however, I am concerned to 
know that my theory has not received such support 
as I would like from the experiments of "Veritas." 
Still his observation that the seedlings from Mrs. 
E. P. Frame generally resembled thnt variety is 
part confirmation. The colour being similar does 
not disprove my theory, for the colour of the 
fertilizing parent may have been like that of Mrs. 
E. P. Frame. I have not my last communication 
before me, but I think I only claimed that the male 
parent influences the colour of the offspring. In my 
latest experiments I used Duchess df Portland and 
Lord Hamilton as seed-bearing parents, crossing 
these with pollen from several well-marked varieties. 
The seed was carefully kept apart, sown in separate 
boxes, and the seedlings planted out by themselves. 
I had about 150 seedlings of the former, and about 
100 of the latter variety. Not only was the habit of 
each marvellously reproduced in almost every one 
of its seedlings, but the peculiarities of the flowers of 
these varieties were transmitted with equal fidelity. 
But only one of the seedlings — one from Lord 
Hamilton — preserved the colour of the female 
parent. These experiments, the last of a long series, 
naturally confirmed my faith in the theory stated, 
and which I had previously formed. 
I can only now touch upon the question of the 
best time for fertilizing. -In the Pansy the pollen 
practically matures coincidently with the stigma, and 
both reach this step previous to the full expansion of 
the flower. Darwin, as quoted by Sir John Lubbock, 
says :—“ A certain state of the atmosphere seems to 
be necessary to the secretion of nectar.” In the 
Pansy it appears to be bright sunshine following 
rain. In such a time the bees are most numerous 
and most active, attracted, as Darwin suggests, " by 
the odour emitted by the flowers." It will be found 
that after such weather seed is set in greatest abund¬ 
ance.— J. D. Stuart. 
Auriculas. 
Late as the season undoubtedly is, some of our 
leading Auricula growers say their plants will be past 
their best by the 19th inst., the date of the annual 
exhibition of the National Auricula Society, at the 
Drill Hall, Westminster. They say they never force 
their plants, but I presume they keep them out of 
reach of frost, which means ample covering up or 
some artificial heat. I cannot quite understand this 
statement, because I shall scarcely have an expanded 
pip by the 19th, and some other growers who rely 
entirely on a cold treatment say the same. We 
shall therefore look with some interest for the show 
on the above date. The plants coming into flower 
should have only the morning sun, and in this way 
the bloom can be prolonged for two or three weeks. 
A liberal supply of water is requisite, and plenty of 
ventilation. Cleanliness is all important; any at¬ 
tempts at fertilization should be made only between 
two varieties of the same class, such as two green 
edges, two grey edges, two white edges, or two seifs. 
Azaleas. 
Azaleas are now in their glory, at least such plants 
as were pushed on a little to secure early bloom. 
Those coming on to flower will require careful water¬ 
ing, never allowing them to become dry enough to 
affect the bloom buds. Plants thoroughly pot-bound 
will be helped by a little manure water once or twice 
a week, or perhaps, better still, Standen’s manure or 
some other fertilizer of a similar character and 
quality. Any plants going out of flower can be 
placed in a cool part of the greenhouse, and air freely 
given on all favourable occasions. As the sun is 
now gaining considerable power, the plants should 
be shaded from its rays. One cannot say too much 
in praise of the varieties of A. mollis for forcing 
purposes. AVe have this season seen these in fine 
character at the spring shows, small plants densely 
laden with bloom. They bear forcing remarkably 
well, and it is right to give them some protection, for 
the characteristic of flowering early renders them 
liable to injury by spring frosts. 
Calceolarias. 
I think it may be said that if any plant dislikes con¬ 
finement at the root it is the Calceolaria, and if 
allowed to become pot-bound and suffered to want 
water, the foliage at once loses its desirable healthy 
appearance, and a specimen, however densely 
bloomed, if bereft of healthy foliage, is at best a 
sorry spectacle. No position is better suited to the 
plants than a low cold frame with the plants near 
the glass and abundant ventilation. A syringing 
overhead with soft water on mild mornings will be 
found of great advantage, and as the plants are very 
subject to green-fly, a fumigation once a fortnight 
with tobacco smoke should be resorted to. If the 
plants are required for house decoration, the 
branches should be tied out so that the shape may 
be improved as much as possible. 
Carnations and Picotees 
I am a strong advocate for early potting in the case 
of plants required to produce blooms for exhibition 
purposes, and I am in cordial agreement with an 
old florist who says it is better to have pots full of 
roots than pots filled with soil only. When potted, 
the pots should be provided with shelter, at least by 
night, for a time, and by the end of the month they 
will bear full exposure. The pots should be stood 
as level as possible, so that water can be equally 
distributed throughout the soil when applied. Any 
varieties of tall growth, or any plants that have 
gone ahead of the others, should be secured by means 
of stakes. Seeds of Carnations should be sown 
without delay, either in pans or shallow boxes of fine 
soil, or in a well prepared bed in a cold frame, the 
seeds put very thinly in drills. As soon as the 
seedlings show through the ground they should 
have abundant ventilation to cause them to become 
stocky. 
Chrysanthemums. 
Under this heading I think I cannot do better than 
quote from an excellent article in Mr. H. J. Jones’ 
Chrysanthemum Catalogue. He states:—"In this 
month (April), the cultivator must decide what style 
of growth is to be adopted. If for bush plants, the 
tips of the shoots may be pinched out, but if for the 
purpose nine-tenths of Chrysanthemum lovers 
desire, namely, well-developed blooms, the plants 
must be allowed to proceed in the single stems. A 
free, uninterrupted growth is generally the most 
conducive to that end ; from an exhibitor's point of 
view, however, naturally early and naturally late 
varieties must be so managed that they produce 
their blooms in perfection at the same time.” So 
much for general directions as to training. Further¬ 
more, it is stated that " In favourable seasons the 
plants can be placed out of doors the first week in 
April, provided that they are placed in a position 
thoroughly protected from the north and east, and 
at the same time receive all possible light and air. 
Provision must also be made, by light frameworks of 
wood attached to stakes driven into the ground, to 
permit of substantial covering being placed over the 
plants in the event of frost. Let the plants stand on 
a thick stratum of coarse ashes in order to keep the 
worms from entering the pots. Worms will pass 
through a thin layer of ashes, especially if sifted 
very fine. Great care must be taken in watering, 
for the plants, being in such small pots, a sudden 
accession of sun heat rapidly dries the soil, and the 
plants should never suffer for want of water. On 
the other hand too much water will make itself 
evident by yellow leaves and sickly growth." 
Experience is the best guide on this point, and the 
grower can soon detect the difference between over¬ 
much and not enough water at the roots. Apply 
rain water when it can be obtained, and if hard water 
alone can be obtained it should be allowed to stand 
in the open for the sun to warm it a few hours before 
it is applied. 
Cinerarias 
Are now in flower, and are helped by a little weak 
manure watering being given twice a week. On no 
account should the plants be suffered to want for 
water. If it is desirable to take seed from two or 
three of the best varieties, they should be isolated 
to prevent indiscriminate crossing by insects. 
Dahlias. 
Rooting and the potting off of rooted cuttings is now 
the principal work of the grower. The plants should 
be kept close until they are established, and then 
gradually hardened off to keep them as stocky as 
possible. Those who exhibit blooms at shows held 
in August should grow on their plants freely, so as 
to have them of good size for planting out the first 
week in June. 
Hollyhocks. 
Young plants should be placed in the open at once, 
putting them in good rich soil, and helping them in 
every way to get a good start. Old stools now 
throwing up shoots from the ground should be top 
dressed with good soil, and be well looked after in 
the matter of water while the weather is dry. Two 
or three good shoots should be left to each stool, if 
the plants are required for decorative purposes, the 
remainder can be used for cuttings. 
Pansies. 
So many useful cultural hints respecting the manage¬ 
ment of these have been supplied of late that it only 
suffices to say plants in beds will now be helped by 
a top dressing of good soil, and when the expected 
showers come, great assistance will be rendered to 
the plants. 
Pelargoniums 
Of the show and fancy sections are now displaying 
their flower buds, those to flower in May 
especially. Shade will not be required until the 
plants come into bloom, but if it is desirable to keep 
any back as long as possible, it is best to place them 
in a cool house on a north aspect. A watchful eye 
should be kept to the matter of watering, as the pots 
being now full of roots, the plants soon suffer for 
want of moisture. It is wise to give a good fumiga¬ 
tion before the plants come into bloom. 
Pinks. 
The old growers were always very particular in 
keeping the surface of their Fink beds well stirred, so 
as to aerate the soil, and also because they held that 
by allowing the soil to harden about the stems and 
become encrusted with a greenish moss, there was 
danger of canker. The usual method of top dress¬ 
ing is to remove one inch of soil from around the 
plants, and put into its place a compost made up of 
good decomposed manure and fine soil. If placed 
all over the surface of the bed so much the better, 
as the weather is very drying. Sun and wind alike 
acting upon the soil care must be taken to water the 
bed if necessary.— R.D. 
-- 
Plants Certificated in Ghent. — At the last 
meeting of the Belgian Chamber of Horticulture 
at Ghent, Certificates of Merit were awarded to Mr. 
Louis De Smet, for Azalea nudiflora lilacina, A. 
nudiflora M. Jacque, Adiantum grandiceps, and 
Cattleya Trianae virginalis ; to Mr. A. Van Imschoot 
for Cypripedium selligerum majus ; to Mr. Aug. \ an 
Geert for Cy pripedium Lathamianum ; to Messrs. E. 
Vervaet & Co. for Cypripedium Huybrechtianum ; 
to Mr. Jules Hye for Odontoglossum excellens 
Hyeanum, Od. Alexandrae insignis, Od. Chamber- 
lainianum, Od. Pescatorei var., Od triumphans var. 
nigrum, and Od. Andersoni var. 
